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Our dictionary of fabric terms will teach you the ins-and-outs of the fabric world...
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A | B | C | D | E | F | G | H | I | J | K | L | M | N | O | P | Q | R | S | T | U | V | W | Y | Z |
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A
Abaca
More commonly known as Manila Hemp.
Absorbency
The ability of a fabric to take in moisture. Absorbency is an important property affecting many other
characteristics such as skin comfort, static build-up, shrinkage, stain removal, water repellence, and
wrinkle recovery.
Acetate
The ester cellulose ethanoate (cellulose acetate), referred to commercially simply as acetate, is used in
fabrics, fibers, and films.
One of the first manufactured fibers. It is soft and has a crisp feel. It has
the lustrous appearance of silk and excellent appearance when draped. It is not a strong fiber, as its
resistance to abrasion is poor. Resists shrinkage, moths, and mildew and does not absorb moisture readily.
Its yarns are pliable and supple and will always spring back to their original shape. It is fast drying and
when heated becomes more pliable. Acetone and alcohol dissolve acetate fibers. Special dyes are required
if it is to be colored.
Uses: Clothing, uniforms, lingerie, carpets, bathing suits, draperies,
automobile upholstery, fillings for pillows, interlinings.
Acrylic
Acrylic resins, often called acrylics, are made by the polymerization of acrylates or other monomers
containing the acrylic group. Acrylic compounds are thermoplastic (they soften or fuse when heated and
reharden upon cooling), are impervious to water, and have low densities. These qualities make them
suitable for the manufacture of a variety of objects and substances, including molded structural materials,
adhesives, and textile fibers.
Such fibers are used to weave durable, easily laundered fabrics that
resist shrinkage. It is a durable fiber with a soft, woolly feel. It has an uneven surface, making it different
from most manufactured fibers. It comes in a variety of colors, and can be dyed easily. It is resistant to sun
and chemicals.
Uses: Often used as a replacement for wool.
Probably invented by some boffin on his/her day off.
Agneline
A black woolen fabric with a very long nape. It is coarse and heavy. When stretched the fibers tighten and
become water resistant.
Albert cloth
Characteristics: It has a double layer of wool and is reversible. Faces and backs may vary in color
and pattern. Provides additional warmth and body.
Uses: Outer wraps.
Alginate
Alginate was first produced from seaweed in 1940. It is a product of a neutralizing reaction between alginic
acid and caustic soda. It is non-flammable. When combined with other fibers, it takes on a sheer
appearance.
Uses: Garnishing, camouflage and netting.
Alpaca
True alpaca is hair from the Alpaca animal, a member of the Llama family of the South American Andes
Mountains. Also imitated in wool, wool and alpaca, rayon, mohair and rayon or cotton and a cotton warp
and alpaca filling also synthetics - e.g. orlon.
Weave: Various weaves, knits, and weights.
Characteristics: Fine, silk-like, soft, light weight and warm. It is very rich and silky with
considerable luster and resembles mohair. If guard hairs are used, it is inclined to be stiff. It is strong and
durable. True alpaca is expensive so often combined with other fibers or imitated by other fibers - e.g.
orlon. Alpaca is found in white, black, fawn or gray. The fibers are less coarse than those of the llama but
are higher in tensile strength.
Uses: Men's and Women's suits, coats and sportswear, linings and
sweaters. Some fine alpaca used for women's dresses. Also in pile or napped fabric for coating.
Amazon
Weave: Satin
Characteristics: It is very soft.
Angora goat
Fiber: The clipped fiber of the living animal is called mohair.
Weave: Various weaves and
knitted.
Characteristics: Scoured mohair appears smooth and white. It varies in fineness and is
highly resilient, very strong and has high luster. Its value is determined by its luster and not its softness.
Uses: Used extensively in industries such as carpet, upholstery, curtain and automobile
cloth.
Angora rabbit
Fiber: Hair from the angora rabbit. It is indigenous to Asia Minor and Turkey. Often blended and mixed with
wool to lower the price of the finished article or to obtain fancy or novelty effects.
Weave: Various weaves and knitted.
Characteristics: Long, very fine, light
weight, extremely warm and fluffy. Has a tendency to shed and mat with time. Must be designated as
angora rabbit's hair. This fur fiber is one of the finest.
Uses: Used mostly in knit wear -
gloves, scarves, sweaters, etc. for children and women. Also blended with wool in dress goods and suits
Aramid
This strong fibre does not have a melting point and is flame proof. It retains its shape, even at high
temperatures and is resistant to stretch.
Argyle
A "version" of the tartan of the Scottish clan Argyle.
Also known as Bias_Plaid.
Comprising a Diamond-shaped knit design that appears to be inlaid into the fabric. Usually three colors, but
two color combinations are also used.
Originally hand knitted, but is now machine-made throughout the world using the intarsia method.
Tartan socks featuring the argyle pattern are worn with the kilt, particularly by military regiments.
From the district of Argyll in the West Highlands of Scotland.
Armure
Fiber: Cotton, silk, wool, rayon, synthetics, and blends.
Weave: Plain, twill, or rib, background often
has a small design either jacquard or dobby made with warp floats on surface giving a raised effect.
Characteristics: Design is often in two colors and raised. The name was derived from original
fabric which was woven with a small interlaced design of chain armor and used for military equipment
during the Crusades.
Uses: Elegant evening gowns, draperies, or upholstery.
Art linen
Fiber: Linen.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: It is woven with even threads that are
especially good for embroidery. It is very easy to "draw" the yarns for drawn thread work. Comes
bleached, or colored. Has a soft finish.
Uses: All kinds of needlework, lunch cloths, serviettes, etc.
Asbestos
A fibrous silicate mineral once used for making incombustable or fireproof articles. Now considered
extremely dangerous.
Astrakhan
Fiber: Wool. Sometimes made with a mohair warp to add luster and curl to the surface. Poor grades often
have cotton warp or back. Fur: Luxuriant fur, curly and wavy. Most popular shade is brown. It is a karakul
lambskin form the Astrakhan section of Russia.
Weave: Good grades woven with a pile weave
and cut. Cheap grades are knitted.
Characteristics: Resembles astrakhan fur. Deep pile with curled
loops. Durable and warm.
Uses: Coats, cloaks, trimmings and accessories.
B
Baize
Also known as Bayeta.
A thick, bright green or red cloth that looks like felt.
Used to cover billiard tables, as pads under objects to prevent scratching. Also used to make traditional
clothing of some South American peoples.
Possibly from the town of Baza in Spain, or the french word baies a red/brown color.
Banana silk
In many Asian countries, the stalk of the banana plant is processed to make fabric. Different layers of the
banana stem yield fibers for different uses. The outer layer produces fibers used for tablecloths. The next
layer yields fibers used for obi and ties. The third layer is used for kimono and saris.
Pieces of the fabric used for the saris are then collected and spun into Banana Silk.
Barathea
Fiber: Worsted, silk, rayon or silk or rayon warp combined with cotton or wool.
Weave: An
indistinct twill, plain or novelty. Usually a twilled hopsack weave.
Characteristics: Fine textured,
slightly pebbled surface. Appears to be cut off-grain. Very hard wearing. English in origin and originally
made as a mourning cloth. It is still often dyed black.
Uses: Women's suits and coats, men's
evening wear, dress goods in light fibers. Also used in silk for cravat cloth and after five wear.
Batik
A method, originating in Java, of resist dyeing which employs wax as the resist. The pattern is covered
with wax and the fabric is then dyed, producing a white design on a dyed ground. The waxed patterns will
not take the dye, and the wax is removed after dyeing. The process is repeated to obtain multicolored
designs. The effect is sometimes imitated in machine prints.
Batiste
Fiber: Cotton, also rayon and wool.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Named after Jean
Batiste, a French linen weaver. Light weight, soft, semi-sheer fabric which resembles nainsook, but finer. It
belongs to the lawn family; almost transparent. It is made of tightly twisted, combed yarns and mercerized
finish. Sometimes it is printed or embroidered. In a heavier weight, it is used for foundation garments and
linings in a plain, figured, striped, or flowered design. Considered similar to nainsook but finer and lighter in
weight. Now usually made of 100% polyester distinguished by slubs in filling direction.
Bayadere
Fiber: Silk.
Weave: Crosswise rib (plain or twill weave).
Characteristics: Has brightly
colored stripes in the filling direction. Often black warp. The color effects are usually startling or bizarre.
Mostly produced in India. Name derived from the Bajadere dancing girl of India, dedicated from birth to a
dancing life. The Bayadere costume includes the striped garment, a flimsy scarf or shawl, jeweled
trousers, spangles, sequins, anklets.
Uses: Blouses, dresses, after 5 wear.
Beaver
Characteristics: Mostly found in Europe and America. Soft, silky, shiny, lending itself to textile use.
Uses: Fur coats, trimming fur and fabric garments.
Beaver cloth
Fiber: Wool. Also cotton and napped on both sides - double faced.
Weave: Twill and very heavily
napped, and furled.
Characteristics: Originally English. Made to simulate beaver fur. Thick, gives
excellent wear and very warm - resembles kersey. Length of nap varies with the cloth and its uses. Has a
luxurious look. Has the longest nap of all the napped fabrics and usually somewhat silky. Often light colored
fibers added to nap to increase shine.
Uses: Mostly used for warm coats. Cotton beaver is used
for caps, shoe linings, work cloths, Maritime clothes and sports clothes where work is required.
Bedford cord
Fiber: Wool or worsted but worsted is more popular. Also made in cotton, silk and rayon.
Weave:
Lengthwise rib. Sometimes the ribs are emphasized by stuffing.
Characteristics: Both Bedford,
England and New Bedford, Mass. claim the name. Very pronounced rib. Very firm construction. Takes much
hard wear. Has various qualities and weights.
Uses: Suiting, coatings, riding breeches, uniforms
and upholstery.
Bengaline
Fiber: Silk, wool, rayon, synthetics, cotton.
Weave: Crosswise rib, warp faced.
Characteristics: A corded fabric resembling poplin but with heavier cords; it may be silk or rayon
with worsted cords First made of silk in Bengal, India. Ribs are round and raised. Often has wool or cotton
drilling in the ribs which doesn't show. Difficult to make bound buttonholes in it. Has a tendency to slip at the
seams if too tightly fitted. Grosgrain and Petersham is bengaline cut to ribbon widths. The cloth is usually
40" wide.
Uses: Coats, suits, millinery, trims, bouffant dresses with a tailored look, mourning cloth,
draperies. Cotele - A French term for bengaline made from a silk or rayon warp and worsted filling which is
given a hard twist.
Birdseye
Fiber: In cotton and Linen or blend of rayon staple and cotton. Worsted.
Weave: Usually dobby
Characteristics: Smooth, clear finish. Has small diamond-shaped figures with a dot in the center of
each. Pattern suggests the eye of a bird. Very soft, light weight, and absorbent. woven with a loosely
twisted filling to increase absorbency. Launders very well. No starch is applied because the absorption
properties must be of the best. Material must be free from any foreign matter. It is also called "diaper cloth"
and is used for that purpose as well as very good toweling. Also "novelty" Birdseye effects used as
summer dress fabrics.
Uses: Fine quality suiting for men and women.
Blanket cloth
Fiber: Wool, worsted, cotton, blends, synthetics.
Weave: Plain or twill.
Characteristics:
Soft, raised finish, "nap" obtained by passing the fabric over a series of rollers covered with fine wire or
teasels. Heavily napped and fulled on both sides. Nap lose and may pill in laundering. Named in honor of
Thomas Blanket (Blanquette), a Flemish weaver who lived in Bristol, England in the XIV century, and was
the first to use this material for sleeping to keep warm.
Uses: Bed covering, overcoats, robes.
Blend
The combination of two or more types of staple fibers and/or colors in one yarn. Blends are sometimes so
intimate that it is difficult to distinguish the component fibers in either the yarn or the fabric. A highly
sophisticated textile art, blending today is creating new fabric types, performance characteristics, and
dyeing and finishing effects.
Bolivia
Fiber: Wool. Sometimes contains alpaca or mohair.
Weave: Twill- usually 3 up and 3 down. A pile
weave (cut) with a diagonal pattern.
Characteristics: Pile face which varies in depth. Soft and
has a velvety feel. Usually piece dyed. Usually has lines or ridges in the warp or in a diagonal direction on
one side. Comes in light, medium and heavy weights.
Uses: Cloaking and coatings and some suits.
Bombazine
Fiber: Usually has silk or rayon warp and worsted filling. Imitations are made in cotton.
Weave:
Plain or twill.
Characteristics: Very fine English fabric. Name comes from Latin "bombycinum"
which means a silk in texture. It is one of the oldest materials known and was originally all-silk.
Uses: Infants wear. When dyed black it is used in the mourning cloth trade.
Boucle
Bouclé:
Fiber: Wool, also in rayon, silk, cotton, linen, blends, hair fibers.
Weave: Any weave,
knit.
Characteristics: Yarn with loops, which produces a woven or knitted fabric with rough
appearance. A drawn out or ringed, looped yarn is used to give it a kinky appearance at intervals. Made in a
variety of weights. Boucle yarns are usually in both the filling and the warp. Fabrics are usually springy to
handle on account of the highly twisted yarns used to achieve the boucle effect. Often ravels easily.
Uses: Coats, suits, dresses, sportswear.
From the French for "buckled" or "ringed".
Broadcloth
Fiber: Cotton and silk, and rayon. Very different than wool broadcloth.
Weave: Plain weave and in
most cotton broadcloths made with a very fine crosswise rib weave.
Characteristics: Originally
indicated a cloth woven on a wide loom. Very closely woven and in cotton, made from either carded or
combed yarns. The filling is heavier and has less twist. It is finer than poplin when made with a crosswise
rib and it is lustrous and soft with a good texture. Thread count ranges from high quality 144 x 6 count
down to 80 x 60. Has a smooth finish. May be bleached, dyed, or printed; also is often mercerized. Wears
very well. If not of a high quality or treated it wrinkles very badly. Finest quality made from Egyptian or
combed pima cotton - also sea island.
Uses: Shirts, dresses, particularly the tailored type in plain
colors, blouses, summer wear of all kinds.
Brocade
Fiber: Silk, rayon, cotton, and all others.
Weave: Jacquard and dobby.
Characteristics:
Rich, heavy, elaborate design effect. Sometimes with colored or metallic threads making the design usually
against a satin weave background. This makes the figures stand out. the figures in brocade are rather
loose, while in damask the figure threads are actually bound into the material. The pattern may be satin on a
twill ground or twill on a satin ground. Often reversible. The motifs may be of flowers, foliage, scrollwork,
pastoral scenes, or other designs. The price range is wide. Generally reputed to have been developed from
the Latin name "brocade" which means to figure.
Uses: All types of evening wear, church
vestments, interior furnishings, and state robes.
Brocatelle
Fiber: Silk, rayon, cotton, and synthetics.
Weave: Jacquard - double or backed cloth.
Characteristics: Originally supposed to be an imitation of Italian tooled leather - satin or twill pattern
on plain or satin ground. It is recognized by a smooth raised figure of warp-effect, usually in a satin weave
construction, on a filling effect background. True brocatelle is a double weave made of silk and linen warp
and a silk and linen filling. Present-day materials may have changed from the 13th and 14th Century fabrics,
but they still have the embossed figure in the tight, compact woven warp-effect. While brocatelle is
sometimes classed as a flat fabric, it shows patterns which stand out in "high relief" in a sort of blistered
effect.
Uses: Draperies, furniture, coverings and general decorating purposes as well as all kinds
of after 5 wear.
Buckram
Fiber: Cotton, some in linen, synthetics.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Cheap, low-
textured, loose weave, very heavily sized and stiff. Also, 2 fabrics are glued together; one is open weave
and the other much finer. Some is also made in linen in a single fabric. Also called crinoline book muslin or
book binding. Softens with heat. Can be shaped while warm.
Uses: Used for interlinings and all
kinds of stiffening in clothes, book binding, and for millinery (because it can be moistened and shaped).
Used to give stiffness to leather garments not as stiff and often colored is called "tarlatan".
From Bukhara a city in west Asia from whence the cloth was exported.
Burlap
Burlap (or Jute) is used in textiles for interiors, especially for wall hangings and a group of bright,
homespun-effect draperies and wall coverings. Natural jute has a yellow to brown or gray color, with a
silky luster. It consists of bundles of fiber held together by gummy substances that are pertinacious in
character. It is difficult to bleach completely, so many fabrics are bright, dark, or natural brown in color. Jute
reacts to chemicals in the same way as do cotton and flax. It has a good resistance to micro-organisms
and insects. Moisture increases the speed of deterioration but dry jute will last for a very long time. Jute
works well for bagging, because it does not extend and is somewhat rough and coarse. This tends to keep
stacks of bags in position and resist slippage. It is widely used in the manufacture of linoleum and carpets
for backing or base fabric.
Burn-out
A process whereby a chemical (often Sulfuric acid, mixed into a print paste) is printed on the fabric, instead
of color. The chemical eats away the fiber and creates a hole in the fabric in the printed design. Can be
used to simulate eyelet effects the fabric is then over-printed with a simulated embroidery stitch. Burn-out
effects can also be created on velvets made of blended fibers, in which the ground fabric is of one fiber
like polyester, and the pile may be of a cellulose fiber like rayon or acetate. In this case, when the chemical
is printed, it destroys the pile in those areas where the chemical comes in contact with the fabric, but
leaves the ground fabric untouched.
Butcher linen
It was originally made with linen but is now created with cotton or manufactured fibers. It launders well,
sheds dirt, and is exceptionally durable.
Bias plaid
See Argyle.
C
Calenderin
A process for finishing fabrics in which effects such as high luster, glazing, embossing, and moiré are
produced.
Calico
A printed cotton cloth superior to percale. Pattern is printed on one side by discharge or resist printing. It is
not always fast in color. Sized for crispness but washes out and requires starch each time. Designs are
often geometric in shape, but originally elaborate designs of birds, trees, and flowers. Inexpensive. Similar
to percale. Very little on the market to-day, but the designs are still in use on other fabrics and sold as
"calico print".
Uses: Housedresses, aprons, patchwork quilts. Calicoes were first imported into
Europe from India during the Renaissance and have since been manufactured in both Europe and the United
States. Calico was especially popular in America during the 19th century.
N.B. European definition is very different …
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Plain - usually a low count.
Characteristics: Originated in Calicut,
India, and is one of the oldest cottons. Rather coarse and light in weight, generally bleached or white.
Named after Culicut a city on the coast of Malabar, India.
Cambric
Fiber: Cotton, also linen.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: Soft, closely woven, light. Either
bleached or piece dyed. Highly mercerized, lint free. Calendered on the right side with a slight gloss. Lower
qualities have a smooth bright finish. Similar to batiste but is stiffer and fewer slubs. Launders very well.
Has good body, sews and finishes well. Originally made in Cambria, France of linen and used for Church
embroidery and table linens.
Uses: Handkerchiefs, underwear, slips, nightgowns, children's
dresses, aprons, shirts and blouses.
Cambrai, a city in north France.
Camel hair
Fiber: Hair from the camel. Sometimes blended with wool or imitated in wool.
Weave: Twill or plain.
Characteristics: Bactrian Species of the Chinese and Mongolian deserts. Under hair is best. It is
light weight, lustrous and soft. It ranges from a light tan to a brownish-black color. Usually left its natural
tones but can be dyed-usually navy and some red. It has quite a long nap and is warm. Better grades are
expensive. Sometimes blended with wool to reduce the cost and increase the wear. All wool camel hair is
not as lustrous and is spongy. Can have either a rich nap or a flat finish. Wears fairly well, particularly if
blended.
Uses: Coats, women's suits, sports coats, sweaters, some blankets and put in some
very expensive oriental rugs. It is also used in (fine) over coating, top coating, hosiery and transmission
belts which will withstand dampness and moisture.
Camocas
Was popular in the 14th and 15th centuries. It was a very beautiful fabric which was often stripped with
gold or silver. It had a satin base and was diapered like fine linen.
Candlewick fabric
Fiber: Cotton - also wool.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: An unbleached muslin bed
sheeting (also called Kraft muslin) used as a base fabric on which a chenille effect is formed by application
of candlewick (heavy plied yarn) loops, which are then cut to give the fuzzy effect and cut yarn
appearance of true chenille yarn. May be uncut also. (True chenille is a cotton, wool, silk, or rayon yarn
which has a pile protruding all around at slight angles and stimulates a caterpillar. Chenille is the French
word for caterpillar).
Uses: Bedspreads, drapes, housecoats, beach wear.
Canton flannel
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Four harness warp-faced twill weave. Characteristics The filling yarn is a
very loosely twisted and soft and later brushed to produced a soft nap on the back, the warp is medium in
size. The face is a twill. Heavy, warm, strong and absorbent. Named for Canton, China where it was first
made. Comes bleached, unbleached, dyed, and some is printed.
Uses: Interlinings, sleeping
garments, linings, coverings, work gloves.
Canvas
Fiber: Linen, cotton.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: Mostly rugged, heavy material made
from plied yarns. Has body and strength. It is usually manufactured in the gray state but some is dyed for
different uses. Almost the same as duck in heavier weights. Has an even weave. Ada or Java canvas
used for yarn, needlework, almost like mesh.
Uses: Tents, sails, mail bags, sacks, covers, etc.
Finer types used for embroidery and paintings. Hair canvas is an interfacing material in various weights.
Card
An implement used in disentangling and combing out fibers of wool, flax etc., preparatory to spinning.
Latin carduus thistle.
Carding
The process of preparing fibers, such as wool, cotton, etc., for spinning.
Latin carduus thistle.
Casha
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: Originally made of Vicuna. Today the Vicuna is considered
an endangered species so Kasha is made from either a blend of cashmere and wool or a very fine wool.
Uses: Clothing.
Cashmere
Fiber: From the Kashmir goat, a hair fiber found in Kashmir India, Tibet, Iran, Iraq, China, Persia, Turkestan
and Outer Mongolia. Often mixed with wool or synthetics to cut costs and improve the wear.
Weave: All weaves but mostly plain or twill. All knits.
Characteristics: Fiber is cylindrical,
soft and silken. More like wool than any other hair fiber. Has a very soft silky finish; very light in weight.
Doesn't stand up to hard wear on account of extremely soft downy finish. Natural fiber is white, black,
brown or gray but can be died a variety of shades. Comes in different weights.
Uses: The textile
industry is only interested in the soft fibers. Knitted into sweaters for men and women, also women's
dresses. Often combed and sold in tops and noils.
Cavalry twill
Fiber: Woolen or worsted.
Weave: 63 twill weave - right hand twill.
Characteristics:
Pronounced narrow and wide wale, in groups of 2. Strong rugged cloth. Quite elastic. Similar to U.S.
elastique but elastique is smoother in rib, feel and effect, - (made of worsted yarn and a firmer weave).
Also resembles tricotine but tricotine is much finer with a double diagonal.
Uses: Riding habits, ski
wear, sportswear, and uniform fabrics.
Cellulose
The basic substance for the three cellulosic fibers (acetate, rayon, and triacetate) is cellulose, which
comes from purified wood pulp.
Cendal
Fiber: silk, made in various qualities
Weave: usually plain with a fine cross rib.
Characteristics: Material resembling taffeta. Widely used in the Middle Ages, but rarely found
except for as lining by the 17th century.
Challis
Fiber: Wool-also made in cotton, hair fiber, rayon, and a silk warp and worsted filling.
Weave:
Plain
Characteristics: Anglo-Indian word "Shallee" meaning soft. Soft, very lightweight. May be
dyed or printed with a delicate floral pattern, paisleys, or geometric patterns and faint designs. Often
washable. Originated in Norwich England in 1832.
Uses: Women's and children's dresses and
blouses, comforters, kimonos, neckties, and sportswear. In slacks or shorts it would have to be lined.
Chalys
Fiber: Wool-also made in cotton, hair fiber, rayon, and a silk warp and worsted filling.
Weave:
Plain
Characteristics: Anglo-Indian word "Shallee" meaning soft. Soft, very lightweight. May be
dyed or printed with a delicate floral pattern, paisleys, or geometric patterns and faint designs. Often
washable. Originated in Norwich England in 1832.
Uses: Women's and children's dresses and
blouses, comforters, kimonos, neckties, and sportswear. In slacks or shorts it would have to be lined.
Chambray
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Plain weave or dobby designs on a plain-weave ground. A fine variety of
gingham, commonly plain, but with the warp and weft of different colors.
Characteristics: Made
with a dyed warp and a white or unbleached filling. Both carded and combed yarns used. Has a white
selvedge. Some woven with alternating white and colored warp. "Faded" look. Has very soft coloring.
Some made with stripes, checks or embroidered. Smooth, strong, closely woven, soft and has a slight
luster. Wears very well, easy to sew, and launders well. If not crease resistant, it wrinkles easily.
Originated in Cobrai, France, where it was first made for sunbonnets.
Uses: Children's wear,
dresses, shirts and blouses, aprons, all kinds of sportswear.
A fine variety of gingham, commonly plain, but with the warp and weft of different colors.
From Cambric
Chamois cloth
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Plain Characteristics Fabric is napped, sheared, and dyed to simulate
chamois leather. It is stiffer than kasha and thicker, softer and more durable than flannelette. Must be
designated as "cotton chamois-color cloth".
Uses: Dusters, interlining, storage bags for articles to
prevent scratching.
Chamoisette
Fiber: Cotton, also rayon and nylon.
Weave: Knitted, double knit construction.
Characteristics: A fine, firmly knit fabric. Has a very short soft nap. Wears well. Nylon chamoisette
is more often called "glove silk".
Uses: Gloves.
Charmeuse
Fiber:
Weave: Satin
Characteristics: Originated as a French lightweight silk that was
recognized for its supreme luster and drapability. Today it is made out of rayon, cotton and manufactured
fibers and has a dull back. It is found in a variety of solids and prints.
Uses: Pajamas, dresses, and
draping gowns.
Charvet
Fiber:
Weave: Herringbone
Characteristics:
Uses: It is a soft, silky fiber with
high luster and a warp face.
It originated as a silk fiber but is now made of manufactured fibers.
Cheesecloth
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Originally used as a wrapping material for
pressing cheese. Loosely woven, thin, light in weight, open in construction, and soft. Carded yarns are
always used. It is also called gauze weave. When woven in 36" widths it is called tobacco cloth. When an
applied finish is added, it is called buckram, crinoline, or bunting.
Uses: In the gray cloth, it is used
for covering tobacco plants, tea bags and wiping cloths. Finished cloth is used for curtains, bandages, dust
cloths, cheap bunting, hat lining, surgical gauze, fly nets, food wrapping, e.g. meat and cheese, costumes
and basket tops.
Chenille
1. A tufty velvety cord or yarn, used in trimming furniture etc. 2. A fabric made from this.
Derivation of Chenille: from French; hairy caterpillar; from Latin canicula, diminutive of canis ‘dog’
Chenille fabric
Fiber: Cotton and any of the main textile fibers.
Weave: Mostly plain weave. Characteristics Warp
yarn of any major textile fiber. Filling of chenille yarns (has a pile protruding all around at right angles). The
word is French for caterpillar and fabric looks hairy. Do not confuse with tufted effects obtained without
the use of true Chenille filling.
Uses: Millinery, rugs, decorative fabrics, trimmings, upholstery.
Chevron
Broken twill or herringbone weave giving a chevron effect, creating a design of wide Vs across the width
of the fabric. Also known as Herringbone.
Chiffon
Fiber: Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: A light diaphanous
fabric of silk, nylon, etc Lightweight, sheer, transparent. Made with very fine, tightly twisted yarns. The
tightly twisted yarns could be either in the filling or the warp or both. It is very strong, despite filmy look.
Wears very well. It is very difficult to handle when sewing and it is best to baste the pieces over tissue to
make it easier. It has slightly bumpy look. It is best suited to shirring, draping, gathering, tucking, etc.,
because it is so limp. If made in a straight sheath style, it should be underlined with very firm fabric. e.g.
faille taffeta.
Uses: After 5 wear, blouses, scarves.
French from chiffe ‘rag’
Cheviot
Fiber: Wool originally and mostly made from wool from the Cheviot sheep but today also made of blends,
spun synthetics, crossbred and reused wools.
Weave: Twill (modern version sometimes plain).
Characteristics: Very rugged, harsh, uneven surface that does not hold a crease and sags with
wear. Resembles serge but is much more rugged and coarse and will not shine because of the rough
surface. Often sold as a homespun but true homespun has a plain weave and very heavy. Also sold as a
tweed.
Uses: Coats, suits, sportswear, sport's coats.
China silk
Fiber: Silk.
Weave: Originally hand woven in China of silk from the Bonabyx mori. Very soft and
extremely lightweight but fairly strong. Irregularities of threads caused by the extreme lightness and
softness are characteristic of the fabric.
Uses: Mostly for linings and under linings, and could be
used for blouses.
Chinchilla
Fiber: Cotton or wool, and some manmade and synthetics.
Weave: Sateen or twill construction
with extra fillings for long floats.
Characteristics: Does not resemble true chinchilla fur. Has small
nubs on the surface of the fabric which are made by the chinchilla machine. It attacks the face and causes
the long floats to be worked into nubs and balls. Cotton warp is often used because it cannot show from
either side. Made in medium and heavy weights. Very warm and cozy fabrics. Takes its name from
Chinchilla Spain where it was invented.
Uses: In cotton, used for baby's blankets and bunting
Chino
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Twill (left hand)
Characteristics: Combined two-ply warp and filling.
Has a sheen that remains. Fabric was purchased in China (thus the name) by the U.S. Army for uniforms.
Originally used for army cloth in England many years before and dyed olive-drab. Fabric is mercerized and
sanforised. Washes and wears extremely well with a minimum of care.
Uses: Army uniforms,
summer suits and dresses, sportswear.
Chintz
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Has bright gay figures, large flower designs,
birds and other designs. Also comes in plain colors. Several types of glaze. The wax and starch glaze
produced by friction or glazing calendars will wash out. The resin glaze finish will not wash out and
withstand dry cleaning. Also comes semi-glazed. Unglazed chintz is called cretonne. Named from the Indian
word "Chint" meaning "broad, gaudily printed fabric".
Uses: Draperies, slipcovers, dresses,
sportswear.
Chite
Fiber: linen
Characteristics: Originally from Chitta (India), where the trend of painted linens was
started in the 17th and 18th centuries.
Cisele velvet
A velvet with a pattern formed by contrast in cut and uncut loops.
Coir
Fiber:
Weave:
Characteristics: This seed fiber is obtained from the husk of the coconut.
Uses: Brush-making, door mats, fish nets, cordage.
Coney
Characteristics: Wild rabbits have brownish or gray colors. Tame ones range in color from white
to black. Uses Coats and trimmings.
Cordoban leather
Characteristics: Goat skin, simply-tanned. The art of preparing this leather came from Cordoba
where the craftsmen who were allowed to use it for shoes in the Middle ages were called cordwainers.
Corduroy
Fiber: Cotton, rayon, and other textile fibers.
Weave: Filling Pile with both plain and twill back.
Characteristics: Made with an extra filling yarn. In the velvet family of fabrics. Has narrow medium
and wide Wales, also thick and thin or checkerboard patterns. Wales have different widths and depths.
Has to be cut all one way with pile running up. Most of it is washable and wears very well. Has a soft
luster.
Uses: Children's clothes of all kinds, dresses, jackets, skirts, suits, slacks, sportswear,
men's trousers, jackets, bedspreads, draperies, and upholstery.
Cotton
A natural vegetable fiber of great economic importance as a raw material for cloth. Its widespread use is
largely due to the ease with which its fibers are spun into yarns. Cotton's strength, absorbency, and
capacity to be washed and dyed also make it adaptable to a considerable variety of textile products. It is
one of the world's major textile fibers.
It is obtained from bushy plants. The immature flower bud,
called a square, blooms and develops into an oval fruit called a boll that splits open at maturity, revealing a
mass of long white hairs, called lint, that cover the numerous brown or black seeds. There are four main
types of cotton: American Upland, Egyptian, Sea Island and Asiatic. The flowers from which these different
types of cotton are obtained vary in color and texture, thus providing each type of cotton with varying
characteristics. Cotton, in general, is very elastic. It can withstand high temperatures, has high wash ability
and is very susceptible to dyes.
Cotton brocade
Fiber: Cotton brocade often has the ground of cotton and the pattern of rayon and silk. Pattern is in low
relief.
Weave: Jacquard and dobby
Characteristics: Rich, heavy, elaborate design effect.
Sometimes with colored or metallic threads making the design usually against a satin weave background.
This makes the figures stand out. the figures in brocade are rather loose, while in damask the figure
threads are actually bound into the material. The pattern may be satin on a twill ground or twill on a satin
ground. Often reversible. The motifs may be of flowers, foliage, scrollwork, pastoral scenes, or other
designs. The price range is wide. Generally reputed to have been developed from the Latin name "brocade"
which means to figure.
Uses: All types of evening wear, church vestments, and interior furnishings.
Cotton canvas
Fiber: Cotton. Originally made in linen.
Weave: Plain, but also crosswise rib.
Characteristics: Also called duck. Name originated in 18th Century when canvas sails from Britain
bare the trademark symbol - a duck. Very closely woven and heavy. it is the most durable fabric made.
There are many kinds of duck but the heavier weighs are called canvas. It may be unbleached, white, dyed,
printed or painted. Washable, many are water-proof and wind proof. Made in various weights.
Uses: Utility clothing in lighter weights, such as trousers, jackets, aprons. Also for awnings, sails,
slipcovers, draperies, sportswear, tents, and many industrial uses.
Coutil
Coutil (or Coutille) is a tightly woven twill cloth with a herringbone pattern. It looks sleek with a smooth
finish. It has been created specifically for making corsets. It is woven tightly to inhibit penetration of
bones/stays and resist to stretching. Coutil can be made in plain, satin or brocade and generally colored
black, white or flesh.
Coutil can be soft, stiff or medium and this characteristic is determined by the starch finishing.
This dense, strong material is also used in the manufacture of medical corsets, i.e. Lumbo-Sacral and
French "Drill"
Covert
Fiber: Woolen or worsted, also cotton and spun rayon.
Weave: Twill
Characteristics:
Made with two shades of color e.g. (Medium and light brown). The warp is 2 ply (1 light; 1 dark) and filling 1
ply (dark or same as warp). Very rugged and closely woven. Has a mottled or speckled effect. First used
as a hunting fabric. Has a clear finish and hard texture. Wears exceptionally well and has a smart
appearance. Light in weight.
Uses: For over coating for both men and women. It is also made
waterproof and used a great deal in rain water.
Crash
Fiber: Linen.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: It is very rugged and substantial in feel. Come
in white or natural shades or could be dyed, printed, striped, or checked. The yarn is strong, irregular in
diameter but smooth. Has a fairly good texture.
Uses: Toweling, suitings, dresses, coats.
Crepe
Crêpe:
Fiber: Woolen, worsted cotton, silk, man-made synthetics.
Weave: Mostly plain, but
various weaves.
Characteristics: A fine often gauzelike fabric with a wrinkled surface. Has a
crinkled, puckered surface or soft mossy finish. Comes in different weights and degrees of sheerness. Dull
with a harsh dry feel. Woolen Crêpes are softer than worsted. If it is fine, it drapes well. Has very good
wearing qualities. Has a very slimming effect.
Uses: Depending on weight, it is used for dresses
of all types, including long dinner dresses, suits, and coats.
French via Old French crespe ‘curled’ from Latin crispus
Crepe de chine
Silk warp and Crêpe twist silk filling 25 x 22. More ends than picks per inch. Has a soft hand and
considerable luster. Made of raw silk or rayon. It is easy to manipulate and handle. Very long wearing. Most
of it launders well. It is fairly sheer. Could be piece dyed or printed. Has a slight rippled texture. Heavy
Crêpe de chine is called "Canton Crêpe" which is slightly ribbed and now mostly made in rayon.
Crepe back satin
Satin weave on the face and a Crêpe effect on the back obtained with twisted Crêpe yarns in the filling - 2
or 3 times as many ends as picks per inch. It is a soft fabric which is reversible. It is usually piece dyed.
Very interesting effects can be obtained in a garment by using both sides, in different parts. e.g. the Crêpe
side for the body and trim or binding with the satin part up.
Uses: Dresses, blouses, linings, after 5
wear.
Crepon
Crêpe effect appears in direction of the warp and achieved by alternate S and Z, or slack, tension, or
different degrees of twist. Originally a wool Crêpe but now made of silk and rayon. It is much stouter and
more rugged than the average Crêpe. Has a wavy texture with the "waves" running in a lengthwise
direction. Mostly used for prints.
Uses: Dresses and ensembles.
Crettone
Fiber: Cotton, linen, rayon.
Weave: Plain or twill.
Characteristics: Finished in widths from
30 to 50 inches. Quality and price vary a great deal. The warp counts are finer than the filling counts which
are spun rather loose. Strong substantial and gives good wear. Printed cretonne often has very bright
colors and patterns. The fabric has no luster (when glazed, it is called chintz). Some are warp printed and
if they are, they are usually completely reversible. Designs run from the conservative to very wild and often
completely cover the surface.
Uses: Bedspreads, chairs, draperies, pillows, slipcovers,
coverings of all kinds, beach wear, sportswear.
Crewel
Chain stitch embroidery made with a fine, loosely twisted, two-ply worsted yarn on a plain weave fabric.
Done by hand, for the most part, in the Kashmir Province of India and in England.
Crinoline
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: It is a very loosely woven fiber with high rigidity. It is
smooth, stiff, and has excellent strength. It comes in a variety of shades from white to black.
Uses: Stiffening, making interlining for hat shapes.
Crocking
Rubbing off of color from woven or printed fabrics.
D
Damask
Fiber: Linen, silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics, wool, worsteds.
Weave: Figured on Jacquard loom.
Characteristics: Originally made of silk, that came to us from China via Damascus. In the XIII
Century, Marco Polo gave an interesting tale about it. It is one of the oldest and most popular cloths to be
found today. Very elaborate designs are possible. Cloth is beetled, calendared and the better qualities are
gross-bleached. Very durable. reversible fabric. Sheds dirt. The firmer the texture, the better the quality.
Launders well and holds a high luster - particularly in linen. - Price range varies a great deal. There are two
types of damask table cloths: 1) Single damask table cloths: construction. Thread count is usually around
200. 2) Double damask has an 8 shaft satin construction with usually twice as many filling yarns as warp
yarns. This gives a much greater distinctness to the pattern. Thread count ranges from 165 to 400.- The
quality of both depends on the yarn used and the thread count. - If the same quality and thread count are
used, single is better than double because the shorter floats are more serviceable and the yarns hold more
firmly. Double damask with less than 180 thread count is no good for home use.
Degummed silk
By boiling the silk in hot water, the gum (sericin) is removed from the yarn/fabric. By doing this, the luster of
the silk is enhanced. It is very lightweight.
Denim
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Twill - right hand - may be L2/1 or L3/1.
Characteristics: Originally
had dark blue, brown or dark gray warp with a white or gray filling giving a mottled look and used only for
work clothes. now woven in bright and pastel colors with stripes as well as plain. Long wearing, it resists
snags and tears. Comes in heavy and lighter weights.
Uses: Work clothes, overalls, caps,
uniforms, bedspreads, slipcovers, draperies, upholstery, sportswear, of all kinds, dresses and has even
been used for evening wear.
From serge de Nim ‘serge of Nîmes’, a city in S. France
Dimity
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Plain weave with a crosswise or lengthwise spaced rib or crossbar effect.
Characteristics: A thin sheer with corded spaced stripes that could be single, double or triple
grouping. Made of combed yarn and is 36" wide. Has a crisp texture which remains fairly well after
washing. Resembles lawn in the white state. It is easy to sew and manipulate and launders well. Creases
unless crease-resistant. May be bleached, dyed, or printed and often printed with a small rose-bud design.
It is mercerized and has a soft luster.
Uses: Children's dresses, women's dresses, and blouses,
infant's wear, collar and cuff sets, bassinets, bedspreads, curtains, underwear. Has a very young look.
Uncertain, possibly from the greek word dismitos meaning double thread, or after the city of Damieta
in northern Egypt.
Direct print
Pattern and ground color printed on fabric in the colors desired, as opposed to extract printing done on a
dyed cloth. Cretonne is an example of a direct print
Dobby fabric
With geometric figures woven in a set pattern. Similar to, but more limited, more quickly woven, and cheaper
than jacquards, which require elaborate procedures to form patterns.
Dobby loom
A type of loom on which small, geometric figures can be woven in as a regular pattern. Originally this type
of loom needed a dobby boy who sat on the top of the loom and drew up warp threads to term a
pattern. Now the weaving is done entirely by machine. This loom differs from a plain loom in that it may have
up to thirty-two harnesses and a pattern chain and it’s expensive weaving.
Doeskin
Fiber: Wool and also rayon.
Weave: A 5 or 8 harness satin weave. Rayon: Twill weave and
napped on one side, or a small satin-weave.
Characteristics: Very smooth, lustrous surface made
with a slight short nap very close and compact weave to look like fine leather. Weave not visible because
of napping. Very high quality wool used. Needs care in handling. Medium weight.
Uses: Women's
suits and coats, and also in a lighter weight for dresses. Sportswear and riding habits for both men and
women. Trousers and waistcoats for men.
Domett flannel
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Plain and twill
Characteristics: Also spelled domet. Generally made
in white. Has a longer nap than on flannelette. Soft filling yarns of medium or light weight are used to obtain
the nap. The term domett is interchangeable with "outing flannel" but it is only made in a plain weave. Both
are soft and fleecy and won't irritate the skin. Any sizing or starching must be removed before using.
Outing flannel is also piece-dyed and some printed and produced in a spun rayon also.
Uses:
Mostly used for infants wear, interlinings, polished cloths.
Donegal
Fiber: Wool - also in rayons and cottons.
Weave: Mostly plain but some in twill.
Characteristics: Originally a homespun woven by the peasants in Donegal, Ireland. A rough and
ready fabric that stands much hard wear. Yarns are coarse with thick slubs and colored nubs. Now made
in other places as well - particularly England.
Uses: Coats, heavy suits, sportswear. Has a
tailored, sporty look.
Dotted swiss
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Plain weave for ground with a swivel, lappet or flocked dot.
Characteristics: Dots could be a single color or multicolored. Placed regularly or irregularly on a
semi-sheer usually crisp fabric which may or may not be permanent. First made on hand looms in
Switzerland and some still is. It is made in 32" widths. The lappet is the most permanent. When hand woven
with a swivel attachment the dots are tied in by hand on the back of the cloth. The ground fabric is usually a
Voilé or a lawn.
Uses: Children's and women's summer dresses and blouses, aprons, curtains,
bedspreads. It is a young looking fabric.
Double-faced satin
Yarn woven with two warps and one filling, to simulate a double satin construction. Has satin on both
sides. Cotton filling is often used in cheaper qualities.
Doubleknit
Fiber: Cotton, wool, worsted, silk, rayon, and synthetics
Weave: Circular or flat-needle bar type
Characteristics: A two faced cloth, either face may be utilized as the right side. The fabric
originated in Milan and Florence. Can be stabilized for shrinkage control and dry cleans satisfactorily.
Doupion
Silk yarns made from the cocoon of two ilk worms that have nested together. In spinning, the double strand
is not separated so the yarn is uneven and irregular with a large diameter in places. Fabric is of silk made in
a plain weave. The fabric is very irregular and shows many slubs - seems to be made in a hit and miss
manner. It is imitated in rayon and some synthetics, and one such fabric is called "Cupioni". Dupion yarns
also used in shantung, pongee. Tailors very well.
Douppioni
Silk yarns made from the cocoon of two silk worms that have nested together. In spinning, the double
strand is not separated so the yarn is uneven and irregular with a large diameter in places. Fabric is of silk
made in a plain weave. The fabric is very irregular and shows many slubs - seems to be made in a hit and
miss manner. It is imitated in rayon and some synthetics, and one such fabric is called "Cupioni". Dupion
yarns also used in shantung, pongee. Tailors very well.
Drill
Fiber: Cotton or Linen.
Weave: Twill. Left-hand twill. From top left to lower right. L2/1 or L3/1.
Characteristics: a coarse twilled cotton or linen fabric. Closer, flatter Wales that ganardine.
Medium weight and course yarns are used. Also made in some other weights. Some left in the gray but can
be bleached or dyed. When dyed a khaki color it is known by that name.
Uses: Uniforms, work
clothes, slip covers, sportswear, and many industrial uses.
earlier drilling via German Drillich from Latin trilix -licis, from tri- ‘three’ + licium ‘thread’
Duchesse
Weave: Satin.
Characteristics: This form of satin has a wonderful luster and a smooth
feel. Its thread count is very high. An 8-12 shaft satin. Very fine yarns are used, particularly in the warp
with more ends/inch than picks. The material is strong, has a high luster, and texture, and it is firm. Usually
91.5cm (36") wide. Characterized by grainy twill on back.
Uses: Women's wear.
Duvetyn(e)
Fiber: Good quality wool. If made in cotton, is usually called suede cloth.
Weave: Satin, 7 or 8
shaft.
Characteristics: Close weave, brushed, singed, and sheared to conceal the weave. Has a
smooth plush appearance resembling a compact velvet. Similar to wool broadcloth but heavier and thicker.
Has a good draping quality, soft and wears well if looked after. Spots easily and care must be taken when
handling it. Back is often slightly napped also. Name derived from the French word "duvet" meaning "down".
Uses: Women's coats, suits, and dresses, depending on the weight. Used a great deal in the
millinery trade.
Dyeing
The coloring of greige (gray) goods or fibers with either natural or synthetic dyes. This may be done in
many different ways depending on the type of fabric (or fiber), the type of dye and the desired result Some
of the more common methods are:
Continuous Dyeing Fabric is continuously dyed. Dye lots may run to 30.000 yards/color.
Jet Dyeing Used for dyeing Polyester. Pressure kettles are used to reach extremely high
temperatures and force the dye into the fiber.
Milliken Dyeing Developed by Milliken & Company for continuous pattern dyeing.
Piece Dyeing Fabric is passed through the dye solution for a specified length of time.
Printing A term referring to methods of applying designs to greige goods. Some types of printing
are roller printing, screen printing, and handblocked printing.
Solution Dyeing A solution of dye is added to the liquid synthetic before spinning it into a yarn.
Vat Dyeing An insoluble dye that has been made soluble is put on the fiber and then oxidized to
the original insoluble form. Average dye lot 700 yards.
Yarn Dyeing Yarn is dyed before it is woven into fabric.
Cationic Dyeing A dye technique that allows certain fibers (like nylon, or polyester)to take deep
and brilliant colors. When catonic fiber is fixed with conventional fiber, various multicolors and cross-dye
effects can be achieved from a single dye bath.
Middle English dien
E
Elastomer
Characteristics: It is a synthetic rubber that can be stretched to at least three times its original
length. Once the exerted pull force is released, this fiber returns to its original length.
Eolienne
Characteristics: its name comes from the term Eolus, which is Greek for God of Winds. This airy
fiber has a low thread count and is very delicate. It is lightweight and is very lustrous.
Eponge
Fiber: Wool, also rayon and silk.
Weave: any weave - usually a novelty - plain warp, novelty filling
or reverse.
Characteristics: Derived from the French term eponge for "spongy". Very soft and
sponge-like in a variety of novelty effects with loose weave of about 20 x 20. Also known as ratine in
cotton. Rayon and silk is soft, loose, and spongy, something like terry cloth. Does not have surface loops.
Many stores now call eponge "boucle".
Uses: Suits, dresses, coats, sportswear, and summer
suits.
Eskimo cloth
Weave: Satin or Twill
Characteristics: It is an over-coating with a thick nap. It is usually
dyed so as to create wide stripes.
Uses: Over-coating.
Etamine
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: It was originally made of wool, cotton or linen and used for
sifting. It is now a worsted fabric with a very short nap and light in weight.
Uses: Clothing.
F
Faconne
Fiber: Silk or rayon.
Weave: Figured weave or "burnt-out" finish.
Characteristics:
Faconne in French, means fancy weave. Has small designs all over the fabric. Fairly light in weight, and
could be slightly Crêped. Background is much more sheer than the designs, therefore the designs seem to
stand out. Very effective when worn over a different color. Drapes, handle, and wears well.
Uses: Dresses, blouses, scarves, after 5, dressy afternoon and bridal wear.
Faconne velvet
Patterned velvet made by burnt-out print process. The design is of velvet with background plain.
Faille
Fiber: Silk, rayon.
Weave: Crosswise rib.
Characteristics: A soft transversely ribbed silk
or rayon fabric. Has a definite crosswise rib effect. Very soft material that drapes well. Finer than
grosgrain but in that family - ribs are also flatter than in grosgrain. Some belongs to the Crêpe family. It is
rather difficult to launder. Will give good wear if handled properly. Has a lustrous finish.
Uses:
Dresses, blouses, soft evening purses, some dressy coats.
French
Faille taffeta
Made with a crosswise rib weave. Has a distinct rib effect and is usually quite heavy and firm.
Felt
Fiber: Wool, reprocessed wool, reused wool, scrap fiber, can be mixed with other fibers, cotton, rayon.
Weave: Not woven but felted.
Characteristics: A very compact fabric in various weights
and thicknesses. Has grain so can be cut any way. Needs no hemming or finishing, because it does not
fray.
Uses: Many industrial uses, such as: piano hammers and in the printing industry. Many
novelties, such as: pennants, slippers, lining of many kinds, insoles, and toys. Hats and felt skirts.
Fiber
Any tough substance, natural or man-made, composed of thread-like tissue capable of being made into
yarn.
Fiber base
Most man-made fibers are formed by forcing a syrupy substance (about the consistency of honey) through
the tiny holes of a device called a spinneret
Fiberglass
Fibers and yarns produced from glass and woven into flexible fabrics. Noted for its fireproof qualities.
Fill
The threads running widthwise across a piece of fabric.
Finished goods
Fabric that has been processed by dyeing, printing, applying of special resins and finishes, and is ready for
market.
Finishing
The process of dyeing, printing, etc. of greige goods.
Flannel
Fiber: Wool, worsted, cotton, rayon. 1 a kind of woven woolen fabric, usu. without a nap. b (in pl.) flannel
garments, esp. trousers. 2 Brit. a small usu. toweling cloth, used for washing oneself.
perhaps from Welsh gwlanen, from gwl³n ‘wool’
Flannelette
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Plain and twill.
Characteristics: A napped cotton fabric imitating
flannel. A heavy, soft material with a napped finish, usually only on one side. In cheaper qualities the nap
comes off. Launders well, easy to manipulate and is warm to wear. There are many types on the market. It
may be bleached, dyed, printed, or woven in colored stripes.
Uses: Infants and children's wear,
men's, women's and children's sleeping wear, pocket linings, quilts, shirtings.
Flat crepe
Also called French Crêpe or Lingerie Crêpe but not exactly the same. It is the flattest of all the Crêpes with
only a very slight pebbled or Crêpe effect hard twist alternating 25 x 22 in filling; warp has ordinary twist. It
is very soft and pliable, which makes it good for draping. It is very light weight - 2 times as many ends as
picks. It may be white, colored, or printed. Most of it launders well.
Uses: Accessories, blouses,
dress goods, negligees, pajamas and other pieces of lingerie and linings.
Flax
This fiber is taken from the stalk of the Linum usitaatissimum plant. It is a long, smooth fiber and is cylindrical
in shape. its length varies from 6 to 40 inches but on average is between 15 and 25 inches. its color is
usually off-white or tan and due to its natural wax content, flax has excellent luster. It is considered to be
the strongest of the vegetable fibers and is highly absorbent, allowing moisture to evaporate with speed. It
conducts heat well and can be readily boiled. It's wash ability is great, however, it has poor elasticity and
does not easily return to its original shape after creasing.
Uses: Apparel fabric. When processed
into fabric it is called linen. It is also used for tablecloths, napkins, doilies, twine, aprons, fishing tackle, and
nets.
Fleece
Fiber: Wool, specialty hair fibers, cotton.
Weave: Plain, twill, pile or knitted.
Characteristics: Has a deep, soft nap or pile, obtained by heavily napping with wire brushes or
with a pile weave. This provides air space giving good insulating properties without too much weight. The
interlacings are well covered by the nap. The nap wears out in time, but good quality cloth gives good
wear. Range from cheap to expensive clothes. Material is often cumbersome and bulky, therefore it may be
difficult to manipulate. Also, the name for the entire coat of wool taken from a sheep at shearing time.
Uses: Mostly used for coats for men, women, and children.
Flock
1. a lock or tuft of wool, cotton, etc. 2. a (also in pl.; often attrib.) material for quilting and stuffing made of
wool refuse or torn-up cloth (a flock pillow). b powdered wool or cloth.
Middle English via Old French floc from Latin floccus
Foulard
Fiber: Silk, rayon, very fine cotton, very fine worsted.
Weave: Twill, 2 up 2 down.
Characteristics: Very soft, light fabric. Noted for its soft finish and feel. It is usually printed with
small figures on a dark or light background. Similar to Surah and Tie Silk, but finer. Was originally imported
from India.
Uses: Dresses, robes, scarves, and neckwear of all kinds. First made for the
handkerchief trade.
Fox
Characteristics: color varies from black to red, silver, silver-gray and white.
Uses:
Scarves, muffs, jackets, coats, trimmings, also to provide softness in wool blends for textile industry.
Frise
Fiber: Rayon most popular, also mohair and silk and synthetics. The ground or backing yarns are usually
made of cotton. Sometimes jute or hemp are combined with the cotton.
Weave: Pile (looped).
Characteristics: Made usually with uncut loops in all-over pattern. It is sometimes patterned by
shearing the loops at different lengths. Some made with both cut and uncut loops in the form of a pattern.
Uses: Upholstery, also used widely as transportation fabric by railroads, buses, and airplanes.
Frise is also spelled Frieze but frieze really refers to a rough, fuzzy, rizzy, boardy woolen over coating
fabric which originated in Friesland Holland. Often used for over coating material for soldiers. Much
adulteration is given the cloth. Irish frieze is quite popular and more reliable and is called "cotha more".
Fustian
Fiber: cotton or cotton with linen or flax.
Weave: cross woven when a mix.
Characteristics: Was used for undergarments and linings. Originally made in Fustat near Cairo,
hence its name.
G
Gabardine
Fiber: Worsted cotton, rayon, or mixtures.
Weave: Steep twill (63 degrees).
Characteristics: A smooth durable twill-woven cloth esp. of worsted, spun rayon or cotton. Clear
finish, tightly woven, firm, durable, rather lustrous. Can be given a dull finish. Has single diagonal lines on
the face, raised twill. Wears extremely well. Also comes in various weights. Inclined to shine with wear.
Hard to press properly.
Uses: Men's and women's tailored suits, coats, raincoats, uniforms, and
men's shirts.
Old French gauvardine, perhaps from Middle High German wallevart ‘pilgrimage’
Gattar
Fiber:
Weave: Satin
Characteristics: It is made with a cotton filling and a silk warp. It is
only found in solid colors and is known for its elegant luster and excellent drapability.
Uses:
Elegant evening wraps.
Georgette
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: A thin silk or crêpe dress material. Usually done in silk but
can also be found in manufactured fibers. It is characterized by its crispness, body and outstanding
durability. It is sheer and has a dull face.
Named after Georgette de la Plante (c.. 1900), French dressmaker
Georgette crepe
Lightweight, heavy, sheer fabric. Has quite a bit of stiffness and body. gives excellent wear. Has a dull,
crinkled surface. Achieved by alternating S and Z yarns in a high twist in both warp and filling directions.
Georgette has a harder, duller, more crinkled feel and appearance than Crêpe de chine.
Uses:
After 5 wear and dressy afternoon and weddings, lingerie, scarves, etc. Same uses as Crêpe de chine.
Gingham
Fiber: Cotton, man-made, and synthetics.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: Yarn-dyed plain
weave cotton fabric, usually striped or checked. Medium or fine yarns of varying quality are used to obtain
the checks, plaids, stripes, and plain effects. The cloth is yarn dyed or printed. The warp and the filling are
usually balanced and if checks of two colors, usually same sequence in both the warp and the filling. It is
strong, substantial, and serviceable. It launders will but low textured, cheap fabric may shrink considerably
unless pre-shrunk. Has a soft, dull luster surface. Wrinkles unless wrinkle-resistant. Tissue or zephyr
ginghams are sheer being woven with finer yarns and a higher thread count.
Uses: Dresses,
blouses, for both women and children, trimmings, kerchiefs, aprons, beach wear, curtains, bedspreads,
pajamas.
From Malay ginggang Lit. striped.
Glazed
Cotton fabrics such as chintz or tarlatan treated with starch, glue, paraffin, or shellac and run through a hot
friction roller to give a high polish. These types are not durable in washing. Newer, more durable methods
use synthetic resins that withstand laundering.
Glove silk
Fiber: Silk, rayon, synthetics.
Weave: Knit - two bar doubleknit tricot.
Characteristics:
Made on a warp knitted frame. Very finely knit but very strong. Now called nylon Simplex.
Uses:
Gloves and underwear. Similar to chamoisette (cotton).
Granada
Fiber:
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: Its name is derived from the Latin word Granum,
which refers to the grainy quality of the textile. This granular quality is achieved by a broken twill weave. It
is made of a cotton warp and alpaca or mohair filling. This fiber is exceptionally fine.
Greige
French for fabrics in unbleached, undyed state before finishing.
Grenadine
Fiber:
Weave: Leno
Characteristics: This fine fiber originated in Italy. It can be made in
various fibers such as cotton, wool, silk or manufactured fibers. It is well know for its stiffness.
Uses: Women's clothing.
Grosgrain
Heavy, corded, silk or rayon ribbon or fabric. Plain weave with horizontal ribs.
French: gros grain large grain.
Guanaco
Guanaco, common name for a species of wild South American ruminant (cud-chewing mammal). The
closely related alpaca and llama are completely domesticated; the related vicuna is also found in South
America. The guanaco lives on mountains and plains in Argentina, Bolivia, Chile, Peru, and Paraguay.
Produces a fleece of the most glorious natural honey beige color. Very soft.
Guipure lace
A heavy stiff open lace. Design stands in relief. There is no background or net, the patterned areas are
joined by threads known as bridges.
From old French word guiper meaning to cover a cord with silk or wool.
H
Habutai
Fiber: Silk.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: Very light weight and soft. A little heavier than
China Silk, but similar. Sold by weight measure known "momme" (1 momme = 3.75 g). Made from waste silk
that can be twisted. It is piece dyed or printed and sized. Has many defects in the cloth which has a "shot-
about" appearance but this does not effect the cloth. Comes from Japan - originally woven in the gum on
Japanese hand looms. Lighter than shantung but heavier than silk.
Uses: Dresses, coats, shirting,
lamp shades, lingerie, curtains.
Hare
Rabbits and Hares, common name for certain small mammals of the Leporidae family. Although the names
"rabbit" and "hare" are sometimes used interchangeably, in zoological terms the species called rabbits are
characterized by the helplessness of their offspring (which are born naked and blind) and by their
gregarious habit of living in colonies in underground burrows. Furthermore, a typical hare is larger than a
rabbit, and has longer ears with characteristic black markings. Hair texture is woolly.
Uses: Felting.
Harris tweed
All are hand woven on the islands off the Northern coast of Scotland (outer Hebrides).
There are two types of Harris Tweed:
1) Fabric woven from hand-spun yarn.
2) Fabric woven from machine-spun yarn.
Now very few are woven from hand spun yarns as it takes too much time and labor. It is always stamped
to that effect in addition to the label which any Harris Tweed always bears. Much is woven in 27" and 28"
widths, but also in 54". When damp, it smells mossy and smoky.
From one of the islands where it's made "Harris". Trademark.
Heat transfer printing
The technique of printing fabrics by transferring a printed design from paper to fabric via heat and
pressure. It's derived from the art of decalcomania, which is the process of transferring pictures or designs
from specially prepared paper to other materials such as glass. HTP paper is the starting point for heat
transfer printing. Transfer printing is used mainly on fine knit fabrics and lightweight fabrics and is rapidly
gaining in importance in textile circles. Also being used by apparel makers on parts of garments to enhance
their fashion appeal.
Hemp
Common name for an Asian annual herb (Cannabis), and also for its strong, pliable fibers. This species is
often called true hemp or Indian hemp. It is cultivated in Eurasia, the United States, and Chile. A hemp plant
may be as small as 91 cm (36 in) or as tall as 5 m (15 ft), depending upon the climate and soil type. There
are two cultivated strains: the one commonly grown in the north is grown principally for fiber, the one
grown mainly in southern regions is grown as a drug plant.
Hemp stems are hollow and have a fibrous inner bark. The fibers from this bark are used to make a great
variety of textile products, including coarse fabrics, ropes, sailcloth, and packing cloth. Soft fibers, used for
making clothing fabrics in Asia, are obtained from hemp harvested at the time of pollination; strong, coarse
fibers are obtained from mature plants. The fibers are removed and processed by methods similar to those
used in processing flax. Partly decomposed, the stalks are dried, broken, and shaken to separate the
woody stalks from the fibers. The fiber is dark tan or brown and is difficult to bleach, but it can be dyed
bright and dark colors. The hemp fibers vary widely in length, depending upon their ultimate use. Industrial
fibers may be several inches long, while fibers used for domestic textiles are about 3/4 inch to 1 inch (1.9
to 2.54 cm) long. The elongation (1 to 6 percent) is low and its elasticity poor. The thermal reactions of hemp
and the effect of sunlight are the same as for cotton. Hemp is moth resistant, but it is not impervious to
mildew. Coarse hemp fibers and yarns are woven into cordage, rope, sacking and heavy-duty tarpaulins. In
Italy, fine hemp fibers are used for interior design and apparel fabrics.
Henequen
It is obtained from the leaves of the Agave fourcroydes plant, which is native to Mexico. It is produced by
mechanically decorticating the leaves into strands from 4 to 5 feet.
Henequen, sisal, and bowstring hemp belong to the family Agavaceae.
Henrietta
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: Originally consisted of worsted filling and silk warp. Today,
it can be found in a variety of blends. It has excellent drapability. Its weight and quality vary with fibers,
however, when created with silk and wool it is lustrous and soft.
Uses: Dress goods.
Herringbone twill
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: It was named after the skeleton of the Herring as this is
what the fiber pattern resembles. It is usually created in wool and has varying qualities. It is also known as
Arrowhead.
Uses: Suitings, top coatings, sports coats.
Hickory cloth
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: It is characterized by its excellent durability. It is warp
striped and comes in a variety of colors. It usually is created with cotton.
Uses: Work clothes.
Homespun
Fiber: Cotton or wool
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Coarse, rugged yarn is used.
Originally an un dyed woolen cloth spun into yarn and woven in the home, by peasants and country folk the
world over. Has substantial appearance and serviceable qualities. Made with irregular, slightly twisted
uneven yarns. Has a spongy feel with a hand-loomed tweedy appearance. Genuine homespun is produced
in a very limited quantity and much powerloom cloth is sold as genuine homespun. Many qualities made -
the best is an ideal rough-and-ready type of cloth.
Uses: Coats, suits, separates and sportswear.
Honan
Fiber: Silk, also from man-made synthetics.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: The best grade
of wild silk. Very similar to "pongee" but finer. Made from wild silkworms raised in the Honan area of China.
The only wild type that gives even dyeing results. Do not fit too tightly.
Uses: Dresses, ensembles,
blouses, lingerie.
Honey comb
Fiber:
Weave: Float
Characteristics: Its name comes from a French word meaning birds
nest. Its patterns are regular and open. Honey Comb is found in many fabrics and is also known as
Diamond Weave.
Uses: Draperies, jackets and women's clothing.
Hong kong
This is a ribbed fabric usually found in plain colors. It comes in a variety of qualities but the best type is
made out of silk.
Hopsacking
Fiber: Wool, worsted, cotton, linen, rayon, silk, hemp, jute.
Weave: Basket. In wool and worsted 2
x 2 basket usually or novelty basket to resemble hopsack cloth.
Characteristics: Made with coarse
yarn. Has a rather rough texture and quite durable. Often quite bulky but various weights.
Uses:
Men's and women's sportswear, coats, suits, draperies. If fine, used for dresses.
Houndstooth
Fiber: most commonly made with wool.
Weave: broken twill weave.
Characteristics:
weaved into an irregular check of a four pointed star.
Uses: sport coats, suits.
Huckaback
Fiber: Linen, cotton.
Weave: Dobby or basket.
Characteristics: It is strong. Rough in the
surface finish but finer, shinier than cotton huckaback. Has variation in weaves but most have small
squares on the surface that stand out from the background. Comes in white, colors, or colored borders.
Also stripes. The motif is made from a series of floats, some of them rather long, which gives a loose effect
in certain areas. This, if well spaced, acts as a good absorbing agency.
Uses: Mostly used for
toweling.
I
Illusion
Fiber: Silk.
Weave: Gauze or made on bobbinet machine or knotted.
Characteristics: A
very fine, all-silk tulle which originated in France. It has a cobweb appearance. Hexagonal open mesh.
Made in 52 inch and 72 inch widths.
Uses: Veilings, particularly for weddings, trimmings.
Intarsia
A type of knitting.
Usually featuring large diamond checks showing light, dark and halftones in between.
The diamond areas are separated from each other by complete loops, and not loops superimposed on
ground loops made from other yarns.
Mock intarsia knit gives the same patterning motif using the jacquard mechanism.
Design is most often
seen on sweaters, scarves, socks and stockings.
The word intarsia refers to all kinds of 'inlay' including marquetry, which is a form of decoration for furniture
and architectural panels.
From the Italian word, intarsiare meaning 'inlay'.
Ixtle
Fiber Linen, cotton.
Weave: Dobby or basket.
Characteristics: It is strong. Rough in the
surface finish but finer, shinier than cotton huckaback. Has variation in weaves but most have small
squares on the surface that stand out from the background. Comes in white, colors, or colored borders.
Also stripes. The motif is made from a series of floats, some of them rather long, which gives a loose effect
in certain areas. This, if well spaced, acts as a good absorbing agency.
J
Jackrabbit
Animal also known as a Hare. Hair texture is woolly.
Uses: Felting.
Jacquard
A woven design made with the aid of a jacquard head (this constitutes a jacquard loom) and may vary from
simple, self-colored, spot effects to elaborate, multicolored all-over effects.
The loom operates a bit like the roller on a player piano. But instead of notes, it gives instructions to the
machine on how to create the design.
Named after J. M. Jacquard, French inventor of the loom d. 1834
Jersey
Fiber: Wool, worsted, silk, cotton, rayon, and synthetics.
Weave: Knitted on circular, flat-bed or
warp knitted methods (later popular as a tricot-knit).
Characteristics: Right side has lengthwise ribs
(Wales) and wrong side has crosswise ribs (courses). Very elastic with good draping qualities. Has
special crease-resistant qualities due to its construction. Is knitted plain or has many elaborate tweed
designs and fancy motifs as well as printed designs. Can look very much like woven fabric. Wears very
well and if washable, it washes very well. First made on the Island on Jersey off the English coast and
used for fisherman's clothing. Stretch as you sew.
Uses: Dress goods, sportswear, suits,
underwear, coats, gloves, sweaters, hats.
Jusi
Jusi fabric was once made from Abaca or Banana_Silk, but since the 1960's, it has been replaced by
imported Silk_Organza. A Barong Tagalog (or simply Barong) is an embroidered formal garment of the
Philippines. Most barong are made of Pina_Cloth or Jusi fabric. Jusi is mechanically woven and stronger
than the Pina_Cloth, which is hand loomed and more delicate. However, pina cloth is more expensive than
Jusi and is thus used for very formal events.
Jute
Jute (or Burlap) is used in textiles for interiors, especially for wall hangings and a group of bright,
homespun-effect draperies and wall coverings. Natural jute has a yellow to brown or gray color, with a
silky luster. It consists of bundles of fiber held together by gummy substances that are pertinacious in
character. It is difficult to bleach completely, so many fabrics are bright, dark, or natural brown in color. Jute
reacts to chemicals in the same way as do cotton and flax. It has a good resistance to micro-organisms
and insects. Moisture increases the speed of deterioration but dry jute will last for a very long time. Jute
works well for bagging, because it does not extend and is somewhat rough and coarse. This tends to keep
stacks of bags in position and resist slippage. It is widely used in the manufacture of linoleum and carpets
for backing or base fabric.
K
Kapok
A seed fiber or floss obtained from the cotton tree. It is used chiefly for stuffing.
Karakul
Also caracul.
n. Also called broadtail.
A breed of Central Asian sheep having a wide tail and wool that is curled and glossy in the young but wiry
and coarse in the adult.
Fur made from the pelt of a karakul lamb.
Kasha
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: Originally made of Vicuna. Today the Vicuna is considered
an endangered species so Kasha is made from either a blend of cashmere and wool or a very fine wool.
Uses: Clothing.
Kashmir
Fiber: From the Kashmir goat, a hair fiber found in Kashmir India, Tibet, Iran, Iraq, China, Persia, Turkestan
and Outer Mongolia. Often mixed with wool or synthetics to cut costs and improve the wear.
Weave: All weaves but mostly plain or twill. All knits.
Characteristics: Fiber is cylindrical,
soft and silken. More like wool than any other hair fiber. Has a very soft silky finish; very light in weight.
Doesn't stand up to hard wear on account of extremely soft downy finish. Natural fiber is white, black,
brown or gray but can be died a variety of shades. Comes in different weights.
Uses: The textile
industry is only interested in the soft fibers. Knitted into sweaters for men and women, also women's
dresses. Often combed and sold in tops and noils.
Kenaf
It is a bast fiber that is obtained from the Hibiscus cannabinus plant. The stalk of this plant varies in height
from 8 to 12 feet and is about half an inch in diameter. Kenaf is mostly produced in India and Pakistan but
also grows in Africa, South East Asia, Indonesia, Russia, Mexico, the Philippines, Cuba and the United
States. It is mainly used for cordage, canvas, and sacking. It is sometimes used as a substitute for Jute.
Kersey
Fiber: Wool - poor quality, can also be made of re-used or remanufactured wool.
Weave: Double
cloth.
Characteristics: Medium to heavy weight, similar to melton and beaver. Well fulled in the
finishing with a rather lustrous nap caused by the use of lustrous crossbred wools. Nap often has
direction. Gives good wear and is dressy looking. Blues, browns and blacks are the most popular colors.
Originated in Kersey, England in 11th century. Very similar to beaver but it is fulled more, has a shorter nap
and a much higher luster.
Uses: Men's over coating, uniforms, women's coats, and skirts.
Knitting
Process of making fabric by interlocking series of loops of one or more yarns.
L
Lambs wool
Lamb`s Wool:
Elastic, soft, resilient wool fibers obtained from lambs when they are seven or eight
months old - the first or virgin clipping from the animal. This lofty stock is used in better grades of fabrics.
Lame
Lamé:
Fiber: Silk or any textile fiber in which metallic threads are used in the warp or the filling. Lamé is
also a trade mark for metallic yarns.
Weave: Usually a figured weave but could be any.
Characteristics: A fabric with gold or silver threads interwoven. Often has pattern all over the
surface. The shine and glitter of this fabric makes it suitable for dressy wear. The term comes from the
French for "worked with gold and silver wire".
Uses: Principally for evening wear. a fabric with
gold or silver threads interwoven
French for "trimmed with leaves of gold or silver", from Latin lamina
Lampas
A term describing a jacquard fabric, a term interchangeable with a brocade or damask. Can be two-tone or
multicolor, the difference being that the design has a greate | |
