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  • Cold Shoulder

    A few weeks ago I needed a last minute little black dress.  When moments like this occur, I have a limited amount of time and typically stick to what I know best.  That means fabric I'm familiar with and patterns that don't require 50 fittings. The first fabric to pop into my mind was this black textural blended silk.  There aren't enough words to describe how much I love this fabric.  My only complaint is that it isn't available in multiple colors.  It sews, irons and cuts like a dream, and with lots of movement and body, it makes for the perfect little black dress. This dress was made using Butterick 5948 shirt pattern view D with the following alterations: -Added 10" to the length -Added 1" to the width of the front and back pattern starting under the sleeve to the waist -Added 4" to the width of the front and back pattern starting at the waist to the hem -Faced the arms and the neck -Added a 9" invisible zipper -Remove the cap off the sleeve pattern.  Fold the top edge of the sleeve over 1" and sew -Attach the upper part of the sleeve to the bottom of the arm hole -Cut two pieces of fabric 36"x3" serge the edges, tie into a bow and attach the bow to the top of the sleeve. mood beautejadore9 beautejadore2 beautejadore10 beautejadore11 beautejadore12 beautejadore13 beautejadore14
  • Mood Cosplay: Free GotG2 Star-Lord Jacket Pattern

    You can't defend the galaxy in just anything. To celebrate Superhero Day, as well as the upcoming release of Guardians of the Galaxy Vol 2., I recreated Star-Lord's newest jacket. The best part? There's a free template, so you can make your own, look fabulous, and start kicking some alien butt!


    (The template is roughly a men's large, with a 40" chest.)

    Fabrics & materials used:  

    1. Paint Mixing

    Once all of the pattern pieces are cut out, you can start painting. Be sure to have everything in one place, sorted for light red and dark red. Also, don't be stingy with your paint mixing. You don't want to run out and risk making a slightly different shade with your next batch.   Light Red
    • 1 - Sleeve Top
    • 3 - Sleeve Bottom
    • 4 - Back Yoke
    • 5 - Center Back
    • 7 - Center Front Top
    • 8 - Center Front Bottom
    • 10 - Front Yoke
    • 11 - Front Zipper Flap (1)
    • 13 - Jacket Waistband
    • All belts
    Dark Red
    • 2 - Elbow Band
    • 6 - Side Back
    • 9 - Side Front
    • 11 - Front Zipper Flap (1)
    • 12 - Shoulder Armor
    • 14 - Jacket Collar
    • 15 - Forearm Armor
    I did a lot of mix testing and found that a good ratio for the light red was one entire bottle of Fire Red, mixed with about 2 teaspoons of Black. The paint will look a lot brighter and more saturated while it's still wet. It will also show a lot of brush strokes, but after only two coats, I couldn't even tell the faux leather had been painted. The color was smooth and even.  

    2. Sleeve Ribbing

    Before painting the elbow bands, I tried to decide how I wanted to imitate the ribbing on Star-Lord's jacket. My first test was encasing some cording withing the faux leather using an invisible zipper foot. The results ended up being fairly similar to simple pintucks, so I decided to go the pintuck route and skip the extra steps. To make your own pintucks without a special sewing machine foot, simply fold over your faux leather 1/4", keep the left side of your foot aligned with the last tuck and the right side aligned with the edge of your fabric. I put 18" pintucks on either of my panels, and then gave it a coat of paint.  

    3. Decorative Stitching

    Star-Lord's jacket has decorate stitching in a few areas, namely pattern pieces 5, 7, and 10, as well as the upper and lower shoulder armor. Before beginning to construct your jacket, follow the stitching lines on each of these pattern pieces.  

    4. Inserting Snaps

    Before getting into the construction details, I wanted to take a minute to discuss adding snaps. The plier kit from Dritz makes it super easy. The black rubber side has a sharp extender that can puncture your fabric for you. For some of the thicker layers, you can also use an awl or a seam ripper to make the puncture a little larger if need be. The flat side of the snap gets inserted through the puncture in your fabric and the other side is inserted into the rubber part of the pliers. Once the pliers are shut, the extender bends the metal of the snap to secure both pieces into place. Super quick, and incredibly easy!  

    6. Jacket Construction

    A. The Torso

    I added an extra 1/8" of seam allowance in order to sew French seams when I cut out my pattern pieces. If you're not familiar with how to do them, sew your pieces wrong sides together and trim your seam allowances, like you see above, and then sew the same pieces with the right sides together as you normally would. This encases any raw edges within the seam and sometimes eliminates the need for a lining. To start constructing your jacket, sew the CENTER FRONT TOP (7) to the FRONT YOKE (10). After completing a French seam, I chose to top-stitch them down, like you see in the photo above. Repeat with your CENTER FRONT TOP (7) and CENTER FRONT BOTTOM (8). The next step is a little tricky, since you'll need to do a few things at once. Ultimately, you'll want to sew the SIDE FRONT (9) to the CENTER FRONT TOP and BOTTOM (7 & 8). I recommend clipping the corner of (7), like you see above, and folding the fabric under. Temporarily secure it with wonder clips. The reason you don't want to attach it to your SIDE FRONT (9) yet, is that you'll need to add two snaps and side belts to the CENTER FRONT BOTTOM (8). Sew the belts into place first, keeping the fabric folded over. Add in your snaps, and then you can attach everything to your SIDE FRONT (9) using a tucked seam. The backside of the jacket is much easier to assemble. Sew your two CENTER BACK (5) pieces together before attaching them to the BACK YOKE (4). The SIDE BACK (6) panels go on much easier than their counterparts in the front, since there are no more belts in the back. Sew the back of your jacket to front at either shoulder, and at each of the side seams. Be sure to sew the front side belts securely into the side seams, like above.  

    B. The Sleeves

    The sleeves have a whole lot of detail - armor at the shoulders, quilted armor on the forearm, and of course the ribbing at the elbows. Before putting everything together, make sure these individual pieces have all of their stitching complete. For the forearm patch, I spaced my stitches 3/4" apart. Once the stitching is complete, insert the it onto the SLEEVE BOTTOM (3). Sew two SHOULDER ARMOR (12) pieces, right sides together, leaving the top open to turn right-side out. Top-stitch around the perimeter and stay-stitch it into place on the SLEEVE TOP (1). Sew your SLEEVE TOP (1), ELBOW BAND (2), and SLEEVE BOTTOM (3) together respectively. Once all the details are done, the sleeves can be attached to the torso. Be sure to clip your seam allowances before completing your seams.  

    C. Collar & Waistband

    Insert one of your waistband pieces to the bottom of your jacket and one of your collar pieces along the neckline. Clip both seam allowances. Sew the second collar piece to the first, only along the top seam. Do the same with the second waistband piece, but along the very bottom seam. Pin your zipper along the center front seam, aligning it with the bottom of the waistband first. It should just reach the bottom of your collar, but if it's a little too long be sure to shorten it from the top. Sew your zipper into place, flip it inward along the waistband and collar linings, and top-stitch. I personally stay-stitched the rest of the waistband and collar linings before top-stitching, but the could also be just be pinned.  

    D. The Details

    At this point you should have your jacket almost completely constructed. Add your two arm belts to the bottom of the shoulder armor. Here is where you can also attach the second should armor pieces. I personally chose to leave mine off so the jacket can be (a little) more suitable for everyday wear, but I did include the pieces in the template! Last, you'll need to add the FRONT ZIPPER FLAP (11). The darker red should go on the inside so it's seen when it's flipped open. This is also the side where the flat part of the snaps should go. You can see in the image below that I accidentally placed them facing the opposite way (oops!). Stay-stitch the flap in place, flip it over the zipper, and top-stitch. Your jacket should now be complete to protect you as you guard our galaxy! There are a couple details that could be added to make it a little more screen accurate. For example, I know there are sleeve belts along the wrists, as well as a zipper under the arm. I'm sure I'll notice more things to add when I see the movie, but for that we'll need to wait until next week!
  • Mood DIY: How to Sew a Puppy Raincoat

    The rain can be rough on all of us, including our little puppy companions. Why not make it easier on them? This super easy DIY puppy poncho can be sewn together in about an hour, and it'll make those dreaded rainy day walks a little easier on everyone. Fabrics & materials used: All you need for this project are two large ovals (the length of your pet + the length of their chest, with a hole cut 1/3 of the way in to fit their head), two 4" strips (the length of their waist + 2"), four side hood panels (the curve should measure from the base of the neck to about 2"-3" past the ears), and two 2" center hood strips (the same length of the curve on your hood panels). Begin by sewing two of your side hood panels to either side of a center hood panel. I tapered mine slightly so it would be smaller at the neck, but this is optional. Be sure to clip your seam allowances, especially along any curves. This ensures that your seams will lay flat, without any unwanted pulling or ruching. Repeat for the lining, and then attach your lining and outer layer along the front of the hood, right sides together. Turn right-side out, iron, and top-stitch, like below. Pin and stay-stitch the hood along the neckline of the right side of your outer later. Be sure to put it toward the back side, which will be the longer end of the oval, facing forward. Your lining and outer layer can then be pinned with right sides together, like you see above. Leave about 4" open on either side; this is how you'll close the neckline. Turn the jacket right-side out, and pull the neckline through the 4" opening you left. You should be able to place the right sides of the neckline together and sew about halfway around the circle. Repeat through the opposite 4" opening to complete the neckline. Once you've fully sewn around the circle, clip your seams again, press, and top-stitch. Lastly, pin along the openings left in the sides of your pet's poncho, and top-stitch along the jacket's entire circumference. As an optional addition for those especially windy days, I also created a little belt. To make your own, sew two strips together, leaving a small opening at one of the short ends. Turn it right-side out, top-stitch, and add a couple strips of Velcro! Warning: rain may cause sleepiness.
  • Mood Style: Easy-to-Sew Laminated Lace Raincoat

    It seems like 90% of my new projects stem from not being able to find exactly what I'm looking for in the store. It's so difficult to find a raincoat that isn't either dark and dismal, or banana yellow.
  • Luckily, Mood had the perfect thing. This gorgeous laminated lace is completely waterproof, surprisingly easy to work with, and largely transparent (which meant, I could make my jacket whatever color I wanted). Hello, adorable mint green raincoat!
  • Fabrics & materials used: The only downside to the jacket pattern I used was that it didn't include a hood. Since I obviously wanted to be able to use this in the rain, I drafted my own easy pattern, which you can download below!


    In lieu of a normal lining, where I would essentially make two coats and sew them together, I chose to sew  my lining along with the laminated lace, finishing off the seams with some double fold bias tape, like you see below. In addition to binding all of the seams, I ironed out a few inches of bias tape to cover 4 buttons. Two were attached to the back to the belt, and the other two were added as closures to the front of the coat. Overall, the laminated lace was much easier to work with than expected. Rather than puncture the thin vinyl sheeting with a bunch of pins, I used Wonder Clips to get the job done. One rainy afternoon later and I had my new raincoat, complete with the perfect mint lining. What color lining are you going to pair with yours?
  • Trend Report: Fur in the Summer

    Fashion has always been about breaking the rules and experimenting with different looks. Even if that means wearing something in the summer that is meant to be worn in the winter. Fur, as well as faux fur, is becoming more and more season-less. Wearing fur in the summer doesn’t necessarily mean that it has to physically be on your body, accessories work just as well. In the fashion world today, social media is giving those who are interested in designing and creating different looks, the confidence to do something different. Here are a few different ways to wear fur in the hotter seasons. 1.Shoes Shoes with faux fur trim are the perfect way to accessorize and to compliment any type of outfit in the summer. From an extravagant engagement parties to a casual walk in the park. Having slides or sandals with fur trim will make you push the limits in the hot weather. Compliment this look with these fabrics from moodfabrics.com:
    Dark Brown Fur Fringe Trim - 4 Dark Brown Fur Fringe Trim - 4"
    White Genuine Finland Fox Fur Collar White Genuine Finland Fox Fur Collar
    Italian Red Ikat Floral Cotton Jacquard Italian Red Ikat Floral Cotton Jacquard
    2. Keychains For those of you who are not normally ones who would wear fur in the summer, there are still ways of making it work for you with anything that you wear. By having a cute pom keychain on your purse or even your keys, it adds a little flair to even the dullest set of car keys. Feeling inspired? Try these fabrics from moodfabrics.com:
    Red Real Fox Fur Ball Key Chains - 6.5" Red Real Fox Fur Ball Key Chains - 6.5"
    Royal Blue Ombre Real Fox Fur Ball Key Chains - 6.5" Royal Blue Ombre Real Fox Fur Ball Key Chains - 6.5"
    Gray Real Fox Fur Ball Key Chains - 6.5" Gray Real Fox Fur Ball Key Chains - 6.5"
    3. Fur Jackets Everyone knows that even though it gets super hot during the day in the summer, it always seems to get colder at night. Hence the reason why wearing a faux fur jacket during those cool summer nights is the perfect combination of comfort and style. Feeling inspired? Try these fabrics from moodfabrics.com:
    Small Toscana Winter White Lamb Fur Small Toscana Winter White Lamb Fur
    Small Denim-Washed Sand Baby Goat Fur Small Denim-Washed Sand Baby Goat Fur
    Small Toscana Powdered Blue Lamb Fur Small Toscana Powdered Blue Lamb Fur
    4. Handbags Faux fur has been a trend for the longest time and why not continue the trend? By not wearing the fur directly on your body and creating more heat, you can always compliment your outfit with a cute furry handbag at any occasion. Whether it be at a cocktail party or to go shopping, having a fuzzy handbag is the perfect accessory to match your fashion needs. Compliment this look with these fabrics from moodfabrics.com:
    Brown and Beige Leopard Printed Stretch Faux Fur Brown and Beige Leopard Printed Stretch Faux Fur
    Heather Almond Bamboo and Cotton Stretch Knit Fleece Heather Almond Bamboo and Cotton Stretch Knit Fleece
    Dusty Chestnut 100% Cotton Voile Dusty Chestnut 100% Cotton Voile
    5. Shrugs When going out for an extravagant night out, wearing a faux fur shrug can help a more elegant look of royalty and importance. This can dress up any type of dress or other article of clothing for a fun night out. Since it is only draped on your body, it still gives you the comfort of having fur as part of your ensemble. Feeling inspired? Try these fabrics from moodfabrics.com:
    Black Faux Luxury Shag Fur Black Faux Luxury Shag Fur
    Black Grooved Faux Beaver Fur Black Grooved Faux Beaver Fur
    6. Knitted Mink Vest If you are a person that does not care what others think, be confident and wear a knitted mink vest. I know what you're thinking, wearing a fur vest in the summer is crazy, but since the vest has a knitted design, this is perfect design to allow airflow. Make this style work by wearing lighter colors which make the whole outfit more appealing in the summer. Feeling inspired? Try these fabrics from moodfabrics.com:
    6.5oz Blue Textured Tencel Denim 6.5oz Blue Textured Tencel Denim
    Medium Blue Candy Striped Stretch Cotton Poplin Medium Blue Candy Striped Stretch Cotton Poplin
    Fungi Gray Mongolian Lamb Shearling Fungi Gray Mongolian Lamb Shearling
  • Perfect for spring

    With the season finally starting to change, I've been in search of more transitional fabric.  Fabric that's not too warm but still reminds me of spring.  Lucky for me I happened upon my new warmer weather favorite, this double face suiting that reminds me of a slightly heavier linen that moves beautifully.  It sews, cuts and irons with ease and it's like getting two fabrics in one with one side black/olive and the other side brown/olive.  My only regret is not getting more because it will make an amazing dress or pants. The top was made using my latest McCall 7580 pattern found here. The pants were made several months ago using this cotton woven and Burdastyle 6981 with alterations. Details found here.        
  • Mood Style: Vetements-Inspired, Eco-Friendly Sweatshirt

    I am loving the athleisure wear trend. We get to be super comfy, AND look incredibly chic? Why didn't we decide this was cool sooner?
    To bring some runway inspiration into this DIY project, I decided to take a look at some Vetements looks. Their oversized sleeves and cropped sweatshirts create some interesting silhouettes, and they manage to make a classic hoodie just a little more fashion-forward.
    Fabrics & materials used:
    The sweatshirt itself is fairly easy to put together. You can trace an old sweatshirt to make your pattern pieces. In this case, I actually traced a slightly oversized t-shirt, since I knew this was going to be a little more fitted than your typical pullover.
    The part I was a little worried about was the neckline, but it ended up being super simple.
    First, I measured around the unfinished neck of the sweatshirt and multiplied the number by .9.
    This would give me 90% of the original measurement, to account for ease. So while the neckline of my sweatshirt measured in at 23", I cut the trim to about 21" and sewed it to the wrong side of the collar. I then encased the raw edges in French seams.
    To make yours lie a little flatter, you could cut it shorter or add side seams instead of one seam in the center back.
    To go along with the deconstructed look that's been popular recently, I left the seams around the armholes exposed.
    This fabric was a joy to work with. It's face is incredibly smooth, and the fleece backing is beyond soft. I'm definitely going to be getting some of the other colors to make more of these in the future.
    What about you? Will you be trying a project like this?
  • Mood DIY: Free Overall Sewing Pattern

    The temperature has officially hit 70, which means the winter is behind us and I'm refusing to look back. Some high-waisted shorts seemed appropriate for today's DIY, but once I saw that the patchwork denim was so darn cute I knew I wanted to use more of it. Two hours later, I had a pair of overalls!


    Fabrics & materials used: Steps:
    1. Begin by sewing the front shorts panels to their respective side panels, and repeat for the back.
    2. Attach the two front halves of your shorts at the rise (the center seam that typically holds the zipper). Again, repeat for the back.
    3. To attach the front and back of your shorts, sew along the inseam, as well as about halfway up the sides. The remainder of the sides will be sewn when you insert the zipper.
    4. Here, you can decide the desired length of your shorts and add the cuffs along the bottom hem.
    5. I finished the bodice pieces and straps with simple rolled hems. Another option would be decorative binding, piping, or trim.
    6. Once the edges are finished, sew your bodice panels into the top of your front and back waistbands.
    7. Sew your waistband pieces over the top of your shorts.
    8. Insert a zipper on either size of your shorts, beginning at the waistband.
    9. Lastly, sew your straps onto the back of your overalls.For the front, it's best to use no-sew overall buckles. They don't take any extra tools, which is a plus. The backing pierces through the fabric and is covered by the button, which snaps into place. The hook part is attached to the strap by simply sliding it on if you'd like it to stay adjustable. You can also hand-stitch it into place if you'd prefer.
    What are your thoughts on the recent overall trend? Will you be making a pair of your own?
  • Perfect little stripes

    90% of the time Chandler's look is a result of leftover fabric from my look.  So I'm going to blame all this adorableness on these embroidered flowers that could find no other home than paired with this amazing Oscar de la Renta silk wool.  Unfortunately, the flowers are sold out but here are some beautiful alternatives.  Now let's just talk about the fabric.........This is one of those fabric choices that look pretty average online but absolutely stunning in person.  It's a medium weight beautifully made fabric with somewhat of a sheen.  Everything about it looks designer.  It sews beautifully, irons nicely and would look great as a top, dress or skirt. The pattern used for this dress was my bell sleeve pattern found here.    
  • Mood DIY: Free One-Piece Swimsuit Sewing Template

    With March finally behind us, I am officially thinking about nothing but the beach. I've always been a bit terrified to try my hand at swimwear, but I knew I'd have to make something with this amazing zebra tricot. A surprisingly easy-to-make body suit ensued!
    Fabrics & materials used:
    I began by draping the fabric right on the dress form. I love the more retro shape to the bottom and the deep V neckline. Two thick pleats at the shoulders also gave the suit faux lapels in lieu of bust darts. Since I don't typically work with swimwear, I can only include a template of the pattern I created. My model has a 28" waist, so it's roughly a US size 10. You can download a PDF below!


      I began by sewing the two front panels together, starting at the bottom and ending about halfway toward the top. Each shoulder was pleated before being attached to the back of the swimsuit. Once it was attached at the bottom as well, I had the outside of the suit mostly constructed, with the exception of the sides. Before closing the sides up, I needed to attach the lining. I began by sewing it to the arm and leg holes, like you can see below. Leaving the neckline still open, I sewed the lining into the sides of the suit by closing each side with French seams. Lastly, I slip-stitched around the entire neckline by hand to be sure the lining fit inside the zebra tricot perfectly. I love that bodysuits are so on trend right now. This can be worn at the beach or to a casual night out with some tights and denim shorts. It's giving off some serious 80's summer vibes!
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