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DIY

  • Mood DIY: Easy Home Decor Designs

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    It can be a challenge finding ways to switch up your interior and home decor designs. Sometimes, thinking is the key to create something bigger. There are plenty of subtle alterations you can do or add around your home to help turn its entire look around, and they don't have to take much time or effort to make them. Here are some easy and practical home décor DIYs you can make in minutes that will help give your home an entirely new perspective!  

    No-Sew Knot Pillow

    Decorative pillows can be very expensive to buy or have them custom made, but you can spin a fresh look for your pillows on your own, and it only takes minutes! Here's a sewing-free method to upgrade your old decorative pillows and home décor!

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    Materials List

    1 1/3 YDs of Silver/Black Stripes Woven 1 QTY 16" x 16" Mountain Mist Pillow Form 8" Fiskars All-Purpose Scissors Size 3-2" Dritz Safety Pins  

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    Lay your fabric out and place your pillow form right in the center of it. Take one side and fold it over so it reaches the opposite side of the pillow form. Safety-pin the fabric down in the center and near each corner of the same side.

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    For the other side, you need to fold the raw edge of the fabric in.

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    Fold the fabric wrong sides together about halfway towards the pillow form, and then bring the folded edge to the center of the pillow to wrap around it. Safety-pin the fabric so the pin is right in the center of the pillow, and then safety-pin the fabric along the fold towards the edges of the pillow like so:

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    From here, you need to gather your fabric edges on either side and tie them together once.

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    Take one tail end and wrap it OVER the knot in the middle, tucking it snug underneath the main raise of the knot.

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    Then tuck the other free tail underneath where it will sit nicely like so:

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    If it's giving you trouble with staying put, fasten a couple of safety pins in hidden spots to help secure the tails.

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    And then you're all done!

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    Fabric Coaster

    Want a little hand-crafted touch to spiff up your home décor? Make some hand-made coasters! Adding a new set of coasters to a room is a small and subtle way to incorporate your design features and colors into social gatherings. They can be used to expand your design past the visual field and into a tangible one. Your guests will be able to use a part of the interior design! Or you could just make a cute set for yourself!

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    Materials List

    ¼ YDs of Citra Green/Victorian Gold/Cream Floral Shantung /Dupioni ¼ YDs of Heathered Dark Earth Brown Felted Wool Blend 8" Fiskars All-Purpose Scissors Dritz Size 3/9 Sharp Needles Dritz 250 Long White Ball Pins Dritz Tailor's Chalk (Optional--for tracing your circles to cut out)

    You'll need to cut out your two circles of felt as well as your one circle of fabric. The two felt pieces should be the size your want the final product to be, and your fabric piece needs to have an extra 1.5" in. in diameter than your felt pieces. The fabric pieces needs enough extra length to wrap underneath one of the felt pieces.

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    Once you have your three circles, take one felt circle and put it together with your fabric circle. The right side of your fabric should face out. Tuck the edges of your fabric under and around the felt piece and pin it into place.

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    After this, take your other fabric circle and put it together on the underside of the first piece so that the raw edges of the fabric you tucked underneath before are hidden. Pin the felt pieces together. Using your sewing machine, sew a 5/8" in. seam allowance around the edge. This should sew in the raw fabric edges if you cut your fabric piece out big enough.

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    Double-check to make sure your stitches are secure and neat, trim any loose threads, and then you're done!

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    Fabric Frame

    Need a DIY to do with those old picture frames you have or looking to make a gift for a loved one that's both thoughtful and practical? Make a decorative accessory hanger!

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    Materials List

    1/2—1/3 YDs of Off-White/Lime Floral Canvas 2/3 YDs of Gray Solid Grosgrain Ribbon 8" Fiskars All-Purpose Scissors Clover Wonder Clips Aleene's Fast Grab Tacky Glue 1 QTY 8”x10” inch Frame Dritz Tailor's Chalk (Optional) You may need more or less fabric depending on if you're using one that has a larger pattern, so please keep this in mind when deciding on your design!

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    First, lay your fabric out and determine what part of it you want to be framed. Take the backing of your frame out and lay it on the wrong side of the fabric and mark where you need to cut, leaving about an inch and a half broder all around. Use tailor's chalk if you'd like to help draw a guide for yourself to cut along.

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    Cut along your marks or lines so you have a nice rectangular cut.

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    Once you have your fabric cut, take your tacky glue and dab each corner of the frame's backing on the back of it (so the side where the stand is attached).

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    Fold the corner of the fabric here over the glue and clip it down with a Wonder Clip. Do this for all four corners.

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    After your corners are glued and secured, move on to the sides. Working on side at a time, dab your tacky glue along the edge of the frame backing (dots or one straight line of glue both work!), and then fold the fabric once onto itself and then another time over the edge of the backing onto the glue. This will help keep the raw edges of your fabric tucked away.

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    After gluing them down, clip them in place with more Wonder Clips.

    For best results, you should leave your glue to set and dry fully for about an hour. After the hour has passed, take off your clips and check for stability of the glue. If you need to glue more, go ahead and do so.

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    Next is to add your ribbon! Cut the piece completely in half and line up on the front of the fabric where you'd like the ribbon to lay on your frame. We put our about 2.5 in. from both the top and bottom of the frame. Lay the two pieces where you want them and hold them in place with Wonder Clips. Turn the frame backing over to the stand side and get your tacky glue. You need to dab glue underneath the folded fabric edge where the ribbon will be tucked and glue into place.

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    You can life just a little bit, tuck the ribbon under so the edge is concealed, and glue it down. After you've glued it down, hold the ribbon in place again with the Wonder Clips and let the glue set for at least another hour.

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    Do this with the other three points for your ribbon edges.

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    When you come back, check your ribbons for stability. After this, you should be able to snap your backing back into your frame (without the glass cover!) and be done!

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    Go ahead and hang your favorite accessories on them for a stylish and framed organizer!

    This is what we have to share for now, but we have more coming! Are you looking to try any of these designs out? Can you think of any designs for them that might look good for the upcoming holidays? Share your thoughts with us and let us know!

  • Mood DIY: How to Sew Men's Jogger Pants

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    Jogger pants have been an activewear favorite for a while now, but recently they've been showing up more and more on high fashion runways. They've moved on from their initial, comfy knit vibe to become a staple of casual chic, appearing as every fabric type imaginable - from suiting to canvas to sateen.
    OAMC | Fall 2016 Menswear OAMC | Fall 2016 Menswear
    Hogan | Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear Hogan | Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear
    Alexander Wang | Fall 2016 Menswear Alexander Wang | Fall 2016 Menswear
    With Mood's digital camo going on sale this weekend, I decided to hop on this trend with a pair of cotton ripstop joggers. The fabric was a little structured, but ended up sewing and pressing wonderfully, which made the final product look fantastic. Fabrics and materials used: Rather than reinvent the wheel, I chose to alter a pre-made pattern, specifically Burda's men's trousers. The pattern was easily to follow, and looked fairly tailored so the style was nearly perfect. The first alteration was the sizing. Since joggers tend to be a little more relaxed, I cut most of my pattern pieces 2 sizes larger than what I would cut for regular, fitted pants. The only thing I kept the correct size was the waistband.

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    Another thing to note about altering this pattern is the length. Joggers bunch up a little bit at the ankle or calf, but it's still very likely that you'll need to shorten the legs of this pant if you're looking to make your own. However, while most patterns have a lengthen/shorten line like the one you see above, this is not one of the times you'll be using it.

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    For most length alterations, you want to do it in the middle of the panel and grade it accordingly, rather than simply chopping the bottom section off. Doing so might mess up the tapering of the leg. In this case though, you actually want to cut your panel at a wider section so there's a little more to gather into the rib knit trim later on. If you're unsure of how much to cut off the bottom, you can always make the full pants and decide the length after a fitting.

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    Other than the sizing and length, I followed the rest of the pattern to a T. Since the waistband was slightly smaller than the rest of the pattern, I added to the darts on the back; and of course, in lieu of a typical pant hem, I added some rib knit trim.

    men's camo jogger pants

    men's camo jogger pants

    Overall, they're casual, chic, and versatile! Wear them down to the ankle year-round, or push them up to the calf for those warmer afternoons.

    men's camo jogger pants

    men's camo jogger pants

    So tell me below, what style joggers would you make? I'd love to hear what type of fabrics you'd use!

  • Mood DIY: Double-breasted Pea Coat

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    Autumn is here, and that means it's time to break out the pea coats! Known for their sturdy outside and a silky satin inside, the ever-trendy double-breasted pea coat is a beloved staple of the fashion world. The look is usually topped off with a set of buttons, and they give off  a mature yet fierce look for all who wear them. Muted colors go great with this style, and you can decorate them with embellished buttons or more reserved ones--both look will look fantastic! This particular pea coat was made using a pattern from Butterick, Pattern #B5685. Its design sports a high waist, an over-sized collar, 3 different lengths to work with, pockets, and a 4-button closure. It's best made with fabrics like lightweight woolens, lightweight tweeds, and poplins. We made ours with wool coating! Here's a full list of the materials used to make this jacket:

    Materials List

    Mood Brand Lia Sewing Machine 2 3/4 YDs of Marc Jacobs Double Cloth Black Wool Coating 2 YDs of Ivory Stretch Polyester Satin Dritz 250 Long White Ball Pins 10 Black 250m Gutermann Sew All Thread (for sewing and top-stitching the coating) 20 White 500m Gutermann Sew All Thread (for sewing lining) White/Black Plastic Button - 40L/25mm Butterick Pattern #B5685: Misses' Double-Breasted Jacket and Coat Dritz Tailor's Chalk   The fabrics used to make this coat include a double cloth black wool coating by March Jacobs for the main fabric and an ivory stretch poly-satin for the lining. We chose this wool coating because pea coats tend to be made with a nice, thick fabric, and we wanted to replicate that. A thicker fabric is the sensible route for coats like this, and it's so worth it when the garment is completed; the quality really shows, both in construction and style! Pea coats are also winter garment and should be constructed as such if you intend to wear it for the colder seasons (though there's no harm in going with a lighter fabric when it's warmer!). This wool coating has a soft exterior, a tough, tight weave, and a slight one-way stretch. The subtle diagonal is very easy on the eyes, too. The poly-satin lining has a gorgeous sheen, and it's so soft to the touch. The coat fits nice and loose without being over-sized (save for that collar!) and it's incredibly comfortable to wear. The extra room provided by the pattern allows for easy layering for completing an entire ensemble, and perhaps the best part is the stretch of the lining—it doesn’t feel constricting when you wear it!

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    This wool coating turned out great for this jacket! The contrast between the coating and the satin lining looks astonishing.

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    The sharp angle of the collar is striking as well, and it will give a nice squared shape to your top silhouette. The buttons work together with the collar's design to pull this off.

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    You can flip the collar up while still maintaining its shape, too!

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    And the princess cut of the bodice frames nicely. With the addition of the longer sleeves, this coat is pretty irresistible!

     If you're looking to add a little something to your design of this jacket, considering using faux fur trim around the sleeve cuffs or the wide collar! You could use any kind of large buttons on the front too, or maybe even add a hood! There are plenty of ways to spice this look up!   There are a few things to keep in mind when constructing a coat or garment with thicker fabrics and lots of layers like this one: One is to invest in denim sewing machine needles. Thicker fabric is more work for your sewing machine, and when you have to work with as many layers as a pattern like this calls for, it can be very easy to break a needle if it's not well-suited for thicker fabrics (regular universal needles have  a higher chance of snapping!) We recommend these: Style 2026 100/16 Singer Pins & Needles Another tip is to definitely make use of your tailor's chalk. If you're working with any lighter-colored fabrics, go with the blue chalk, and make the time to mark all of the spots the pattern tells you to. The pattern can be overwhelming if you're below mid-level sewing skills, but having the markings make the pattern much clearer and the garment puts together fairly easily because of them! A word of caution for the poly-satin: this may be obvious, but the satin is pretty slippery. It will slide around under your presser foot, so go the extra mile and pin a little more. Keep that satin from sliding around! Especially with the pockets and the sleeve linings, add a few more pins to help keep the pattern pieces stable as you sew. You'll thank yourself later! Lastly, when you're sewing a lot of layers together (like when attaching the collar to the bodice or the bodice to the lower half of the jacket), DON'T RUSH; SEW SLOWLY. Use the sewing machine wheel manually to go over areas that are piled high with layers or bumps, too! This can save you from breaking a needle! Take your time and work carefully. This goes for any level seamstress. And there you have it! We look forward to seeing your versions of this design and comments about how it went! Let us know: Have you made a pea coat before? Do you have any extra tips to share for making them?
  • Mood Style: Sewing an Outerwear Cape

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    Capes, capelets, and mantels; all three were seen on the Fall 2016 runways, and in no shortage of different styles! We saw short and simple silhouettes with fur details, lovely wrap coats with attached capelet overlays, and even long garments ready for the red carpet.
    Libertine Fall 2016 Read-to-Wear Libertine Fall 2016 Read-to-Wear
    Prada | Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear Prada | Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear
    Marc Jacobs | Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear Marc Jacobs | Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear
    For today's sewing project, I decided to pull some inspiration from this trend. Rather than a basic cape, I decided to make a sort of mix between the Libertine and Prada capes above, while pulling the rich colors from Marc Jacobs' runway.

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    Luckily, I found the perfect belted cape pattern from Burda's Rock Island collection. I used the following fabrics and materials with just a few alterations:

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    I made the belt about 1.5x the pattern's recommended length in order to give it a nice bow in the front. In addition. I also got rid of the front belt loops, moving them to the side instead. This showed off the beautiful herringbone fabric a little more, which I absolutely love!

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    The pockets were also scrapped so the print wouldn't be too overpowering. And instead of a fabric tab closer at the collar, I used one of Mood's fantastic over-sized safety pins.

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    Overall, it's a lovely piece of outerwear for Fall! Are you going to be making your own? I'd love to know what fabrics and colors you'll be using!

  • Mood DIY: Neoprene Beanie with Rib Knit Trim (and Gloves!)

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    Beanies are a popular hat to wear when the wear starts turning chilly. They fit snug, keep the wind out, and can still help make a fantastic ensemble. They look good in almost any color, and so long as the fabric is warm and has stretch, it usually fits pretty well in a beanie style!

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    That's why we decided to try making a beanie with neoprene fabric. If you didn't know, neoprenes are thick, comfy woven fabrics that come in a variety of bright colors and prints, and they're designed with athletics in mind. Making a beanie for your morning run through the brisk air or to wear and keep warm with at a game are perfect reasons to make one for yourself, and with so many colors available, you’ll have no problem making your own collection! And to top off this design, a border of rib knit trim! Rib knit trims are wide and usually used for sleeve cuffs, but they can also be used for hats. We offer a whole bunch of colors for rib knit trim, too, so the possibilities are nearly endless. Take a look below to see how easy this design is and get inspired to your own neoprene beanie!  

    Materials List

    Mood Brand Lia Sewing Machine ½- YD of Black/Gray Jersey Backed Neoprene/Scuba Knit 1 QTY of Black Striped Acrylic 6.5" x 64" Rib Knit Trim Dritz 250 Long White Ball Pins 10 Black 250m Gutermann Sew All Thread (for sewing and top-stitching the fabric)  

    Drawing the Pattern

    You’ll need a couple of measurements.
    1. Head Circumference—measure around the head your making the hat for over the forehead and underneath the head, basically along the hair line. Generally, head circumferences are 13” for newborn infants, 14” for babies, 16”-18” for children, and 20”-23” for young teens to adults. If you reach a ½” measurement, round up to the closest inch.
    2. The length of the actual hat correlates with the wearer as well: you can go with 8” for newborns, 9”-10” for children, and 11”-12” for young teens to adults.
    3. Follow this pattern diagram to get your pattern piece. Seam allowance is already included when you go by these measurements; neoprenes and knits stretch, so you won’t have to worry about it being too tight in the final product!

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    Fold your fabric with the selvages together, and lay your pattern piece going with the grain like so:

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    Pin your pattern into place and cut the fabric. Since you’re cutting two pieces at once, you only have to cut once total! You can make two hats with ½ a yard of fabric.  

    Putting the Beanie Together

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    DSC_0305 After you’ve cut the fabric, go ahead and fold each piece in half, right sides together (in this case, we went with the grey side since that’s the side we wanted to show) and pin along where your dart will go. Sew these darts in place using a plain, straight stitch. You do not need a zigzag stitch for these darts. Next, pin your two whole pieces with the right sides together like this. Sew along the pinned edges. Do NOT sew along the flat bottom—that’s where your head goes!

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    Turn it right side out and check the shape. If it’s not round enough for you, use some tailors chalk to sketch out the shape you want on the WRONG side of the fabric and sew down. Check until you’re happy with the result.

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    Put your hat to the side and grab your rib knit trim. This trim has a lot of stretch, so we need to cut a few inches off from our head circumference measurement. With our beanie, we were working with a 24” (rounded up from 23.5”) circumference, so we cut out rib knit trim measurement to 22”. You want the trim to be a little tighter so that it stays on your head! After you’ve cut it to the needed length, fold your trim in half right sides together and pin the edges. If you’re using the striped trim like we did, make sure to guide up your lines! It’ll look messy even if it’s just a bit off. Start pinning at the white lines first and work your way out. Repeat this method when you sew this part together. Double-check for quality after you sew it together before moving on. DSC_0318 Next, fold your rib knit in half, starting at the seam you just made (make sure to line this up neatly, too!) so that the lined side of the trim is facing INSIDE. If you’re using a rib knit trim that has no design, you only have to fold the trim with the wrong sides together. Grab your hat from before, slip it into your ring of trim, and pin your trim around the OUTSIDE of the hat. Check that the hat’s trim is distributed evenly as you pin it. Once you’ve pinned it all, sew it down using a plain, straight stitch while pulling the fabric slightly and giving a 5/8” seam allowance. We set our stitch a little wider, too, but this isn’t always necessary. Be sure to pull it gently, too.

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    That’s all there is to it! We love this beanie design and though it’d be great to try with all our different rib knit trims and neoprenes. This type of hat would look great with both solid and patterned neoprenes, and with so many color options, there are a bunch of ways to make and design it!

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    You can also make a matching pair of gloves with the leftover trim and fabric! you can make cuffed gloves with the rib knit trim, or throw together a pair of fingerless gloves like these quick! Just fold your rib knit over once, trace your hand, cut out four pieces total, sew them together (remembering to line up the rib knit's design if need be!), and you're good to take on the chilly autumn weather! What other accessories could you add to one of these beanies? Maybe some buttons? Or an extra trim? Share your ideas with us, we'd love to hear them! Other Neoprenes to try! Other Rib Knit trims to try!
  • Mood DIY: Boxer Shorts

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      Winter is a great time for stocking up on comfortable clothes like pajamas and sleepwear, and what better way to add to your wardrobe than making a pair of Darcy boxer shorts for yourself? Boxer shorts are great for their loose fit, and the light fabrics they're usually made with are breathable and, occasionally, festive! Just the right thing to buckle down under a warm blanket with. We found this fantastic Darcy Boxer Shorts pattern over at Measure Twice Cut Once, and we wanted to give it a try! Since the pattern provides all the necessary details for how to construct the garment, we'll focus more on the pattern itself and how well our fabrics translated to the design.

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      Here is the list of materials we used to get the above look:

    Materials List

    Mood Brand Lia Sewing Machine 1 Yard of Liberty of London Rhian Green/Gray Cotton Poplin 1.25 Yards of 1" Black Elastic 3 Small Matching Buttons Hand Sewing Needle Dritz 250 Long White Ball Pins 10 Black 250m Gutermann Sew All Thread (for sewing and top-stitching the fabric) 115 Rail Grey 100m Gutermann Sew All Thread (when sewing the waistband)   This pattern provides four main designs to choose from, which can be easily mixed and match for a extra number of designs, as well as alterations that cover both men's and women's cuts. The garment featured in this article is the first design provided in the pattern; a men's cut that sports a buttoned fly and low, exposed elastic waistband. This style is a classic-type of look that provides full coverage for extra comfort! We made our garment with a poplin fabric, but you could also go with any of our woven fabrics like voile, silks and satins, or quilting cottons. It's advised against making these with any sort of stiff fabric like a denim or a a fabric that has too much stretch like a jersey. If you make it with something too stiff, it won't be comfortable, but if you make it with something too loose, it won't hold it's classic shape that it's known for. Keep this in mind when deciding what fabric you'd like to go with! If you'd like a few suggestions for types of fabrics to use, check some of these: Poplins Silks Voile  
    Sew-in Buttons and exposed waistband. Sew-in Buttons and exposed waistband.
    This pattern is fairly simply, which is great for beginners. It was quick to put together, too.
    Double-stitched and pressed seams. Double-stitched and pressed seams.
    Double stitching provided extra secure seams, and a great top-stitch adds so subtle flare to the design. You can use a double-needle attachment or just sew twice. Extra points for neatness counts!
    Rolled hem seam. Rolled hem seam.
    Roll the hems to keep your fabric tight and locked in, and you're good to go!
    Try pairing with a Mood t-shirt! Try pairing with a Mood t-shirt!
    Can't you see yourself wearing a nice comfy pair to lounge around in on the weekends? Sleeping in a pair of these will feel like paradise, and you'll be able to boast that you made them yourself! What types of fabrics do you want to make a pair of this with?
  • Mood DIY: Removeable Collar Tutorial

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    Ever wanted to add a collar to your ensemble without permanently altering your top? Removable shirt collars are a simple and quick way to do it. Removable collars can help add a pop of color or a print to your shirt, help dress up a basic tee, or just keep your neck warm! There are a few different styles you can go with, too, like angled collars, peter pan collars, and more, plus you can play around with the design for your closures and how you attach the collar to your top! Trims are perfect for this project, too, because it’s so easy to embellish them. You could use a piece of embroidery or ribbon to tie your collar on—there’s lots of room to experiment! That’s what’s so appealing about removable collars; they’re wonderful to work with and make since the design is so versatile and open-ended. To help give you some ideas, we’ve put together a quick tutorial for how to sew an angled collar as well as a peter pan collar. Removable collars look especially cute tied with a bow, so get ready for ribbons! The Materials List will be separated into three lists, one for each of the three collar types that this tutorial goes over, so you can have an easier time planning out your own project!

    Materials List

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    Nautical Collar 1/4 YDs Optic White Mercerized Cotton Shirting 1/2 YDs Navy Corded Crochet Trim - 3.5" 1/2 YDs White Water Jet Loom Interlining and Fusible 1/2 YDs 1/4" Light Navy Single Face Satin Ribbon 22 Egg Shell 250m Gutermann Sew All Thread Pattern Pieces #4 and #5 from Vogue Pattern #V8927  

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    Striped Peter Pan Collar 1/4 YDs Black/Multicolored Striped Floral Cotton Poplin 1/4 YDs Optic White Mercerized Cotton Shirting 1/2 YDs 1/2" Misty Turquoise Single Face Satin Ribbon 1/4 YDs White Water Jet Loom Interlining and Fusible Peter Pan Collar Pattern by Mood Peter Pan Collar Pattern by Mood 10 Black 250m Gutermann Sew All Thread  

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    Cherry Blossom Peter Pan Collar 1/4 YDs Italian Ivory Solid Cotton Shirting 1/2 YDs 1" Metallic Rose Floral Lace Trim 1/4 YDs White Water Jet Loom Interlining and Fusible Peter Pan Collar Pattern by Mood Peter Pan Collar Pattern by Mood 323 Old Rose 100m Gutermann Sew All Thread   Notions Iron and Ironing Board Mood Brand Lia Sewing Machine Craft Pints 8" Fiskars All-Purpose Scissors Dritz Size 9 Sharp Needles   Nautical Collar The first to go over is the Nautical style collar! Since this is a piece from a brand-name pattern, this tutorial will focus on how to go about embellishing with the navy crochet trim.

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    When you cut out your fabric and interlining, you'll need two cuts of the collar and the collar stand, as well as one cut of interlining for each of those pieces. Iron your interlining to each of the cuts, and grab your navy trim. The navy trim should be layered between one collar cut and one collar stand cut, with the interlining sides facing OUT, and when placing the trim between your two pieces, line the straight edge side of the trim at the points of the top side of the collar piece. Do not turn and pin the trim to go with the curve!! You want it to be straight to get the look in the final photo!

    Pin the layers together, making sure the collar stand piece is longer than the actual collar (this should NOT be gathered!). and sew the plain seam. Trim along the seam you just sewed.

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    You're going to do the same with the other pieces, minus the trim layer!

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    This next step is similar to when you're making a pillow; pin your two halves right side together. You're going to sew along these lines:

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    We need the three unmarked spots left open so that we can turn the collar right-side-out and also have a place to attach our ribbon closures! Once you sew these seams, clip along all the edges carefully, trim any excess threads needed, and turn your collar right-side-out. Don't cut your seams!

    From here, press your collar flat so it's easier to work with. You'll need to make sure all the corners are filled out (use a clean, thin dowl or paint brush handle!).

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    Now take your 1/2 of ribbon and cut it in half, and trim the other end so that they're the same length. Pin the ribbon into the open edges of the collar stand, and then go ahead and top stitch a border around your collar stand piece. 

    After that is done, flip your collar stand up and iron it down. Tie your bow, and you're all done!   Striped Peter Pan Collar

    Next up is our striped collar! These steps are a bit simpler. For the pattern, we drew one up ourselves. Click here to download the pattern! Print out the pattern and cut out the paper along the lines, seam allowance is included!

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    Cut out your two fabrics, one collar pattern piece in the striped fabric and one in the white, and then one cut of interlining. Iron the interlining to wrong side of the striped fabric.

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    Pin your pieces right sides together and sew along the borders, making sure to leave openings like in the picture below here:

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    The opening in the collar is so you can turn it right-side-out, and the openings at the tips are for adding your ribbon!

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    Make sure to clip along the curved edges and trim an lingering threads, then turn the collar right-side-out. Fill out the shape using a clean dowl or other thin tool, and then press it flat wit your iron.

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    Next, take your 1/2 yard of ribbon and cut it in half, and trim the other ends.

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    Go ahead and pin the ribbon into the openings you left behind with the shiny side of the ribbon facing out. Using black thread, top-stitch around the entire border, making sure to back-stitch over where you inserted the ribbon.

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    And then you're all done!

    Cherry Blossom Peter Pan Collar

    And lastly, is the cherry blossom peter pan collar!

    This collar has the same steps as the striped collar, but with a few added steps beforehand as well as skipping any top-stitching.

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    This trim is an embroidery trim which means in order to attach it, it must be hand-sewn, and since it's such a loose trim design, I highly suggest pinning your trim down onto your already-cut fabric pieces in the way that you want it to lay for the final product, like so:

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    Do this for both sides before starting to sew. It's best to get the trim to lay as symmetrically as possible.

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    Sewing down just the leaves and flowers is enough to keep it flat and stable. Don't pull your threads too tight, because you want them to lay flat, and make sure to tie a knot before starting each leaf or flower and after you've completed it. It's also important to use like-colored thread (the thread listed above in the materials list matches the pink of the embroidery thread very well).

    After this step, continue as you would for the striped peter pan color, EXCEPT for top-stitching the final border. This collar does not need to be top-stitched! Make sure to iron the backside of this collar, not on the front--it's safest to keep from ironing the embroidered trim!

    And there you have it! Three simple and quick removable collar designs. See how you can change little things and make a completely different design? What designs do you think you'd like to try? Are there any trims that you'd love to see on a removable collar?

  • Mad About Plaid! "Men's Flannel Shirt" Style Post

    It's definitely flannel season! With that being said, my hubby has been wanting me to make him a shirt since forever. So, I decided to make him a nice cozy, rustic plaid flannel. Perfect for Fall if I do say so myself. Here's what I used: 3yds of Red/Blue/Brown/White Plaid Cotton Flannel: Product #308634 from MoodFabrics.com 1 yd of Blue Denim-like Cotton Chambray: Product # 308653 from MoodFabrics.com Simplicity Pattern #1544BB-Option D Men's Shirt. This shirt actually took me a couple of days to complete because it is so detailed. This is my first attempt at menswear and I'm pretty pleased with the outcome. I added a contrast denim-like chambray to the button placket, underside of the pockets, back tab, and under-collar. The contrast really brings out the blue in the pattern. This flannel is super soft and feels really yummy! The look was completed with a waffle thermal layered underneath. Mood Fabrics has so many great plaids to choose from if you're looking to make something similar. I think I'll be making myself one pretty soon. Enjoy!

    Plaid 1 copy

    Plaid 4

     Plaid 3

  • Mood DIY: Leather Messenger Bag/Backpack

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    Learning to sew with leather has been on my list for a while now, and I love things that are changeable and versatile. The solution? Make a messenger back that's also a backpack! Overall, it was a fun project, and definitely a great gift idea. Fabrics & materials used:

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    The leather base of the bag is pretty simple - 15" across and 18" up, with rounded corners on the top. The bottom is a 12"x6" oval.

    Having rarely worked with leather before this, I was a little worried about this project, but it was so much easier than expected! Plus, this stuff glided through the Mood sewing machine with no issues at all.

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    The adjustable front pocket is a 12" square with one quarter cut out. I wanted the pocket to have structure and be able to pop outward from the bag, so stiffener was a necessity. This is where the osnaburg would typically come in - it's easy to work with, strong, and keeps its shape. However, I had a bit of sticky-back foam left over from a previous project that worked wonders! I stuck three triangles onto the back, folded the seam allowance over and top-stitched them into place. The result was a perfect pyramid when the two top points were brought together.

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    The "pocket" has two positions. I put it in quotes because it's more of a little pouch, great for easy access necessities like headphones or pens or anything you can hook over the side.

    Each point has a snap on the underside so it will stay secure when the pocket is flat. To make it a pyramid, I added a snap to the middle of the bag, like you see below. The left point can be brought to the center and the right point can attach onto the extra snap on the topside of the left point.

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    The pocket was then clipped into place along the bottom of the front bag panel. It was time to attach the zipper!

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    I made two loops with the green vinyl and inserted a ring into each. They were pinned on either side of the back bag panel, between the leather and the zipper, and in line with the top of the front pocket.

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    I sewed the remainder of the zipper on both the front and back panels, which finished up the sides, and then attached the bottom of the bag.

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    After the oval base of the bag was sewn, it was just finishing details! An 8" strip of vinyl became a loop on the top rear of the messenger bag. To make the bag into a backpack, the strap simply needs to slide through this loop!

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    For the strap, I used more of the green vinyl, but this could easily be substituted with some webbing. One end was sewn onto one of the rings, while the other was attached to a clip so it can remain adjustable.

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    So will you be making one to gift this holiday season? What color scheme are you going to go with? Tell us below!

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  • Mood DIY: How to Sew a Men's Tie & Bow Tie

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    With the holidays slowly creeping in along with this chilly weather, it's time to start thinking gifts! Especially if you go the handmade route. Ties are a quick and easy go-to during the holiday season. They're fun to make, and most guys need them, so why not make some unique ones that they can't get anywhere else? To help out, we've even created a free template for both, a neck tie and a bow tie!  

    DOWNLOAD FREE TIE TEMPLATE HERE

     

    Neck Tie Instructions:

    Fabrics & materials needed: 1. For this tie, you'll have 4 pattern pieces: the main section, the tail, and two lining panels. Each template piece should be placed on the bias and already includes a 1/2" seam allowance.

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    2. Sew the main tie to the tail, right sides together.

    3. Attach your linings on either end, turn right-side out and press. (Raw edges of your lining can be finished with a pinked edge or a serger.)

    4. Fold the sides of your tie in 1/2" and press. (Be sure to check the care instructions for your fabric. Many silks will require a low setting, or even a protective pressing cloth.)

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    5. Fold the sides of your tie inward again, this time bringing them into the middle. They should overlap just slightly, but be sure the angles at the bottom are even. Press into place.

    6. Many ties simply have a bar tack toward the bottom, but I chose to slip stitch the length of the tie to keep everything laying smoothly.

    7. Add a loop and/or tag about 8" from the bottom of your tie for your tail to slip through after it's tied.

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    Bow Tie Instructions:

    Fabrics & materials used:

    1. Cut 2 bow tie pieces on the fold from your main fabric. 2. Optional: cut 1 bow tie piece from your interfacing and fuse it to one of your main fabric panels. (If you have a stiff fabric, such as a brocade or jacquard, this step may not be necessary.) 3. Sew your two panels, right-sides together. Leave a 1"-2" opening toward the center of the tie to turn your fabric right-side out. Press. 4. Slip-stitch the opening to finish your new bow tie!
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