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Fashion Sewing

  • Mood DIY: Patched Denim Moto Jacket

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    Patches, denim, and moto jackets - all three hit runways this past Fashion Week, and all three have made their way into today's project! Moto jackets are a great project since there are so many styles and directions you can go in. Make it in a classic leather for a daring look, or try a warm wool for the winter. This time I decided to give one of Mood's new denims a go; the drape is comfortable for a jacket and the herringbone design is absolutely beautiful.

    Fabrics & materials used:

    I went with the Larissa jacket pattern, excluding the elbow patches and tabs, and cut the collar, waistband, shoulder gussets, and under sleeves in a contrasting black denim.

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    I added three 3/4" spikes to each corner of the collar. The back screws off, so all I needed to do to install them was punch a small hole with an awl, insert the screw, and screw the spike on!

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    Mood has been growing the selection of patches and appliques, so I knew this was finally the project where I used some of the ones I've had my eye on. A varsity letter went perfectly on the lapel, and I added a sequined Drunk in Love patch on one of the pockets, because you can never have too much Beyoncé in your life. Each was hand-stitched on; make sure you don't accidentally sew your pocket shut!

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    As soon as I saw this beaded snake applique, I knew it need to creep over a shoulder so that's exactly where I placed it! I especially love that when the lapel and collar are down, you can see the snake's little head peeking out between them.

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    A buckle closure at the bottom of the zipper brought the whole thing together! Both of the denims I worked with went easily through the machine, which was great; and while the herringbone had a softer drape, the solid black was a little more stiff, so I was able to skip interfacing on the collar.

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    Now that it's done, I can't wait to add more patches! Which ones will you be adding to your moto jacket?

  • Leather Belt DIY

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    Belts are an essential part of any wardrobe, but they're often a rather pricey detail for such a small accessory, don't you think? Especially in the men's department; even though belts sold at stores boast high prices and quality, sometimes they don't even last a whole year! That's why I wanted to try making one myself and seeing how much of the price I could cut down. I was pleasantly surprised with the results, so I wanted to share them with all of you, too.

    This DIY is applicable for all types of fabrics or materials used for making belts, so whether you use a leather material like I did or even something like canvas or cotton, this tutorial will be good for you!

    Here's a list of what I used:

    Materials List

    - .25 YDs of Midnight Bottega Basketwoven Cow Leather - Any belt buckle - 279 Dark Midnight 100m Gutermann Sew All ThreadMood Brand Lia Sewing MachineDritz Grommet Plier Kit or  Dritz Tapered AwlDritz Tailor's ChalkDritz Size 3/9 Sharp Needles Optional: - Leather Binder or Rubber Cement - Piece of soft scrap fabric Style 2026 100/16 Singer Pins & Needles (good if using thick fabric/material) Making a belt is surprisingly easy. Don't be too intimidated by how long the page might seem; I think seeing will be easier than trying to just write the steps out, so there are lots of pictures with my notes! You can use the fabric that I listed in the materials list, but you can apply these tutorial instructions to pretty much any fabric you'd like! Once you have the basic idea down, sewing a belt together is a quick job! .

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    The first thing you should do is determine what buckle you want to use! Buckles range in all different sizes, styles, and widths, and whatever buckle you use will be crucial to deciding what size your belt will be. The buckle I used is  the bronze one in the picture above, so any measurements I talk about specifically are designed for that one.

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    Since you should have more than enough extra fabric to work with from your 1/4 yard of material, cut a couple of pieces off in the direction of the grain your fabric will be in for your final product and measure out how wide your belt will be. Don't just go by the width of the buckle's right side; your belt needs to be able to slide comfortably over the side where the clasp will rest on the left side. Sometimes the left side width is smaller than the right side because of rounded edges, so keep this in mind!

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    Take your test pieces and try them out. In the top buckle, 1.5" in. fit comfortably while the bottom one need an 1" in. width. It's very useful to test out the widths before attaching your buckles! After this, you should test to see what length you need for your strip of fabric. Take a tape measure and determine the width of your hips, or wherever your belt will be sitting when you wear it. Whatever number you come up with, add about 8-10" in. This should be the length of the fabric for your belt altogether! Keep this number in mind when you go to cut your fabric. I wanted a belt that was a little longer, and so I went with a 45" in. length and a 1" in. width.

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    Once you know how long and wide you need your belt to be, get to cutting! If your fabric is thick enough, you should only need one cut, but if you have a thinner fabric, you may want to double up or even add some thick interlining between the layers. A belt doesn't need to be incredibly thick, but it should be durable! You want your belts to last a long time. This fabric has a backing and is thick enough with just one layer, so I only needed to cut one piece for the belt.

    Just a note to add: the piece I cut here isn't the piece I used for my final product--it's wider. I wanted to make sure it would be big enough to see the differences. I trimmed this piece down further to the 1" in. measurement I needed for my bronze buckle after initially cutting this piece.

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    If your fabric has a pretty obvious grain, you may need to go back and trim the edges. With this leather fabric, I wanted to trim the sides so the edges lined up nicely with the squares of the basketwoven strips.

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    After you've trimmed your fabric down, you should trim the tail ends of your fabric strip! At least one tail end should be cut straight so that it has cornered edges. The other tail end you could be squared off as well, or you could round it off like I did here:

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    For this tutorial, the squared off end will be hidden and the rounded edge will be visible when worn! Depending on the shape you cut it into, it can change the entire look of your belt, so have fun and experiment!

    You should also take the time to double-check that your strip of fabric for your belt will fit now that it's trimmed down. Remember, the extra 8-11" in. will the be extra tail end of your belt that slips away in the belt loops of your pants when you wear it. You don't want this to be too long or too short; too long, and the belt will look too big, but too short, and the belt will look too small for you!

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    Once you have your piece shaped how you like it, go ahead and top-stitch your fabric . Make sure your bobbin as well as your spool of thread on top are full enough that you can stitch all around the border of your belt in one go! While this isn't mandatory, if will look best if you only have to back-stitch on the first squared end since it'll be hidden away later on! Work slowly and carefully--this top stitch will keep your belt together, but it will also look beautifully decorated if it's done well!

    For my belt, I did a top-stitch very close to the edge so that it was centered on the strips of the basketweave. If you're using a different fabric, feel free to guide to a 5/8" or 1/4" in. seam allowance. Start on the bottom corner of the tail end (where you can see I left the threads on the left side), go down the end, and then pivot at the corner to turn and continue all the way down the length of your belt.

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    Once you get to the other end, top-stitch according to whatever shape you made your other end into. Try to make sure this looks clean! Continue back down to the other end where you started again, back-stitch once your reach your the starting point, and trim your loose threads.

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    When you're done top-stitch, it should look nice and pretty!

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    Once your belt piece is done, put it to the side. We need to make a stay-loop for the belt now! Cut a small strip of your fabric that you're using. It should be thinner than the width you used for your belt and long enough to wrap around the width of your belt with a little extra to overlap with. Keep the edges squared. Make sure it's trimmed and nice, and then top-stitch it in the same way that you did your belt piece.

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     Next, you need to hand-sew your loop together. It shouldn't take much thread, but be extra careful if you're working with a thicker fabric. Invest in a thimble for hand-sewing with thicker fabrics--it'll save you a world of hurt!

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    When your loop is complete, slip it onto your belt!

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    For the next step, we need to cut a hole for where the arm of the buckle will go through. Measure about 1.5" in. on the end of the squared tail end of your belt and mark this spot in the center of the belt's width and then use your grommet hole cutter to punch a hole into the spot you marked. At this point, you could use your leather binder (if you're using leather like I did) or rubber cement to coat the raw edges of this hole you just punched to keep the fabric from coming apart. It's not completely necessary, but I recommend it if you're worried about the fabric fraying!

    You should now be able to slip the arm of your buckle through and fold the tail end to wrap around and behind the back of the buckle.

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    Use some Wonder Clips to hold the tail end in place and sew along the tail end to secure your buckle.

    And last but not least, we need to punch in holds for securing your belt when you wear it!

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    Try on your belt and slip it through your now-installed buckle. Find where you need the belt to be tightened to so it sits comfortably where you'll be wearing it and mark this point with your tailor's chalk. Remove your belt and use a tape measure to mark where the other holes need to be. I marked two on each side of the first marking I made about 1" in. apart each. This will allow you to use your belt regardless if you need it to be looser or tighter!

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    When you have your markings where you'd like them, take your grommet hole punch again and get to work punching holes over your markings. Here's a little tip: use a napkin or scrap piece of softer fabric to hold against the front when you punch the holes to keep the front of your fabric from coming out messy!

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    Clean buckle holes for your belt! Again, use your leather binder or rubber cement to seal these.

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    And now you should be done! Slip it on and try out your new fashion-forward belt you made for half the cost of what you see in stores. If you need to buy the tools, making a belt can be a little extra money, but once you have the tools to use, you can easily make more for a small fraction of the cost!

  • Mood DIY: African Print Peplum Shirt

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    The weather in NYC is impossible to predict, it seems. The sunny, 70 degree Friday afternoon when I made this shirt has since given way to ice rain as I write this. Boo!

    Luckily, peplums never seem to go out of season! Layering is key in the fall and winter, particularly around the holidays when you could find yourself sweltering next to a fireplace.

    Fabrics & materials needed:

    The McCall's dress pattern is listed as optional because any bodice pattern with princess seams will do the trick! For my shirt, I cut out View C (with no center seam) just down to the waistline. For the peplum, I essentially made a tiny circle skirt with the template below.

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    If you've never made a circle skirt before, fold your fabric in half along the weft and then again along the warp. One of your corners should have folds on either side, place that one at the top left.

    From that same corner, you should cut a small circle with an equal radius all the way around. To find yours, divide your waist size by 2(3.14). For example, a 31" waist will require a 5" radius.

    Once your radius is measured and marked, you can draw the bottom curve of your "skirt". Since it's just a peplum, I made my desired length about 10" from the radius.

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    Once everything was cut, it was time to pin!

    Rather than sew the shirt together normally, I chose to add some bias tape in between the seams. This gave the shirt an even more graphic feel, and also hid things a little better if the fabric design didn't line up perfectly. (Matching just doesn't seem to get easier!)

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    To keep some of the bulk down, and to use the least amount possible, I cut the bias tape down the middle. It was then placed between each seam, with the exception of the shoulders.

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    Once it was pinned between the fabric, it went through the machine normally with a 1/2" seam allowance.

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    The peplum was added last and the remaining raw edges were bound with the folded bias tape.

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    Finished, it's a fun and bouncy top that can be worn and styled for a plethora of occasions. Plus, it can be made out of so many different fabric types! What are you going to make yours with?

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  • Wool and Brocade LBD

    In my opinion, you can never have too many little black dresses.  With the holiday season fast approaching , this little black dress with perfectly placed brocade and a silhouette that ensures you don't need to worry about any midsection bloat, it's number one on my list. The dress was made using this Donna Karan double face medium weight wool which should be a staple in everyone's stash.  It's easy to sew, cut and iron  and will definitely maintain it's shape. This gold ikat brocade  is just beautiful.  It's lighter weight with gold strands throughout.  Easy to cut, sew and iron.  I lined the dress with a silk charmeuse. The pattern used was vintage Simplicity 6219 with the following pattern alterations: -Added 4" to the length -Added 2" to the length of the sleeve -Added 24" to the width of the front of the pattern -Added a V-shape seam to the back of the pattern -After sewing the front and back pieces together at the seam, take the remaining front fabric and pleat using an inverted pleat. -Added the brocade to the bodice of the dress in a V-shape (it's light weight and will not bulk).  Fold the bottom of the brocade under 1/4"  and double topstitch the bottom of the brocade to the bodice. -Added side seam pockets   mood wool-and-brocade-dress wool-and-brocade4 wool-and-brocade2 wool-and-brocade-dress3 wool-and-brocade5 wool-and-brocade6
  • Zodiac Gift Guide

    Zodiac sign readings and horoscopes might not always be completely accurate, but they can be fun to look up and share with others! They give little insights to the type of person you might feel you are, or they might just give you another perspective to see things from that you hadn't thought of before. A fresh look is always exciting, so we wanted to put together a kind of fabric horoscope that would do this for everyone to try! Combined with DIYs and other sources of inspiration linked for your convenience, we've tried to narrow down and tailor a fabric and design for each Zodiac Sign that could help you find a style choice for yourself, or even for a friend or loved one as a gift! Take a look below and see which of our sign designs you like best! No one is made up of a single Zodiac sign, so don't be surprised if you find yourself loving more than one! There are only positive vibes in these designs--have fun with it!

    Aries: Sequins, high energy, and bright colors!

    Aries signs are usually know for being very self-motivated and passionate, and that energy should shine out! We think sequins fit them for this purpose! Sequins glitter in any light and make a statement the moment they're seen, which can be a great asset. Take a look at our latest stock of sequin fabrics and trims here! Bright colors would fit this sign as well. If sequins aren't your thing, a bright, strong color can be just as effective for showing off that confident personality. Consider this DIY, especially if you're iffy on sporting a sequin piece! There's no shame in going for a more mature or muted design. You can look just as fierce in this style!

    And with all that energy to use, plenty of you probably try to keep up with a daily workout plan! (If you don't already, consider trying it out for fun!) This phone case armband DIY will make it easy to keep in touch during your workouts or to carry your music with you. Music can make a world of difference during a workout and can be a great motivator for both pros and novices!

    For some Other Inspirations, check out this Mood Trend Report: Trend Report: Milan Fashion Week | Spring 2017

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    Taurus: Tweeds, stable but comforting and warm!

    Taurus is known for being a sturdy sign where comfort and stability are key! A warm skirt or jacket made of tweed will last forever if you take good care of it (and Taurus signs will!) and they'll look professional. The muted colors tweeds usually come in will also give off a mature appearance. Take a look at our latest stock of tweed fabrics here! Consider this color-block wool skirt DIY if you have little experience with working with tweeds! Practical and comfortably conservative, this skirt is easy to assemble and will maintain a long lifespan with you!

    And when you're ready to bundle up at home and take that time for yourself, consider doing so with this handy reading pillow! Fashioned with multiple pockets for storing writing and/reading materials, this pillow project is great at multi-tasking as it is at relaxing! (Plus it's super cute!)

    For some Other Inspirations, check out this Mood Trend Report: Trend Report: Fall 2016 Office Fashion and Styles

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    Gemini: Brocades, versatile, and creative!

    Geminis have a lot going on in their heads creatively, and fashion is a great medium to express that through! Fabrics that are organized with a lot of detail are great for this purpose! Some might think these styles are too "busy," but when crafted carefully (and with your natural expertise!) into your style, they can look stunning! Brocades are perfect for this! Fabrics with duality are also appealing for these signs, because it allows them to switch up the style without having to find a new piece! Take a look at our latest stock of brocade fabrics here! Consider this bomber jacket DIY for a versatile design that can keep up with your need for something refreshing! Reversible and beautiful, a brocade bomber jacket will be just the thing you've been looking to add to your wardrobe!

    Another hidden gem to add to your accessory collection is a cord and chain bracelet! Though small in size, a bright and colorful piece of jeweley can bring your entire look together!

    For some Other Inspirations, check out this Mood Trend Report: New York Fashion Week Trend Report | Fall 2016

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    Cancer: Performance Fabrics, energetic, and positive!

    Cancer signs are sensitive to the energy and emotions around them, and that sensitivity comes out best through positive interaction and activities! Hobbies like dancing and working out are natural outlets for you, which is why performance fabrics are a great fit! The more the fabric and outfit flows, the better, and it'll follow with you as you dance your way through your day. Take a look at our latest stock of performance fabrics here! Athletic and charismatic, Cancer signs feel best when they're sharing their excitement and energy with others, making you one of the best influences on the people around you. Solid, bright colors are good, but a print will help you reach out well, too! Consider this DIY for a flowing skirt and matching crop top that won't restrict your blinding and sweet personality! Continue sharing your positive outlook and it will come back to you!

    This adorable watermelon purse will bring an extra slice of energy to your wardrobe! With its shine and bright colors, just looking at it will lift your spirits!

    For some Other Inspirations, check out this Mood Trend Report: Trend Report: New York Fashion Week | Spring 2017

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    Leo: Faux furs, intelligent, and warm tones!

    Strong and confident are the usual qualities of this sign's focus, but they're more than just a proud face! Their intelligence is what makes them so strong-minded, and their confidence is what drives their action-oriented personalities. But for all their motivation , they can also be reserved and quiet in their personalities, eager to be there for others. Faux fur is show-stopping and needs a wearer who's bold enough to wear such a fabric confidently! Combined with warm tones, this fabric's style shows off the inviting personalities of Leos. Take a look at our latest stock of faux fur fabrics here! Consider this DIY for a simple but powerful faux fur vest piece! It's a stylish garment that will make you look and feel like a rock star that the world is waiting to see.

     What better way to show off your intelligent disposition than with a neck tie or bow tie? Try this DIY with a paisley fabric to add a more familiar or personable touch to your image!

    For some Other Inspirations, check out this Mood Trend Report: Trend Report: Brocades on the Runway .

    Virgo: Viscose, reliable, and modest!

    Virgo signs are loyal and positively analytical, making them reliable and dependable friends! Their desire to be prepared fuels this reliable quality, and while they prioritize being ready for most situations, they see this as merely a logical way to live. This makes them a fairly modest and admirable people. Viscose fabrics are both comfortable and adaptable, which fits Virgo signs well! Viscose has great stretch so it can conform and flow when needed, and its subtle sheen makes it a beautiful addition for many designs! Take a look at our latest stock of  viscose fabrics here! Consider this t-shirt dress DIY for a cute and comfy look to make with your favorite Viscose fabrics!

    And for all the modest and reserved design one might think of along with a Virgo, shake it up with an accessory that stands out! Design your own faux fur pompom key-chain and show off to the world that you may be dependable, but you don't mind spoiling yourself from time-to-time, too (which is good!).

    For some Other Inspirations, check out this Mood Trend Report: Trend Report: Fall Pantone Forecast

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    Libra: Velvets, balanced fabrics, and soft textures!

    Libra signs are probably the softest and most cooperative sign, generally speaking, and they're good at being around other people (because they love to be around them!). They are a very balanced sign in that they can get along with most kind and good-natured people easily, making them very pleasant company. A nice Lyons velvet or stretch velvet could be great for this sign! The colors that velvet comes in are usually easy on the eyes, which is pleasing to both the wearer and passersby. Velvets are also soft, which would be comfortable to the gentle minds of the Libra sign. Take a look at our latest stock of  velvet fabrics here! Consider making a velvet dress with this DIY! This dress has a lovely flare and a tapered fit that's perfect for the fall season.

    For a little bit more flare, add an accessory like these tassel earrings! Another simple assembly project, these earrings will jump your ensemble up from casual to dazzling!

    For some Other Inspirations, check out this Mood Trend Report: Trend Report: Paris Fashion Week | Spring 2017

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    Scorpio: Leathers, resourceful, and wise!

    Scorpios are a brilliant sign known for being the truest of friends, and their passion for others makes them resourceful and assertive when they need to protect others. They are wise with their loyalty and honest in all their efforts. Truth can be a big deal to them. This is why leather fabrics fit them so well! Leathers are worn and beautiful, and they're strength makes them durable and long-lasting. Take a look at our latest stock of  leather and faux leather fabrics here! For a brave and confident sign like this, a style has to match to them! We think this bomber jacket with a twist DIY would be perfect for Scorpio, because it takes a bold and confident person to both create and pull off this style! Scorpios who are confident about strutting through in a jacket like this will look fantastic!

    Don't think we've forgotten about the leather! A hand-crafted bag like this messenger bag/backpack combination DIY is what a Leo might be looking for! Multi-styled accessories like this are hard to come by, just like true friends!

    For some Other Inspirations, check out this Mood Trend Report: Trend Report: Satin Draping

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    Sagittarius: Guipure Lace, a extroverted, and enthusiastic!

    A wandering soul with a heart for exploring, Sagittarius signs enjoy their freedom! This sign is very extroverted and loves engaging with people and the outside world, and being dressed for it is important! Things like statement pieces and conversation starters are perfect for this sign. Other great pieces are ornate fabrics for going out to socialize, like guipure lace! With scalloped edges and geometric designs, these intricate fabrics are gorgeous and stand out in a crowd. This complex design will reflect this sign's complex and interesting personality! Take a look at our latest stock of  guipure lace fabrics here! Consider trying this Lace Kimono DIY for a quick and easy garment that looks beautiful and stunning!

    And to mix it up a bit, try dressing up a simple shirt or dress collar with a hand-made removable collar! These are a lovely way to play up your look without making any permanent alterations to your clothing--no strings attached!

    For some Other Inspirations, check out this Mood Trend Report: Trend Report: Abstract Prints

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    Capricorn: Cotton prints, honest, and rational!

    Capricorn signs are wonderful people who should be valued for their directness and honesty! Interacting with people like this is easy, because you never have to second guess what they're thinking--they'll tell you themselves! Their presence can be comforting in that way, and they'll always help in the most rational way they can see themselves. Their truthful efforts make them responsible and capable people, and their self-control is admirable. A fabric like cotton--tried, traditional, and true--is a perfect fit for this sign! Sport a cotton print to add a little style without having to put in too much extra effort (though they'll appreciate the extra effort, too!). Take a look at our latest stock of cotton prints fabrics here! Consider this plaid flannel shirt DIY to make for yourself or someone you know! Flannel and cotton shirts are pieces that can look incredible when their corners are crisp and their designs are sleek. Take the time to carefully put together a shirt like this, and this sign will be thoroughly impressed to hear you made it yourself!

    While a bolder print may not be your thing, changing up your style or combining it with one that your comfortable with can be refreshing! Try making yourself a pair of these custom fit leggings for a chic and comfortable style!

    For some Other Inspirations, check out this Mood Trend Report: Trend Report: NYFW Fall Forecast | Spring 2017 .

    Aquarius: Silk Charmeuse, innovative, and elegant!

    Aquarians are often noted for their attention to detail and their never-ending effort to improve, even when others think they're already at their best! This is because they constantly have new ideas that they think their project would look better with, and they don't mind getting their hands a little dirty to do it. Hard work always pays off for this sign! But for all their readiness to do the hard labor, they'll appreciate looking good, too, because they're good enough to balance both! A beautiful silk charmeuse  fits this sign. There's nothing better than someone who can do hard work and look elegant doing it! Take a look at our latest stock of silk charmeuse fabrics here! Consider trying out this ribbon tie blouse DIY made with silk charmeuse! It's a cute and dainty style, but that doesn't meant you can't get down to business and be taken seriously wearing it! Show them how it's done!

    Consider this velvet choker DIY for making an every-day accessory that's subtle yet stylish. Hold your head high knowing you've got the right ideas to take on your day!

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    For some Other Inspirations, check out this Mood Trend Report: Trend Report: Cotton Eyelets .

    Pisces: Silk Chiffons, artistic, and sophisticated!

    Truly a child of the arts, Pisces signs may thrive best through a creative outlet that lets them express emotions and their naturally intuitive thoughts! Clothing designs and styles that are too stiff or modern may seem boring, so look for or create your own patterns that help you feel right in your own skin. Ornate sleeves or decorative trims paired with smooth and shiny fabrics might fit your tastes better than others! A silk chiffon could be your perfect go-to fabric for this. These flow beautifully, feel smooth, and look like they're from a different time.  Take a look at our latest stock of silk chiffon fabrics here! Consider this buttoned sleeve shirt DIY that uses silk chiffon for a style that will make you feel both modern and elegant!

    For an accessory that incorporates aspects of nature or flowers, try making this fabric floral crown DIY! This is another cute and elegant piece to share!

     

    For some Other Inspirations, check out this Mood Trend Report: Trend Report: London Fashion Week | Spring 2017

  • Mood Style: Sewing a Fit & Flare Velvet Dress

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    In the spirit of Fall, I decided I wanted to work with some velvet. It's rich, warm, and always looks lovely; plus Mood had just gotten some new luxury Lyons velvet in. All was perfect!

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    Fabrics & materials used:

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    Since this season seems to be all about layering, I didn't mind that the pattern was sleeveless - although adding sleeves wouldn't have been too difficult! I chose a slightly shortened version of View D, choosing to use the velvet as the center panels, and the laser-cut scuba layered over the satin as the side panels.

    Each fabric was absolutely wonderful to work with, and the cold dye satin was so beautiful that I was almost sad to be covering it up. I'll need to think up a new project where I can use it again!

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    Since each of the fabrics was opaque and soft to the touch, I decided against a lining and instead opted for some French seams. This kept some of the bulk down and brought the dress together fairly quickly.

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    It's fun and simple, easily paired with leggings and boots or even a sweater and infinity scarf! How would you style it?

  • All About Necklines

    Necklines_Graphic_Copy Variety and fashion go hand-in-hand, and that applies to necklines, too! Necklines are a great piece to play and experiment with for designing tops. You can go for function and practicality or focus on style and appearance--any everything in between! Necklines are one of the most defining features of a top, which is why they're so great to work with, and you can use them to make a huge statement for your ensemble.

    We've collected together some of the most popular and common necklines styles and drawn up examples to compare and contrast below. Take a look and share your thoughts on your favorite designs with us!

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    SCOOP2SCOOP NECKLINE

    A very common neckline, especially with store-brands. Circular in shape and has a flat collar that rests close to or on the clavicle. You could consider it one of the basic types of necklines, because it’s basically a neckline without a defined collar. This type of neckline can be great with almost any fabric, but is often found on knit shirts.          

    VNECK2V-NECK NECKLINE

    Another common neckline where the front half of the collar is angled down the center to form V-shape. It, too, is a common store-brand-type neckline and is usually a dressier design that the SCOOP NECKLINE. These can be made in many types of fabrics, but it’s especially good at keeping its shape in structured fabrics. The appearance is crisp and clean, making it very appealing and sharp!        

    UNECK2U-NECK NECKLINE

    A neckline that drops a little lower than a SCOOP or V-NECK NECKLINE and is basically a wider version of a SCOOP NECKLINE. It rests below the clavicle and is great for accentuating the chest. Because of the open space over the chest, these necklines are great for showing off necklaces as a statement piece!            

    SQUARE2SQUARE NECKLINE

    Like the V-NECK NECKLINE in that it has a strong, defined shape to it. A SQUARE NECKLINE dips down and has the sharp structured outline of a square. Goes well for stiff fabrics, designs, and garments.              

    HALTER2HALTER NECKLINE

    A neckline that is free at the shoulders and arms, is open at the back, and hangs from the neck alone. This is a common design in all kinds of garments from shirts and dresses to bathing suits. It’s a very feminine kind of neckline that looks great when showing off the shoulders and back. The strap around the neck can be detachable or a single piece, and is sometimes closed with ties and a bow. This design is used for both shirt and dress tops.        

    ASYMMETRIC2ASYMMETRIC NECKLINE

    ASYMMETRICAL NECKLINES can vary in design. Some have a neckline paired with a strap, others have one side with a cut-out, or even a single-strap design—the list can go on. The point is to have the two sides designed differently, hence the asymmetry. These designs are great for more modern and stylish looks.          

    MOCKNECK2MOCKNECK NECKLINE

    MOCK NECK NECKLINES have necklines that come up very high and sit above the clavicle, and they are finished with a thin, standing collar. These necklines are different from the turtle-neck collar design; the collar does not fold over.              

    CREWNECK2CREWNECK NECKLINE

    These necklines sit lower than a MOCK NECK NECKLINE and have a flat collar that is more like a ribbed-knit trim. They look like the necklines of pullover sweaters and resemble a SCOOP NECKLINE. These are worn for comfort and are usually not incorporated into fancier designs.            

    HIGHNECK2HIGHNECK NECKLINE

    Like a HALTER NECKLINE, but with an attached back. These necklines are a more conservative design, but they still retain the classy appeal. A high-standing collar paired with a HIGH NECK NECKLINE is a stunning look that is also great for showing off one’s arms.            

    BOATNECK2BOATNECK NECKLINE

    BOAT NECK NECKLINES are another feminine design. Tops with this neckline rest from the shoulders and have a wide opening for the neckline that hangs just a bit in the front and back in a kind of bowed shape. This is where the “boat neck” image comes from, as in the underside of a boat. It’s a very elegant garment style that uses the larger volume of fabric to help the wearer look smaller and more petite.          

    COWL2COWL NECKLINE

    Like an over-sized turtle neck design, a COWL NECKLINE sports a huge and loose collar that sits around the neck. The collar of these necklines is usually very long when stretched out, but they are intended to sit gathered around the neck. It’s a very comfortable style of fashion that’s great for knits and other soft-handed fabrics.          

    ILLUSION2ILLUSION NECKLINE

    ILLUSION NECKLINES are one of the more decorative types of necklines that play with empty space. Paired with low-laying necklines, the empty space between the upper breast line and up to the neck is usually filled in with a sheer or see-through kind of fabric like lace or netting.            

    STRAPLESS2STRAPLESS NECKLINE

    These necklines also sit low and are exactly what their name implies: necklines without straps. The actual shape of the neckline can vary (like STRAIGHT to SWEETHEART NECKLINES), but STRAPLESS designs are identified as any neckline design not supported with straps. Support for these types of necklines come instead in the form of things like boning, close-fitting cuts, and elastic.          

    STRAIGHT2STRAIGHT NECKLINE

    A neckline that literally goes straight across the chest. This neckline doesn’t usually reach up to the clavicle or actual neck on the wearer, but sits just under the arms. It’s a popular design choice for dresses and gowns as a strapless design, but it's also paired with spaghetti straps just as often.            

    SWEETHEART2SWEETHEART NECKLINE

    A strapless neckline design that gets its name from its “heart-shaped” hemline at the top of the bodice. These are often used on dresses and gowns as well as corsets and are especially popular for wedding gowns.              

    PLUNGE2PLUNGE NECKLINE

    A PLUNGE NECKLINE is a neckline whose straps or front-facing bodice cuts deep down the middle of the chest to under the breast line. It’s not exactly a type of cut-out, but it does incorporate exposure into the design. This is a design that’s popular with gowns and dresses, and its straps are often gathered together, giving the cups of the shirt or dress top a pleated look.             What neckline designs have you incorporated into your projects before? Or if you haven't worked on shirts before, what necklines would you like to learn how to make or work with?
  • Mood DIY: How to Sew Men's Jogger Pants

     men's camo jogger pants

    Jogger pants have been an activewear favorite for a while now, but recently they've been showing up more and more on high fashion runways. They've moved on from their initial, comfy knit vibe to become a staple of casual chic, appearing as every fabric type imaginable - from suiting to canvas to sateen.
    OAMC | Fall 2016 Menswear OAMC | Fall 2016 Menswear
    Hogan | Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear Hogan | Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear
    Alexander Wang | Fall 2016 Menswear Alexander Wang | Fall 2016 Menswear
    With Mood's digital camo going on sale this weekend, I decided to hop on this trend with a pair of cotton ripstop joggers. The fabric was a little structured, but ended up sewing and pressing wonderfully, which made the final product look fantastic. Fabrics and materials used: Rather than reinvent the wheel, I chose to alter a pre-made pattern, specifically Burda's men's trousers. The pattern was easily to follow, and looked fairly tailored so the style was nearly perfect. The first alteration was the sizing. Since joggers tend to be a little more relaxed, I cut most of my pattern pieces 2 sizes larger than what I would cut for regular, fitted pants. The only thing I kept the correct size was the waistband.

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    Another thing to note about altering this pattern is the length. Joggers bunch up a little bit at the ankle or calf, but it's still very likely that you'll need to shorten the legs of this pant if you're looking to make your own. However, while most patterns have a lengthen/shorten line like the one you see above, this is not one of the times you'll be using it.

    unnamed (1)

    For most length alterations, you want to do it in the middle of the panel and grade it accordingly, rather than simply chopping the bottom section off. Doing so might mess up the tapering of the leg. In this case though, you actually want to cut your panel at a wider section so there's a little more to gather into the rib knit trim later on. If you're unsure of how much to cut off the bottom, you can always make the full pants and decide the length after a fitting.

    unnamed (2)

    Other than the sizing and length, I followed the rest of the pattern to a T. Since the waistband was slightly smaller than the rest of the pattern, I added to the darts on the back; and of course, in lieu of a typical pant hem, I added some rib knit trim.

    men's camo jogger pants

    men's camo jogger pants

    Overall, they're casual, chic, and versatile! Wear them down to the ankle year-round, or push them up to the calf for those warmer afternoons.

    men's camo jogger pants

    men's camo jogger pants

    So tell me below, what style joggers would you make? I'd love to hear what type of fabrics you'd use!

  • Mood DIY: Double-breasted Pea Coat

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    Autumn is here, and that means it's time to break out the pea coats! Known for their sturdy outside and a silky satin inside, the ever-trendy double-breasted pea coat is a beloved staple of the fashion world. The look is usually topped off with a set of buttons, and they give off  a mature yet fierce look for all who wear them. Muted colors go great with this style, and you can decorate them with embellished buttons or more reserved ones--both look will look fantastic! This particular pea coat was made using a pattern from Butterick, Pattern #B5685. Its design sports a high waist, an over-sized collar, 3 different lengths to work with, pockets, and a 4-button closure. It's best made with fabrics like lightweight woolens, lightweight tweeds, and poplins. We made ours with wool coating! Here's a full list of the materials used to make this jacket:

    Materials List

    Mood Brand Lia Sewing Machine 2 3/4 YDs of Marc Jacobs Double Cloth Black Wool Coating 2 YDs of Ivory Stretch Polyester Satin Dritz 250 Long White Ball Pins 10 Black 250m Gutermann Sew All Thread (for sewing and top-stitching the coating) 20 White 500m Gutermann Sew All Thread (for sewing lining) White/Black Plastic Button - 40L/25mm Butterick Pattern #B5685: Misses' Double-Breasted Jacket and Coat Dritz Tailor's Chalk   The fabrics used to make this coat include a double cloth black wool coating by March Jacobs for the main fabric and an ivory stretch poly-satin for the lining. We chose this wool coating because pea coats tend to be made with a nice, thick fabric, and we wanted to replicate that. A thicker fabric is the sensible route for coats like this, and it's so worth it when the garment is completed; the quality really shows, both in construction and style! Pea coats are also winter garment and should be constructed as such if you intend to wear it for the colder seasons (though there's no harm in going with a lighter fabric when it's warmer!). This wool coating has a soft exterior, a tough, tight weave, and a slight one-way stretch. The subtle diagonal is very easy on the eyes, too. The poly-satin lining has a gorgeous sheen, and it's so soft to the touch. The coat fits nice and loose without being over-sized (save for that collar!) and it's incredibly comfortable to wear. The extra room provided by the pattern allows for easy layering for completing an entire ensemble, and perhaps the best part is the stretch of the lining—it doesn’t feel constricting when you wear it!

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    This wool coating turned out great for this jacket! The contrast between the coating and the satin lining looks astonishing.

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    The sharp angle of the collar is striking as well, and it will give a nice squared shape to your top silhouette. The buttons work together with the collar's design to pull this off.

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    You can flip the collar up while still maintaining its shape, too!

    IMG_0447

    And the princess cut of the bodice frames nicely. With the addition of the longer sleeves, this coat is pretty irresistible!

     If you're looking to add a little something to your design of this jacket, considering using faux fur trim around the sleeve cuffs or the wide collar! You could use any kind of large buttons on the front too, or maybe even add a hood! There are plenty of ways to spice this look up!   There are a few things to keep in mind when constructing a coat or garment with thicker fabrics and lots of layers like this one: One is to invest in denim sewing machine needles. Thicker fabric is more work for your sewing machine, and when you have to work with as many layers as a pattern like this calls for, it can be very easy to break a needle if it's not well-suited for thicker fabrics (regular universal needles have  a higher chance of snapping!) We recommend these: Style 2026 100/16 Singer Pins & Needles Another tip is to definitely make use of your tailor's chalk. If you're working with any lighter-colored fabrics, go with the blue chalk, and make the time to mark all of the spots the pattern tells you to. The pattern can be overwhelming if you're below mid-level sewing skills, but having the markings make the pattern much clearer and the garment puts together fairly easily because of them! A word of caution for the poly-satin: this may be obvious, but the satin is pretty slippery. It will slide around under your presser foot, so go the extra mile and pin a little more. Keep that satin from sliding around! Especially with the pockets and the sleeve linings, add a few more pins to help keep the pattern pieces stable as you sew. You'll thank yourself later! Lastly, when you're sewing a lot of layers together (like when attaching the collar to the bodice or the bodice to the lower half of the jacket), DON'T RUSH; SEW SLOWLY. Use the sewing machine wheel manually to go over areas that are piled high with layers or bumps, too! This can save you from breaking a needle! Take your time and work carefully. This goes for any level seamstress. And there you have it! We look forward to seeing your versions of this design and comments about how it went! Let us know: Have you made a pea coat before? Do you have any extra tips to share for making them?
  • Mood Style: Bomber Jacket with a Twist

    My newest obsession along with the rest of the fashion population, is the bomber jacket.  The beauty of the bomber jacket is it's ability to put a casual spin on any look. What I wanted to do was make an effort to elevate the simple bomber jacket by making it in this beautiful silk and wool fabric , give it an exaggerated sleeve and peplum and line it in this silk charmeuse. I don't think there are enough descriptive words to explain how beautiful this silk is.  The moment it arrived and I opened the package, I fell in love.  The color is gorgeous and looks and feels rich.  It cuts and sews beautifully and  It's a medium weight perfect for fall and based off the weather were having, winter as well. Chandler's jacket was made with leftover fabric from our digitally printed dress and skirt. The pattern I used for my jacket was this Burdastyle downloaded jacket with the following pattern alterations: -Added 1.5" to the width of the collar -Added silk piping along the back bodice seam -Added a peplum by cutting 1-10"x50" and 2- 10"x25" -Added a 1 1/2" band at the bottom of the peplum -Used the sleeve to McCall's M5937 and added 12" to the width of the bottom of the sleeve to create a fuller sleeve.  Pleat the sleeve when attaching it to the cuff -Added a ribbed cuff -Added a 20" brass jacket zipper Chandler's jacket was made using a self drafted pattern. *The pants are diy previously seen here bomber-jacket_mood_ bomber-jacket2 bomber-jacket3 bomber-jacket4 bomber-jacket6 bomber-jacket5 bomber-jacket7
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