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Free Patterns

  • Mood Cosplay: Free GotG2 Star-Lord Jacket Pattern

    You can't defend the galaxy in just anything. To celebrate Superhero Day, as well as the upcoming release of Guardians of the Galaxy Vol 2., I recreated Star-Lord's newest jacket. The best part? There's a free template, so you can make your own, look fabulous, and start kicking some alien butt!


    (The template is roughly a men's large, with a 40" chest.)

    Fabrics & materials used:  

    1. Paint Mixing

    Once all of the pattern pieces are cut out, you can start painting. Be sure to have everything in one place, sorted for light red and dark red. Also, don't be stingy with your paint mixing. You don't want to run out and risk making a slightly different shade with your next batch.   Light Red
    • 1 - Sleeve Top
    • 3 - Sleeve Bottom
    • 4 - Back Yoke
    • 5 - Center Back
    • 7 - Center Front Top
    • 8 - Center Front Bottom
    • 10 - Front Yoke
    • 11 - Front Zipper Flap (1)
    • 13 - Jacket Waistband
    • All belts
    Dark Red
    • 2 - Elbow Band
    • 6 - Side Back
    • 9 - Side Front
    • 11 - Front Zipper Flap (1)
    • 12 - Shoulder Armor
    • 14 - Jacket Collar
    • 15 - Forearm Armor
    I did a lot of mix testing and found that a good ratio for the light red was one entire bottle of Fire Red, mixed with about 2 teaspoons of Black. The paint will look a lot brighter and more saturated while it's still wet. It will also show a lot of brush strokes, but after only two coats, I couldn't even tell the faux leather had been painted. The color was smooth and even.  

    2. Sleeve Ribbing

    Before painting the elbow bands, I tried to decide how I wanted to imitate the ribbing on Star-Lord's jacket. My first test was encasing some cording withing the faux leather using an invisible zipper foot. The results ended up being fairly similar to simple pintucks, so I decided to go the pintuck route and skip the extra steps. To make your own pintucks without a special sewing machine foot, simply fold over your faux leather 1/4", keep the left side of your foot aligned with the last tuck and the right side aligned with the edge of your fabric. I put 18" pintucks on either of my panels, and then gave it a coat of paint.  

    3. Decorative Stitching

    Star-Lord's jacket has decorate stitching in a few areas, namely pattern pieces 5, 7, and 10, as well as the upper and lower shoulder armor. Before beginning to construct your jacket, follow the stitching lines on each of these pattern pieces.  

    4. Inserting Snaps

    Before getting into the construction details, I wanted to take a minute to discuss adding snaps. The plier kit from Dritz makes it super easy. The black rubber side has a sharp extender that can puncture your fabric for you. For some of the thicker layers, you can also use an awl or a seam ripper to make the puncture a little larger if need be. The flat side of the snap gets inserted through the puncture in your fabric and the other side is inserted into the rubber part of the pliers. Once the pliers are shut, the extender bends the metal of the snap to secure both pieces into place. Super quick, and incredibly easy!  

    6. Jacket Construction

    A. The Torso

    I added an extra 1/8" of seam allowance in order to sew French seams when I cut out my pattern pieces. If you're not familiar with how to do them, sew your pieces wrong sides together and trim your seam allowances, like you see above, and then sew the same pieces with the right sides together as you normally would. This encases any raw edges within the seam and sometimes eliminates the need for a lining. To start constructing your jacket, sew the CENTER FRONT TOP (7) to the FRONT YOKE (10). After completing a French seam, I chose to top-stitch them down, like you see in the photo above. Repeat with your CENTER FRONT TOP (7) and CENTER FRONT BOTTOM (8). The next step is a little tricky, since you'll need to do a few things at once. Ultimately, you'll want to sew the SIDE FRONT (9) to the CENTER FRONT TOP and BOTTOM (7 & 8). I recommend clipping the corner of (7), like you see above, and folding the fabric under. Temporarily secure it with wonder clips. The reason you don't want to attach it to your SIDE FRONT (9) yet, is that you'll need to add two snaps and side belts to the CENTER FRONT BOTTOM (8). Sew the belts into place first, keeping the fabric folded over. Add in your snaps, and then you can attach everything to your SIDE FRONT (9) using a tucked seam. The backside of the jacket is much easier to assemble. Sew your two CENTER BACK (5) pieces together before attaching them to the BACK YOKE (4). The SIDE BACK (6) panels go on much easier than their counterparts in the front, since there are no more belts in the back. Sew the back of your jacket to front at either shoulder, and at each of the side seams. Be sure to sew the front side belts securely into the side seams, like above.  

    B. The Sleeves

    The sleeves have a whole lot of detail - armor at the shoulders, quilted armor on the forearm, and of course the ribbing at the elbows. Before putting everything together, make sure these individual pieces have all of their stitching complete. For the forearm patch, I spaced my stitches 3/4" apart. Once the stitching is complete, insert the it onto the SLEEVE BOTTOM (3). Sew two SHOULDER ARMOR (12) pieces, right sides together, leaving the top open to turn right-side out. Top-stitch around the perimeter and stay-stitch it into place on the SLEEVE TOP (1). Sew your SLEEVE TOP (1), ELBOW BAND (2), and SLEEVE BOTTOM (3) together respectively. Once all the details are done, the sleeves can be attached to the torso. Be sure to clip your seam allowances before completing your seams.  

    C. Collar & Waistband

    Insert one of your waistband pieces to the bottom of your jacket and one of your collar pieces along the neckline. Clip both seam allowances. Sew the second collar piece to the first, only along the top seam. Do the same with the second waistband piece, but along the very bottom seam. Pin your zipper along the center front seam, aligning it with the bottom of the waistband first. It should just reach the bottom of your collar, but if it's a little too long be sure to shorten it from the top. Sew your zipper into place, flip it inward along the waistband and collar linings, and top-stitch. I personally stay-stitched the rest of the waistband and collar linings before top-stitching, but the could also be just be pinned.  

    D. The Details

    At this point you should have your jacket almost completely constructed. Add your two arm belts to the bottom of the shoulder armor. Here is where you can also attach the second should armor pieces. I personally chose to leave mine off so the jacket can be (a little) more suitable for everyday wear, but I did include the pieces in the template! Last, you'll need to add the FRONT ZIPPER FLAP (11). The darker red should go on the inside so it's seen when it's flipped open. This is also the side where the flat part of the snaps should go. You can see in the image below that I accidentally placed them facing the opposite way (oops!). Stay-stitch the flap in place, flip it over the zipper, and top-stitch. Your jacket should now be complete to protect you as you guard our galaxy! There are a couple details that could be added to make it a little more screen accurate. For example, I know there are sleeve belts along the wrists, as well as a zipper under the arm. I'm sure I'll notice more things to add when I see the movie, but for that we'll need to wait until next week!
  • Mood Style: Easy-to-Sew Laminated Lace Raincoat

    It seems like 90% of my new projects stem from not being able to find exactly what I'm looking for in the store. It's so difficult to find a raincoat that isn't either dark and dismal, or banana yellow.
  • Luckily, Mood had the perfect thing. This gorgeous laminated lace is completely waterproof, surprisingly easy to work with, and largely transparent (which meant, I could make my jacket whatever color I wanted). Hello, adorable mint green raincoat!
  • Fabrics & materials used: The only downside to the jacket pattern I used was that it didn't include a hood. Since I obviously wanted to be able to use this in the rain, I drafted my own easy pattern, which you can download below!


    In lieu of a normal lining, where I would essentially make two coats and sew them together, I chose to sew  my lining along with the laminated lace, finishing off the seams with some double fold bias tape, like you see below. In addition to binding all of the seams, I ironed out a few inches of bias tape to cover 4 buttons. Two were attached to the back to the belt, and the other two were added as closures to the front of the coat. Overall, the laminated lace was much easier to work with than expected. Rather than puncture the thin vinyl sheeting with a bunch of pins, I used Wonder Clips to get the job done. One rainy afternoon later and I had my new raincoat, complete with the perfect mint lining. What color lining are you going to pair with yours?
  • Mood DIY: Free One-Piece Swimsuit Sewing Template

    With March finally behind us, I am officially thinking about nothing but the beach. I've always been a bit terrified to try my hand at swimwear, but I knew I'd have to make something with this amazing zebra tricot. A surprisingly easy-to-make body suit ensued!
    Fabrics & materials used:
    I began by draping the fabric right on the dress form. I love the more retro shape to the bottom and the deep V neckline. Two thick pleats at the shoulders also gave the suit faux lapels in lieu of bust darts. Since I don't typically work with swimwear, I can only include a template of the pattern I created. My model has a 28" waist, so it's roughly a US size 10. You can download a PDF below!


      I began by sewing the two front panels together, starting at the bottom and ending about halfway toward the top. Each shoulder was pleated before being attached to the back of the swimsuit. Once it was attached at the bottom as well, I had the outside of the suit mostly constructed, with the exception of the sides. Before closing the sides up, I needed to attach the lining. I began by sewing it to the arm and leg holes, like you can see below. Leaving the neckline still open, I sewed the lining into the sides of the suit by closing each side with French seams. Lastly, I slip-stitched around the entire neckline by hand to be sure the lining fit inside the zebra tricot perfectly. I love that bodysuits are so on trend right now. This can be worn at the beach or to a casual night out with some tights and denim shorts. It's giving off some serious 80's summer vibes!
  • Mood DIY: Free Flared Button Up Shirt Pattern

    Even if there's 2 feet of snow outside, I have my sights set on spring. I'm ready for floral prints and lighter fabrics, so today I got a jump start on a wardrobe for the new season. Mood's new silk charmeuses were perfect for this longline, flared button-up! The large-scale print suits the length of the blouse and the weight lends itself to a gorgeous drape. Fabrics & materials used: To keep the shirt light and draped, I opted against a lining. Because of this, French seams were a must in order to keep the silk from fraying. I began the shirt construction by attaching the front and back panels of the shirt at the sides and shoulders. Next, both front panels needed plackets for the buttons. Each one was interfaced and stitched onto the wrong side of the shirt itself, like you can see above. To avoid visible stitches on the front of the placket, I folded mine over and slip-stitched it into place. I added a single box pleat at the center back before attaching the collar the same way I attached the plackets.In this case, the collar was sewn to the right side of the shirt and slip-stitched on the wrong side. Since the shirt remained unlined, I finished the armholes with 1/4" binding that I made from the same silk as the rest of the blouse. I didn't want any buttons to be visible, so I hand sewed 8 snaps along the inside of the placket. This also omitted the need for buttonholes, which was an added bonus! This pattern is one of my favorites, since it can be altered so many ways - shortened, lengthened, made with a different fabric type entire, sleeves could be easily added. It's versatility is terrific. Are you going to be making any changes when you try it out?
  • Mood DIY: Free Cutout Dress Sewing Pattern

    Sporting bright green on St. Patrick's Day is certainly a fun tradition, but I've always been a fan of a more subtle look for the holiday. This easy to sew pattern features everything you'd want in a cute day-to-night look; flattering cutouts, a nice silhouette, and huge pockets! Plus, you can effortlessly dress it up with heels, or go for a more comfy and casual look with some flats. Fabrics & materials used:
    Dress Pattern Layout


    Pattern pieces 1, 2, 4, and 5 make up your bodice. If you're working with a more translucent fabric, you may want to use a lining, but the jacquard I used was the perfect weight to skip one. Instead, I put the garment together with French seams.

    The skirt gets pleated twice in the front and twice in the back, lining up with the seams of the bodice. Each pleat should be about 2" deep.

    I made the pockets of mine rather large, so they overlap a bit in the front. If you're working with a bulkier fabric, you may want to make them slightly smaller.

    The back was finished with a 24" invisible zipper that I shortened to about 20". If you're unfamiliar with how to insert one, we have a tutorial here! Lastly, I finished off the sleeves, neckline and hem with simple rolled hems. This could be substituted with a full lining, facings, or bias tape! Which are you going to use?
  • Mood DIY: Free Two-Piece Prom Dress Pattern



    Your prom should be anything but ordinary. It's one of the most anticipated events of one's high school career, so why settle for just another dress off the rack? Making your own means it will be exactly what you want, with the added bonus of being one of a kind!

    Fabric & materials used:

    To find some inspiration, I looked at recent bridal and couture lines to see what shapes and colors were trending. Separates kept appearing, and understandably so; the crop top/midi skirt combo looks flattering on many body types and it's a great way to modernize an otherwise modest silhouette. Another common factor was deep wine tones, and I couldn't be more in love. Dark reds are my absolute favorite shades and they look good with so many different skin tones, which is an awesome plus.

    Shape & Color

    The bodice I went with was actually made from the pattern in my last DIY post! You can find out how to make it there, and you can download the PDF pattern here!


    I made just two alterations: the bottom was tapered slightly, and I made a mock neck instead of a ruffle collar. If you've never made one, trace a french curve for about 7-8 inches, move it to the right 2 inches and trace it again so you have 2 parallel curves. Place the more curved end on the fold, like so:


    To bring a little dimension into the gown, I opted to use this gorgeous guipure lace. It's the perfect overlay for skirts and bodices alike, and the floral makes the dress a little more Spring.


    The skirt was the easiest part of the whole project. It's just a basic half circle skirt, so anyone can make it! It's even hemmed with some Stitch Witchery to avoid ugly hem stitching.


    If you're not familiar with half circle skirts, I can walk you through it quite easily!

    1. You'll need to find your radius length. Measure your waist and divide it by 3.14. So if you have a 30" waist, your radius will be 9.5".

    2. Choose how long you'll want your skirt and add 2" for the hem. Keep in mind you'll probably be wearing heels! I made mine 45", hem included.


    3. Now you can start laying out your fabric. Fold it in half, lengthwise, and mark out your radius from one of the folded corners.

    4. From your radius, measure out the length of your skirt along the fold and selvedge, as well as a few points in between so you can connect the dots to form curves.

    5. Cut out your fabric, and sew up the selvedge to create the perfect skirt! You can also add a waistband if you so choose, and an invisible zipper.


    Since I chose to use a poly satin (which looks, feels, and drapes beautifully!), it kept the cost down considerably; and for just an afternoon of work, sewing a prom dress is a great alternative to buying one at the store. The possibilities are totally endless though! You can choose your own color, overlay, skirt length, and more! You could even go with a silk to make the look even more luxe! Are you going to try your own?

  • Mood DIY: Free Beaded Crop Top Sewing Pattern


    You might hear 'crop top' and think of slouchy tees or cutoff tanks, but it's not difficult to put a sophisticated spin on them. The crop trend has made its way to the forefront these last couple years, and for good reason. They can be easily dressed up or down, with a midi skirt or high-waisted pants, and they leave the door open for some great accessorizing. For today's DIY and free pattern, we'll be adding some beads into the mix.

    Fabric & materials used:

    Beaded Crop Top Pattern Layout


    I lined the shirt in the same fabric as the outside, although this was just personal preference; I knew I was looking for a crisp, sleek look.


    Since the entire shirt is only made up of a few panels, it goes together fairly easily and is very simple to alter if need be. For example, the front is comprised of a middle panel and two sides. I added two bust darts to reduce a little fabric at the armholes. Other alterations could include tapering the bottom a bit to be more form fitting.


    The back panels go together similarly, and attach to the front at the shoulders and sides. The collar gets folded downward, in half, and attached to the neckline with 1" knife pleats. I made each side go in opposite directions so they meet in the middle with a box pleat.

    This is also the point where you can attach your lining. Once the collar is pinned or stay-stitched in place, place the lining over it so it's sandwiched between the lining and the outer fabric. The armholes and base can also be stitched closed.


    For the trim, I kept it simple and only added it to the neckline and hem, however this is where you can truly get creative! Create swirling designs or even add some trim along the seams. Be sure to tie off the ends of the trim though, to avoid losing beads and sequins!

    DSC_0969What alterations would you make to this pattern? Would yours be more tapered or have different trim? Tell me your ideas below! DSC_0986



  • Mood DIY: Free Lace Wrap Bralette Pattern


    Who doesn't love a cute bra? Make your intimates ten times cuter and comfier by making them yourself; you control the fit and the fabrics! This adorable wrap around bralette was something a draped right on my dress form, but since it was so simple, I drew up a basic template for it, which you can download below. For some stretchier fabrics or flatter chests, you may be able to forgo the dart, but I found that it makes the fit much nicer.


    Fabrics & materials used:

    Lace Wrap Bralette Layout


    • Small - Chest: 32-35, Waist: 25-28
    • Medium - Chest: 36-39, Waist: 28-31
    • Large - Chest: 40-43, Waist: 32-35
    • X-Large - Chest: 44-47, Waist: 36-39


    1. Begin by adhering the lace to the power mesh with a temporary basting spray. This ensures that your pattern pieces are all cut exactly the same, reducing the risk of bubbles and wrinkles while you sew your bralette together. The Spray N Bond I used went on white, but dried clear and eventually faded away completely. (Side note: I suggest cutting out the general size/shape of the lace and basting that onto the mesh. This way you can line up the scalloped edges when you cut out your pattern for real.)


    2. Cut your pattern! I recommend a rotary cutter, but it's certainly not necessary. Also, be sure to place the bottom edges of your pattern pieces against the scalloped edge of the lace during this step.


    3. Sew a dart into the front of each panel, following the dotted lines on the pattern.


    4. Attach the front and back panels using French seams. If you're unfamiliar with how to make these type of seams, first stitch the pieces with wrong sides together before flipping to sew the right sides together. This encases the seam allowance in a clean, bound seam like you can see below.


    5.  Using a wide zig-zag stitch, sew elastic along the top of your bralette, against the right side of your fabric.


    6. Flip and top-stitch, using a zig-zag stitch again.


    7. Use a flat-felled seam to attach the straps to the front of the bra.


    9. The back of the strap can be tucked behind the bralette. Luckily the strap is adjustable, which makes fitting it a little easier.


    10. Zig-zag stitch along the scalloped edge of the lace and carefully cut off the excess mesh along the bottom.


    11. The last step is to finish the ends with hook and eye tape. For this I sewed them onto the right side, folded it and then top-stitched, much like I did for the elastic in steps 5 & 6.


    The finished product is cute and casual, not to mention beyond comfy! Have you picked out some fabrics to make your own? Tell me which ones you're using in the comments below!

    DSC_0722 DSC_0729 DSC_0730

  • Mood DIY: Free Plunge Cocktail Dress Sewing Pattern

    Red carpet season is fast-approaching, and with a few being rolled out already I've already been feeling inspired to step up my dress game! This year's golden globes saw stunning sequins and bold silhouettes, but I absolutely fell in love with Jessica Biel's Elie Saab gown at the 2017 Golden Globe Awards.

    Jessica Biel

    The daring plunge paired with the full skirt looked absolutely gorgeous, and as soon as I saw it, a cocktail version started forming in my head.


    To make it a little more casual, I cut my design a little above the knee, added pockets as well as a cute brooch to close the front a little bit, and a few inches of lace under the arm.

    Fabrics & materials used:

    Biel Dress Bodice Layout


    The bodice goes together in about two and a half steps. Begin by pinning two panels with their right sides together. Sew along three sides, leaving the bottom open like you see below.

     Bodice Sewing

    Clip your corners, turn the panel right-side out and press - you've just sewn one half of your bodice! You'll need two of these panels, sewn into a 2.5" skirt waistband. The flat edge attaches outward toward your arms while the curved side folds to form the lapels.


    The skirt itself is two full circle skirts cut along one radius and sewn together to make a single layer. If you're familiar with how to make a circle skirt, I followed the same steps, but cut the waist measurement in half since I'd essentially be combining two skirts (so I made my calculations as if I was making this for a 15" waist instead of a 30").

    If you'd like to avoid the math altogether, I made a free template that you can download for the skirt!

    Biel Dress Skirt Layout


    The bottom of the skirt is lined entirely with 4" stiff horsehair to keep the hem full and bouncy!


    The pockets are simple ones that hide in the seam. If you've never added them to a garment, you can find and easy tutorial here!


    I inserted my invisible zipper behind one of the pockets, added the waistband to the skirt and added three sew on snaps over the zipper.


    Next is where things can potentially get a little tricky - finishing up the bodice straps! Technically, none of the sewing is too difficult, but you'll definitely need to fit your model or dress form at this point to make sure the straps will lay perfectly.

    Take your straps, fold the lapels to your desired width, and then have them meet in the center back, like the photo above. Here I sewed on two large hook and eyes .

    Fold the remainder of the straps back toward the front of your dress, and then should fit perfectly into the waistband behind the base of your bodice. Stitch into place.


    The last to parts are optional, but incredibly cute additions! To minimize risk, I sewed in some lace side panels - and little hand-stitching worked perfectly. I also added two appliques over the pockets to emulate all the flowers on Jessica Biel's original dress.

    unnamed (1)

    The result is an incredibly adorable new cocktail dress that'll be absolutely perfect for summer parties! Are you going to be giving this project a try? I'd love to see which fabrics you use!


  • Mood DIY: Free Mock Neck Shirt Sewing Pattern

    Mood DIY: Free Mock Neck Shirt Sewing Pattern

    I'm always on the hunt for quick and easy patterns, but when I can't find exactly what I want, sometimes I just need to make my own. Today's project required a little designing of my own. My wardrobe is seriously lacking when it comes to long sleeve tops, which can make layering a bit difficult at times. I knew I wanted to use a stripe, so the goal was to keep the amount of pattern pieces down, minimizing the amount of matching I'd need to do. I came up with this cute ponte mock neck shirt that went together in under an hour!

    Mood DIY: Free Mock Neck Shirt Sewing Pattern


    Fabrics & materials used:

    If, like me, you don't have a serger, a walking foot and zig-zag stitch work perfectly well! First step, attach your front panel to your front sides.

    Mood DIY: Free Mock Neck Shirt Sewing Pattern

    Above, you can see the wrong side of the knit I used. It looked so nice that I decided to use it for the center front of my shirt (but of course, this is just personal preference!).

    Mood DIY: Free Mock Neck Shirt Sewing Pattern

    After the two sides were sewn on, I attached the faux leather trim along each seam with a wide top-stitch.

    Mood DIY: Free Mock Neck Shirt Sewing Pattern

    Matching up the stripes here wasn't too difficult!

    Mood DIY: Free Mock Neck Shirt Sewing Pattern

    Next, it was time to attach the front and back of the shirt at the shoulders, however before sewing up the side seams I added the sleeves. This is where matching stripes got a little trickier.

    Mood DIY: Free Mock Neck Shirt Sewing PatternAfter sewing the sleeve and side seams, I got to work on the collar. Right sides together, I stitched along the top, then turned it right-side out and began pinning it to the neckline of the shirt (beginning with the middle front).

    Mood DIY: Free Mock Neck Shirt Sewing Pattern

    Once the collar was pinned on, I cut about 4" down the center back of my shirt. Each side was folded under, lined up with the end of the shirt collar and top-stitched. Two shank-back buttons and a couple scraps of elastic made awesome closures!

    Mood DIY: Free Mock Neck Shirt Sewing Pattern

    Lastly, I just needed to hem the bottom of my shirt and sleeves! So what about you? Are you planning to try this new pattern out? Be sure to tag Mood in your finished projects and tag them with #madewithmood!

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