All About Hand Sewing

Although a lot of sewing takes place on a machine, it’s important to have an arsenal of stitches that you can do by hand. Sometimes a stitch is too small for the machine to reach, and other times you need an invisible stitch that a machine couldn’t create. Here’s a list of common stitches and how to complete them.

First, let’s start with the most basic of all stitches; the running stitch.

Running Stitch:

The running stitch is similar to a basting stitch, but with smaller stitches, roughly 1/8”, and a locking stitch at the end. This is great for quickly mending a seam that’s come apart, or for small spaces that are hard to reach with a sewing machine.

Basting Stitch:

The basting stitch is used to hold pieces of fabric together that may shift as you use your sewing machine. It’s best to use a contrasting thread to make sure you remove the basting stitches.

1. Weave the needle in and out of the fabric creating the look of a dashed line
2. Use about ¼” – ½” stitches with equal length spaces between
3. Do not lock the stitch at the beginning or the end

Hemming Stitch

The hemming stitch is the most utilitarian of the hem stitches, as it is not meant to be invisible on the inside of the garment. But it can be done relatively quickly for a hand-sewn stitch, and sometimes that is exactly what you need.

1. Insert the needle just above the fold and catch a tiny section of the main fabric, creating a very tiny dot on the right side of the garment.
2. Pull the thread through the fabric, forming the dot that you started in step 1.
3. Insert the needle into the underside of the hem so that the dot made in step three is centered between the stitches on the fold.
4. Pull the thread through the fold, creating one full stitch.
5. Repeat the process by inserting the needle into the garment fabric just above the fold, creating a small tiny dot.

Catch Stitch

The catch stitch is a hem stitch that’s great for heavy or thick fabric, such as heavy wool, as the stitches help flatten the heaviness of the fibers. It also causes the threads to go over the hem on the front of the hem fold as opposed to just hidden on the inside of the fold, which makes it a stronger stitch for thicker fabrics.

1. Working from left to right, insert the needle into the fold of the hem
2. Pull the thread out of the hole so the knot is firmly placed on the inside of the hem and the thread is pulled taut
3. Insert the needle just above the fold of the hem to the right of the thread on the hem, moving from right to left; only catch little bit of the fabric so a very tiny dot of thread is left on the right side of the garment
4. Pull the needle through so the threads are going from the hem to the fabric at an angle to the right
5. Reinsert the needle into the hem, parallel to the first stitch on the hem, catching only the hem and not going through the garment fabric
6. Pull the needle and thread through the stitch from step 5 and pull firm; this is the first stitch as you can see the x shape just above the fold of the hem
7. Repeat by inserting the needle and thread to the right of the last stitch, on the garment fabric, forming a very small dot from right to left
8. Return to the right of the stitch and finish the stitch on the fold of the hem; repeat this until you have gone all the way around the hem

Slip Stitch

The slip stitch, also called a ladder stitch, creates an invisible seam between two folded edges. This is often used for bindings, to close a lining, final stitches on a pillow, or applying appliques invisibly.

1. Iron the folds flat
2. Slip your threaded needle inside the fold to hide its knot
3. Bring the needle out through the folded edge
4. Push the needle into the opposite fold directly across from the fold where it came out
5. Slide along this opposite fold about 1/8” – ¼”, then push the needle out
6. Bring the needle straight up from where it came out and insert into the opposite fold
7. Continue this back-and-forth-and slide pattern until you reach the end of your opening

Back Stitch

The back stitch is a very strong seam. It is typically used for heavy or dense fabric, or even to repair a seam. Start from right to left.

1. Bring your needle up through the fabric at 1
2. Insert your needle and go down through the fabric at 2
3. Bring the needle up through the fabric at 3
4. Insert your needle and go down through the fabric at 4
5. Repeat until you reach the end of your opening

Overcast Stitch:

An overcast stitch is used to applique one layer of fabric, generally the folded or selvage edge, to another. It’s an efficient stitch, as it is quick, strong, and flexible. The fell stitch creates a hinge, so that the piece that’s been sewn on can move. This makes it great for installing linings, but it’s also used to sew lace as appliques or applique seams.

1. Lay the folded edge of the top fabric onto the seam allowance of the fabric to be joined
2. Baste or pin in place
3. Working from right to left, secure thread in place at beginning of work and rake a small stitch directly across into adjoining fabric and take needle diagonally under the work and bring out again on the opposite side
4. Repeat and make another tiny stitch and again take the needle under diagonally

Invisible Stitch

An invisible stitch is meant to stitch two pieces of fabric together invisibly. It’s important pick up a small amount of the fabric with each stitch, which will minimize the visible part of the stitch.

1. Slip your threaded needle inside the fold to hide its knot
2. Bring the needle out through the folded edge of the hem
3. Using the point of your needle, pick up just a few threads from the flat fabric against which the hem is sitting (this is the tiny stitch that will be seen on the right side of your project)
4. Push the needle back into the folded edge of the hem
5. Repeat for the length of the hem

Would you include any other stitches? Let me know in the comments!