Surprise linings are one of my favorite ways to add detail to a garment. I love the flash of color that gets shown as a jacket comes off or when it moves while the wearer walks. For this coat, I wanted a full, high-low skirt to utilize the full-scale print on one of Mood’s new silks, and the asymmetrical silhouette allows the pale pinks to peak out along the hem when it moves. The front is double-breasted and is secured by 8 buttons, as well as an optional waist belt. The pattern also comes with two different sleeve belts for you to choose from!
Fabrics & materials used:
- 3 yards Charcoal Twill Wool Suiting
- 3 yards Black and Beige Large-Scale Floral Printed Silk Charmeuse
- 1-4 yards Helmut Lang Charcoal Cotton Fusible
- 1 yard Helmut Lang Sunstone Cotton and Flax Twill
- 2″ Old Brass Metal Buckle
- 14 Italian Antique Gold Metal 4-Hole Buttons – 44L/27mm
- Dritz Grommet Pliers (Optional)
- Antique Brass Grommets
- MDF003 – The Achillea Coat Sewing Pattern (Free download below!)
Pattern includes a 1/2″ seam allowance unless otherwise stated.
First step, choose your materials! I started this project back before winter decided to blow into NY full force, so I went with a wool suiting to keep the garment more lightweight, rather than a coating. The next time I try this pattern, I definitely want to give some coatings a shot.
Since I went with the suiting, I decided to stabilize it with a fusible cotton. If you decide against this step though, you’ll only need a yard of the fusible for the belt, wrist belts, and collar.
I began by assembling the bodice of the jacket: back sides to the back, like you see above, and side fronts to the two front panels. Then attach the fronts to the back at the shoulders and sides. The collar can also be faced and added at the neckline. The seam will be hidden inside the lining when it gets added.
Easy so far, I hope! For a tailored garment like this, I strongly recommend pressing your seams apart to reduce bulk.
Your sleeve is made up of a few parts, the upper and lower sleeves as well as the optional wrist belts. If adding the belts, be sure to sew and press each of them first, and line them up with the darts on the inner sleeve seam before sewing it closed. Turn the sleeves right side out and attach to each respective armhole of your jacket bodice. Note, the longer seam should be on the outer part of your sleeve.
The skirt of the coat consists of one large piece cut on the fold and two front panels that overlap when the coat is closed. Each of the panels features a welt pocket which can be added before or after the panels are added to the rest of the skirt depending on your preference.
To sew the pockets, layer the skirt panel between the pocket lining (represented by the red dotted line) and the pocket welt, like you see above. The wrong sides of the skirt panel and pocket lining should be touching, along with the right sides of the welt piece and skirt panel.
Sew a rectangle through all three layers like the dashed rectangle in the above photo. Cut along the dotted lines and fold the welt panel inward, folding the longer portion in half to create the welt. If you’ve never sewn welt pockets before, there’s a handy tutorial here!
I placed some decorative buttons at the end of each welt as a way to add some detail and also reinforce the corners, but this is purely optional.
As you attach the skirt to the bodice of the coat, this is where you can add some belt loops if you choose. Sew the top of the loop onto the bodice first, and then fold it down toward the waist so they’ll be sewn into the seam allowance.
Next we have the lining, which goes together much like the outside of the coat. Both front panels should be cut again from your outer fabric, and the remainder cut from the lining. Be sure to follow the lines for the lining on your sleeve panels; they’ll be just slightly shorter than the ones you cut for the self layer.
Sew your bodice and skirt lining separately; and then attach them at the waist, leaving about 4″ open at the center back. Place the right sides of the jacket and your lining together, tucking the collar inward, and sew around the entirety of the coat (the neckline, lapels, center fronts, and hem).
The right sides of the jacket should be encased inside; turn the garment right-side out through the 4″ opening at the waistline of the lining. Try the jacket on, pin your sleeves to the desired length and either slip-stitch the lining into place or pull the sleeves through the opening and machine sew the sleeve hem. Lastly, slip-stitch the lining closed.
I’m curious which fabrics you’ll be using to try this pattern. Be sure to check out Mood’s wool coatings for the outer layer, and I strongly recommend one of these new silk prints for the lining. They’re so incredibly smooth. Let me know what you choose in the comments!