Statement pieces should have a spot in every person’s wardrobe. The chic and simple lines of this jacket paired with its bold sleeves leave the final statement of the piece open to interpretation. It can be minimalist and modern with this black on black brocade; or it can be more fearless with its style in one of Mood’s multicolored faux furs. You could even add it to your summer wardrobe as an unlined, sheer beach cover up! Personally, my favorite part is the wide, cropped sleeves, which leaves space to show off some bracelets, or a surprise lining.
Fabrics & materials used:
- 2 yards Metallic Black Floral Brocade
- 2 yards Sycamore Green Twill Viscose Lining
- MDF004 – The Begonia Jacket Sewing Pattern (Free download below!)
Pattern includes a 1/2″ seam allowance unless otherwise stated.
This jacket features a swan neck collar, so that’s where we’ll be starting as far as sewing.
Take your two front panels, place them with their right sides together, and sew them together at the collar as you see below. For this pattern. I recommend pressing all of your seams after sewing them and again before attaching your lining.
Next, cut a tiny notch where the collar meets each of the shoulders of your front panels. This will allow you to more easily pin the shoulders and collar to the back panel of your jacket without the fabric pulling or bunching.
When you pin it, the fabric will gather a bit at the notch. Be sure to sew slowly and carefully, pivoting your needle at the notch so you don’t catch any of the excess into your seam allowance. Sew, notch, and press your seams before adding your sleeves at the shoulders.
Next, I need a patch with ‘Every garment needs pockets.’ embroidered on it. Because every garment needs pockets.
You should have four pocket panels cut out. Pin each to its respective jacket panel, lining it up with the notches on the pattern. They should be placed like you see below, with the right side of your lining against the right side of your main fabric.
Once each of the pocket panels are sewn into place, you should be able to align your front and back panels at the sides of your jacket. Place them right sides together, and pull your pockets out to line them up as well.
Sew down the sides of your sleeves and jacket, making sure to go around your pocket like the pins in the photo above. For some extra security, you can back-stitch at the bottom of the pocket, like you see below.
These are hidden pockets, so they fade away into the seam while the garment is being worn.
The lining goes together essentially the same way, with the exception of the front panel being made up of two parts instead of one. The front facing will be seen along the collar, so it’s recommended that it be cut from your main fabric. Simply sew the front facing to the side front lining and then everything else goes together similarly (sans the pockets).
To attach the lining to the self layer, place them right sides together, lining up the collar seams and notches. Sew along the collar, center front, and bottom of your jacket, leaving about 4″ open at the center back.
Before sewing up the last 4″, you’ll want to pull your sleeves through the opening and pin the self to the lining with right sides together. This can be tricky, and you don’t want to twist your sleeves at all, so sometimes this is easier done by hand than with your machine.
Once they’re sewn together around the hem, they can be pulled right-side-out and ironed. I also recommend ironing around the collar and hem of your jacket before slip-stitching the final 4″ of your jacket lining closed.
So tell me in the comments: what are you going to be saying with your jacket? I’d love to hear which fabrics you’d love to make this project with.
30 comments
I really love this. You explain instructions so well. Looks good too.
Thanks so much! 🙂
That is gorgeous! If we want to add some kind of closure, what do you recommend? Is there enough overlap on the front to add some buttons?
I agree with Karen! Some frog closures or a front clasp could look really nice, or some invisible hook & eyes inside the jacket. I recommend making a muslin of the pattern in your size to see if there’s enough overlap to do some buttons. If there’s not, you could try adding an inch at each side of your front panels.
Doris, I agree with the idea of creating a means of closing, without losing the line of the jacket. The first thing that popped into my mind were frogs or mandarin style loops. I would want something unique or nearly invisible, as the jacket’s lines are so elegant.
Gorgeous pattern! I am totally impressed with your work. I just finish making this by following your steps and it was so fun for me. Thanks and keep sharing.
That is awesome to hear – so glad you enjoyed it!!
Love the fabric choices!
I am in love with this coat and am getting everything together to make it from a Mood Faux Fur. My question is about the amount of fabric you used. Only 2 yards for the actual coat? I see you are a small size, but 2 yards does not seem enough. I am going to print the pattern, put it together and lay it out to check my size and get more of a handle on yardage needed. Great coat!
I was wondering the same! How did this turn out for you?
Can’t wait to make this. Thank you Mood Sewciety.
Waow, exactly what I was looking for ! My favorite collar…
Wonderful choice of fabric ♥
Thanks so much
The neckline is very flattering and the fabric is rich, classic and unexpected. I am planing to make this into a light weight cover for a plain cotton sleeveless summer dress, more to add some color and style and lift my mood.
Good work.
Beautiful jacket! Do you think this pattern will work for silk velvet?
Hi, Nicole – that could be gorgeous! You just may want to interface the velvet for a bit more stability. 🙂
Hi, Courtney!
Thanks for sharing this gorgeous pattern. I love your choice of materials. My question is about the sleeves. In the drawings they seem to be on (shoulder) point and sort of straight , yet in your pictures they looks off the shoulder and wider than in the drawings. Which one is it?
Thank-you very much for your respsonse!
Hi, Cecilia! The sleeves are just slightly dropped from the shoulder and widen toward the wrist. 🙂
Thank you Very Much!
Can’t wait to make this. Thank you Mood Sewciety.
hi there!
I absolutely love this pattern, there was a question about the amount of fabric that was needed. 2 yards seems like it may not be enough for a smaller size, how much fabric would you suggest for a size 16-18, and would you suggest sizing up for maximum comfort? Thanks so much!
Hi, Luna! I made a 16/18 here and used four yards. It’s already kind of an oversized jacket, so I wouldn’t size up. 🙂
omg i made it today and im so happy with the results!! thank you so much, the instructions were really good!! love your work
Would this pattern work in a tweed or wool material?
Yes, that would look gorgeous!
I’ve only just found you but I am blown away by your ability, generosity & your website. Thank you so much for the patterns, I’m feeling a little greedy as I downloaded a few of them but I absolutely fell in love with the Begonia jacket, Lantana jacket, a skirt & blouse. Plenty to keep me busy for some time. Thanks again!
I did it with my friend and it looked amazing
thank you so much
love from Libya <3
I’m trying to make sense of these instructions, but I’m just not getting there. Too vague, and not enough pictures of the process. Kinda disappointed in this one.
Hi there
Im trying to sew this for my mother
She is over weght so the measurments dont match like for the bust and the waist there is a 10 sizes diffrence what can i do to make it pretty for her ?
Should i just go with bigger size or what
Hi Paris, we suggest blending between the sizes. So cut out her largest size, and mark the points on the pattern where the sizes differ. Blend the pattern lines. Sew a muslin first though!