Basic tailoring will take a garment from good to great in an instant. To find out what tailoring is and how to master the basics, keep reading.
How to Make a Tailored Garment:
A truly tailored garment typically has interfacing, which is usually the middle layer found between an outer shell and a lining. A tailored garment can be hand sewn or machine sewn. It’s easier to perfect the form when hand sewing is involved. But before you get to sewing: Prep work is very important when tailoring. Once items are in place, there isn’t a lot of room for changes. Much of the work happens before sewing.
- Use a small thread amount no longer than the arm to avoid knots when hand sewing.
- Make test garments to determine what you want your final garment to look like. The best fabric for test garments is a fabric that mimics the final fabric
- Pinch and pin often on each test garment, making any adjustments as you see fit.
- Use fusible or non-fusible (woven) interfacing. The fusible needs to be perfectly selected before cutting the garment because there is no room for changes. Non-fusible interfacing allows room for building and changing things around, and adjustments can be made to get the perfect shape.
Skills and Tools:
- Exquisite attention to detail and willingness to practice is a must. Hand-eye coordination is important for consistency and accuracy.
- Tailor’s chalk: is flat and used for straight lines.
- Hand Sewing Needles: select small needles that can easily weave in and out of the fabric
- Thread: Guterman silk or polyester thread is optimal for tailoring. Avoid cotton thread because it breaks easily and isn’t going to be as long-lasting.
- Beeswax: keeping the thread smooth during hand sewing negates not and allows the thread to slide through the fabric and needle more easily.
Here are a few easy adjustments to make alterations to a garment to improve fit, which is also commonly referred to as tailoring:
- Taking in the side seams of the garment will make the fit more body-skimming and often more flattering
- Shortening the sleeves or legs or making them a different cut will give a more clean-cut look or a more suitable piece for the desired occasion
- Adding darts where needed will give a more flattering fit without making adjustments to an entire side or area
Whether tailoring a garment with interfacing or making adjustments to an already existing piece these helpful tips are sure to create a great form and fit. Have you worked with interfacing before? If so, leave your tips for working with it below.