We’re typically busting out free patterns left and right here at Mood, but sometimes it’s nice to go back to a quick and easy DIY, where tons of paper and printing isn’t required. This pleated garment is fairly reminiscent of your typical rectangle skirt, with one super helpful difference: the fabric is already pleated! From cutting the fabric to finishing the hem, this adorable DIY takes just an hour to complete – that is if everything goes accordion to plan. And since Mood’s accordion pleated fabrics now come in both chiffon and satin, your wardrobe options just doubled!
Fabrics & materials used:
- 3 yards Kelly Green Pleated Stretch Fabric
- 1/2 yard Black Satin-Faced Multicolor Floral Jacquard
- Optional: 1/2 yard Black Single-Faced Woven Interfacing
- 9″ Black Invisible Zipper
- Black Sticky Draping Tape
First, estimate more fabric than you think you’ll need. This particular fabric is sold by the yard with the fabric flat, not pleated; so even if you may only need 30″ for your skirt, you may need to purchase 3 or so yards.
Next, measure your waist and then add 1.5″ to the measurement; one inch for seam allowance, and another half inch for wearing ease. Cut a piece of draping tape to the final measurement and fold the pleats of your fabric closed and place the tape along the selvage of your fabric, about and inch or so from the edge like you see above. On either side of your tape, cut a straight line down from selvage to selvage.
Using the same measurement from your draping tape for the length, cut a 4″ wide rectangle for your waistband. Depending on what kind of fabric you’re using, you may want to interface it.
With the right sides of your fabric together, sew the waistband along the selvage of your fabric and pull off the draping tape. Connect the two ends of your skirt by inserting an invisible zipper halfway down your waistband. The remaining half of your waistband will be folded over toward the inside of your garment and slip-stitched into place, with the raw edges tucked in.
Finish off the center back seam of your skirt with a French seam, sewing wrong sides of your fabric together first (as shown above), followed by resewing the same seam with the faces of your fabric together.
Lastly, try on your skirt and cut exactly to your desired length. There’s no need to roll or bind your hem, since that would ruin your pleats. Instead, simply pull your fabric flat and use a zig-zag stitch along the very edge of your hem.
15 comments
I love this and cannot wait to make one in a lovely emerald green for fall! Are there any solid fabrics available that you would suggest for use as a waistband. I love the ribbon look of the jacquard, but I want my piece to be as versatile as possible.
Definitely! You could easily go with a solid satin instead. I know Mood has some polyester options that would just as well if you interface them 🙂
Hey Courtney, I would love to make this a tiered pleated skirt–– any tips on how to estimate out how many yards of fabric I’ll need for that?
Hi, Sarah! The fabric width is 59″, so depending on how long your tiers will be, you can likely get 2 tiers for each length. For each length, you’ll want to do 3-4 times your waist measurement. So for a 3 or 4 layered skirt, you’ll want 6-8 times your waist. I hope that makes sense!
Hi Courtney…did you pre-wash this pleated satin before constructing? I’m not sure if you can wash pleated fabric.
Thank you!
Hi Leslie! Yes, the pleating is permanent, so you can wash it. 🙂
Thank you!
Do you have any tips or a pattern to make wide leg accordion pleated pants with your fabric.?
We do have a tutorial for them here!
Hi, If one were to make this skirt with the pleated chiffon, how much lining fabric would I need? Thank you for the beautiful inspiration (free) pattern!
Hi Vanessa – If you’re not going to pleat the lining, you could to a half circle skirt for the lining. Mood has a super helpful calculator so you can find exactly how much fabric you’ll need!
Hey Courtney, could this be made with a wide elastic waist band instead of the regular waistband & zipper. ?
Hi Louisa! Once the pleats are sewn down, there isn’t a whole lot of stretch in the satin, even if a stretch stitch is used. You could make the skirt wider than your hips and then cinch it with elastic, but then it’ll be pleated as well as slightly gathered – which could look cool! But it won’t lay totally the same as the skirt above. I hope that helps!
That does help a lot. Thank you!
This is beautiful and exactly what I’m looking for. Thank you for the instructions!!!