Just in time for warm weather, cotton gauze is one of Mood’s most popular fabrics! However, this fabric is often a mystery to most because it’s not as widely known as other fabrics like cotton poplin or denim. I’m here to answer common questions about the summer staple fabric that is double cotton gauze. It is a lightweight fabric made from two layers of open-weave cotton gauze, tacked together with a naturally wrinkled texture. It is soft and comfortable to wear, and a great option for spring and summertime garments.
Which projects are best?
As a soft cotton fabric that is light and breathable, double cotton gauze is particularly good for summer styles with relaxed fits like babydoll dresses, bottoms, and loungewear. Keepsake blankets and quilts are also common uses for double cotton gauze.
How do you work with it?
It’s best to pre-wash double cotton gauze, allowing any shrinkage to occur before cutting and sewing. Wash it in cold water and lay it flat to dry. It will wrinkle and shrink, but any undesired wrinkles can be pressed out using lots of steam before beginning your project.
After washing and selecting the desired pattern, it’s time to cut. A rotary cutter and pattern weights are best for precise, smooth cuts. However, fraying will still occur, so it’s best to be aware of that beforehand by cutting an adequate amount of seam allowance to accommodate the fraying.
Prep for Sewing
Use a basting stitch or tailor’s chalk to mark cotton gauze. It can be quite delicate, so stay within the seam allowance when pinning to avoid snagging the fabric or leaving holes behind. Use a walking foot to prevent rippled seams caused by fabric layers being fed unevenly through the machine.
Sewing Machine Settings
Adjusting the stitch length to a longer length and decreasing the presser foot pressure slightly will also help create sturdy seams. When sewing, keep a good distance from the raw edge to prevent weak seams.
Use a serger for best results, or if you’re working with a home sewing machine, use a 3-step zig-zag, flat fell, or French seams to prevent fraying.
Which thread and needles are best?
A sharp or new universal needle size 70/10 or 80/12 works with double cotton gauze, and the best thread to work with the fabric is an all-purpose thread.
Is reinforcement necessary for double cotton gauze?
If the pattern has any curved or bias cut seams, bias tape or staystitching can prevent pattern pieces from stretching or shifting. If bias tape is needed for your project, choose a bias tape that is the same weight as your fabric.
Lining or no lining?
For lighter colors, a lining is suggested, but if the color is deeper, or the fabric is printed, a lining isn’t necessary and will provide more opacity (or the illusion of it).
Sewing with double cotton gauze is a delight to wear, and its crinkled texture makes it unique visually, so give it a shot. It’s a perfect choice when you want to sew, but want to keep the project simple. With double cotton gauze, the more relaxed and simple the pattern, the better. Now that the mystery has been uncovered regarding double cotton gauze, you can easily identify and even sew with it.
For more double cotton gauze tips, check out the Sewing with Double Cotton Gauze post.
Before you go—What kind of garment do you find yourself reaching for during the warmer weather days? Leave a comment below!
What do you use as a lining for cotton gauze, especially for tops? I feel like I’m ruining the breeziness of lightweight natural fabrics if I add a synthetic fabric under them.
Hi, Lucy! I usually go with a lightweight cotton shirting or voile. 🙂