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Our dictionary of fabric terms will teach you the ins-and-outs of the fabric world...
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A | B | C | D | E | F | G | H | I | J | K | L | M | N | O | P | Q | R | S | T | U | V | W | Y | Z |
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A
Abaca
More commonly known as Manila Hemp.
Absorbency
The ability of a fabric to take in moisture. Absorbency is an important property affecting many other
characteristics such as skin comfort, static build-up, shrinkage, stain removal, water repellence, and
wrinkle recovery.
Acetate
The ester cellulose ethanoate (cellulose acetate), referred to commercially simply as acetate, is used in
fabrics, fibers, and films.
One of the first manufactured fibers. It is soft and has a crisp feel. It has
the lustrous appearance of silk and excellent appearance when draped. It is not a strong fiber, as its
resistance to abrasion is poor. Resists shrinkage, moths, and mildew and does not absorb moisture readily.
Its yarns are pliable and supple and will always spring back to their original shape. It is fast drying and
when heated becomes more pliable. Acetone and alcohol dissolve acetate fibers. Special dyes are required
if it is to be colored.
Uses: Clothing, uniforms, lingerie, carpets, bathing suits, draperies,
automobile upholstery, fillings for pillows, interlinings.
Acrylic
Acrylic resins, often called acrylics, are made by the polymerization of acrylates or other monomers
containing the acrylic group. Acrylic compounds are thermoplastic (they soften or fuse when heated and
reharden upon cooling), are impervious to water, and have low densities. These qualities make them
suitable for the manufacture of a variety of objects and substances, including molded structural materials,
adhesives, and textile fibers.
Such fibers are used to weave durable, easily laundered fabrics that
resist shrinkage. It is a durable fiber with a soft, woolly feel. It has an uneven surface, making it different
from most manufactured fibers. It comes in a variety of colors, and can be dyed easily. It is resistant to sun
and chemicals.
Uses: Often used as a replacement for wool.
Probably invented by some boffin on his/her day off.
Agneline
A black woolen fabric with a very long nape. It is coarse and heavy. When stretched the fibers tighten and
become water resistant.
Albert cloth
Characteristics: It has a double layer of wool and is reversible. Faces and backs may vary in color
and pattern. Provides additional warmth and body.
Uses: Outer wraps.
Alginate
Alginate was first produced from seaweed in 1940. It is a product of a neutralizing reaction between alginic
acid and caustic soda. It is non-flammable. When combined with other fibers, it takes on a sheer
appearance.
Uses: Garnishing, camouflage and netting.
Alpaca
True alpaca is hair from the Alpaca animal, a member of the Llama family of the South American Andes
Mountains. Also imitated in wool, wool and alpaca, rayon, mohair and rayon or cotton and a cotton warp
and alpaca filling also synthetics - e.g. orlon.
Weave: Various weaves, knits, and weights.
Characteristics: Fine, silk-like, soft, light weight and warm. It is very rich and silky with
considerable luster and resembles mohair. If guard hairs are used, it is inclined to be stiff. It is strong and
durable. True alpaca is expensive so often combined with other fibers or imitated by other fibers - e.g.
orlon. Alpaca is found in white, black, fawn or gray. The fibers are less coarse than those of the llama but
are higher in tensile strength.
Uses: Men's and Women's suits, coats and sportswear, linings and
sweaters. Some fine alpaca used for women's dresses. Also in pile or napped fabric for coating.
Amazon
Weave: Satin
Characteristics: It is very soft.
Angora goat
Fiber: The clipped fiber of the living animal is called mohair.
Weave: Various weaves and
knitted.
Characteristics: Scoured mohair appears smooth and white. It varies in fineness and is
highly resilient, very strong and has high luster. Its value is determined by its luster and not its softness.
Uses: Used extensively in industries such as carpet, upholstery, curtain and automobile
cloth.
Angora rabbit
Fiber: Hair from the angora rabbit. It is indigenous to Asia Minor and Turkey. Often blended and mixed with
wool to lower the price of the finished article or to obtain fancy or novelty effects.
Weave: Various weaves and knitted.
Characteristics: Long, very fine, light
weight, extremely warm and fluffy. Has a tendency to shed and mat with time. Must be designated as
angora rabbit's hair. This fur fiber is one of the finest.
Uses: Used mostly in knit wear -
gloves, scarves, sweaters, etc. for children and women. Also blended with wool in dress goods and suits
Aramid
This strong fibre does not have a melting point and is flame proof. It retains its shape, even at high
temperatures and is resistant to stretch.
Argyle
A "version" of the tartan of the Scottish clan Argyle.
Also known as Bias_Plaid.
Comprising a Diamond-shaped knit design that appears to be inlaid into the fabric. Usually three colors, but
two color combinations are also used.
Originally hand knitted, but is now machine-made throughout the world using the intarsia method.
Tartan socks featuring the argyle pattern are worn with the kilt, particularly by military regiments.
From the district of Argyll in the West Highlands of Scotland.
Armure
Fiber: Cotton, silk, wool, rayon, synthetics, and blends.
Weave: Plain, twill, or rib, background often
has a small design either jacquard or dobby made with warp floats on surface giving a raised effect.
Characteristics: Design is often in two colors and raised. The name was derived from original
fabric which was woven with a small interlaced design of chain armor and used for military equipment
during the Crusades.
Uses: Elegant evening gowns, draperies, or upholstery.
Art linen
Fiber: Linen.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: It is woven with even threads that are
especially good for embroidery. It is very easy to "draw" the yarns for drawn thread work. Comes
bleached, or colored. Has a soft finish.
Uses: All kinds of needlework, lunch cloths, serviettes, etc.
Asbestos
A fibrous silicate mineral once used for making incombustable or fireproof articles. Now considered
extremely dangerous.
Astrakhan
Fiber: Wool. Sometimes made with a mohair warp to add luster and curl to the surface. Poor grades often
have cotton warp or back. Fur: Luxuriant fur, curly and wavy. Most popular shade is brown. It is a karakul
lambskin form the Astrakhan section of Russia.
Weave: Good grades woven with a pile weave
and cut. Cheap grades are knitted.
Characteristics: Resembles astrakhan fur. Deep pile with curled
loops. Durable and warm.
Uses: Coats, cloaks, trimmings and accessories.
B
Baize
Also known as Bayeta.
A thick, bright green or red cloth that looks like felt.
Used to cover billiard tables, as pads under objects to prevent scratching. Also used to make traditional
clothing of some South American peoples.
Possibly from the town of Baza in Spain, or the french word baies a red/brown color.
Banana silk
In many Asian countries, the stalk of the banana plant is processed to make fabric. Different layers of the
banana stem yield fibers for different uses. The outer layer produces fibers used for tablecloths. The next
layer yields fibers used for obi and ties. The third layer is used for kimono and saris.
Pieces of the fabric used for the saris are then collected and spun into Banana Silk.
Barathea
Fiber: Worsted, silk, rayon or silk or rayon warp combined with cotton or wool.
Weave: An
indistinct twill, plain or novelty. Usually a twilled hopsack weave.
Characteristics: Fine textured,
slightly pebbled surface. Appears to be cut off-grain. Very hard wearing. English in origin and originally
made as a mourning cloth. It is still often dyed black.
Uses: Women's suits and coats, men's
evening wear, dress goods in light fibers. Also used in silk for cravat cloth and after five wear.
Batik
A method, originating in Java, of resist dyeing which employs wax as the resist. The pattern is covered
with wax and the fabric is then dyed, producing a white design on a dyed ground. The waxed patterns will
not take the dye, and the wax is removed after dyeing. The process is repeated to obtain multicolored
designs. The effect is sometimes imitated in machine prints.
Batiste
Fiber: Cotton, also rayon and wool.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Named after Jean
Batiste, a French linen weaver. Light weight, soft, semi-sheer fabric which resembles nainsook, but finer. It
belongs to the lawn family; almost transparent. It is made of tightly twisted, combed yarns and mercerized
finish. Sometimes it is printed or embroidered. In a heavier weight, it is used for foundation garments and
linings in a plain, figured, striped, or flowered design. Considered similar to nainsook but finer and lighter in
weight. Now usually made of 100% polyester distinguished by slubs in filling direction.
Bayadere
Fiber: Silk.
Weave: Crosswise rib (plain or twill weave).
Characteristics: Has brightly
colored stripes in the filling direction. Often black warp. The color effects are usually startling or bizarre.
Mostly produced in India. Name derived from the Bajadere dancing girl of India, dedicated from birth to a
dancing life. The Bayadere costume includes the striped garment, a flimsy scarf or shawl, jeweled
trousers, spangles, sequins, anklets.
Uses: Blouses, dresses, after 5 wear.
Beaver
Characteristics: Mostly found in Europe and America. Soft, silky, shiny, lending itself to textile use.
Uses: Fur coats, trimming fur and fabric garments.
Beaver cloth
Fiber: Wool. Also cotton and napped on both sides - double faced.
Weave: Twill and very heavily
napped, and furled.
Characteristics: Originally English. Made to simulate beaver fur. Thick, gives
excellent wear and very warm - resembles kersey. Length of nap varies with the cloth and its uses. Has a
luxurious look. Has the longest nap of all the napped fabrics and usually somewhat silky. Often light colored
fibers added to nap to increase shine.
Uses: Mostly used for warm coats. Cotton beaver is used
for caps, shoe linings, work cloths, Maritime clothes and sports clothes where work is required.
Bedford cord
Fiber: Wool or worsted but worsted is more popular. Also made in cotton, silk and rayon.
Weave:
Lengthwise rib. Sometimes the ribs are emphasized by stuffing.
Characteristics: Both Bedford,
England and New Bedford, Mass. claim the name. Very pronounced rib. Very firm construction. Takes much
hard wear. Has various qualities and weights.
Uses: Suiting, coatings, riding breeches, uniforms
and upholstery.
Bengaline
Fiber: Silk, wool, rayon, synthetics, cotton.
Weave: Crosswise rib, warp faced.
Characteristics: A corded fabric resembling poplin but with heavier cords; it may be silk or rayon
with worsted cords First made of silk in Bengal, India. Ribs are round and raised. Often has wool or cotton
drilling in the ribs which doesn't show. Difficult to make bound buttonholes in it. Has a tendency to slip at the
seams if too tightly fitted. Grosgrain and Petersham is bengaline cut to ribbon widths. The cloth is usually
40" wide.
Uses: Coats, suits, millinery, trims, bouffant dresses with a tailored look, mourning cloth,
draperies. Cotele - A French term for bengaline made from a silk or rayon warp and worsted filling which is
given a hard twist.
Birdseye
Fiber: In cotton and Linen or blend of rayon staple and cotton. Worsted.
Weave: Usually dobby
Characteristics: Smooth, clear finish. Has small diamond-shaped figures with a dot in the center of
each. Pattern suggests the eye of a bird. Very soft, light weight, and absorbent. woven with a loosely
twisted filling to increase absorbency. Launders very well. No starch is applied because the absorption
properties must be of the best. Material must be free from any foreign matter. It is also called "diaper cloth"
and is used for that purpose as well as very good toweling. Also "novelty" Birdseye effects used as
summer dress fabrics.
Uses: Fine quality suiting for men and women.
Blanket cloth
Fiber: Wool, worsted, cotton, blends, synthetics.
Weave: Plain or twill.
Characteristics:
Soft, raised finish, "nap" obtained by passing the fabric over a series of rollers covered with fine wire or
teasels. Heavily napped and fulled on both sides. Nap lose and may pill in laundering. Named in honor of
Thomas Blanket (Blanquette), a Flemish weaver who lived in Bristol, England in the XIV century, and was
the first to use this material for sleeping to keep warm.
Uses: Bed covering, overcoats, robes.
Blend
The combination of two or more types of staple fibers and/or colors in one yarn. Blends are sometimes so
intimate that it is difficult to distinguish the component fibers in either the yarn or the fabric. A highly
sophisticated textile art, blending today is creating new fabric types, performance characteristics, and
dyeing and finishing effects.
Bolivia
Fiber: Wool. Sometimes contains alpaca or mohair.
Weave: Twill- usually 3 up and 3 down. A pile
weave (cut) with a diagonal pattern.
Characteristics: Pile face which varies in depth. Soft and
has a velvety feel. Usually piece dyed. Usually has lines or ridges in the warp or in a diagonal direction on
one side. Comes in light, medium and heavy weights.
Uses: Cloaking and coatings and some suits.
Bombazine
Fiber: Usually has silk or rayon warp and worsted filling. Imitations are made in cotton.
Weave:
Plain or twill.
Characteristics: Very fine English fabric. Name comes from Latin "bombycinum"
which means a silk in texture. It is one of the oldest materials known and was originally all-silk.
Uses: Infants wear. When dyed black it is used in the mourning cloth trade.
Boucle
Bouclé:
Fiber: Wool, also in rayon, silk, cotton, linen, blends, hair fibers.
Weave: Any weave,
knit.
Characteristics: Yarn with loops, which produces a woven or knitted fabric with rough
appearance. A drawn out or ringed, looped yarn is used to give it a kinky appearance at intervals. Made in a
variety of weights. Boucle yarns are usually in both the filling and the warp. Fabrics are usually springy to
handle on account of the highly twisted yarns used to achieve the boucle effect. Often ravels easily.
Uses: Coats, suits, dresses, sportswear.
From the French for "buckled" or "ringed".
Broadcloth
Fiber: Cotton and silk, and rayon. Very different than wool broadcloth.
Weave: Plain weave and in
most cotton broadcloths made with a very fine crosswise rib weave.
Characteristics: Originally
indicated a cloth woven on a wide loom. Very closely woven and in cotton, made from either carded or
combed yarns. The filling is heavier and has less twist. It is finer than poplin when made with a crosswise
rib and it is lustrous and soft with a good texture. Thread count ranges from high quality 144 x 6 count
down to 80 x 60. Has a smooth finish. May be bleached, dyed, or printed; also is often mercerized. Wears
very well. If not of a high quality or treated it wrinkles very badly. Finest quality made from Egyptian or
combed pima cotton - also sea island.
Uses: Shirts, dresses, particularly the tailored type in plain
colors, blouses, summer wear of all kinds.
Brocade
Fiber: Silk, rayon, cotton, and all others.
Weave: Jacquard and dobby.
Characteristics:
Rich, heavy, elaborate design effect. Sometimes with colored or metallic threads making the design usually
against a satin weave background. This makes the figures stand out. the figures in brocade are rather
loose, while in damask the figure threads are actually bound into the material. The pattern may be satin on a
twill ground or twill on a satin ground. Often reversible. The motifs may be of flowers, foliage, scrollwork,
pastoral scenes, or other designs. The price range is wide. Generally reputed to have been developed from
the Latin name "brocade" which means to figure.
Uses: All types of evening wear, church
vestments, interior furnishings, and state robes.
Brocatelle
Fiber: Silk, rayon, cotton, and synthetics.
Weave: Jacquard - double or backed cloth.
Characteristics: Originally supposed to be an imitation of Italian tooled leather - satin or twill pattern
on plain or satin ground. It is recognized by a smooth raised figure of warp-effect, usually in a satin weave
construction, on a filling effect background. True brocatelle is a double weave made of silk and linen warp
and a silk and linen filling. Present-day materials may have changed from the 13th and 14th Century fabrics,
but they still have the embossed figure in the tight, compact woven warp-effect. While brocatelle is
sometimes classed as a flat fabric, it shows patterns which stand out in "high relief" in a sort of blistered
effect.
Uses: Draperies, furniture, coverings and general decorating purposes as well as all kinds
of after 5 wear.
Buckram
Fiber: Cotton, some in linen, synthetics.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Cheap, low-
textured, loose weave, very heavily sized and stiff. Also, 2 fabrics are glued together; one is open weave
and the other much finer. Some is also made in linen in a single fabric. Also called crinoline book muslin or
book binding. Softens with heat. Can be shaped while warm.
Uses: Used for interlinings and all
kinds of stiffening in clothes, book binding, and for millinery (because it can be moistened and shaped).
Used to give stiffness to leather garments not as stiff and often colored is called "tarlatan".
From Bukhara a city in west Asia from whence the cloth was exported.
Burlap
Burlap (or Jute) is used in textiles for interiors, especially for wall hangings and a group of bright,
homespun-effect draperies and wall coverings. Natural jute has a yellow to brown or gray color, with a
silky luster. It consists of bundles of fiber held together by gummy substances that are pertinacious in
character. It is difficult to bleach completely, so many fabrics are bright, dark, or natural brown in color. Jute
reacts to chemicals in the same way as do cotton and flax. It has a good resistance to micro-organisms
and insects. Moisture increases the speed of deterioration but dry jute will last for a very long time. Jute
works well for bagging, because it does not extend and is somewhat rough and coarse. This tends to keep
stacks of bags in position and resist slippage. It is widely used in the manufacture of linoleum and carpets
for backing or base fabric.
Burn-out
A process whereby a chemical (often Sulfuric acid, mixed into a print paste) is printed on the fabric, instead
of color. The chemical eats away the fiber and creates a hole in the fabric in the printed design. Can be
used to simulate eyelet effects the fabric is then over-printed with a simulated embroidery stitch. Burn-out
effects can also be created on velvets made of blended fibers, in which the ground fabric is of one fiber
like polyester, and the pile may be of a cellulose fiber like rayon or acetate. In this case, when the chemical
is printed, it destroys the pile in those areas where the chemical comes in contact with the fabric, but
leaves the ground fabric untouched.
Butcher linen
It was originally made with linen but is now created with cotton or manufactured fibers. It launders well,
sheds dirt, and is exceptionally durable.
Bias plaid
See Argyle.
C
Calenderin
A process for finishing fabrics in which effects such as high luster, glazing, embossing, and moiré are
produced.
Calico
A printed cotton cloth superior to percale. Pattern is printed on one side by discharge or resist printing. It is
not always fast in color. Sized for crispness but washes out and requires starch each time. Designs are
often geometric in shape, but originally elaborate designs of birds, trees, and flowers. Inexpensive. Similar
to percale. Very little on the market to-day, but the designs are still in use on other fabrics and sold as
"calico print".
Uses: Housedresses, aprons, patchwork quilts. Calicoes were first imported into
Europe from India during the Renaissance and have since been manufactured in both Europe and the United
States. Calico was especially popular in America during the 19th century.
N.B. European definition is very different …
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Plain - usually a low count.
Characteristics: Originated in Calicut,
India, and is one of the oldest cottons. Rather coarse and light in weight, generally bleached or white.
Named after Culicut a city on the coast of Malabar, India.
Cambric
Fiber: Cotton, also linen.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: Soft, closely woven, light. Either
bleached or piece dyed. Highly mercerized, lint free. Calendered on the right side with a slight gloss. Lower
qualities have a smooth bright finish. Similar to batiste but is stiffer and fewer slubs. Launders very well.
Has good body, sews and finishes well. Originally made in Cambria, France of linen and used for Church
embroidery and table linens.
Uses: Handkerchiefs, underwear, slips, nightgowns, children's
dresses, aprons, shirts and blouses.
Cambrai, a city in north France.
Camel hair
Fiber: Hair from the camel. Sometimes blended with wool or imitated in wool.
Weave: Twill or plain.
Characteristics: Bactrian Species of the Chinese and Mongolian deserts. Under hair is best. It is
light weight, lustrous and soft. It ranges from a light tan to a brownish-black color. Usually left its natural
tones but can be dyed-usually navy and some red. It has quite a long nap and is warm. Better grades are
expensive. Sometimes blended with wool to reduce the cost and increase the wear. All wool camel hair is
not as lustrous and is spongy. Can have either a rich nap or a flat finish. Wears fairly well, particularly if
blended.
Uses: Coats, women's suits, sports coats, sweaters, some blankets and put in some
very expensive oriental rugs. It is also used in (fine) over coating, top coating, hosiery and transmission
belts which will withstand dampness and moisture.
Camocas
Was popular in the 14th and 15th centuries. It was a very beautiful fabric which was often stripped with
gold or silver. It had a satin base and was diapered like fine linen.
Candlewick fabric
Fiber: Cotton - also wool.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: An unbleached muslin bed
sheeting (also called Kraft muslin) used as a base fabric on which a chenille effect is formed by application
of candlewick (heavy plied yarn) loops, which are then cut to give the fuzzy effect and cut yarn
appearance of true chenille yarn. May be uncut also. (True chenille is a cotton, wool, silk, or rayon yarn
which has a pile protruding all around at slight angles and stimulates a caterpillar. Chenille is the French
word for caterpillar).
Uses: Bedspreads, drapes, housecoats, beach wear.
Canton flannel
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Four harness warp-faced twill weave. Characteristics The filling yarn is a
very loosely twisted and soft and later brushed to produced a soft nap on the back, the warp is medium in
size. The face is a twill. Heavy, warm, strong and absorbent. Named for Canton, China where it was first
made. Comes bleached, unbleached, dyed, and some is printed.
Uses: Interlinings, sleeping
garments, linings, coverings, work gloves.
Canvas
Fiber: Linen, cotton.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: Mostly rugged, heavy material made
from plied yarns. Has body and strength. It is usually manufactured in the gray state but some is dyed for
different uses. Almost the same as duck in heavier weights. Has an even weave. Ada or Java canvas
used for yarn, needlework, almost like mesh.
Uses: Tents, sails, mail bags, sacks, covers, etc.
Finer types used for embroidery and paintings. Hair canvas is an interfacing material in various weights.
Card
An implement used in disentangling and combing out fibers of wool, flax etc., preparatory to spinning.
Latin carduus thistle.
Carding
The process of preparing fibers, such as wool, cotton, etc., for spinning.
Latin carduus thistle.
Casha
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: Originally made of Vicuna. Today the Vicuna is considered
an endangered species so Kasha is made from either a blend of cashmere and wool or a very fine wool.
Uses: Clothing.
Cashmere
Fiber: From the Kashmir goat, a hair fiber found in Kashmir India, Tibet, Iran, Iraq, China, Persia, Turkestan
and Outer Mongolia. Often mixed with wool or synthetics to cut costs and improve the wear.
Weave: All weaves but mostly plain or twill. All knits.
Characteristics: Fiber is cylindrical,
soft and silken. More like wool than any other hair fiber. Has a very soft silky finish; very light in weight.
Doesn't stand up to hard wear on account of extremely soft downy finish. Natural fiber is white, black,
brown or gray but can be died a variety of shades. Comes in different weights.
Uses: The textile
industry is only interested in the soft fibers. Knitted into sweaters for men and women, also women's
dresses. Often combed and sold in tops and noils.
Cavalry twill
Fiber: Woolen or worsted.
Weave: 63 twill weave - right hand twill.
Characteristics:
Pronounced narrow and wide wale, in groups of 2. Strong rugged cloth. Quite elastic. Similar to U.S.
elastique but elastique is smoother in rib, feel and effect, - (made of worsted yarn and a firmer weave).
Also resembles tricotine but tricotine is much finer with a double diagonal.
Uses: Riding habits, ski
wear, sportswear, and uniform fabrics.
Cellulose
The basic substance for the three cellulosic fibers (acetate, rayon, and triacetate) is cellulose, which
comes from purified wood pulp.
Cendal
Fiber: silk, made in various qualities
Weave: usually plain with a fine cross rib.
Characteristics: Material resembling taffeta. Widely used in the Middle Ages, but rarely found
except for as lining by the 17th century.
Challis
Fiber: Wool-also made in cotton, hair fiber, rayon, and a silk warp and worsted filling.
Weave:
Plain
Characteristics: Anglo-Indian word "Shallee" meaning soft. Soft, very lightweight. May be
dyed or printed with a delicate floral pattern, paisleys, or geometric patterns and faint designs. Often
washable. Originated in Norwich England in 1832.
Uses: Women's and children's dresses and
blouses, comforters, kimonos, neckties, and sportswear. In slacks or shorts it would have to be lined.
Chalys
Fiber: Wool-also made in cotton, hair fiber, rayon, and a silk warp and worsted filling.
Weave:
Plain
Characteristics: Anglo-Indian word "Shallee" meaning soft. Soft, very lightweight. May be
dyed or printed with a delicate floral pattern, paisleys, or geometric patterns and faint designs. Often
washable. Originated in Norwich England in 1832.
Uses: Women's and children's dresses and
blouses, comforters, kimonos, neckties, and sportswear. In slacks or shorts it would have to be lined.
Chambray
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Plain weave or dobby designs on a plain-weave ground. A fine variety of
gingham, commonly plain, but with the warp and weft of different colors.
Characteristics: Made
with a dyed warp and a white or unbleached filling. Both carded and combed yarns used. Has a white
selvedge. Some woven with alternating white and colored warp. "Faded" look. Has very soft coloring.
Some made with stripes, checks or embroidered. Smooth, strong, closely woven, soft and has a slight
luster. Wears very well, easy to sew, and launders well. If not crease resistant, it wrinkles easily.
Originated in Cobrai, France, where it was first made for sunbonnets.
Uses: Children's wear,
dresses, shirts and blouses, aprons, all kinds of sportswear.
A fine variety of gingham, commonly plain, but with the warp and weft of different colors.
From Cambric
Chamois cloth
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Plain Characteristics Fabric is napped, sheared, and dyed to simulate
chamois leather. It is stiffer than kasha and thicker, softer and more durable than flannelette. Must be
designated as "cotton chamois-color cloth".
Uses: Dusters, interlining, storage bags for articles to
prevent scratching.
Chamoisette
Fiber: Cotton, also rayon and nylon.
Weave: Knitted, double knit construction.
Characteristics: A fine, firmly knit fabric. Has a very short soft nap. Wears well. Nylon chamoisette
is more often called "glove silk".
Uses: Gloves.
Charmeuse
Fiber:
Weave: Satin
Characteristics: Originated as a French lightweight silk that was
recognized for its supreme luster and drapability. Today it is made out of rayon, cotton and manufactured
fibers and has a dull back. It is found in a variety of solids and prints.
Uses: Pajamas, dresses, and
draping gowns.
Charvet
Fiber:
Weave: Herringbone
Characteristics:
Uses: It is a soft, silky fiber with
high luster and a warp face.
It originated as a silk fiber but is now made of manufactured fibers.
Cheesecloth
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Originally used as a wrapping material for
pressing cheese. Loosely woven, thin, light in weight, open in construction, and soft. Carded yarns are
always used. It is also called gauze weave. When woven in 36" widths it is called tobacco cloth. When an
applied finish is added, it is called buckram, crinoline, or bunting.
Uses: In the gray cloth, it is used
for covering tobacco plants, tea bags and wiping cloths. Finished cloth is used for curtains, bandages, dust
cloths, cheap bunting, hat lining, surgical gauze, fly nets, food wrapping, e.g. meat and cheese, costumes
and basket tops.
Chenille
1. A tufty velvety cord or yarn, used in trimming furniture etc. 2. A fabric made from this.
Derivation of Chenille: from French; hairy caterpillar; from Latin canicula, diminutive of canis ‘dog’
Chenille fabric
Fiber: Cotton and any of the main textile fibers.
Weave: Mostly plain weave. Characteristics Warp
yarn of any major textile fiber. Filling of chenille yarns (has a pile protruding all around at right angles). The
word is French for caterpillar and fabric looks hairy. Do not confuse with tufted effects obtained without
the use of true Chenille filling.
Uses: Millinery, rugs, decorative fabrics, trimmings, upholstery.
Chevron
Broken twill or herringbone weave giving a chevron effect, creating a design of wide Vs across the width
of the fabric. Also known as Herringbone.
Chiffon
Fiber: Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: A light diaphanous
fabric of silk, nylon, etc Lightweight, sheer, transparent. Made with very fine, tightly twisted yarns. The
tightly twisted yarns could be either in the filling or the warp or both. It is very strong, despite filmy look.
Wears very well. It is very difficult to handle when sewing and it is best to baste the pieces over tissue to
make it easier. It has slightly bumpy look. It is best suited to shirring, draping, gathering, tucking, etc.,
because it is so limp. If made in a straight sheath style, it should be underlined with very firm fabric. e.g.
faille taffeta.
Uses: After 5 wear, blouses, scarves.
French from chiffe ‘rag’
Cheviot
Fiber: Wool originally and mostly made from wool from the Cheviot sheep but today also made of blends,
spun synthetics, crossbred and reused wools.
Weave: Twill (modern version sometimes plain).
Characteristics: Very rugged, harsh, uneven surface that does not hold a crease and sags with
wear. Resembles serge but is much more rugged and coarse and will not shine because of the rough
surface. Often sold as a homespun but true homespun has a plain weave and very heavy. Also sold as a
tweed.
Uses: Coats, suits, sportswear, sport's coats.
China silk
Fiber: Silk.
Weave: Originally hand woven in China of silk from the Bonabyx mori. Very soft and
extremely lightweight but fairly strong. Irregularities of threads caused by the extreme lightness and
softness are characteristic of the fabric.
Uses: Mostly for linings and under linings, and could be
used for blouses.
Chinchilla
Fiber: Cotton or wool, and some manmade and synthetics.
Weave: Sateen or twill construction
with extra fillings for long floats.
Characteristics: Does not resemble true chinchilla fur. Has small
nubs on the surface of the fabric which are made by the chinchilla machine. It attacks the face and causes
the long floats to be worked into nubs and balls. Cotton warp is often used because it cannot show from
either side. Made in medium and heavy weights. Very warm and cozy fabrics. Takes its name from
Chinchilla Spain where it was invented.
Uses: In cotton, used for baby's blankets and bunting
Chino
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Twill (left hand)
Characteristics: Combined two-ply warp and filling.
Has a sheen that remains. Fabric was purchased in China (thus the name) by the U.S. Army for uniforms.
Originally used for army cloth in England many years before and dyed olive-drab. Fabric is mercerized and
sanforised. Washes and wears extremely well with a minimum of care.
Uses: Army uniforms,
summer suits and dresses, sportswear.
Chintz
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Has bright gay figures, large flower designs,
birds and other designs. Also comes in plain colors. Several types of glaze. The wax and starch glaze
produced by friction or glazing calendars will wash out. The resin glaze finish will not wash out and
withstand dry cleaning. Also comes semi-glazed. Unglazed chintz is called cretonne. Named from the Indian
word "Chint" meaning "broad, gaudily printed fabric".
Uses: Draperies, slipcovers, dresses,
sportswear.
Chite
Fiber: linen
Characteristics: Originally from Chitta (India), where the trend of painted linens was
started in the 17th and 18th centuries.
Cisele velvet
A velvet with a pattern formed by contrast in cut and uncut loops.
Coir
Fiber:
Weave:
Characteristics: This seed fiber is obtained from the husk of the coconut.
Uses: Brush-making, door mats, fish nets, cordage.
Coney
Characteristics: Wild rabbits have brownish or gray colors. Tame ones range in color from white
to black. Uses Coats and trimmings.
Cordoban leather
Characteristics: Goat skin, simply-tanned. The art of preparing this leather came from Cordoba
where the craftsmen who were allowed to use it for shoes in the Middle ages were called cordwainers.
Corduroy
Fiber: Cotton, rayon, and other textile fibers.
Weave: Filling Pile with both plain and twill back.
Characteristics: Made with an extra filling yarn. In the velvet family of fabrics. Has narrow medium
and wide Wales, also thick and thin or checkerboard patterns. Wales have different widths and depths.
Has to be cut all one way with pile running up. Most of it is washable and wears very well. Has a soft
luster.
Uses: Children's clothes of all kinds, dresses, jackets, skirts, suits, slacks, sportswear,
men's trousers, jackets, bedspreads, draperies, and upholstery.
Cotton
A natural vegetable fiber of great economic importance as a raw material for cloth. Its widespread use is
largely due to the ease with which its fibers are spun into yarns. Cotton's strength, absorbency, and
capacity to be washed and dyed also make it adaptable to a considerable variety of textile products. It is
one of the world's major textile fibers.
It is obtained from bushy plants. The immature flower bud,
called a square, blooms and develops into an oval fruit called a boll that splits open at maturity, revealing a
mass of long white hairs, called lint, that cover the numerous brown or black seeds. There are four main
types of cotton: American Upland, Egyptian, Sea Island and Asiatic. The flowers from which these different
types of cotton are obtained vary in color and texture, thus providing each type of cotton with varying
characteristics. Cotton, in general, is very elastic. It can withstand high temperatures, has high wash ability
and is very susceptible to dyes.
Cotton brocade
Fiber: Cotton brocade often has the ground of cotton and the pattern of rayon and silk. Pattern is in low
relief.
Weave: Jacquard and dobby
Characteristics: Rich, heavy, elaborate design effect.
Sometimes with colored or metallic threads making the design usually against a satin weave background.
This makes the figures stand out. the figures in brocade are rather loose, while in damask the figure
threads are actually bound into the material. The pattern may be satin on a twill ground or twill on a satin
ground. Often reversible. The motifs may be of flowers, foliage, scrollwork, pastoral scenes, or other
designs. The price range is wide. Generally reputed to have been developed from the Latin name "brocade"
which means to figure.
Uses: All types of evening wear, church vestments, and interior furnishings.
Cotton canvas
Fiber: Cotton. Originally made in linen.
Weave: Plain, but also crosswise rib.
Characteristics: Also called duck. Name originated in 18th Century when canvas sails from Britain
bare the trademark symbol - a duck. Very closely woven and heavy. it is the most durable fabric made.
There are many kinds of duck but the heavier weighs are called canvas. It may be unbleached, white, dyed,
printed or painted. Washable, many are water-proof and wind proof. Made in various weights.
Uses: Utility clothing in lighter weights, such as trousers, jackets, aprons. Also for awnings, sails,
slipcovers, draperies, sportswear, tents, and many industrial uses.
Coutil
Coutil (or Coutille) is a tightly woven twill cloth with a herringbone pattern. It looks sleek with a smooth
finish. It has been created specifically for making corsets. It is woven tightly to inhibit penetration of
bones/stays and resist to stretching. Coutil can be made in plain, satin or brocade and generally colored
black, white or flesh.
Coutil can be soft, stiff or medium and this characteristic is determined by the starch finishing.
This dense, strong material is also used in the manufacture of medical corsets, i.e. Lumbo-Sacral and
French "Drill"
Covert
Fiber: Woolen or worsted, also cotton and spun rayon.
Weave: Twill
Characteristics:
Made with two shades of color e.g. (Medium and light brown). The warp is 2 ply (1 light; 1 dark) and filling 1
ply (dark or same as warp). Very rugged and closely woven. Has a mottled or speckled effect. First used
as a hunting fabric. Has a clear finish and hard texture. Wears exceptionally well and has a smart
appearance. Light in weight.
Uses: For over coating for both men and women. It is also made
waterproof and used a great deal in rain water.
Crash
Fiber: Linen.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: It is very rugged and substantial in feel. Come
in white or natural shades or could be dyed, printed, striped, or checked. The yarn is strong, irregular in
diameter but smooth. Has a fairly good texture.
Uses: Toweling, suitings, dresses, coats.
Crepe
Crêpe:
Fiber: Woolen, worsted cotton, silk, man-made synthetics.
Weave: Mostly plain, but
various weaves.
Characteristics: A fine often gauzelike fabric with a wrinkled surface. Has a
crinkled, puckered surface or soft mossy finish. Comes in different weights and degrees of sheerness. Dull
with a harsh dry feel. Woolen Crêpes are softer than worsted. If it is fine, it drapes well. Has very good
wearing qualities. Has a very slimming effect.
Uses: Depending on weight, it is used for dresses
of all types, including long dinner dresses, suits, and coats.
French via Old French crespe ‘curled’ from Latin crispus
Crepe de chine
Silk warp and Crêpe twist silk filling 25 x 22. More ends than picks per inch. Has a soft hand and
considerable luster. Made of raw silk or rayon. It is easy to manipulate and handle. Very long wearing. Most
of it launders well. It is fairly sheer. Could be piece dyed or printed. Has a slight rippled texture. Heavy
Crêpe de chine is called "Canton Crêpe" which is slightly ribbed and now mostly made in rayon.
Crepe back satin
Satin weave on the face and a Crêpe effect on the back obtained with twisted Crêpe yarns in the filling - 2
or 3 times as many ends as picks per inch. It is a soft fabric which is reversible. It is usually piece dyed.
Very interesting effects can be obtained in a garment by using both sides, in different parts. e.g. the Crêpe
side for the body and trim or binding with the satin part up.
Uses: Dresses, blouses, linings, after 5
wear.
Crepon
Crêpe effect appears in direction of the warp and achieved by alternate S and Z, or slack, tension, or
different degrees of twist. Originally a wool Crêpe but now made of silk and rayon. It is much stouter and
more rugged than the average Crêpe. Has a wavy texture with the "waves" running in a lengthwise
direction. Mostly used for prints.
Uses: Dresses and ensembles.
Crettone
Fiber: Cotton, linen, rayon.
Weave: Plain or twill.
Characteristics: Finished in widths from
30 to 50 inches. Quality and price vary a great deal. The warp counts are finer than the filling counts which
are spun rather loose. Strong substantial and gives good wear. Printed cretonne often has very bright
colors and patterns. The fabric has no luster (when glazed, it is called chintz). Some are warp printed and
if they are, they are usually completely reversible. Designs run from the conservative to very wild and often
completely cover the surface.
Uses: Bedspreads, chairs, draperies, pillows, slipcovers,
coverings of all kinds, beach wear, sportswear.
Crewel
Chain stitch embroidery made with a fine, loosely twisted, two-ply worsted yarn on a plain weave fabric.
Done by hand, for the most part, in the Kashmir Province of India and in England.
Crinoline
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: It is a very loosely woven fiber with high rigidity. It is
smooth, stiff, and has excellent strength. It comes in a variety of shades from white to black.
Uses: Stiffening, making interlining for hat shapes.
Crocking
Rubbing off of color from woven or printed fabrics.
D
Damask
Fiber: Linen, silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics, wool, worsteds.
Weave: Figured on Jacquard loom.
Characteristics: Originally made of silk, that came to us from China via Damascus. In the XIII
Century, Marco Polo gave an interesting tale about it. It is one of the oldest and most popular cloths to be
found today. Very elaborate designs are possible. Cloth is beetled, calendared and the better qualities are
gross-bleached. Very durable. reversible fabric. Sheds dirt. The firmer the texture, the better the quality.
Launders well and holds a high luster - particularly in linen. - Price range varies a great deal. There are two
types of damask table cloths: 1) Single damask table cloths: construction. Thread count is usually around
200. 2) Double damask has an 8 shaft satin construction with usually twice as many filling yarns as warp
yarns. This gives a much greater distinctness to the pattern. Thread count ranges from 165 to 400.- The
quality of both depends on the yarn used and the thread count. - If the same quality and thread count are
used, single is better than double because the shorter floats are more serviceable and the yarns hold more
firmly. Double damask with less than 180 thread count is no good for home use.
Degummed silk
By boiling the silk in hot water, the gum (sericin) is removed from the yarn/fabric. By doing this, the luster of
the silk is enhanced. It is very lightweight.
Denim
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Twill - right hand - may be L2/1 or L3/1.
Characteristics: Originally
had dark blue, brown or dark gray warp with a white or gray filling giving a mottled look and used only for
work clothes. now woven in bright and pastel colors with stripes as well as plain. Long wearing, it resists
snags and tears. Comes in heavy and lighter weights.
Uses: Work clothes, overalls, caps,
uniforms, bedspreads, slipcovers, draperies, upholstery, sportswear, of all kinds, dresses and has even
been used for evening wear.
From serge de Nim ‘serge of Nîmes’, a city in S. France
Dimity
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Plain weave with a crosswise or lengthwise spaced rib or crossbar effect.
Characteristics: A thin sheer with corded spaced stripes that could be single, double or triple
grouping. Made of combed yarn and is 36" wide. Has a crisp texture which remains fairly well after
washing. Resembles lawn in the white state. It is easy to sew and manipulate and launders well. Creases
unless crease-resistant. May be bleached, dyed, or printed and often printed with a small rose-bud design.
It is mercerized and has a soft luster.
Uses: Children's dresses, women's dresses, and blouses,
infant's wear, collar and cuff sets, bassinets, bedspreads, curtains, underwear. Has a very young look.
Uncertain, possibly from the greek word dismitos meaning double thread, or after the city of Damieta
in northern Egypt.
Direct print
Pattern and ground color printed on fabric in the colors desired, as opposed to extract printing done on a
dyed cloth. Cretonne is an example of a direct print
Dobby fabric
With geometric figures woven in a set pattern. Similar to, but more limited, more quickly woven, and cheaper
than jacquards, which require elaborate procedures to form patterns.
Dobby loom
A type of loom on which small, geometric figures can be woven in as a regular pattern. Originally this type
of loom needed a dobby boy who sat on the top of the loom and drew up warp threads to term a
pattern. Now the weaving is done entirely by machine. This loom differs from a plain loom in that it may have
up to thirty-two harnesses and a pattern chain and it’s expensive weaving.
Doeskin
Fiber: Wool and also rayon.
Weave: A 5 or 8 harness satin weave. Rayon: Twill weave and
napped on one side, or a small satin-weave.
Characteristics: Very smooth, lustrous surface made
with a slight short nap very close and compact weave to look like fine leather. Weave not visible because
of napping. Very high quality wool used. Needs care in handling. Medium weight.
Uses: Women's
suits and coats, and also in a lighter weight for dresses. Sportswear and riding habits for both men and
women. Trousers and waistcoats for men.
Domett flannel
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Plain and twill
Characteristics: Also spelled domet. Generally made
in white. Has a longer nap than on flannelette. Soft filling yarns of medium or light weight are used to obtain
the nap. The term domett is interchangeable with "outing flannel" but it is only made in a plain weave. Both
are soft and fleecy and won't irritate the skin. Any sizing or starching must be removed before using.
Outing flannel is also piece-dyed and some printed and produced in a spun rayon also.
Uses:
Mostly used for infants wear, interlinings, polished cloths.
Donegal
Fiber: Wool - also in rayons and cottons.
Weave: Mostly plain but some in twill.
Characteristics: Originally a homespun woven by the peasants in Donegal, Ireland. A rough and
ready fabric that stands much hard wear. Yarns are coarse with thick slubs and colored nubs. Now made
in other places as well - particularly England.
Uses: Coats, heavy suits, sportswear. Has a
tailored, sporty look.
Dotted swiss
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Plain weave for ground with a swivel, lappet or flocked dot.
Characteristics: Dots could be a single color or multicolored. Placed regularly or irregularly on a
semi-sheer usually crisp fabric which may or may not be permanent. First made on hand looms in
Switzerland and some still is. It is made in 32" widths. The lappet is the most permanent. When hand woven
with a swivel attachment the dots are tied in by hand on the back of the cloth. The ground fabric is usually a
Voilé or a lawn.
Uses: Children's and women's summer dresses and blouses, aprons, curtains,
bedspreads. It is a young looking fabric.
Double-faced satin
Yarn woven with two warps and one filling, to simulate a double satin construction. Has satin on both
sides. Cotton filling is often used in cheaper qualities.
Doubleknit
Fiber: Cotton, wool, worsted, silk, rayon, and synthetics
Weave: Circular or flat-needle bar type
Characteristics: A two faced cloth, either face may be utilized as the right side. The fabric
originated in Milan and Florence. Can be stabilized for shrinkage control and dry cleans satisfactorily.
Doupion
Silk yarns made from the cocoon of two ilk worms that have nested together. In spinning, the double strand
is not separated so the yarn is uneven and irregular with a large diameter in places. Fabric is of silk made in
a plain weave. The fabric is very irregular and shows many slubs - seems to be made in a hit and miss
manner. It is imitated in rayon and some synthetics, and one such fabric is called "Cupioni". Dupion yarns
also used in shantung, pongee. Tailors very well.
Douppioni
Silk yarns made from the cocoon of two silk worms that have nested together. In spinning, the double
strand is not separated so the yarn is uneven and irregular with a large diameter in places. Fabric is of silk
made in a plain weave. The fabric is very irregular and shows many slubs - seems to be made in a hit and
miss manner. It is imitated in rayon and some synthetics, and one such fabric is called "Cupioni". Dupion
yarns also used in shantung, pongee. Tailors very well.
Drill
Fiber: Cotton or Linen.
Weave: Twill. Left-hand twill. From top left to lower right. L2/1 or L3/1.
Characteristics: a coarse twilled cotton or linen fabric. Closer, flatter Wales that ganardine.
Medium weight and course yarns are used. Also made in some other weights. Some left in the gray but can
be bleached or dyed. When dyed a khaki color it is known by that name.
Uses: Uniforms, work
clothes, slip covers, sportswear, and many industrial uses.
earlier drilling via German Drillich from Latin trilix -licis, from tri- ‘three’ + licium ‘thread’
Duchesse
Weave: Satin.
Characteristics: This form of satin has a wonderful luster and a smooth
feel. Its thread count is very high. An 8-12 shaft satin. Very fine yarns are used, particularly in the warp
with more ends/inch than picks. The material is strong, has a high luster, and texture, and it is firm. Usually
91.5cm (36") wide. Characterized by grainy twill on back.
Uses: Women's wear.
Duvetyn(e)
Fiber: Good quality wool. If made in cotton, is usually called suede cloth.
Weave: Satin, 7 or 8
shaft.
Characteristics: Close weave, brushed, singed, and sheared to conceal the weave. Has a
smooth plush appearance resembling a compact velvet. Similar to wool broadcloth but heavier and thicker.
Has a good draping quality, soft and wears well if looked after. Spots easily and care must be taken when
handling it. Back is often slightly napped also. Name derived from the French word "duvet" meaning "down".
Uses: Women's coats, suits, and dresses, depending on the weight. Used a great deal in the
millinery trade.
Dyeing
The coloring of greige (gray) goods or fibers with either natural or synthetic dyes. This may be done in
many different ways depending on the type of fabric (or fiber), the type of dye and the desired result Some
of the more common methods are:
Continuous Dyeing Fabric is continuously dyed. Dye lots may run to 30.000 yards/color.
Jet Dyeing Used for dyeing Polyester. Pressure kettles are used to reach extremely high
temperatures and force the dye into the fiber.
Milliken Dyeing Developed by Milliken & Company for continuous pattern dyeing.
Piece Dyeing Fabric is passed through the dye solution for a specified length of time.
Printing A term referring to methods of applying designs to greige goods. Some types of printing
are roller printing, screen printing, and handblocked printing.
Solution Dyeing A solution of dye is added to the liquid synthetic before spinning it into a yarn.
Vat Dyeing An insoluble dye that has been made soluble is put on the fiber and then oxidized to
the original insoluble form. Average dye lot 700 yards.
Yarn Dyeing Yarn is dyed before it is woven into fabric.
Cationic Dyeing A dye technique that allows certain fibers (like nylon, or polyester)to take deep
and brilliant colors. When catonic fiber is fixed with conventional fiber, various multicolors and cross-dye
effects can be achieved from a single dye bath.
Middle English dien
E
Elastomer
Characteristics: It is a synthetic rubber that can be stretched to at least three times its original
length. Once the exerted pull force is released, this fiber returns to its original length.
Eolienne
Characteristics: its name comes from the term Eolus, which is Greek for God of Winds. This airy
fiber has a low thread count and is very delicate. It is lightweight and is very lustrous.
Eponge
Fiber: Wool, also rayon and silk.
Weave: any weave - usually a novelty - plain warp, novelty filling
or reverse.
Characteristics: Derived from the French term eponge for "spongy". Very soft and
sponge-like in a variety of novelty effects with loose weave of about 20 x 20. Also known as ratine in
cotton. Rayon and silk is soft, loose, and spongy, something like terry cloth. Does not have surface loops.
Many stores now call eponge "boucle".
Uses: Suits, dresses, coats, sportswear, and summer
suits.
Eskimo cloth
Weave: Satin or Twill
Characteristics: It is an over-coating with a thick nap. It is usually
dyed so as to create wide stripes.
Uses: Over-coating.
Etamine
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: It was originally made of wool, cotton or linen and used for
sifting. It is now a worsted fabric with a very short nap and light in weight.
Uses: Clothing.
F
Faconne
Fiber: Silk or rayon.
Weave: Figured weave or "burnt-out" finish.
Characteristics:
Faconne in French, means fancy weave. Has small designs all over the fabric. Fairly light in weight, and
could be slightly Crêped. Background is much more sheer than the designs, therefore the designs seem to
stand out. Very effective when worn over a different color. Drapes, handle, and wears well.
Uses: Dresses, blouses, scarves, after 5, dressy afternoon and bridal wear.
Faconne velvet
Patterned velvet made by burnt-out print process. The design is of velvet with background plain.
Faille
Fiber: Silk, rayon.
Weave: Crosswise rib.
Characteristics: A soft transversely ribbed silk
or rayon fabric. Has a definite crosswise rib effect. Very soft material that drapes well. Finer than
grosgrain but in that family - ribs are also flatter than in grosgrain. Some belongs to the Crêpe family. It is
rather difficult to launder. Will give good wear if handled properly. Has a lustrous finish.
Uses:
Dresses, blouses, soft evening purses, some dressy coats.
French
Faille taffeta
Made with a crosswise rib weave. Has a distinct rib effect and is usually quite heavy and firm.
Felt
Fiber: Wool, reprocessed wool, reused wool, scrap fiber, can be mixed with other fibers, cotton, rayon.
Weave: Not woven but felted.
Characteristics: A very compact fabric in various weights
and thicknesses. Has grain so can be cut any way. Needs no hemming or finishing, because it does not
fray.
Uses: Many industrial uses, such as: piano hammers and in the printing industry. Many
novelties, such as: pennants, slippers, lining of many kinds, insoles, and toys. Hats and felt skirts.
Fiber
Any tough substance, natural or man-made, composed of thread-like tissue capable of being made into
yarn.
Fiber base
Most man-made fibers are formed by forcing a syrupy substance (about the consistency of honey) through
the tiny holes of a device called a spinneret
Fiberglass
Fibers and yarns produced from glass and woven into flexible fabrics. Noted for its fireproof qualities.
Fill
The threads running widthwise across a piece of fabric.
Finished goods
Fabric that has been processed by dyeing, printing, applying of special resins and finishes, and is ready for
market.
Finishing
The process of dyeing, printing, etc. of greige goods.
Flannel
Fiber: Wool, worsted, cotton, rayon. 1 a kind of woven woolen fabric, usu. without a nap. b (in pl.) flannel
garments, esp. trousers. 2 Brit. a small usu. toweling cloth, used for washing oneself.
perhaps from Welsh gwlanen, from gwl³n ‘wool’
Flannelette
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Plain and twill.
Characteristics: A napped cotton fabric imitating
flannel. A heavy, soft material with a napped finish, usually only on one side. In cheaper qualities the nap
comes off. Launders well, easy to manipulate and is warm to wear. There are many types on the market. It
may be bleached, dyed, printed, or woven in colored stripes.
Uses: Infants and children's wear,
men's, women's and children's sleeping wear, pocket linings, quilts, shirtings.
Flat crepe
Also called French Crêpe or Lingerie Crêpe but not exactly the same. It is the flattest of all the Crêpes with
only a very slight pebbled or Crêpe effect hard twist alternating 25 x 22 in filling; warp has ordinary twist. It
is very soft and pliable, which makes it good for draping. It is very light weight - 2 times as many ends as
picks. It may be white, colored, or printed. Most of it launders well.
Uses: Accessories, blouses,
dress goods, negligees, pajamas and other pieces of lingerie and linings.
Flax
This fiber is taken from the stalk of the Linum usitaatissimum plant. It is a long, smooth fiber and is cylindrical
in shape. its length varies from 6 to 40 inches but on average is between 15 and 25 inches. its color is
usually off-white or tan and due to its natural wax content, flax has excellent luster. It is considered to be
the strongest of the vegetable fibers and is highly absorbent, allowing moisture to evaporate with speed. It
conducts heat well and can be readily boiled. It's wash ability is great, however, it has poor elasticity and
does not easily return to its original shape after creasing.
Uses: Apparel fabric. When processed
into fabric it is called linen. It is also used for tablecloths, napkins, doilies, twine, aprons, fishing tackle, and
nets.
Fleece
Fiber: Wool, specialty hair fibers, cotton.
Weave: Plain, twill, pile or knitted.
Characteristics: Has a deep, soft nap or pile, obtained by heavily napping with wire brushes or
with a pile weave. This provides air space giving good insulating properties without too much weight. The
interlacings are well covered by the nap. The nap wears out in time, but good quality cloth gives good
wear. Range from cheap to expensive clothes. Material is often cumbersome and bulky, therefore it may be
difficult to manipulate. Also, the name for the entire coat of wool taken from a sheep at shearing time.
Uses: Mostly used for coats for men, women, and children.
Flock
1. a lock or tuft of wool, cotton, etc. 2. a (also in pl.; often attrib.) material for quilting and stuffing made of
wool refuse or torn-up cloth (a flock pillow). b powdered wool or cloth.
Middle English via Old French floc from Latin floccus
Foulard
Fiber: Silk, rayon, very fine cotton, very fine worsted.
Weave: Twill, 2 up 2 down.
Characteristics: Very soft, light fabric. Noted for its soft finish and feel. It is usually printed with
small figures on a dark or light background. Similar to Surah and Tie Silk, but finer. Was originally imported
from India.
Uses: Dresses, robes, scarves, and neckwear of all kinds. First made for the
handkerchief trade.
Fox
Characteristics: color varies from black to red, silver, silver-gray and white.
Uses:
Scarves, muffs, jackets, coats, trimmings, also to provide softness in wool blends for textile industry.
Frise
Fiber: Rayon most popular, also mohair and silk and synthetics. The ground or backing yarns are usually
made of cotton. Sometimes jute or hemp are combined with the cotton.
Weave: Pile (looped).
Characteristics: Made usually with uncut loops in all-over pattern. It is sometimes patterned by
shearing the loops at different lengths. Some made with both cut and uncut loops in the form of a pattern.
Uses: Upholstery, also used widely as transportation fabric by railroads, buses, and airplanes.
Frise is also spelled Frieze but frieze really refers to a rough, fuzzy, rizzy, boardy woolen over coating
fabric which originated in Friesland Holland. Often used for over coating material for soldiers. Much
adulteration is given the cloth. Irish frieze is quite popular and more reliable and is called "cotha more".
Fustian
Fiber: cotton or cotton with linen or flax.
Weave: cross woven when a mix.
Characteristics: Was used for undergarments and linings. Originally made in Fustat near Cairo,
hence its name.
G
Gabardine
Fiber: Worsted cotton, rayon, or mixtures.
Weave: Steep twill (63 degrees).
Characteristics: A smooth durable twill-woven cloth esp. of worsted, spun rayon or cotton. Clear
finish, tightly woven, firm, durable, rather lustrous. Can be given a dull finish. Has single diagonal lines on
the face, raised twill. Wears extremely well. Also comes in various weights. Inclined to shine with wear.
Hard to press properly.
Uses: Men's and women's tailored suits, coats, raincoats, uniforms, and
men's shirts.
Old French gauvardine, perhaps from Middle High German wallevart ‘pilgrimage’
Gattar
Fiber:
Weave: Satin
Characteristics: It is made with a cotton filling and a silk warp. It is
only found in solid colors and is known for its elegant luster and excellent drapability.
Uses:
Elegant evening wraps.
Georgette
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: A thin silk or crêpe dress material. Usually done in silk but
can also be found in manufactured fibers. It is characterized by its crispness, body and outstanding
durability. It is sheer and has a dull face.
Named after Georgette de la Plante (c.. 1900), French dressmaker
Georgette crepe
Lightweight, heavy, sheer fabric. Has quite a bit of stiffness and body. gives excellent wear. Has a dull,
crinkled surface. Achieved by alternating S and Z yarns in a high twist in both warp and filling directions.
Georgette has a harder, duller, more crinkled feel and appearance than Crêpe de chine.
Uses:
After 5 wear and dressy afternoon and weddings, lingerie, scarves, etc. Same uses as Crêpe de chine.
Gingham
Fiber: Cotton, man-made, and synthetics.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: Yarn-dyed plain
weave cotton fabric, usually striped or checked. Medium or fine yarns of varying quality are used to obtain
the checks, plaids, stripes, and plain effects. The cloth is yarn dyed or printed. The warp and the filling are
usually balanced and if checks of two colors, usually same sequence in both the warp and the filling. It is
strong, substantial, and serviceable. It launders will but low textured, cheap fabric may shrink considerably
unless pre-shrunk. Has a soft, dull luster surface. Wrinkles unless wrinkle-resistant. Tissue or zephyr
ginghams are sheer being woven with finer yarns and a higher thread count.
Uses: Dresses,
blouses, for both women and children, trimmings, kerchiefs, aprons, beach wear, curtains, bedspreads,
pajamas.
From Malay ginggang Lit. striped.
Glazed
Cotton fabrics such as chintz or tarlatan treated with starch, glue, paraffin, or shellac and run through a hot
friction roller to give a high polish. These types are not durable in washing. Newer, more durable methods
use synthetic resins that withstand laundering.
Glove silk
Fiber: Silk, rayon, synthetics.
Weave: Knit - two bar doubleknit tricot.
Characteristics:
Made on a warp knitted frame. Very finely knit but very strong. Now called nylon Simplex.
Uses:
Gloves and underwear. Similar to chamoisette (cotton).
Granada
Fiber:
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: Its name is derived from the Latin word Granum,
which refers to the grainy quality of the textile. This granular quality is achieved by a broken twill weave. It
is made of a cotton warp and alpaca or mohair filling. This fiber is exceptionally fine.
Greige
French for fabrics in unbleached, undyed state before finishing.
Grenadine
Fiber:
Weave: Leno
Characteristics: This fine fiber originated in Italy. It can be made in
various fibers such as cotton, wool, silk or manufactured fibers. It is well know for its stiffness.
Uses: Women's clothing.
Grosgrain
Heavy, corded, silk or rayon ribbon or fabric. Plain weave with horizontal ribs.
French: gros grain large grain.
Guanaco
Guanaco, common name for a species of wild South American ruminant (cud-chewing mammal). The
closely related alpaca and llama are completely domesticated; the related vicuna is also found in South
America. The guanaco lives on mountains and plains in Argentina, Bolivia, Chile, Peru, and Paraguay.
Produces a fleece of the most glorious natural honey beige color. Very soft.
Guipure lace
A heavy stiff open lace. Design stands in relief. There is no background or net, the patterned areas are
joined by threads known as bridges.
From old French word guiper meaning to cover a cord with silk or wool.
H
Habutai
Fiber: Silk.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: Very light weight and soft. A little heavier than
China Silk, but similar. Sold by weight measure known "momme" (1 momme = 3.75 g). Made from waste silk
that can be twisted. It is piece dyed or printed and sized. Has many defects in the cloth which has a "shot-
about" appearance but this does not effect the cloth. Comes from Japan - originally woven in the gum on
Japanese hand looms. Lighter than shantung but heavier than silk.
Uses: Dresses, coats, shirting,
lamp shades, lingerie, curtains.
Hare
Rabbits and Hares, common name for certain small mammals of the Leporidae family. Although the names
"rabbit" and "hare" are sometimes used interchangeably, in zoological terms the species called rabbits are
characterized by the helplessness of their offspring (which are born naked and blind) and by their
gregarious habit of living in colonies in underground burrows. Furthermore, a typical hare is larger than a
rabbit, and has longer ears with characteristic black markings. Hair texture is woolly.
Uses: Felting.
Harris tweed
All are hand woven on the islands off the Northern coast of Scotland (outer Hebrides).
There are two types of Harris Tweed:
1) Fabric woven from hand-spun yarn.
2) Fabric woven from machine-spun yarn.
Now very few are woven from hand spun yarns as it takes too much time and labor. It is always stamped
to that effect in addition to the label which any Harris Tweed always bears. Much is woven in 27" and 28"
widths, but also in 54". When damp, it smells mossy and smoky.
From one of the islands where it's made "Harris". Trademark.
Heat transfer printing
The technique of printing fabrics by transferring a printed design from paper to fabric via heat and
pressure. It's derived from the art of decalcomania, which is the process of transferring pictures or designs
from specially prepared paper to other materials such as glass. HTP paper is the starting point for heat
transfer printing. Transfer printing is used mainly on fine knit fabrics and lightweight fabrics and is rapidly
gaining in importance in textile circles. Also being used by apparel makers on parts of garments to enhance
their fashion appeal.
Hemp
Common name for an Asian annual herb (Cannabis), and also for its strong, pliable fibers. This species is
often called true hemp or Indian hemp. It is cultivated in Eurasia, the United States, and Chile. A hemp plant
may be as small as 91 cm (36 in) or as tall as 5 m (15 ft), depending upon the climate and soil type. There
are two cultivated strains: the one commonly grown in the north is grown principally for fiber, the one
grown mainly in southern regions is grown as a drug plant.
Hemp stems are hollow and have a fibrous inner bark. The fibers from this bark are used to make a great
variety of textile products, including coarse fabrics, ropes, sailcloth, and packing cloth. Soft fibers, used for
making clothing fabrics in Asia, are obtained from hemp harvested at the time of pollination; strong, coarse
fibers are obtained from mature plants. The fibers are removed and processed by methods similar to those
used in processing flax. Partly decomposed, the stalks are dried, broken, and shaken to separate the
woody stalks from the fibers. The fiber is dark tan or brown and is difficult to bleach, but it can be dyed
bright and dark colors. The hemp fibers vary widely in length, depending upon their ultimate use. Industrial
fibers may be several inches long, while fibers used for domestic textiles are about 3/4 inch to 1 inch (1.9
to 2.54 cm) long. The elongation (1 to 6 percent) is low and its elasticity poor. The thermal reactions of hemp
and the effect of sunlight are the same as for cotton. Hemp is moth resistant, but it is not impervious to
mildew. Coarse hemp fibers and yarns are woven into cordage, rope, sacking and heavy-duty tarpaulins. In
Italy, fine hemp fibers are used for interior design and apparel fabrics.
Henequen
It is obtained from the leaves of the Agave fourcroydes plant, which is native to Mexico. It is produced by
mechanically decorticating the leaves into strands from 4 to 5 feet.
Henequen, sisal, and bowstring hemp belong to the family Agavaceae.
Henrietta
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: Originally consisted of worsted filling and silk warp. Today,
it can be found in a variety of blends. It has excellent drapability. Its weight and quality vary with fibers,
however, when created with silk and wool it is lustrous and soft.
Uses: Dress goods.
Herringbone twill
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: It was named after the skeleton of the Herring as this is
what the fiber pattern resembles. It is usually created in wool and has varying qualities. It is also known as
Arrowhead.
Uses: Suitings, top coatings, sports coats.
Hickory cloth
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: It is characterized by its excellent durability. It is warp
striped and comes in a variety of colors. It usually is created with cotton.
Uses: Work clothes.
Homespun
Fiber: Cotton or wool
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Coarse, rugged yarn is used.
Originally an un dyed woolen cloth spun into yarn and woven in the home, by peasants and country folk the
world over. Has substantial appearance and serviceable qualities. Made with irregular, slightly twisted
uneven yarns. Has a spongy feel with a hand-loomed tweedy appearance. Genuine homespun is produced
in a very limited quantity and much powerloom cloth is sold as genuine homespun. Many qualities made -
the best is an ideal rough-and-ready type of cloth.
Uses: Coats, suits, separates and sportswear.
Honan
Fiber: Silk, also from man-made synthetics.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: The best grade
of wild silk. Very similar to "pongee" but finer. Made from wild silkworms raised in the Honan area of China.
The only wild type that gives even dyeing results. Do not fit too tightly.
Uses: Dresses, ensembles,
blouses, lingerie.
Honey comb
Fiber:
Weave: Float
Characteristics: Its name comes from a French word meaning birds
nest. Its patterns are regular and open. Honey Comb is found in many fabrics and is also known as
Diamond Weave.
Uses: Draperies, jackets and women's clothing.
Hong kong
This is a ribbed fabric usually found in plain colors. It comes in a variety of qualities but the best type is
made out of silk.
Hopsacking
Fiber: Wool, worsted, cotton, linen, rayon, silk, hemp, jute.
Weave: Basket. In wool and worsted 2
x 2 basket usually or novelty basket to resemble hopsack cloth.
Characteristics: Made with coarse
yarn. Has a rather rough texture and quite durable. Often quite bulky but various weights.
Uses:
Men's and women's sportswear, coats, suits, draperies. If fine, used for dresses.
Houndstooth
Fiber: most commonly made with wool.
Weave: broken twill weave.
Characteristics:
weaved into an irregular check of a four pointed star.
Uses: sport coats, suits.
Huckaback
Fiber: Linen, cotton.
Weave: Dobby or basket.
Characteristics: It is strong. Rough in the
surface finish but finer, shinier than cotton huckaback. Has variation in weaves but most have small
squares on the surface that stand out from the background. Comes in white, colors, or colored borders.
Also stripes. The motif is made from a series of floats, some of them rather long, which gives a loose effect
in certain areas. This, if well spaced, acts as a good absorbing agency.
Uses: Mostly used for
toweling.
I
Illusion
Fiber: Silk.
Weave: Gauze or made on bobbinet machine or knotted.
Characteristics: A
very fine, all-silk tulle which originated in France. It has a cobweb appearance. Hexagonal open mesh.
Made in 52 inch and 72 inch widths.
Uses: Veilings, particularly for weddings, trimmings.
Intarsia
A type of knitting.
Usually featuring large diamond checks showing light, dark and halftones in between.
The diamond areas are separated from each other by complete loops, and not loops superimposed on
ground loops made from other yarns.
Mock intarsia knit gives the same patterning motif using the jacquard mechanism.
Design is most often
seen on sweaters, scarves, socks and stockings.
The word intarsia refers to all kinds of 'inlay' including marquetry, which is a form of decoration for furniture
and architectural panels.
From the Italian word, intarsiare meaning 'inlay'.
Ixtle
Fiber Linen, cotton.
Weave: Dobby or basket.
Characteristics: It is strong. Rough in the
surface finish but finer, shinier than cotton huckaback. Has variation in weaves but most have small
squares on the surface that stand out from the background. Comes in white, colors, or colored borders.
Also stripes. The motif is made from a series of floats, some of them rather long, which gives a loose effect
in certain areas. This, if well spaced, acts as a good absorbing agency.
J
Jackrabbit
Animal also known as a Hare. Hair texture is woolly.
Uses: Felting.
Jacquard
A woven design made with the aid of a jacquard head (this constitutes a jacquard loom) and may vary from
simple, self-colored, spot effects to elaborate, multicolored all-over effects.
The loom operates a bit like the roller on a player piano. But instead of notes, it gives instructions to the
machine on how to create the design.
Named after J. M. Jacquard, French inventor of the loom d. 1834
Jersey
Fiber: Wool, worsted, silk, cotton, rayon, and synthetics.
Weave: Knitted on circular, flat-bed or
warp knitted methods (later popular as a tricot-knit).
Characteristics: Right side has lengthwise ribs
(Wales) and wrong side has crosswise ribs (courses). Very elastic with good draping qualities. Has
special crease-resistant qualities due to its construction. Is knitted plain or has many elaborate tweed
designs and fancy motifs as well as printed designs. Can look very much like woven fabric. Wears very
well and if washable, it washes very well. First made on the Island on Jersey off the English coast and
used for fisherman's clothing. Stretch as you sew.
Uses: Dress goods, sportswear, suits,
underwear, coats, gloves, sweaters, hats.
Jusi
Jusi fabric was once made from Abaca or Banana_Silk, but since the 1960's, it has been replaced by
imported Silk_Organza. A Barong Tagalog (or simply Barong) is an embroidered formal garment of the
Philippines. Most barong are made of Pina_Cloth or Jusi fabric. Jusi is mechanically woven and stronger
than the Pina_Cloth, which is hand loomed and more delicate. However, pina cloth is more expensive than
Jusi and is thus used for very formal events.
Jute
Jute (or Burlap) is used in textiles for interiors, especially for wall hangings and a group of bright,
homespun-effect draperies and wall coverings. Natural jute has a yellow to brown or gray color, with a
silky luster. It consists of bundles of fiber held together by gummy substances that are pertinacious in
character. It is difficult to bleach completely, so many fabrics are bright, dark, or natural brown in color. Jute
reacts to chemicals in the same way as do cotton and flax. It has a good resistance to micro-organisms
and insects. Moisture increases the speed of deterioration but dry jute will last for a very long time. Jute
works well for bagging, because it does not extend and is somewhat rough and coarse. This tends to keep
stacks of bags in position and resist slippage. It is widely used in the manufacture of linoleum and carpets
for backing or base fabric.
K
Kapok
A seed fiber or floss obtained from the cotton tree. It is used chiefly for stuffing.
Karakul
Also caracul.
n. Also called broadtail.
A breed of Central Asian sheep having a wide tail and wool that is curled and glossy in the young but wiry
and coarse in the adult.
Fur made from the pelt of a karakul lamb.
Kasha
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: Originally made of Vicuna. Today the Vicuna is considered
an endangered species so Kasha is made from either a blend of cashmere and wool or a very fine wool.
Uses: Clothing.
Kashmir
Fiber: From the Kashmir goat, a hair fiber found in Kashmir India, Tibet, Iran, Iraq, China, Persia, Turkestan
and Outer Mongolia. Often mixed with wool or synthetics to cut costs and improve the wear.
Weave: All weaves but mostly plain or twill. All knits.
Characteristics: Fiber is cylindrical,
soft and silken. More like wool than any other hair fiber. Has a very soft silky finish; very light in weight.
Doesn't stand up to hard wear on account of extremely soft downy finish. Natural fiber is white, black,
brown or gray but can be died a variety of shades. Comes in different weights.
Uses: The textile
industry is only interested in the soft fibers. Knitted into sweaters for men and women, also women's
dresses. Often combed and sold in tops and noils.
Kenaf
It is a bast fiber that is obtained from the Hibiscus cannabinus plant. The stalk of this plant varies in height
from 8 to 12 feet and is about half an inch in diameter. Kenaf is mostly produced in India and Pakistan but
also grows in Africa, South East Asia, Indonesia, Russia, Mexico, the Philippines, Cuba and the United
States. It is mainly used for cordage, canvas, and sacking. It is sometimes used as a substitute for Jute.
Kersey
Fiber: Wool - poor quality, can also be made of re-used or remanufactured wool.
Weave: Double
cloth.
Characteristics: Medium to heavy weight, similar to melton and beaver. Well fulled in the
finishing with a rather lustrous nap caused by the use of lustrous crossbred wools. Nap often has
direction. Gives good wear and is dressy looking. Blues, browns and blacks are the most popular colors.
Originated in Kersey, England in 11th century. Very similar to beaver but it is fulled more, has a shorter nap
and a much higher luster.
Uses: Men's over coating, uniforms, women's coats, and skirts.
Knitting
Process of making fabric by interlocking series of loops of one or more yarns.
L
Lambs wool
Lamb`s Wool:
Elastic, soft, resilient wool fibers obtained from lambs when they are seven or eight
months old - the first or virgin clipping from the animal. This lofty stock is used in better grades of fabrics.
Lame
Lamé:
Fiber: Silk or any textile fiber in which metallic threads are used in the warp or the filling. Lamé is
also a trade mark for metallic yarns.
Weave: Usually a figured weave but could be any.
Characteristics: A fabric with gold or silver threads interwoven. Often has pattern all over the
surface. The shine and glitter of this fabric makes it suitable for dressy wear. The term comes from the
French for "worked with gold and silver wire".
Uses: Principally for evening wear. a fabric with
gold or silver threads interwoven
French for "trimmed with leaves of gold or silver", from Latin lamina
Lampas
A term describing a jacquard fabric, a term interchangeable with a brocade or damask. Can be two-tone or
multicolor, the difference being that the design has a greater raised effect on the face of the fabric.
Latex
Characteristics: Natural and synthetic fibers are made from this raw material. Natural Latex is a
white milky emulsion.
Lawn
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: A fine linen or cotton fabric used for clothes.
Word derived from Laon, a city in France, where linen lawn was manufactured extensively. Light weight,
sheer, soft, washable. It is crispier than Voilé but not as crisp as organdy. Made with fine high count yarns,
silky feel. Made with either carded or combed yarns. Comes in white or may be dyed or printed. When
made with combed yarns with a soft feel and slight luster it is called nainsook.
Uses: Underwear,
dresses, blouses, night wear, curtains, lingerie, collars, cuffs, infant wear, shirtings, handkerchiefs.
Middle English, probably from Laon, a city in France important for linen manufacture
Leather
The skin of an animal tanned or otherwise dressed for use. Full Top Grain, indicating the very best hides
available on the world market today. Only the finest hides, those that do not require sanding or buffing to
remove defects or imperfections, can be classified as Full top Grain. These premium hides in their natural,
unadulterated state retain the superior characteristics of suppleness and tuftability found only in genuine
Full Top Grain leather.
Linen
Cloth woven from flax.
Old English lºnen from West Germanic: related to obsolete line ‘flax’
Lisere
A jacquard fabric usually made with a taffeta or faille ground. The design is created by colored warp
threads brought up on the face of the fabric, leaving loose yarns on the back. These threads are sometimes
clipped.
Llama
Common name for a long-eared South American ruminant that is domesticated from the guanaco. The llama
stands 0.9 to 1.3 m (3 to 4.3 ft) high at the shoulder and is usually white, blotched with black and brown;
sometimes it is pure white or pure black. The long, coarse wool is used in the weaving of textiles, and the
skins are tanned for leather. This fiber has impressive luster and warmth and is very light weight.
Loden cloth
Fiber: Wool or mixed-wool.
Characteristics: It was originally made exclusively from wool but is
now found in a combination of wool with alpaca, mohair or camel. It is well known for its thickness,
durability and resistance to water.
Uses: Winter clothes and sportswear.
From the German word Loda, which means hair cloth.
Longcloth
It is one of the first fabrics created in especially long strips. Its luster is moderate but its quality is fairly high.
This cotton and cotton blend fabric is very soft.
Loom
A machine or apparatus for weaving yarn into fabric. The warp (lengthwise) threads are secured on the
loom through the eyes of heddles and attached to the loom beam at the front of the loom. The filling
(crosswise) thread darts between the warp threads as they are alternately lifted and lowered. sometimes
carried by a shuttle, sometimes propelled by air pressure, or other methods in shuttless looms.
The Plain Weave Consists of one thread over and one thread under. This type is found in sheeting.
The Twill Weave Has each warp thread passing over two or more filling threads, with the
interlacing advancing one thread on successive warps. This type, with its "diagonal line", is found in
denims.
The Satin Weave Has few interlacings widely but regularly spaced, resulting in a lustrous "right"
side and dull back. This type is found in dress goods.
Jacquard Design A woven design made with the aid of a jacquard head (this constitutes a
jacquard loom) and may vary from simple, self-colored, spot effects to elaborate, multicolored, all over
effects.
The Major Motions or Actions of looms are shedding, picking, and beating-up. Minor motions on looms are
the take-up, let-off, and pattern. The first three motions are linked together as follows:
Shedding Motion The separating of the warp ends into an upper and lower system of threads to
permit the shuttle to pass through the space that has been formed. The warp ends are drawn through
heddle eyes in the correct manner, and in the turning-over of the crankshaft of the loom, a shed is formed
with each turn.
Picking Motion The actual passing of the shuttle through the shed of the loom. The shuttle passes
over the lowered ends of the shed and under its raised ends. The shed permits the shuttle to pass through
it and thereby makes it possible for the shuttle to deposit the pick or filling yarn.
Beating-Up The actual beating into place of the loose pick that was placed in the shed of the loom in
Old English geloma - tool
Luster fabric
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: It is created using fibers with high luster such as worsted
or mohair yarn. Warp threads are used to create this fabric. Cotton is usually the main component,
however, sometimes manufactured fibers are used.
Lycra
an elastic polyurethane fiber or fabric used esp. for close-fitting sports clothing
Lyons velvet
A stiff, thick pile velvet. Used for hats, coat collars, also for suits, coats and dresses, when thick velvets
are fashionable.
M
Mackinaw
Fiber: Wool. Ordinary grade of wool and often has shoddy re-used or remanufactured wool mixed in.
Sometimes a cotton warp is used.
Weave: Twill or double cloth. Weave is concealed.
Characteristics: Very heavily fulled or felted and napped on both sides to conceal the weave.
Much of the fabric is in a plaid or large check design or brightly colored, or different colors on each side.
Heavy and thick, very similar to melton. Named for MacKinac Island, Michigan. Also called ski cloth or snow
cloth.
Uses: Miners, lumbermen, hunters, trappers, fishermen, and cowboys use much of the
fabric for jackets, mackinaws and coats. Also used for blankets, shirts, and some heavy sportswear,windbreakers.
Macrame
Macramé:
Weave: knotted lace
Characteristics: Originally made in Arabia but later
made in Italy. Used to manufacture shawls and scarves.
Madras
Fiber: Cotton - some in rayon and silk.
Weave: Plain, also dobby or jacquard for designs.
Characteristics: Originated in Madras, India and it is a very old cloth. Much of it has a plain colored
background with stripes, plaid, checks, or designs on it. Has a high thread count and fine. Made with
combed or carded yarns depending on the quality. Some is mercerized to make it lustrous and durable.
Often the dyes are not fast and with each washing, color changes take place.
Uses: Men's and
women's sportswear of all kinds, dresses, separates, shirts.
Manila hemp
Also known as Abaca.This vegetable leaf fiber is derived from the Musa textilis plant. It is mainly
grown in the Philippines (where it is a chief export product) but is also found, in smaller amounts, in Africa,
Malaysia, Indonesia and Costa Rica. The fiber is obtained from the outer layer of the leaf. Processing
occurs when it is separated mechanically decorticated into lengths varying from 1 to 3 meters. Mature
plants are processed much the same as flax and hemp. The finer fibers, often 5 m (15 ft) long, are used for
weaving cloth. The outer, coarser fibers are used in the manufacture of matting and durable cordage; the
latter is widely considered the finest rope made. Abaca is very strong with great luster. It is very resistant
to damage from salt water.
Uses: Cordage.
Manufactured fiber
Characteristics: Its commercial use is still fairly recent. It was only one hundred years ago that
Manufacture Fibers were utilized in this fashion, beginning with artificial silk in 1889. It is very flexible and
versatile and can be cared for easily. It is wrinkly free, flame resistant and very comfortable.
Marble cloth
Characteristics: Originally made of silk and wool. Today it is produced with natural and
manufactured fibers.
Marocain
Characteristics: It is ribbed with a wavy look, resembling Crêpe. It is made of silk, wool and
manufactured fibers.
Uses: Suits.
Marquisett
Fiber: Silk, cotton, rayon, synthetics.
Weave: Gauze or lino.
Characteristics: Very
lightweight, open, sheer, mesh fabric. Wears very well and launders very well. Comes in white, solid colors
and novelty effect. Sometimes with a swivel dot or clip spot (marquisette).
Uses: Window
curtains, dressy dress wear, such as bridal parties or after 5 wear.
Marseilles
Fiber:
Weave:
Characteristics: Named after its city of origin in France. It is identified by
its raised woven pattern. This double-faced textile has a quilted appearance that is very elegant. usually
found in white, but occasionally other colors are used.
Matelasse
French for "cushioned or padded". Fiber: Figured made on jacquard or dobby loom, in double cloth weave.
Characteristics: The pattern stands out and gives a "pouch" or "quilted" effect to the goods. Crêpe
yarn in double weave shrinks during finishing causing a blistering effect. in upholstery, coarse yarns cause
blistering. Comes in colors, novelty effects, and some with metallic yarns. Gives good wear and drapes
well. If washable, it must be laundered with care. It is very attractive and suits quite plain styles.
Uses: Some cotton matelasse used for bedspreads, dresses, suits, ensembles.
Melton
Fiber: Wool, sometimes combined with synthetics.
Weave: Twill or satin weave.
Characteristics: Thick well fulled or felted wool with a smooth surface. Napped and very closely
sheared. Coarse meltons are similar to makinaws but made of finer yarns and finished with a smoother,
more lustrous surface - used for "under collar cloth" in lighter weights. Very solid cloth due to the finishing
processes that completely conceal the weave. It wears very well. Wind resistant. if made in tan or buff
color in a coarse quality, it is called "Box cloth". It is classed with kersey, beaver, and broadcloth. Originated
in Melton, Mowbray, England, which is a fox hunting report in England. It was first made as a hunting cloth.
Looks like wool felt - pressed flat.
Uses: Mostly used for men in over coating, uniform cloth of all
kinds (army, navy, etc., as well as police and firemen), pea jackets, regal livery. Used for heavy outer
sports garments and coats for women.
Melwyn
This remarkable fabric, is produced in only one small Cornish village. Known for its durability and attractive
if somewhat rugged appearance.
Obscure, possibly Celtic in origin.
Mercerizati
A process whereby cotton is treated with a solution of Caustic Soda (Sodium Hydroxide) to improve its dye
affinity and luster. Invented by John Mercer in 1844. Used in the creation of Damask.
Named after the inventor: John Mercer.
Messaline
Fiber: Silk
Weave:
Characteristics: Often believed to be named after the Roman Emperor
Claudius' third wife. It is very soft, lustrous and lightweight. It usually comes in solid colors.
Metallic fiber
Fiber:
Weave:
Characteristics:
Uses:
Micro fiber
Very fine Nylon or Polyester filaments. Produce light soft and breathable fabrics.
Modacrylic
Fiber:
Weave:
Characteristics: It is very resilient and soft. It retains its shape and is
resistant to chemicals, flames and abrasion.
Mohair
Fiber: From the angora goat. Some has cotton warp and mohair filling (sometimes called brilliantine). Imitation
mohair made from wool or a blend.
Weave: Plain or twill or knitted.
Characteristics:
Angora goat is one of the oldest animals known to man. It is 2 1/2 times as strong as wool. Goats are raised
in South Africa, Western Asia, turkey, and neighboring countries. Some are in the U.S.A. Fabric is smooth,
glossy, and wiry. Has long wavy hair. Also made in a pile fabric of cut and uncut loops similar to frieze with
a cotton and wool back and mohair pattern. - Similar to alpaca.
Uses: Linings, pile fabrics, suitings,
upholstery fabrics, braids, dress materials, felt hats, and sweaters.
Moire
Moiré:
Fiber: Silk, rayon, cotton.
Weave: Plain or crosswise rib.
Characteristics: Has a
watermarked finish. Fairly stiff with body in most cases. It is produced by passing the fabric between
engraved cylinders which press the design into the material, causing the crushed and uncrushed parts to
reflect the light differently. The pattern is not permanent, except on acetate rayon.
Uses: After 5
wear, formals, dresses and coats, draperies, bedspreads.
Monks cloth
Monk's Cloth:
Fiber: Wool, cotton, linen, silk, rayon, or synthetics.
Weave: 4 x 4 basket weave.
Characteristics: Quite heavy, due to construction. It is difficult to sew or manipulate as the yarns
have a tendency to slide, stretch and fray. May sag in time depending on the compactness of the weave. It
can also be made in other basket weaves. Quite rough in texture.
Uses: Draperies, all types of
upholstery and house furnishings. Also used for coats and suits for women and sports coats for men.
Montagnac
Weave: Twill.
Characteristics: This luxurious textile is soft and lustrous. It is mainly
created with Cashmere or Camel hair.
Uses: Over coating.
Moss crepe
Mossy Crêpe or Sand Crêpe (trade mark). Has a fine moss effect created by plain weave or small Dobby.
Made with a spun-rayon warp and a filament rayon filling. The two-ply warp yarn is very coarse and
bulkier than the filling. Mostly made in rayon and synthetics but some in silk.
Mousseline
Fiber: Silk.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: It is silk muslin. Sheer, open, and lightweight. It is
something like chiffon but with a crisp finish produced by sizing. It does not wear well and it does not
launder.
Uses: Evening wear, and bridal wear. Trimmings. Also used in millinery as a backing.
Muskrat
Characteristics: Mostly found in North America. The thick blue-gray, which resembles the
beaver's, has fibers that are extremely fine.
Uses: Primarily used by the fur industry.
Muslin
A smooth delicately woven cotton fabric, used for dresses and curtains. In the USA coarser cotton fabrics
used for shirts and sheeting are also called muslins.
French Mousseline, from Mussolo, Mosul, a city in Iraq (Mesopotamia).
N
Nacre velvet
The back is of one color and the pile of another, so that it gives a changeable, pearly appearance.
Nainsook
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Produced in the finishing processes from the
same gray goods as used for batiste, cambric, lawn. Fine and lightweight. Soft and has a slight luster in the
better qualities (mercerization). Slightly heavier than batiste. Like lawn but not as crisp. Soft, lacks body.
Usually found in white but also comes in pastel colors and some printed.
Uses: tucked or
embroidered, blouses, night wear, lingerie, and infant's wear.
Nap
1 the raised pile on textiles, esp. velvet. 2 a soft downy surface. 3 Austral. colloq. blankets, bedding,
swag.
Middle English noppe from Middle Dutch, Middle Low German noppe ‘nap’, noppen ‘trim nap from’
Net
Fiber: Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics, particularly nylon.
Weave: Knotted, made on a lace machine
or gauze or leno weaves.
Characteristics: A mesh fabric made in a variety of geometric-shaped
meshes of different sizes and weights. It is very open and light.
Uses: It forms the foundation for a
great variety of laces, curtains, millinery, fancy pillows, trims, evening and bridal wear. In cotton, some is
used for mosquito netting and screening.
Ninnon
Fiber: Rayon. Synthetics.
Weave: Plain, open mesh.
Characteristics: A sheer, fairly crisp
fabric, heavier than chiffon. Much like Voilé, but more body. The warp yarns are often grouped in pairs.
Washes well, particularly in the synthetics.
Uses: Mostly used for curtains, and some for evening
or bridal wear.
Non-crushable linen
Fiber:
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: It is very versatile and has excellent wash ability
and durability. It is treated so as to create a high resistance to wrinkling. This finish provides greater
resilience and elasticity.
Nutria
Characteristics: Mainly found in South America. Beautiful, silky, fine belly undergrowth.
Uses: Primarily used by the fur industry but the textile industry often uses fibers in blends
emphasizing softness.
Nylon
Characteristics: This manufactured fiber is very strong and is resistant to both abrasion and
damage from many chemicals. It is elastic, easy to wash and is quite lustrous. It returns easily to its original
shape and is non-absorbent. It is fast drying, resistant to some dyes, and resistant to moths and other
insects, water, perspiration and standard dry-cleaning agents.
Uses: Women’s hosiery, knitted or
woven lingerie, socks and sweaters, rugs and carpets, tents, sleeping bags, duffle bags, racquet strings,
fishing lines, sails, tire cord, machine belting, filter netting, fish nets, laminates, and ropes.
O
Oilcloth
Characteristics: Originally, textiles such as cotton were coated in oil to create resistance to
moisture. Now, resins from plastics are used instead of oil. Olefin is a very versatile fiber with excellent
flexibility.
Uses: Waterproof garments, book bags, belts, bibs, pencil cases, luggage, surgical
supplies.
Olefin fibe
Characteristics: It is very lightweight yet strong. It is resistant to abrasion, soil, stains and
deterioration from mildew, and damage from chemicals. It is also quick drying and colorfast.
Uses:
Various uses such as apparel, interior parts of automobiles, furniture and carpets.
Ombre
A fabric woven with shades of one color from light to dark in the warp, usually creating a striped effect.
Ondule
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Its name is derived from a French word meaning wavy.
This wavy effect is created by weaving the warp irregularly. It is created in silk, cotton and manufactured
fibers.
Opossum
Characteristics: Can be found in Australia, Southern USA and Argentina. white face and fur that is
loose, grayish and white-tipped.
Uses: Pelting used chiefly as trimming for cloth coats.
Organdie
A fine translucent cotton muslin, usually stiffened to form a durable crisp finish. Also US Organdy.
French organdi, of unknown origin
Organdy
Fiber: Cotton.
Weave: Plain. Some has lappet, swivel, or flocked designs.
Characteristics:
Made with tightly twisted yarns. Crispness is due to a finish with starch and calendaring which washes
out, or a permanent crispness obtained with chemicals (Heberlein process). Wrinkles badly unless given a
wrinkle-free finish (bellmanizing). May be bleached, dyed, printed, frosted, flocked, embroidered, or plisse.
Uses: Fussy children's wear, trims, collars and cuffs, baby's wear, bonnets, artificial flowers,
dolls clothes, millinery, summer formals, blouses, curtains, bedspreads, aprons.
Organza
Organza
Fiber: Silk, rayon.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: A thin stiff transparent silk or synthetic
dress fabric. Fine, sheer, lightweight, crisp fabric. It has a very wiry feel. It crushes or musses fairly easily,
but it is easily pressed. Dressy type of fabric, sometimes has a silvery sheen.
Uses: All types of
after 5 dresses, trimming, neckwear, millinery, and underlinings for delicate, sheer materials, as well as an
underlining for other fabrics that require a bit of stiffness without weight.
probably from Lorganza (US trade name)
Osnaberg
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Osnaberg is characterized by its strength and durability. It
is medium to heavyweight. It is coarse and varies in both color and print. May or may not be treated with a
finish. If it is finished, it is also known as Hopsacking or Crash.
Ottoman
Fiber: Silk, rayon, wool or synthetics.
Weave: Crosswise rib.
Characteristics: A heavy
silken fabric with a mixture of cotton or wool. Heavy in weight - larger rib than both faille and bengaline.
Very pronounced flat ribs in the filling direction. Ribs are made by a cotton, worsted, silk, or rayon filling
which does not show on either the face or the back, because the warp covers the filling entirely. Is called
Ottoman Cord or Ottoman rib when a warp rib is employed. Fabric is stiff and cannot be gathered or
shirred. Like other ribbed fabrics, it has a tendency to slip at the seams and crack, so it cannot be fitted too
tightly.
Uses: Evening wraps, formal coats, dressy suits, dressy afternoon wear, and after 5
French ottomane, fem. of ottoman OTTOMAN
Oxford
Fiber: Cotton - some in rayon.
Weave: Plain variations - usually basket 2 x 1.
Characteristics: Warp has two fine yarns which travel as one and one heavier softly-spun bulky
filling which gives it a basket-weave look. Better qualities are mercerized. rather heavy. Usually is all white
but some has a spaced stripe in the warp direction. Launders very well but soils easily. When made with
yarn dyed warp and white weft, it is called oxford chambray. The one remaining commercial shirting
material made originally by a Scotch mill which bore the names of four Universities - Oxford, Cambridge,
Harvard, and Yale.
Uses: Men's shirts mostly. Also used for summer jackets, shirts, skirts,dresses, and sportswear.
P
Paillette satin
It is characterized by its changeable color and is available in a variety of different colors. It was originally
executed in silk but is now made with manufactured fibers.
Panne
Weave:
Characteristics: Panne is a French word meaning plush. It resembles velvet but
has a much longer pile. It has high luster and is made in silk, silk blends or with manufactured fibers.
Panne velvet
Has a longer or higher pile than velvet, but shorter than plush. It is pressed flat and has a high luster made
possible by a tremendous roller-press treatment given the material in finishing. Now often made as knit
fabric.
Paper taffeta
Plain weave, very light in weight and treated to give a crisp, paper-like finish.
Pbi
Characteristics: Highly resistant to flame. When exposed to heat, is prone to low shrinkage. Has
exceptional thermal and chemical stability.
Peau de cynqe
Crêpe yarns are woven to create a silk textile with high luster. It has a slightly slubbed texture and a good
body.
The name comes from a French phrase that means "swam skin".
Peau de peche
The name comes from a French phrase meaning "skin of peach". This textile has a soft nap that is acquired
after a finishing process.
Peau de soie
Soft, satin-face, good quality cloth. It has a dull luster. Has a grainy appearance, and is a characteristic in
the cloth which may have a single or double face construction. Fine close ribs are seen in the filling
direction. With the best grades, the fabric can be used on either side. Lower qualities are finished on one
side only. Name means "skin of silk". Some cloth sold as peau de soie is really a de-lustered satin. It doesn't
have the grainy appearance. Because of crosswise rib, fabric difficult to ease. Also sold as "de-lustered
satin".
Pekin
Weave: Novelty
Characteristics: It has a very fine quality. It is characterized by its
vertical stripes of identical width that have equal widths between them. It consists of Cotton, wool, silk, or
elaborate velvet stripes that are separated by satin.
Percale
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Medium weight, firm, smooth, with no gloss.
Warps and washes very well. Made from both carded and combed yarns. Comes white or can be printed.
Percale sheeting is the finest sheeting available, made of combed yarns and has a count of 200 - carded
percale sheeting has a count of 180. It has a soft, silk-like feel. The thread count ranges usually from 180-
100. First made by Wamsutta Mills.
Uses: Dresses, women's and children's, sportswear, aprons,
and sheets.
Pilling
Formation of fiber fuzz balls on a fabric surface by wear or friction.
Pin check
Fiber: Worsted, also made in cotton and rayon.
Weave: Twill.
Characteristics: A minute
check effect caused by a combination of weave and color. It has the appearance of tiny white dots
appearing in rows, vertically, and horizontally. Holds a sharp crease, tailors and wears exceptionally well.
In time, it is inclined to shine with wear.
Uses: Men's suits, women's tailored suits and skirts. In
cotton, it usually has a white dot on a blue ground and it is used for work clothes.
Pina cloth
Pina cloth is a fine cloth made from pineapple fibers .
A Barong Tagalog (or simply Barong) is an embroidered formal garment of the Philippines.
Most barong are made of pina cloth or jusi fabric. Pina cloth is hand loomed and quite delicate. Pina cloth is
more expensive than Jusi and is thus used for very formal events.
Pinhead
Fiber: Worsted, also made in cotton and rayon.
Weave: Twill.
Characteristics: A minute
check effect caused by a combination of weave and color. It has the appearance of tiny white dots
appearing in rows, vertically, and horizontally. Holds a sharp crease, tailors and wears exceptionally well.
In time, it is inclined to shine with wear.
Uses: Men's suits, women's tailored suits and skirts. In
cotton, it usually has a white dot on a blue ground and it is used for work clothes.
Piqué
Fiber: Cotton, rayon, synthetics.
Weave: Lengthwise rib, English crosswise rib or cord weave.
Characteristics: A stiff ribbed cotton or other fabric. Originally was a crosswise rib but now
mostly a lengthwise rib and the same as Bedford cord. Ribs are often filled to give a more pronounced wale
(cord weave). Comes in medium to heavy weights. It is generally made of combed face yarns and carded
stuffer yarns. It is durable and launders well. Wrinkles badly unless given a wrinkle-free finish. Various
prices. Also comes in different patterns besides Wales. Some of the patterns are birds eye (small diamond),
waffle (small squares), honeycomb (like the design on honeycomb honey). When the fabric begins to wear
out it wears at the corded areas first.
Uses: Trims, collars, cuffs, millinery, infants wear, coats,
and bonnets, women's and children's summer dresses, skirts and blouses, shirts, play clothes, and evening
French, past part. of piquer: ‘prick, irritate’, from Romanic
Plisse
Fiber: Cotton, rayon, and others.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Could be made from any
fine material, e.g. organdy, lawn, etc. Treated with a caustic soda solution which shrinks parts of the goods
either all over or in stripes giving a blistered effect. Similar to seersucker in appearance. This crinkle may or
may not be removed after washing. This depends on the quality of the fabric. It does not need to be ironed,
but if a double thickness, such as a hem, needs a little, it should be done after the fabric is thoroughly dry.
Uses: Sleepwear, housecoats, dresses, blouses for women and children, curtains, bedspreads,
and bassinets. Often it is called wrinkle Crêpe and may be made with a wax/shrink process (the waxed
parts remain free of shrinkage and cause the ripples).
Plush
Velvet or velveteen where the pile is 1/8" thick or more. e.g. Cotton velour, hat velour, plush "fake furs".
Pocket weave
A jacquard double-layered fabric with several warps. The design is created with both warps and fillings.
Point desprit
Point_d'esprit:
Fiber: Cotton - some in silk.
Weave: Leno, gauze, knotted, or mesh.
Characteristics: First made in France in 1834. Dull surfaced net with various sized holes. Has
white or colored dots individually spaced or in groups.
Uses: Curtains, bassinets, evening gowns.
Polished cotton
A plain weave cotton cloth characterized by a sheen ranging from dull to bright. Polish can be achieved
either through the weave or the addition of a resin finish. Can be a solid color, usually piece dyed or printed.
Polyester
1) any of a group of condensation polymers used to form synthetic fibers such as Terylene or to make
resins.
2) a fabric made from such a polymer.
Characteristics: It is an extremely resilient fiber that is smooth, crisp and particularly springy. Its
shape is determined by heat and it is insensitive to moisture. It is lightweight, strong and resistant to
creasing, shrinking, stretching, mildew and abrasion. It is readily washable and is not damaged by sunlight
or weather and is resistant to moths and mildew.
Uses: Many and varied.
Poly- Greek combining form of polys much, many.
Polymerizat
The process of forming a Polymer. A polymer is a compound formed by joining two or more molecules to
form a more complex chemical with a higher molecular weight.
Typical examples are polyethylene,
Nylon, Rayon, Acrylic and PVC (polyvinyl chloride).
Greek Polymeres of many parts
Pompadour
Originally executed in silk. Often has large floral designs in velvet or pile on a Taffeta ground. Occasionally
stripes are used instead of flowers. Today it is made with manufactured fibers.
Pongee
Fiber: Silk, cotton, rayon.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: Originally from China and
originally woven on hand looms in the home. Light or medium weight. Tan or ecru in color. Woven "in the
gum". Some is dyed, but color is not quite uniform. Some printed. warp is finer and more even than filling.
Nubs or irregular cross ribs produced by uneven yarns. It is woven from wild tussah silk and it is a "raw
silk".
Uses: Dresses, ensembles, blouses, summer suits, in a medium weight. It used to be a great
deal for drapery linings. Pongee cotton is made of combed yarns and given a variety of finishes.
Poplin
Fiber: Cotton, wool, and other textile fibers.
Weave: Crosswise rib. The filling is cylindrical. Two or
three times as many warp as weft per inch.
Characteristics: A plain-woven fabric usu. of cotton,
with a corded surface. Has a more pronounced filling effect than broadcloth. It is mercerized and has quite
a high luster. It may be bleached, or dyed (usually vat dyes are used) or printed. Heavy poplin is given a
water-repellent finish for outdoor use. Originally made with silk warp and a heavier wool filling. Some also
mildew-proof, fire-retardant, and some given a suede finish. American cotton broadcloth shirting is known
as poplin in Great Britain.
Uses: Sportswear of all kinds, shirts, boy's suits, uniforms, draperies,
blouses, dresses.
obsolete French papeline, perhaps from Italian papalina (fem.)
Protein based fibers
Fiber: Cellulose
Weave:
Characteristics: This cellulose fiber is highly absorbent. Its
drapability and dye ability are excellent and it is fairly soft.
Provence
Fiber: Cotton.
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: This is a typed style of printing which
characterizes Provence, a French country.
Pyrenees
Fiber: Wool
Weave: Characteristics This fabric is made in France from the wool of Pyrenees
sheep. The Pyrenees is a mountain chain between France and Spain. The fabric is well known because it
is a high quality fabric which keeps warm.
Uses: Men's and women's dressing gowns.
Q
Qiviut
The name comes from an Eskimo word meaning 'down'. This fiber is obtained from the Arctic Musk Ox. It is
lustrous, soft, durable and free of oils.
R
Rabbit
Characteristics: Wild rabbits have brownish or gray colors. Tame ones range in color from white
to black. Uses Coats and trimmings.
Raccoon
Characteristics: Native American. The fur is brown-brown and black.
Uses: Sportswear.
Pelt is used for trimmings for cloth and fur coats. Only the woolly fiber is used for textile purposes.
Radium
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Originated in Lyons France. It has high luster and is smooth
and soft.
Rajah
Fiber: Silk, rayon.
Weave: Plain - warp yarn is 4 thread organized - filling is heavier.
Characteristics: Made from a tussah silk or certain silk wastes. It belongs to the pongee family of
silks. Made from irregular yarns, so has slubs and irregularities but thicker than shantung. it is rather
compact and strong. Has a pebble-like feel and appearance. Comes in all colors as well as natural ecru
shades, but often warp and filling are different colors (iridescent effect).
Ramie
Ramie is a natural woody fiber resembling flax. Also know as rhea and China grass, it is obtained from a tall
shrub grown in South-east Asia. China, Japan, and southern Europe. The fiber is stiff, more brittle than
linen, and highly lustrous. It can be bleached to extreme whiteness. Ramie fibers are long and very fine.
They are white and lustrous and almost silk-like in appearance. The strength of ramie is excellent and varies
from 5.3 to 7.4 grams per denier. Elastic recovery is low and elongation is poor. Ramie lends itself to
general processing for textile yarns, but its retting operation is difficult and costly, making the fiber
unprofitable for general use. When combed, ramie is half the density of linen, but much stronger, coarser,
and more absorbent. It has permanent luster and good affinity for dyes; it is affected little by moisture.
Ramie is used as filling yarn in mixed woolen fabrics, as adulteration with silk fibers, and as a substitute for
flax. The China-grass cloth use by the Chinese is made of Ramie. This fiber is also useful for rope, twine, and nets.
Ratine
Fiber:
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Originated in Italy. Ratine is a French word that
means rough. This fiber has an uneven, pebbled surface. It comes in solid colors and prints and is executed
in silk, cotton or wool.
Rayon
Fiber: Cellulose
Weave:
Characteristics: Any of various textile fibers or fabrics made
from viscose. This cellulose fiber is highly absorbent. Its drapability and dye ability are excellent and it is
fairly soft. Rayon does have a tendency to shrink but does not melt in high temperatures. It is resistant to
moths and is not affected by ordinary household bleaches and chemicals.
Uses: Clothing,
draperies, upholstery, carpets, tablecloths, bedspreads, automobile tires, conveyor belts, hose.
Redwood bark
This fiber is obtained from the bark of the California redwood tree. It is used for insulation and sometimes
for blending with other fibers such as wool and cotton.
Repp
Fiber: Wool, worsted, silk, rayon, wool ottoman, cotton or a blend.
Weave: Crosswise rib.
Characteristics: Has a pronounced narrow cylindrical rib in the filling direction - less distinct than
bengaline; more distinct than poplin. Sometimes a very distinct rib is alternated with a small rib. It is similar to
poplin but heavier in cotton. Can be dyed, printed, or white. Frays badly. Difficult to press (may flatten rib).
Uses: Heavy suits, and coats for men's and boy's wear, and also for some women. Also used for
upholstery and drapery.
Romaine
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: It is a lightweight textile with a low thread count. it is
lustrous and has an uneven textural appearance. It was originally made of silk but is found today in rayon,
acetate, wool, silk and manufactured fibers.
Ruche
Characteristics: Fluted or crimped lace or gauze, used as a trimming
S
Sailcloth
Fiber: Cotton, linen, nylon.
Weave: Plain, some made with a crosswise rib.
Characteristics: A strong canvas or duck. The weights vary, but most often the count is around
148 x 60. Able to withstand the elements (rain, wind and snow). Sailcloth for clothing is sold frequently and
is much lighter weight than used for sails.
Uses: Sails, awnings, and all kinds of sportswear for
men, women, and children.
Sanglier
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Its name is French for wild boar. It was named for its
texture which is compact and wiry. It also has a very rough finish. It is usually created with mohair and
worsted fibers.
Sateen
Fiber: Cotton, some also made in rayon.
Weave: Sateen, 5-harness, filling-face weave.
Characteristics: Cotton fabric woven like satin with a glossy surface. Lustrous and smooth with
the sheen in a filling direction. Carded or combed yarns are used. Better qualities are mercerized to give a
higher sheen. Some are only calendared to produce the sheen but this disappears with sashing and is not
considered genuine sateen. May be bleached, dyed, or printed. Difficult to make good bound buttonholes on
it as it has a tendency to slip at the seams.
Uses: Dresses, sportswear, louses, robes, pajamas,
linings for draperies, bedspreads, slip covers.
satin, on the pattern of velveteen
Satin
A fabric of silk or various man-made fibers, with a glossy surface on one side produced by a twill weave
with the weft-threads almost hidden.
Characteristics: Originated in China (Zaytoun, China - now
Canton - a port from which satins were exported during the Middle Ages). Became known in Europe during
the 12th, and 13th Centuries in Italy. Became known in England by the 14th Century. It became a favorite of
all court life because of its exquisite qualities and feel. Usually has a lustrous surface and a dull back. The
luster is produced by running it between hot cylinders. Made in many colors, weights, varieties, qualities,
and degrees of stiffness. A low grade silk or a cotton filling is often used in cheaper cloths.
Uses:
Slips, evening dresses, coats, capes, and jackets, lining fabrics, millinery, drapes, covers, and pillows,
From Latin seta Silk
Satin faconne
Jacquard figured fabric with an all-satin weave background. Various types of striping effects are obtained.
Jacquard figure on a satin ground.
Satin-back
Satin on one side and anything on the other. e.g. very good velvet ribbon has velvet on one side and satin
on the other.
Satin-back crepe
A reversible cloth with satin on one side and Crêpe on the other.
Satinette
a satin-like fabric made partly or wholly of cotton or synthetic fiber
Saxony
a fine woollen yarn for knitting, etc or a cloth made from this yarn. Originally made from the wool of sheep
from the district of Saxony in Germany.
Seersucker
Fiber: Cotton, rayon, synthetics.
Weave: Plain, slack tension weave.
Characteristics: A
fabric usually striped cotton with alternate stripes crinkled in the weaving. Crêpe-stripe effect. colored
stripes are often used. Dull surface. Comes in medium to heavy weights. The woven crinkle is produced by
alternating slack and tight yarns in the warp. This is permanent. Some may be produced by pressing or
chemicals, which is not likely to be permanent - called plisse. Durable, gives good service and wear. May
be laundered without ironing. Can be bleached, yarn dyed, or printed. Some comes in a check effect.
Uses: Summer suits for men, women, and children, coats, uniforms, trims, nightwear, all kinds of
sportswear, dresses, blouses, children's wear of all kinds, curtains, bedspreads, slipcovers.
Hind. Pers, alteration of shir o shakkar Lit Milk and Sugar.
Selvage
Narrow edge of woven fabric (warp direction) usually of stronger yarns or denser construction than body
of coth.
Serge
Weave: Worsted - also unfinished worsted, wool, cotton, silk, rayon, and synthetics. Weave: A
very distinct twill (2 up/2 down) which shows on both sides of the fabric.
Characteristics: On the
face, the distinct diagonal runs from the lower left to the upper right - piece dyed. Has a smooth, hard finish
that wears exceptionally well but will shine with use. The shine cannot be removed permanently. It is a
good cloth in tailoring as it drapes and clings very well. Made in various weights. Unfinished worsted and
wool are not quite as clear on the surface. French Sere is made of very fine soft yarns and has a very fine
twill. It is used for dresses or very soft suits.
Uses: Coats, suits and sportswear.
Serpentine crepe
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: Its filling has a twisted thread therefore giving it an effect
similar to Crêpe. The size of the Crêpe thread determines the texture. It is executed in a variety of fibers
including manufactured ones.
Shadowy organdy
Characteristics: It is lightweight, crisp and sheer. The shadowy effect is produced when one color
is repeatedly printed on itself.
Shantung
Fiber: Cotton, silk, rayon, synthetics.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: It is a raw silk made
from Tussah silk or silk waste, depending on the quality. It is quite similar to pongee, but has a more irregular
surface, heavier, and rougher. Most of the slubs are in the filling direction. Wrinkles quite a bit. Underlining
helps to prevent this as well as slipping at the seams. Do not fit too tightly, if long wear is expected. Comes
in various weights, colors and also printed.
Uses: Dresses, suits, and coats.
Shantung, Chinese province, where it was originally made
Sharkskin
Fiber: Worsted. Some wool. Also made in rayons and synthetics (particularly Arnel) but they are quite
different.
Weave: 2 x 2 twill weave (1 white, 1 black up and same down).
Characteristics: The yarns in both the warp and filling are alternately white (or very light yarns)
and colored. The combination of weave and color results in colored lines running diagonally to the left
opposite to the twill lines in a "step" effect. Has a very sleek, smooth, feel and appearance. Although it is
fairly light in weight, it has a very substantial feel. Gives excellent wear and sheds dirt readily. Has many
variations.
Uses: Used for men's and women's suits, lightweight coats and sportswear.
Shatush
This is one of the finest textiles. It is created from white, silver or gray hair of wild goats. The supply of this
hair is very limited so the textile is very rare. It is one of the most expensive fabrics in the world.
Sheer
Fiber: Any fiber.
Weave: Mostly plain but could be various weaves.
Characteristics: Any
very light-weight fabric (e.g. chiffon, georgette, Voilé, sheer Crêpe). Usually has an open weave, very thin;
diaphanous. They mostly feel cool.
Middle English schere, probably via dialect shire ‘pure, clear’ from Old English scºr, from Germanic
Shetland
Fiber: Wool from Shetland sheep in Scotland. Sheep have a coarse outer coat and a very fine undercoat
which gives added warmth. The best is the undergrowth. It is not shorn but pulled out by hand in the spring.
Other wools sometimes called Shetland if they have a similar appearance.
Weave: Twill, plain, or
knitted.
Characteristics: Has a very soft hand and a shaggy finish of protruding fibers. - a pulled
wool; the soft undergrowth of the Shetland sheep. Very lightweight and warm. Much is made by hand and
comes in distinctive soft coloring. Often the natural colors ranging from off-white, various grays to almost
black and brown are used and not dyed. Real Shetland wools are expensive, high quality products. - In the
same family group as homespun, tweed and cheviot.
Uses: Coats, suits, and sportswear for both
men and women. Fine Shetlands are made into fine shawls, underwear crochet, work and hosiery.
Shot
woven so as to show different colors at different angles
Shot taffeta
Usually plain weave, woven with one color in the warp and another color in the filling, which gives the
fabric an iridescent look. If fabric is moved in the light this color changes. Silk version of chambray.
Shuttle
The boat-like device that carries the filling yarn wound on the bobbin, which sees in the shuttle from a
shuttle box on one side of the faceplate of the loom through the shed. and into a shuttle box at the other
side of the loom. Filling interlaces with the warp yarns to make weaving possible.
Silk
It is obtained from cocoons of certain species of caterpillars. It is soft and has a brilliant sheen. It is one of
the finest textiles. It is also very strong and absorbent.
Silk is one of the oldest known textile fibers and, according to Chinese tradition, was used as long ago as
the 27th century BC. The silkworm moth was originally a native of China, and for about 30 centuries the
gathering and weaving of silk was a secret process, known only to the Chinese.
Simulated linen fabrics
Various rayons, cottons, synthetics, and blends are woven with threads of uneven thickness to simulate
linen. They lack the cool, firm, yet soft feel of linen. Their irregularities are too even when seen beside real
linen.
Sisal
Sisal is one of a group of fibers obtained from the leaves of plants. It is obtained from a plant that belongs to
the Agave family and is raised in Mexico, especially in the Yucatan peninsula. The fiber is also cultivated in
Africa, Java, and some areas of South America. Sisal can be dyed bright colors, by means of both cotton
dyes and acid dyes normally used for wool. It is important in the manufacture of such items as matting,
rough handbags, ropes and cordage and carpeting.
Slipper satin
Strong, compactly woven with quite a bit of body. It is used chiefly for footwear. Textures are high and the
material comes colored, black or white, or richly brocaded effects. - Shiniest satin.
Slub
1) verb To draw out and twist slightly after carding or silvering, as wool or cotton.
2) noun The partially twisted wool or the like produced by slubbing.
3) noun Yarn made with bunches of untwisted fibers at intervals.
Slubbed
See Slub.
Slubs
See Slub.
Souffle
Soufflé:
Fiber: Wool, also rayon and silk.
Weave: any weave - usually a novelty - plain warp,
novelty filling or reverse.
Characteristics: Derived from the French term eponge for "spongy". Very
soft and sponge-like in a variety of novelty effects with loose weave of about 20 x 20. Also known as
ratine in cotton. Rayon and silk is soft, loose, and spongy, something like terry cloth. Does not have surface
loops. Many stores now call eponge "boucle".
Uses: Suits, dresses, coats, sportswear, and
summer suits.
Spandex
It is an elastomeric fiber (a type of polyurethane) that can be stretched up to five times its original length
without being damaged. It is lightweight and flexible. It resists deterioration from perspiration, detergent ad
body oils. It is characterized by its strength and durability.
Uses: Main uses are athletic wear and
foundation garments.
arbitrary formation from EXPAND
Spinning
This final operation in yarn manufacture consists of the drawing, twisting, and the winding of the newly
spun yarn onto a device such as a bobbin, spindle, cop, tube, etc. Spinning requires great care by all
operatives involved. Mule and ring spinning are the two major methods today, and in addition to being spun
on these methods, worsted yard is also spun on the cap and flyer flame methods of producing finished
spun yarn.
Spun rayon
Fiber: Rayon.
Weave: Plain.
Characteristics: Simulated cotton or wool made with staple
fibers in a continuous strand to give this effect. Wears well and is washable. Made in different weights.
Comes in plain colors and prints. Has soft, fuzzy surface. Blends well with cotton.
Uses:
Dresses, suits, sportswear, men's shirts.
Suede cloth
Fiber: Wool, cotton, rayon, synthetics and blends.
Weave: Plain, twill, or knitted.
Characteristics: Napped on one side to resemble suede leather. Short, close nap gives a soft,
smooth hand. When made in cotton, it resembles duvetyne, but heavier.
Uses: Cleaning cloths,
gloves, linings, sports coats.
French (gants de) Suède ‘(gloves of) Sweden’
Suede leather
1 leather, esp. kidskin, with the flesh side rubbed to make a velvety nap. 2 (also suede-cloth) a woven
fabric resembling suede.
French (gants de) Suède ‘(gloves of) Sweden’
Sulfar
It is a nonconductive fiber that is retardant to flame. It has excellent resistance to a variety of damaging
chemicals and severe temperatures. This high-performance fiber retains its supreme strength, even in
unfavorable conditions.
Sunn
This bast fiber is obtained from the Crotalaria juncea plant. The fibers grow from 4 to 5 feet long and are
retted and prepared like other bast fibers. Sunn contains over 80% cellulose and is highly resistant to
moisture and mildew. This fiber is mainly produced in India although small amounts are grown in Uganda. It
is mainly used for cordage, rug yarns, and paper. In India it is also used for fish nets and is sometimes used
as a substitute for jute in bagging cloths.
Surah
Fiber: Silk, rayon, and synthetics.
Weave: Twill (2 up and 2 down).
Characteristics: Soft
and flexible. Lightweight and lustrous. Has a decided twill on the fabric. Wrinkles fairly easily. Underlining
helps to prevent this, as well as to prevent slipping at the seams. Some have a tendency to water spot.
Very similar to "foulard", but heavier.
Uses: Dresses, suits, ensembles, dresses and coats,
cravats, ties, scarves, blouses, jacket and coat linings.
T
Taffeta
Fiber: Silk, rayon, synthetics.
Weave: Usually plain with a fine cross rib.
Characteristics:
Lustrous silk or rayon fabric of plain weave. A cloth supposed to have originated in Iran (Persia) ad was
called "taftah" (a fine silk fabric) - (in 16th century, became a luxury for women's wear). It is made in plain
colors, fancy prints, watered designs, and changeable effects. It is smooth with a sheen on its surface.
The textures vary considerably. They have a crispness and stiffness. Taffeta in silk will not wear, as long
as other high quality silks, since weighting is given the fabric to make it stiff. If it is overweighted, the goods
will split or crack.
Uses: All kinds of after 5 wear, dressy evening wear: suits and coats, slips,
ribbons, blouses, umbrella fabric. It is quite a dressy fabric.
From Persian taftah silken or linen cloth
Tapestry
A heavy jacquard fabric usually multicolored. Warps and filling very tightly woven. The designs vary from
traditional to contemporary. Used for upholstery only.
Taslan toile de jouy
A floral or scenic design usually printed on cotton or linen. Originally printed in Jouy, France, the fabrics
were printed in single colors from engraved copper plates. The designs were characterized by classic
motifs beautifully engraved and finely colored. Today, some are multicolored.
Terry cloth
Fiber: Cotton and some linen.
Weave: Pile, also jacquard and dobby combined with pile.
Characteristics: Either all over loops on both sides of the fabric or patterned loops on both sides.
Formed with an extra warp yarn. Long wearing, easy to launder and requires no ironing. May be bleached,
dyed, or printed. Better qualities have a close, firm, underweave, with very close loops. Very absorbent,
and the longer the loop, the greater the absorbency. When the pile is only on one side, it is called "Turkish
toweling".
Uses: Towels, beachwear, bathrobes, all kinds of sportswear, children's wear, slip
covers, and draperies.
Tiking
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Usually twill (L2/1 or L3/1), some jacquard, satin, and dobby.
Characteristics: Very tightly woven with more warp than filling yarns. Very sturdy and strong,
smooth and lustrous. Usually has white and colored stripes, but some patterned (floral). Can be made
water-repellent, germ resistant, and feather-proof.
Uses: Pillow covers, mattress coverings,
upholstering and some sportswear. "Bohemian ticking" has a plain weave, a very high texture, and is
feather-proof. Lighter weight than regular ticking. Patterned with narrow colored striped on a white
background or may have a chambray effect by using a white or unbleached warp with a blue or red filling.
Tissue taffeta
Plain weave, very light weight and transparent.
Transparent velvet
Lightweight, very soft, draping velvet made with a silk or rayon back and a rayon pile.
Tricot
Fiber: Silk, rayon, synthetics.
Weave: Knit, warp knitted. Vertical Wales on surface and more or
less crosswise ribs on the back.
Characteristics: Has a thin texture, made from very fine or single
yarns. Glove silk is a double bar tricot (very run-resistant).
Uses: Underwear, sportswear, bathing
suits, gloves.
Tricotine
Fiber: Worsted, wool, rayon, blends with synthetics.
Weave: 63 twill, left to right (double).
Characteristics: Has a double twill rib on the face of the cloth. Has a very clear finish. It drapes
well, and tailors easily. Medium in weight. Has exceptional wearing qualities. Very much like cavalry twill,
but finer. In the same family as whipcords, coverts, and gabardines.
Uses: Men's and women's
suits and coats. It is also used for ski slacks in a stretch fabric.
Triple sheer
Heavier and flatter than sheers. Almost opaque. Many are made from "Bemberg", which wears, drapes,
and washes well. Sheers are used extensively for after 5 wear, as well as afternoon dresses in heavier
weights, and some coats, lingerie, curtains, trims, etc.
Tropical worsteds
Fiber: 100% worsted. If just called tropical, it can be made up in any fiber or blends of wool and a synthetic.
Weave: Plain and rather open weaves.
Characteristics: The yarns are very tightly
twisted and woven to permit a free circulation of air. It is lightweight ad is ideal for summer and tropical
wear. It has a clear finish. Wears and tailors very well.
Uses: Both men's and women's suits and
coats.
Tufting yarn
Hooked by needle into fabric structure usually at a very high speed developed initially for carpeting.
Recently developed for upholstery fabric.
Tulle
Fiber: Silk, nylon, cotton.
Weave: Gauze, knotted, leno, made on a lace machine.
Characteristics: a soft fine silk etc. net for veils and dresses. First made by Machine in 1768. Has
a hexagonal mesh and is stiff. It is difficult to launder. Comes is white and colors, and is very cool, dressy,
and delicate.
Uses: It is a stately type of fabric when used for formal wear, and weddings. It is
also used for ballet costumes and wedding veils.
Tulle, a town in SW France, where it was first made
Tussah
Fiber: Silk.
Weave: Usually plain but also in twill.
Characteristics: Made from wild or
uncultivated silkworms. It is coarse, strong, and uneven. Dull luster and rather stiff. Has a rough texture
with many slubs, knots, and bumps. It is ecru or tan in color and it is difficult to bleach. It usually doesn't take
an even dye color. Wears well and becomes more rough looking with wear. It wrinkles a little, but not as
much as some. Various weights. Appears in filament and staple form.
Uses: In lighter weights,
dresses. In heavier weights, coats and suits and ensembles.
Tweed
Fiber: Wool, also cotton, rayon, silk, linen, and synthetics.
Weave: Twill, novelty variations, or
plain.
Characteristics: It is the Scotch name for twill and originated along the banks of the Tweed
river, which separates England from Scotland. Sometimes known as "tweel". Sister-cloth of homespun
cheviot and Shetland. They are the same in texture, yarn, weight, feel, and use. Originally only made from
different colored stock-dyed fibers, producing various color effects. There are a wide range of rough
surfaced, sturdy fabrics. There are also some closely woven smoother, softer yarn fabrics, and many
monotone tweeds. May also be plaid, checked, striped, or other patterns. Does not hold a crease very well.
Uses: Wide range of suits, coats, and sportswear for men, women and children. Lighter weight, used for dresses.
Twill
· n. a fabric so woven as to have a surface of diagonal parallel ridges. · v.tr. (esp. as twilled adj.) weave
(fabric) in this way. VV twilled adj.
northern English variant of obsolete twilly from Old English twili (from twi- ‘double’), translating Latin bilix (as
BI-, licium ‘thread’)
U
Union cloth
A plain weave fabric made from two or more different fibers. most often a cotton warp and a linen filling.
Urena
This bast fiber comes from the Urena lobata plant. In its wild state it grows 3 to 7 feet high and when
cultivated can grow as tall as 13 feet. The fiber strands are cream colored and have a wonderful luster.
This fiber is mainly grown in the Congo area although small amounts are also raised in Brazil, India and the
Philippines. Urena has the same uses as jute.
Utrecht velvet
Originated in Utrecht, Holland where it was made of silk. It was pressed and crimped to produce a raised
effect. Today both mohair and silk are used.
V
Vair
Characteristics: Thought to be the fur of the squirrel, one of the most valuable furs of the middle
ages.
Velour
Fiber: Cotton, wool, or spun rayon.
Weave: Thick, plush pile, with a plain or satin ground, or
sometimes knitted.
Characteristics: The pile is characterized by uneven lengths (usually two)
which gives it a rough look. The two lengths of pile create light and shaded areas on the surface. A rather
pebbled effect. This type of velour was invented and made in Lyons, France, in 1844. "Velours" is the
French term for velvet. "Cotton velour" is simply cotton velvet.
Uses: Hats, dressing gowns,
dresses, waist-coats, upholstery. Now most commonly sold as knit velour.
French velours ‘velvet’ via Old French velour, velous from Latin villosus ‘hairy’, from villus: see VELVET
Velvet
Fiber: Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics, and a little wool and worsted.
Weave: Pile, made with an
extra warp yarn.
Characteristics: A closely woven fabric of silk, cotton, etc., with a thick short
pile on one side. Mostly made with a plain back but some with a twill. Some are made with a silk pile and a
rayon or cotton back. Comes in many types, qualities, and weights. Good velvet wears fairly well and is
inexpensive. The cheaper cloths give little service and look well only a few times before beginning to
deteriorate. Better velvet may be crush resistant, water resistant, and drapes well. Has to be handled with
care, and pressed on a velvet board. Cut all one way. For the maximum amount of depth in the color, cut
with the pile running up. it also wears better when cut this way. Velvet should be cut with very simple lines
in the garment, so not to destroy the beauty of the fabric. It has the tendency to add weight to the figure.
Uses: All types of evening wear, at home wear, draperies, upholstering.
Middle English via Old French veluotte from velu ‘velvety’, via medieval Latin villutus from Latin villus ‘tuft,
down’
Velvet satin
A satin weave is used as the base for this luxurious figured silk, made with a cut pile effect.
Velveteen
Fiber: Cotton, sometimes rayon.
Weave: Filling pile, very short.
Characteristics: Woven
with a extra filling yarn with either a plain or a twill back (twill back is the best). Warp yarns 80/inch - weft
ranges from 175 to 600 depending on the desired density of the pile. Mercerized with a durable finish.
Strong and takes hard wear. Poor quality rubs off. Some of it can be laundered. It is warm. Comes in all
colors, gradually piece dyed or may be printed. Has to be cut all one way. Press carefully, preferably on a
velvet board, or tumble dry after laundering (no pressing needed).
Uses: Children's wear,
dresses, coats, draperies, lounge wear, separates.
Venetian
Fiber: Worsted, wool worsted and wool, cotton.
Weave: 5 shaft satin, some in small repeat twill
weaves, in cotton, 8 shaft satin (warp face). 2 ply warp and single filling.
Characteristics: Clear
finish. Has a very good luster finish which resembles satin. Some has a slight nap. Wears well - similar
cloth has worsted warp and woolen filling.
Uses: In a good quality used for expensive suits for
women and sports jackets for men. Also used for fine coatings for both men and women. In cotton, it
resembles very heavy sateen and is used mostly for lining.
Vichy
Fiber: Cotton
Weave: Plain
Characteristics: The weave of this fabric is formed of
horizontal bands and vertical bands respectively in a light and strong variants of the same color.
Uses: Dress.
Vicuna
Vicuña, ruminant mammal belonging to the camel family. The animal is native to the Andes in South America,
and is a close relative of the llama. Vicuñas are small, slender animals with orange-red fur. They generally
roam in small herds and have never been successfully domesticated. They are much hunted for their hides
and for their wool, which is valued for weaving. The term vicuña is applied to the fabrics manufactured
from the wool of the animal, and also to textile fabrics made from the wool of the merino sheep in imitation
of natural vicuña. Such fabrics generally resemble serge in weave but are fuller and softer and have a
distinct nap. Textile industry uses the fibers to manufacture the softest coat cloth in the world.
Viscose
Viscose fabrics have a silky to matte luster with an elegant flowing drape. The natural effect of the colors
gives them an attractive look. Viscose is supple and has a softness that is comfortable to wear. As they
can absorb perspiration quite quickly, making them very skin-friendly, but with poor thermal
properties.
Cellulose, usually derived from tree trunks, is converted into a highly viscous state and spun
into a fiber by forcing it through spinneret holes.
Late Latin viscosus (as VISCOUS)
Vivyon
This is a non-toxic fiber with a high resistance to chemicals. It softens at low temperatures.
Viyella
Fiber: A blend of 55% wool and 45% cotton.
Weave: Twill.
Characteristics: Has the
appearance of very fine flannel. It is soft, fine, and warm. Holds a good pleat. Washable by machine. If
made up in a slim skirt for women, should be underlined, as it has not much body.
Uses: Excellent
for all kinds of children's and baby's wear, sportswear, men's and women's tailored shirts and dresses.
Trademark
Voile
Voilé:
Fiber: Cotton - also wool and called "Voilé de laine".
Weave: Plain, loosely woven.
Characteristics: A thin semi-transparent dress material of cotton, wool, or silk. Sheer and very light
weight. Usually made with cylindrical combed yarns. To obtain a top quality fabric, very highly twisted
yarns are used. Voilé drapes and gathers very well. The clear surface is obtained by singeing away any
fuzzy yarns. Has a hard finish and crisp, sometimes wiry hand. "Voilé de Laine" is wool Voilé.
Uses: Dresses, blouses, curtains.
French, = VEIL
W
Wale
1) A ridge or raised line formed in the weave of cloth.
2) The texture of a fabric; the kind of weave.
Old English walu weal, ridge.
Warp-print taffeta
Usually a plain weave, the warp yarns are printed before the filling is inserted. The fabric has a very fuzzy
design when design is distorted as fabric is woven.
Weasel
A common name for any of several small, furry, carnivorous mammals that are most abundant in North
America and Europe but also occur elsewhere.
Uses: The fur industry uses nearly all the species
of the weasel family in making coats, trimmings, capes etc. The textile industry uses large amounts of the
fine fibers.
Whipcord
Fiber: Worsted or woolen, also cotton and rayon.
Weave: Twill.
Characteristics: Very
much like gabardine, but the yarn is bulkier and much more pronounced. The twill is steep 63 degrees and
goes from left to right (except for cotton). It is very durable, rugged and stands hard usage and wear. In
time, it shines a bit with wear. Some times back is napped for warmth. So named because it simulates the
lash of a whip.
Uses: Topcoats, uniform cloths, suitings, sportswear, riding habits. In cotton, it is
also used for automobile seat covers and children's play suits.
Wool
This fiber is made from the hair of various animals such as sheep, llamas, camels and goats. It is very
resilient and resistant to wrinkling. It is renewed by moisture and well known for its warmth.
Uses:
Clothing, blankets, winter wear.
Middle English wole
Wool broadcloth
Fiber: Wool. Also cotton and silk but very different from wool broadcloth.
Weave: Usually a twill
with a two up and one down construction. Some also in the plain weave.
Characteristics: Has a
napped face, closely sheared and polished, producing a silky gloss - in same group of fabrics as kersey,
beaver cloth, melton. One way nap, must be handled like velvet when cutting. It comes in a variety of colors
and weights. It is "dressy" fabric and must be handled with care - form fitting and drapes well.
Wool flannel
Weave: Usually twill, some plain.
Characteristics: Originated in Wales. Soft, with a
napped surface that partially cancels the weave. Dull finish. Made in a variety of weights. More loosely
woven than worsted_flannel with a higher nap and bulkier hand. Shrinks if not pre-shrunk. Sags with
wear, unless underlined. Does not shine or hold a crease. Watch pressing - if pressed too hard, it flattens
in the nap. Comes in many colors, weights, and fancy effects. Sometimes has a prickly feel when worn.
Uses: Blazers, dresses, skirts, suits and coats. Boys suits, jackets, and shirts. Shirts and sportswear.
Wool jersey
Fiber: Wool, worsted, silk, cotton, rayon, and synthetics.
Weave: Knitted on circular, flat-bed or
warp knitted methods (later popular as a tricot-knit).
Characteristics: Right side has lengthwise ribs
(Wales) and wrong side has crosswise ribs (courses). Very elastic with good draping qualities. Has
special crease-resistant qualities due to its construction. Is knitted plain or has many elaborate tweed
designs and fancy motifs as well as printed designs. Can look very much like woven fabric. Wears very
well and if washable, it washes very well. First made on the Island on Jersey off the English coast and
used for fisherman's clothing. Stretch as you sew.
Uses: Dress goods, sportswear, suits,
underwear, coats, gloves, sweaters, hats.
Worsted
Wool
(1) Firmly swisted yarn or thread spun from combed long-staple wool, used for weaving, etc.
(2) wool cloth woven from such yarns, having a hard smooth surface and no nap.
Named after ME Worsted, parish in Norfolk, England.
Worsted flannel
Weave: Twill
Characteristics: Made in a variety of weights. More closely woven and
harder than Wool_Flannel. Can have a very slight nap on one side. Tailors very well. Presses well and
holds a hard crease.
Uses: Men's suits, jackets and trousers. Women's coats, suits, skirts, and
tailored dresses.
Y
Yarns
In order to weave a fabric, the fiber or blend of fibers must first be made into a yarn. Yarns vary in size and
shape, both of which have an effect on the appearance of the fabric.
Z
Zephyr
The quality of the textile is airy and can be found today in wool, cotton and manufactured fibers.
Its name comes from the ancient God of the Winds Zephrus
Zibeline
Fiber: Wool from cross-bred yarns.
Weave: Satin.
Characteristics: The fabric is napped
then steamed and pressed. The nap is long and lies in one direction. It is very lustrous and sleek. It may or
may not be given a soft finish and feel. It is usually strong colored and sometimes stripings (removal of
color) is noted in the cloth. Named for the "zibeline" a small animal found in Siberia. It belongs to the sable
family and has fine black fur.
Uses: Coats, cloaks, capes and winter suits for women.
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