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  • Perfect for spring

    With the season finally starting to change, I've been in search of more transitional fabric.  Fabric that's not too warm but still reminds me of spring.  Lucky for me I happened upon my new warmer weather favorite, this double face suiting that reminds me of a slightly heavier linen that moves beautifully.  It sews, cuts and irons with ease and it's like getting two fabrics in one with one side black/olive and the other side brown/olive.  My only regret is not getting more because it will make an amazing dress or pants. The top was made using my latest McCall 7580 pattern found here. The pants were made several months ago using this cotton woven and Burdastyle 6981 with alterations. Details found here.        
  • Mood Style: Vetements-Inspired, Eco-Friendly Sweatshirt

    I am loving the athleisure wear trend. We get to be super comfy, AND look incredibly chic? Why didn't we decide this was cool sooner?
    To bring some runway inspiration into this DIY project, I decided to take a look at some Vetements looks. Their oversized sleeves and cropped sweatshirts create some interesting silhouettes, and they manage to make a classic hoodie just a little more fashion-forward.
    Fabrics & materials used:
    The sweatshirt itself is fairly easy to put together. You can trace an old sweatshirt to make your pattern pieces. In this case, I actually traced a slightly oversized t-shirt, since I knew this was going to be a little more fitted than your typical pullover.
    The part I was a little worried about was the neckline, but it ended up being super simple.
    First, I measured around the unfinished neck of the sweatshirt and multiplied the number by .9.
    This would give me 90% of the original measurement, to account for ease. So while the neckline of my sweatshirt measured in at 23", I cut the trim to about 21" and sewed it to the wrong side of the collar. I then encased the raw edges in French seams.
    To make yours lie a little flatter, you could cut it shorter or add side seams instead of one seam in the center back.
    To go along with the deconstructed look that's been popular recently, I left the seams around the armholes exposed.
    This fabric was a joy to work with. It's face is incredibly smooth, and the fleece backing is beyond soft. I'm definitely going to be getting some of the other colors to make more of these in the future.
    What about you? Will you be trying a project like this?
  • Mood DIY: Free Overall Sewing Pattern

    The temperature has officially hit 70, which means the winter is behind us and I'm refusing to look back. Some high-waisted shorts seemed appropriate for today's DIY, but once I saw that the patchwork denim was so darn cute I knew I wanted to use more of it. Two hours later, I had a pair of overalls!


    Fabrics & materials used: Steps:
    1. Begin by sewing the front shorts panels to their respective side panels, and repeat for the back.
    2. Attach the two front halves of your shorts at the rise (the center seam that typically holds the zipper). Again, repeat for the back.
    3. To attach the front and back of your shorts, sew along the inseam, as well as about halfway up the sides. The remainder of the sides will be sewn when you insert the zipper.
    4. Here, you can decide the desired length of your shorts and add the cuffs along the bottom hem.
    5. I finished the bodice pieces and straps with simple rolled hems. Another option would be decorative binding, piping, or trim.
    6. Once the edges are finished, sew your bodice panels into the top of your front and back waistbands.
    7. Sew your waistband pieces over the top of your shorts.
    8. Insert a zipper on either size of your shorts, beginning at the waistband.
    9. Lastly, sew your straps onto the back of your overalls.For the front, it's best to use no-sew overall buckles. They don't take any extra tools, which is a plus. The backing pierces through the fabric and is covered by the button, which snaps into place. The hook part is attached to the strap by simply sliding it on if you'd like it to stay adjustable. You can also hand-stitch it into place if you'd prefer.
    What are your thoughts on the recent overall trend? Will you be making a pair of your own?
  • Perfect little stripes

    90% of the time Chandler's look is a result of leftover fabric from my look.  So I'm going to blame all this adorableness on these embroidered flowers that could find no other home than paired with this amazing Oscar de la Renta silk wool.  Unfortunately, the flowers are sold out but here are some beautiful alternatives.  Now let's just talk about the fabric.........This is one of those fabric choices that look pretty average online but absolutely stunning in person.  It's a medium weight beautifully made fabric with somewhat of a sheen.  Everything about it looks designer.  It sews beautifully, irons nicely and would look great as a top, dress or skirt. The pattern used for this dress was my bell sleeve pattern found here.    
  • Mood DIY: Free One-Piece Swimsuit Sewing Template

    With March finally behind us, I am officially thinking about nothing but the beach. I've always been a bit terrified to try my hand at swimwear, but I knew I'd have to make something with this amazing zebra tricot. A surprisingly easy-to-make body suit ensued!
    Fabrics & materials used:
    I began by draping the fabric right on the dress form. I love the more retro shape to the bottom and the deep V neckline. Two thick pleats at the shoulders also gave the suit faux lapels in lieu of bust darts. Since I don't typically work with swimwear, I can only include a template of the pattern I created. My model has a 28" waist, so it's roughly a US size 10. You can download a PDF below!


      I began by sewing the two front panels together, starting at the bottom and ending about halfway toward the top. Each shoulder was pleated before being attached to the back of the swimsuit. Once it was attached at the bottom as well, I had the outside of the suit mostly constructed, with the exception of the sides. Before closing the sides up, I needed to attach the lining. I began by sewing it to the arm and leg holes, like you can see below. Leaving the neckline still open, I sewed the lining into the sides of the suit by closing each side with French seams. Lastly, I slip-stitched around the entire neckline by hand to be sure the lining fit inside the zebra tricot perfectly. I love that bodysuits are so on trend right now. This can be worn at the beach or to a casual night out with some tights and denim shorts. It's giving off some serious 80's summer vibes!
  • Mood Style: African Print Detachable Skirt

    African prints have been taking the fashion world by storm the last couple of years and once you lay eyes on their beautiful shapes, vibrant colors, and gorgeously bold patterns, it's not difficult to see why. For today's DIY I decided to hop on this trend with a skirt that can easily transition from every wear to a glamorous, couture look.
    Fabrics & materials used:
    First I wanted to make a simple, chic pencil skirt. They're so versatile and can be worn anywhere - out to dinner or simply out shopping, depending on how it's styled. I followed view C of McCall's pattern 3830. Pockets were a necessary alteration. How can you have a skirt with no pockets? Below is a template of the shape I used. I placed the diagonal line of the pocket's opening along one of the diagonals of the skirt 's print in order to make the pockets fairly unnoticeable. The fun part of this project was a detachable skirt! A pencil skirt can be worn everywhere, but this part of the ensemble can be worn a million different ways. Throw it over your bathing suit for an adorable cover up, pair it with some denim shorts for a casual summer look, or keep it with the matching pencil skirt to take it from cute to couture. To create the shape of the skirt, I began much like I would be making a basic circle skirt. However, I added 5" to my waist measurements to account for the two pleats I knew I'd be placing toward the front of the skirt. Instead of making an even circle all the way around, I created more of an oval shape to create the hi-low silhouette. The back of my skirt is about 45", while the sides are 22". I connected the points with a freehand curve, like you see in the above diagram. The fabric was just a few inches too short along the width to make the skirt all one piece, so I cut two sides and gave the skirt a seam down the back. The skirt was lined with a simple poly lining, and the waistband was a 3" wide rectangle of the same fabric. A couple of sew-on snaps completed the garment and it was ready to wear! Are you going to be trying this project on your own? Which print will you be using?
  • Neoprene ruffles

    A couple of years ago I fell madly in love with neoprene, and not your normal run of the mill neoprene but the neoprene that's disguised as a sweatshirt in the form of this jersey back neoprene.  As soon as I spotted it on moodfabrics.com I knew it would be the best fitting most comfortable fabric ever.  It fits beautifully and is extremely easy to work with.  No need to iron and as long as you use a rotary blade, you can keep the edges raw. The pattern I used for the skirt was the instructions from this neoprene self-drafted pencil skirt, with the following alterations: -Removed the zipper (this fabric is comfortable enough to go without -Added a ruffle hem by cutting two pieces of fabric 6"x34".  Sew the left and the right side together and attach to the bottom of the skirt by pleating as you go around. -Top stitch the waist band and where the ruffle meets the skirt.   The top was made using McCall's M6992 with the following alterations: -Added 1" to the height of the neck -Removed 9" from the bottom of the pattern -Added a 1"x20.5" ribbed neck band -Added a 1.5" ribbed sleeve cuff -Cut a 4" curve from the front of the sweatshirt and add a 6"x40" pleated ruffle to the hem -Added a 8"x45" pleated ruffle to the back of the sweatshirt -Added a 20" pleated ruffle to the seam of the sleeve seam of the right side of the shirt and a 12" ruffle to the left side. -Double needle top stitch all the seams   neoprene ruffles4 neoprene and ruffles neoprene and ruffles2 neoprene ruffles3 neoprene ruffles5 grey ruffle neoprene6
  • Mood DIY: Button Size Chart

    Enjoy this free button size chart for all your DIY needs! Print it out and hang it in your own sewing studio, or keep it in your tool kit. What's your favorite type of button to work with? Tell us in the comments below!
  • Mood DIY: Eye Button Shirt Embellishment

    Need a new idea to make that button-up shirt you're working on just a little more eye-catching? This DIY can by sewists and crafters alike! Sewing up your own shirt is an added plus so you can size the placket a little wider than usual. However, if garment creation isn't your usual forte, you can get the same look with an old blouse, some new buttons, and a jar of fabric paint! Fabrics & materials used: If you're simply altering a shirt you already own, be sure to choose buttons to match the buttonholes that already exist. If you're making your shirt yourself, sew your buttonholes and attach your buttons before you start on the eyes. Once those are in place, button your shirt up. Using your temporary marking tool, sketch an almond shape so that it fits around the top and bottom of the button. Repeat for each button. I used the skinniest brush in the pack, with a small dot of paint to trace over the eyes with Jacquard Textile paint. If you've never used it before, it works absolute wonders. It moves with your fabric without stiffening it too much, goes on evenly, and is machine washable. I let my shirt dry for about 20 minutes and then it was all set to wear! Before this project, I had never thought about embellishing a shirt placket, but now I want to do it to everything! What other button embellishment ideas can you come up with?
  • Mood DIY: Free Flared Button Up Shirt Pattern

    Even if there's 2 feet of snow outside, I have my sights set on spring. I'm ready for floral prints and lighter fabrics, so today I got a jump start on a wardrobe for the new season. Mood's new silk charmeuses were perfect for this longline, flared button-up! The large-scale print suits the length of the blouse and the weight lends itself to a gorgeous drape. Fabrics & materials used: To keep the shirt light and draped, I opted against a lining. Because of this, French seams were a must in order to keep the silk from fraying. I began the shirt construction by attaching the front and back panels of the shirt at the sides and shoulders. Next, both front panels needed plackets for the buttons. Each one was interfaced and stitched onto the wrong side of the shirt itself, like you can see above. To avoid visible stitches on the front of the placket, I folded mine over and slip-stitched it into place. I added a single box pleat at the center back before attaching the collar the same way I attached the plackets.In this case, the collar was sewn to the right side of the shirt and slip-stitched on the wrong side. Since the shirt remained unlined, I finished the armholes with 1/4" binding that I made from the same silk as the rest of the blouse. I didn't want any buttons to be visible, so I hand sewed 8 snaps along the inside of the placket. This also omitted the need for buttonholes, which was an added bonus! This pattern is one of my favorites, since it can be altered so many ways - shortened, lengthened, made with a different fabric type entire, sleeves could be easily added. It's versatility is terrific. Are you going to be making any changes when you try it out?
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