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Home Decor

  • Mood DIY: Wine Cozy


    A gift that's always well-received during the holidays is a nice, expensive wine, but it's always important to add a personal touch to any gift, especially if it's store-bought! Why not try sending your gift off to its new home in a personalized wine cozy? Wine cozies make it easy to dress up your wine gift for the holidays, and the gift will be both functional and practical! And what I love most about them is that they're reusable! No fussing with wrapping paper or throw-away wastes.


    These are so quick to put together, too. You could put it together in about half and hour if you're taking your time, and in about 10 minutes if you're familiar with sewing! Here's what we used for the project,

    Materials List

    1/3 YDs of Khaki Stretch Cotton Sateen 1/3 YDs of Yellow/Orange/Gray Checked Peached Cotton Shirting 1 YD of 1/4" Rust Solid Grosgrain Ribbon 471 Dark Orange 100m Gutermann Sew All Thread 8" Fiskars All-Purpose Scissors Dritz Size 3/9 Sharp Needles Dritz Tailor’s Chalk Dritz 250 Long White Ball Pins The design is reversible, too, so you can use two different or complimentary fabrics to make them, and with a removable ribbon at the top for a small tie closure, this cozy is simple and easy to use! . The dimensions of the fabric cuts you need are 14 inches high and 10 inches wide (14" x 10"). With the 1/3 YD cut of fabric, you should have no trouble fitting this dimension onto the cut if you line the height of you piece parallel with the selvage. You need two cuts of this size rectangle total, one in the khaki fabric and one in the plaid fabric. Make sure your plaid's design is running the way you'd like it to!


    After you have your two cuts, take one cut and get your pins. Fold the one cut in half long-ways, and pin the long sides with the right sides together like in the photo. You can also take the time to pin just one of the shorter sides together, so that you have a path of pins shaped like an "L."

    Do this for the other cut of fabric you have as well.


    Once you've pinned the sides, sew a plain stitch down the long side you've pinned, pivot at the corner, and then sew that bottom line along the short side. Trim the extra seam allowance, and then repeat this step for your other pinned piece. You should now have two fabric bags!


    Next, we have to "round" off the bottom's corners. This will help the round bottom of any bottles you put into the wine cozy after you complete it sit more stable. In order to do this, slip your hand inside and fold your bag so that the bottom of the bag can be folded like in the photo above. The bottom seam should run straight through the center when you fold it; this is important to do, because it will keep your bag centered!

    Once you've folded it down properly, pin the corners so they don't slide around, and sew another plain stitch about an inch and a half (1.5") away from the point. Make sure to only sew through the corner, and don't sew it onto the bag! Do this for both sides, then repeat the step for your other fabric bag.


    You should have two bags with finished, rounded off bottoms! Now you can turn one right-side-out, whichever one you want to be on the outside of the bag when it's completed. In this photo, we made the plaid bag for the exterior design, so we turned that one right-side-out. You can see the difference between the two bags in the photos.


    We're almost done! This is where you need to assemble the two bags together. To do this, first fold the raw edges and set a few pins into the fold to keep them still. For the plaid /outside bag, fold the fabric IN; for the khaki/inside bag, fold the fabric OUT.

    Next, you'll need to slip the bag you want on the inside into the bag you want on the outside, (don't worry, it will still be reversible at the end). Be careful of the pins as you slip the bag in! Line the folded edges up, starting at the seams so they're together, and then work your way around, making sure the folded edges are lined up neatly.


    Sew your pinned edges together now with a 5/8" seam allowance. Work slowly--this top-stitch looks really sharp if it's nice and straight! You could also use a decorative stitch at the top here if you want to add a little extra design. For this time, we just went with a plain stitch.


    This is what both of ours looked like after top-stitching. We're almost done!


    The last step is to sew a small loop for your ribbon. Take a hand needle and some of your thread and sew a loose loop into the seam on the back of your wine cozy about 1 inch (1") from the top. You don't want the ribbon loop to sit too low, because it needs to tie around the neck of the wine bottle that will sit inside it.

    Be careful not to make the loop too tight, otherwise the ribbon won't be able to slip in or out easily. We designed this so that the ribbon could be removed easily in case you need to wash your wine cozy. That way, the ribbon won't get ruined in the wash!




    And there you have it! A beautiful, seasonal wine cozy! With the amount of fabric suggested for this DIY, you could easily make two wine cozies like we did for double the gift-giving possibilities! A perfect design for the autumn season and Thanksgiving holiday.

    So what do you all think? Can you see this being a great gift for any of your friends or family members? Maybe even one for yourself? What kind of designs would you like to do?

  • Mood DIY: How to Reupholster a Chair Cushion


    Everyone has a chair that could stand to have some new life breathed into it. Whether it's been in your family forever, or you just picked it up at a thrift store last week, chances are it probably needs to be reupholstered. Luckily, it's not difficult! This post will outline how to recover a cushion on a chair or stool. Most of these detach very easily, with just a few staples, nails, or screws. Fabrics and tools required:

    diy chair reupholster

    I started with this lovely wooden chair; it was a little beat up, but it was nothing a little sanding and stain couldn't fix. The cushion however, was another story - stiff, cracked, and hardly comfortable.

    diy chair reupholster

    A couple nails in the back of the seat came out pretty easily and I was able to shimmy the cushion out of the slot it rested in. Since I wasn't trying to save the original vinyl, I wasn't too careful with keeping it intact as I tore it off. Small upholstery nails tacked it into the sides of the base wood, so I removed them as well.

    If you're looking to recover a cushion exactly the way it was, without adding any extra batting or foam, you could carefully remove the original fabric and use it as a pattern. Instead, I traced the base of my seat and added 3" around the sides to make sure that I'd have enough to wrap over the new batting.

    For the batting, I cut one layer exactly the same size as the wood, as well as 3 more layers progressively 1" smaller. You could easily add or remove layers depending on how cushy you'd like your new chair!

    diy chair reupholster

    After placing the batting on top of the wooden base, I stretched my upholstery fabric over the entire thing. I started with one staple in each of the four sides, and then worked my way around so the fabric would be evenly taut.

    diy chair reupholster

    If your base is more than a 1/2" thick, you could wrap your fabric around and staple it directly to the bottom, but since mine was so thin I had to tack it on the sides.

    diy chair reupholster

    To secure the extra fabric on the bottom, I added a bit of tacky glue and left some binder clips around the entire thing for an hour. You could also glue or staple a layer of non-fraying fabric to the bottom, hiding your raw edges.


    All-in-all, it was a quick and fun project; and the result is adorable!

    Have you ever recovered a seat cushion? Are you going to try doing it now? Tell me what fabric you're using!

  • Mood DIY: Easy Home Decor Designs


    It can be a challenge finding ways to switch up your interior and home decor designs. Sometimes, thinking is the key to create something bigger. There are plenty of subtle alterations you can do or add around your home to help turn its entire look around, and they don't have to take much time or effort to make them. Here are some easy and practical home décor DIYs you can make in minutes that will help give your home an entirely new perspective!  

    No-Sew Knot Pillow

    Decorative pillows can be very expensive to buy or have them custom made, but you can spin a fresh look for your pillows on your own, and it only takes minutes! Here's a sewing-free method to upgrade your old decorative pillows and home décor!


    Materials List

    1 1/3 YDs of Silver/Black Stripes Woven 1 QTY 16" x 16" Mountain Mist Pillow Form 8" Fiskars All-Purpose Scissors Size 3-2" Dritz Safety Pins  


    Lay your fabric out and place your pillow form right in the center of it. Take one side and fold it over so it reaches the opposite side of the pillow form. Safety-pin the fabric down in the center and near each corner of the same side.


    For the other side, you need to fold the raw edge of the fabric in.


    Fold the fabric wrong sides together about halfway towards the pillow form, and then bring the folded edge to the center of the pillow to wrap around it. Safety-pin the fabric so the pin is right in the center of the pillow, and then safety-pin the fabric along the fold towards the edges of the pillow like so:


    From here, you need to gather your fabric edges on either side and tie them together once.



    Take one tail end and wrap it OVER the knot in the middle, tucking it snug underneath the main raise of the knot.



    Then tuck the other free tail underneath where it will sit nicely like so:


    If it's giving you trouble with staying put, fasten a couple of safety pins in hidden spots to help secure the tails.


    And then you're all done!


    Fabric Coaster

    Want a little hand-crafted touch to spiff up your home décor? Make some hand-made coasters! Adding a new set of coasters to a room is a small and subtle way to incorporate your design features and colors into social gatherings. They can be used to expand your design past the visual field and into a tangible one. Your guests will be able to use a part of the interior design! Or you could just make a cute set for yourself!


    Materials List

    ¼ YDs of Citra Green/Victorian Gold/Cream Floral Shantung /Dupioni ¼ YDs of Heathered Dark Earth Brown Felted Wool Blend 8" Fiskars All-Purpose Scissors Dritz Size 3/9 Sharp Needles Dritz 250 Long White Ball Pins Dritz Tailor's Chalk (Optional--for tracing your circles to cut out)

    You'll need to cut out your two circles of felt as well as your one circle of fabric. The two felt pieces should be the size your want the final product to be, and your fabric piece needs to have an extra 1.5" in. in diameter than your felt pieces. The fabric pieces needs enough extra length to wrap underneath one of the felt pieces.


    Once you have your three circles, take one felt circle and put it together with your fabric circle. The right side of your fabric should face out. Tuck the edges of your fabric under and around the felt piece and pin it into place.


    After this, take your other fabric circle and put it together on the underside of the first piece so that the raw edges of the fabric you tucked underneath before are hidden. Pin the felt pieces together. Using your sewing machine, sew a 5/8" in. seam allowance around the edge. This should sew in the raw fabric edges if you cut your fabric piece out big enough.


    Double-check to make sure your stitches are secure and neat, trim any loose threads, and then you're done!





    Fabric Frame

    Need a DIY to do with those old picture frames you have or looking to make a gift for a loved one that's both thoughtful and practical? Make a decorative accessory hanger!


    Materials List

    1/2—1/3 YDs of Off-White/Lime Floral Canvas 2/3 YDs of Gray Solid Grosgrain Ribbon 8" Fiskars All-Purpose Scissors Clover Wonder Clips Aleene's Fast Grab Tacky Glue 1 QTY 8”x10” inch Frame Dritz Tailor's Chalk (Optional) You may need more or less fabric depending on if you're using one that has a larger pattern, so please keep this in mind when deciding on your design!


    First, lay your fabric out and determine what part of it you want to be framed. Take the backing of your frame out and lay it on the wrong side of the fabric and mark where you need to cut, leaving about an inch and a half broder all around. Use tailor's chalk if you'd like to help draw a guide for yourself to cut along.


    Cut along your marks or lines so you have a nice rectangular cut.


    Once you have your fabric cut, take your tacky glue and dab each corner of the frame's backing on the back of it (so the side where the stand is attached).


    Fold the corner of the fabric here over the glue and clip it down with a Wonder Clip. Do this for all four corners.


    After your corners are glued and secured, move on to the sides. Working on side at a time, dab your tacky glue along the edge of the frame backing (dots or one straight line of glue both work!), and then fold the fabric once onto itself and then another time over the edge of the backing onto the glue. This will help keep the raw edges of your fabric tucked away.


    After gluing them down, clip them in place with more Wonder Clips.

    For best results, you should leave your glue to set and dry fully for about an hour. After the hour has passed, take off your clips and check for stability of the glue. If you need to glue more, go ahead and do so.


    Next is to add your ribbon! Cut the piece completely in half and line up on the front of the fabric where you'd like the ribbon to lay on your frame. We put our about 2.5 in. from both the top and bottom of the frame. Lay the two pieces where you want them and hold them in place with Wonder Clips. Turn the frame backing over to the stand side and get your tacky glue. You need to dab glue underneath the folded fabric edge where the ribbon will be tucked and glue into place.


    You can life just a little bit, tuck the ribbon under so the edge is concealed, and glue it down. After you've glued it down, hold the ribbon in place again with the Wonder Clips and let the glue set for at least another hour.


    Do this with the other three points for your ribbon edges.


    When you come back, check your ribbons for stability. After this, you should be able to snap your backing back into your frame (without the glass cover!) and be done!



    Go ahead and hang your favorite accessories on them for a stylish and framed organizer!

    This is what we have to share for now, but we have more coming! Are you looking to try any of these designs out? Can you think of any designs for them that might look good for the upcoming holidays? Share your thoughts with us and let us know!

  • Quick and Easy Button Crafts


    So; let’s talk buttons! Here’s a question for all of you casual button-enthusiasts out there: where do you most often use buttons? On a shirt? Pants? Usually closures, right? Maybe a pillow? Have you ever considered decorating with buttons? There are plenty of big and small projects that can be improved with just a few buttons! Working with buttons is a great and refreshing way to shift your mind and design in a different perspective! Sometimes it might help to think outside the box, but it might be better for others to think inside the box! You can focus on the big or the small details—buttons can go either way, and both methods produce different results!


    Getting interested? Then you might want to consider trying out a Bag o' Buttons to get you started! These bags always provide an amazing assortment of button types, colors, and shapes. I was so impressed when I opened up a bag and saw how many different types poured out! These are available in both small and large sizes, so you can get the amount that suits your needs! So grab yourself a bag, check out some ideas below, and get ready to button up!  

    Button Brooch

    This is a cute idea that just involves stacking a few buttons on top of each other and sewing them together with a bit of complimentary embroidery thread! These come out best when using different sized buttons, and you can play with the color combinations all you want! Attach with a safety pin or brooch pin! DSC_1133

    Holiday Wreath Button Embellishment

    Embellishments on holiday wreaths look beautiful in any season! Since buttons come in all colors and designs, it’s easy to find buttons for every occasion and holiday. Add some buttons for a pop of color or to finish off seasonal motifs!


    Button Pendent

    This is similar to the Button Brooch, but worn in a different spot! Buttons that are ornate and stand out proud on their own can take a center stage over a shirt pocket or dress hem!


    Button Napkin Tie

    Another idea that’s simple, tying some buttons together with a little more embroidery thread can make for an adorable and colorful napkin tie! Use them for dinner parties and other special occasions you need a fresh dinner set for!


    Button Flower Bouquet

    Button flower bouquets are beautiful and elegant pieces that can be wonderful setting pieces for the coming fall season! Use colors and flower designs reminiscent of mums, sunflowers, and harvest-time flora and set them in a decorative cornucopia to liven up a dining room or coffee table!


    Button Bookmark

    Button bookmarks are vintage little clips that are safe on your wallet and your books! Take a paper clip, attach a button to each side on the end, and you’re done! You can use them for your favorite novel, marking important pages in textbooks, or for organizing your planner!


    Button Pushpins

    Bored of your corkboard’s push pins? Don’t want to spend money on those pretty ones from the store? Decorate them yourself! Use some hot glue to spruce up any bland pins you have. These will give a cute and quirky touch to your corkboard!


      These are just a handful of button DIY ideas, but it’s something to get you started! Have you done a button project that wasn’t listed here? Or maybe you thought of another project idea from looking at these? Share your comments and photos with us—we’d love to see more ways to use buttons!
  • All About Presser Feet


    All About Presser Feet

    We're back with another guide, and this time we're focusing on presser foot attachments! One of the most important pieces to any sewing machine and project, presser feet come in a variety of types and just as many functions. Knowing how each one works, and what ones are available for your use, can save you a lot of time and struggle as well as improve your experience working through your project! Take a scroll down below to check out the different kinds available, from standard pieces to specialty ones!  

    All About Presser Feet | Universal FootUniversal Foot

    An all-purpose and standard presser foot that is included with every sewing machines upon purchase. This foot is your basic foot, and it can be used for some decorative stitches in addition to both straight and zigzag stitches.               All About Presser Feet | Zipper Foot

    Zipper Foot

    Zipper Feet are a necessary investment for anyone who wants to get into fashion sewing, because it just makes installing zippers so much less of a hassle. Zipper Feet are designed in a way that allows you to get a clean stitch as close to the zipper teeth as possible and as cleanly as possible. Technically speaking, you could install a zipper with a Universal Foot, but it is difficult and there’s the risk of getting a messy or uneven stitch along the zipper, or the stitch is too far away from the edge of the teeth and the zipper will be too visible. The difference is noticeable, trust me. Plus, using a Zipper Foot helps ensure that the zipper will work properly after installation.  

    All About Presser Feet | Button Hole FootButton Hole Foot

    There are a few different types of Button Hole Feet, but their main purpose is to ensure uniform installation of buttons on your garment quickly and easily. This type of foot is useful if you enjoy making button up shirts, skirts, dresses, or anything that closes with buttons. With the Mood Brand Lia Sewing Machine, a Button Hole Foot is included with the initial purchase, and it is designed to automatically install the size button hole you need to fit your buttons onto your garment. It's really convenient!


    All About Presser Feet | Blind Hem Foot

    Blind Hem Foot

    A Blind Hem Foot creates a nearly invisible hem on your garment. A blind hem is useful when sewing projects such as curtains, dress or skirts, shirts--anything where you'd like the hem to be as hidden as possible. It is important to note, however, that in addition to a Blind Hem Foot, a machine also needs to be capable of using a blind hem stitch setting for your sewing machine to stitch the blind hem. If your machine already comes with one or is compatible with the Blind Hem Foot for your service provider, this shouldn't be an issue.        

    All About Presser Feet | Overlock Foot

    Overlock Foot

    Over-locking Feet are great for when you’re finishing hems or seams made from knits and woven fabrics. If you don’t have a serger available for your project or using one won’t work for what you’re making, an Over-locking Foot might just be the ticket you need. It’s a great alternative, and it helps clean up and lock in your seam edges on slippery and loose knit and woven fabrics.


    All About Presser Feet | Invisible Zipper Foot

    Invisible Zipper Foot

    This type of foot is considered a specialty presser  foot, though if you install invisible zippers often, you might consider it as basic as your Universal and regular Zipper Feet! Invisible Zipper Feet are used to install invisible zippers quick and easy. The presser foot actually sits right on top of the zipper as it guides through, and so the needle is able to sew as close to the zipper teeth as safely possible (which is what you want!). It’s incredibly handy, as most invisible zippers cannot be properly installed without this type of foot. Invisible zippers are great on garments like dresses, skirts, suit pants, or other pieces where you’d like the zipper to be hidden from sight.


    All About Presser Feet | Edgestitch FootEdge-stitching Foot

    The Edge-stitching Foot is kind of like the Blindstitch Foot in that it’s used on the edge of a hem, but this presser foot’s purpose is to produce clean, perfect top-stitching for your project. I personally love top-stitching and the decorative appeal it has, so I’m a huge advocate of this specialty foot! Top-stitching is really nice on coats and dresses, but you can also use top-stitching on things like shirts, pockets, or accessories (like scarves or leg warmers!).


    All About Presser Feet | Ope-Toe Embroidery FootOpen-Toe Embroidery Foot

    The Open-Toe Embroidery Foot is a specialty foot for the practiced embroiderer. Its design is labeled as “open” because it’s easy to see where your stitching path is going underneath the presser foot. Because of this design, this type of presser foot is used for more free-form embroidery. If you have steady hands and trust your own guidance to do the job, give this presser foot a try! An Open-Toe Embroidery Foot is great for securing edges, applying more complex top-stitching designs, and sewing curves.


    All About Presser Feet | Pintuck FootPintuck Foot

    The Pintuck Foot is one variety of sewing feet which uses the double needle attachment on a sewing machine, and the grooved plate it uses comes in four plate styles—3, 5, 7, and 9-grooved. These different plates produce a range of pintucked designs and provide a nice variety to choose from and use on your project. Pintucks are commonly used on shirts and skirts, but they also look nice on things like baby garments.


    All About Presser Feet | Jeans FootJeans Foot

    The Jeans Foot is great if you enjoy sewing jeans or working with other heavier types of fabrics similar to denims. Using it helps you sew clean, straight seams when working with those heavier fabrics!


    All About Presser Feet | Straight Stitch FootStraight Stitch Foot

    Straight Stitch Feet are wonderful specialty equipment for using with fine cottons and shirtings if you’re struggling with the fabric getting caught in your machine’s throat plate while using shorter stitch settings. When combined with a straight stitch plate, it keeps your fabric safe from getting caught up and allows you to move through your project without a hitch.  


    All About Presser Feet | Nonstick FootNonstick Foot

    This is another specialty foot that’s handy when sewing with sticky-type fabrics like leather, faux leather, and vinyl! These types of fabrics can cause friction on metal sewing machine feet, making it difficult to guide your fabrics through smoothly. This can set you back in your project, and if you've ever worked with faux leather or vinyl before, you know that once the needle goes though, the puncture shows up forever! So going with a Nonstick Foot can be really helpful! They're are often made of Teflon which prevents the friction between the fabric and the foot. Useful, right? It would be really good to look into purchasing one if you plan to work with these kinds of fabrics in the future!  


    All About Presser Feet | Patchwork FootPatchwork Foot

    A great tool for when you’re quilting or need to work around exact seams, this specialty presser foot helps you maintain consistent ¼” designs and top-stitching. It’s often advertised to quilters and sewers who enjoy patchwork projects (hence the name), but it's also useful for smaller crafts like doll clothing or smaller, decorative stitches on shirts.


    All About Presser Feet | Rolled Hemmer FootRolled Hemmer Foot

    A Rolled Hemmer Foot is a presser foot where using it allows you to easily and quickly sew up rolled hems for your garments. The rolled hem guides underneath the foot itself and keeps it steady as it slides through so the sewing needle can sew a neat and clean stitch for the hem.


    All About Presser Feet | Fell FootFell Foot

    This specialty presser foot makes sewing a felled seam a breeze! If you’re not sure what a felled seam looks like, click here to check out our guide on seams: All About Sewing Seams! Some manufacturers produce different types of Fell Presser Feet that allow you to finish your seam at different widths, but not all manufacturers provide this option.


    All About Presser Feet | Walking FootWalking Foot

    Walking Feet are great for when you’re working with fabric, or fabrics, that risk moving around too much during the sewing process. Working with fabrics like knits or layered pieces like during quilting projects can be frustrating, as knits stretch too easily and layers might move around without the proper support under an option like the Universal Foot. With a Walking Foot, its wide, steady plate ensures that your fabric or project behaves as you guide it through, and you’ll spend less time correcting mistakes and your patience because of it!    


    All About Presser Feet | Gathering FootGathering Foot

    And lastly, the Gathering Foot! This nifty little presser foot is great for when you want to gather fabric for a part of your project. The presser foot does all of the hard work for you and produces lovely gathered sections of fabric that you feed through it. It’s also unique in that it allows you to sew a piece of fabric you want to keep flat to a piece of fabric that you want gathered—it does two jobs at once! Fabric that is fed underneath the presser foot piece stays flat while fabric that goes through the piece itself gets gathered.               Did you learn anything new about presser feet from our guide? Perhaps about a presser foot you hadn't known about yet? We hope you did--perhaps you found the presser foot you've been looking for to finish that project! Or start a new one! Sewing machine and presser feet accessories have come a long way. Make sure to try out a few and expand your sewing expertise, and don't forget to share what you learn with us!  

    All About Presser Feet

  • All About Sewing Seams

    types of sewing seams


    All About Sewing Seams

    Need a refresher on the different types of seams at your disposal? Or maybe you’re starting out and doing research to better acquaint yourself with your machine and your project? This guide is here to help! Below is a list of some of the most commonly used types of seams and how you can use them, so you can get back to your project with the confidence and knowledge you need to make it the best you can!  

    types of sewing seams plainPlain Seam

    This type of seam is the most basic in the sewing trade, and it’s the simplest. A Plain Seam is identified as a seam that is stitched between two pieces of fabrics, right sides together. Whether you’re using a straight stitch, zigzag, or something else, so long as the seam consists of two raw edges lined up with the right sides together and are sewn down, you are looking at a Plain Seam. They can be used in almost any project, and they can be finished in a variety of ways by pressing flat and then trimming with pinking shears, overlocking/serging the raw edges, using zigzag stitching, and more. Plain Seams are best used for thinner fabrics and looser garments, like flowing t-shirts and blouses.  

    Double-Stitched Seamtypes of sewing seams Double Stitched Seam

    A Double-Stitched Seam is like a Plain Seam, but a second Plain Seam is sewn between the first and the raw edges of the seam allowance in order to provide a stronger seam for the fabrics being sewn together as well as better keep the fabric from fraying. This type of seam is great for giving a little extra hold to those lighter shirts and other flexible pieces, but it can also be used on garments like pants and jackets being made with lighter-weight fabrics.  

    types of sewing seams Top Stitched SeamTop-Stitched Seam

    Top-Stitched Seams are typically straight stitch seams that are visible from the right side of the fabric. These seams are sewn on top of the right side of the fabric and are used for both practical and decorative purposes, but the main function is to reduce bulk from the seam allowance underneath. Top-stitching might seem intimidating, but lining the presser foot up to the edge that you’re guiding to makes it very easy! You can use top-stitching on any project, from curtains to blankets to pockets on the front of a shirt, and you can take advantage of the thread’s visibility to add in a subtle flash of color with a different colored thread from the rest of the garment!  

    Double Top-Stitched Seamtypes of sewing seams Double Top Stitched

    Like a Top-Stitched Seam, but completed a second time. These types of seams are more secure than a Top-Stitched Seam alone and allow the bulk from the seam allowance to be distributed more evenly, providing an even smoother finish. Double Top-Stitched Seams are often used for blanket edges and pocket borders, or something similar both to help strengthen the project’s “high-traffic areas” and stabilize shape. It can look really sharp, too!  

    types of sewing seams French SeamsFrench Seam

    French Seams are very flattering visually, both on the inside and outside of the garment. This is a seam where the wrong sides of the fabric edges are sewn together and are then tucked between the right sides and sewn down again so that the raw edges are tucked away and smooth (think like a long, thin pocket for the first seam to sit in). This leaves both the right and wrong sides of the seam looking clean and finished. French seams are often used with thin fabrics, but they can also be used when garments or pieces that will not have a lining, such as a bag or shirt. If you’d like to see more details on how to install A French Seam, follow this link here!  

    Mock French Seamtypes of sewing seams Mock French Seam

    A Mock French Seam is exactly what it sounds like—it’s done a little differently than a French Seam, but the end result looks very similar. This type of seam is a Plain Seam that is finished by pressing the seam allowance flat and then folding the raw edges in, ironing them again, and finally sewing the seam allowance edges together with another Plain Seam to give the appearance of a French Seam. Installing a Mock French Seam takes a little more effort and ironing than a regular French Seam, but it saves on thread, which is useful if you're doing a large garment or using lots of seams! It’s also useful if you don’t have enough seam allowance or fabric to wrap around the first Plain Seam a second time like a French Seam calls for.  

    types of sewing seams Flat FelledFlat Felled Seam

    Flat Felled Seams are seams where a Plain Seam is first used to sew a right and wrong side together, and then the edges are tucked into each other in a way that locks them in, and is then sewn down again with another Plain Seam along the other side of the seam’s width. This is another great method for hiding and protecting the raw edges from exposure, and it leaves the seam looking clean and tidy. It is also the strongest type of seam and a method that should be used on heavier fabrics that need more security to hold them together, such as side seams pants or jeans. High-traffic areas and points of stress on garments need a little more strength, so keep Flat Felled Seams in mind!  

    Welt Seamtypes of sewing seams Welt

    This type of seam is similar to a Top-Stitched Seam, but it skips the step of straight-stitching. In this type of seam, the right sides are facing together, the raw edge of one piece of fabric is folded under, and then a Plain Seam is sewn as a Top-Stitch above where the raw edge is tucked under to help lock in the raw edge onto the right side of the other piece of fabric. This type of stitch is stronger than Plain Seams and is another good choice when working with heavier fabrics and garments like bags and pants.  

    types of sewing seams Double WeltDouble Welt Seam

    Similar to a Welt Seam, the Double Welt Seam is a seam where you sew down a Welt Seam and then sew a top-stitch seam onto the folded edge to help reduce the bulk of the seam and keep it from popping back up. This second seam helps to stabilize the first one and it provides an appealing border along the seam’s edge.      

    Slot Seamtypes of sewing seams Slot

    Slot Seams are best used for decorative projects like upholstery or crafting due to the fact that it allows for the addition of accenting fabrics and colors. These seams start with a Plain Seam to baste two pieces of fabric together and is followed by sewing the right side of a contrasting strip of fabric along the right side of the raw edges of the seam allowance from the basting seam on both sides, and then the basting seam is ripped so that the contrasting fabric is visible. This type of seam is as strong as a Double-Stitched Seam and has a primarily decorative purpose, but if styled smart, it can make a nice contour on a jacket or pair of pants.  

    types of sewing seams CordedCorded Seam

    Corded Seams have a similar purpose that Slot Seams do, but instead of flashing off a contrasting fabric, Corded Seams highlight corded trim that you use between two layers of fabric in the seam. It is sewn by layering cording between two layers of a fabric, right sides together, and sewing a Plain Seam underneath the cording so that the cording is visible from the right side of the garment but the stitching and seam are not. This type of seam is great for adding decoration on edges of pillows or different types of bags, or for contouring a garment. Good places for Corded Seams on garments would be places our wat to accentuate, for example, shoulders, necklines, etc.  

    Bias Bound Seamtypes of sewing seams Bias Bound

    And lastly, Bias Bound Seams. Bias Bound Seams take a little bit of patience, but so long as you sew right along their shape, they usually come out looking clean and crisp. The design is fairly simple, too; these types of seams are ones where the raw edges of the seam are covered by bias tape to help protect and keep the edges from being damaged or stressed. A Plain Seam is used to bring the two pieces of fabric together, and then bias tape is used to cover both raw edges together as one or on each of the two raw edges separately. A Plain Seam is used to close the bias tape around the raw edges, and you have the option of pressing the two edges flat and away from each other should you need to cut down on bulk (this is only an option if you use bias tape on the raw edges separately). Regardless of which you choose to do, this type of seam leaves a clean look on the inside of the fabric and does not affect the outside. This method is often used on dresses and other garments that will go without linings.       Was this guide helpful to you? Did you read about any seams in this article that you hadn’t known about previously? These are just a handful of seam options, but they’re some of the more traditional ones around, so consider using them in your sewing repertoire!

     types of sewing seams

  • Mood DIY: How to Make a Giant Bow


    Mood DIY: How to Make a Giant Bow The big holidays and celebrations are coming up soon and fast, and you know what that means! It's time for bows and ribbons! I love decorating for seasons, and learning new ways to work with ribbon has made me even more enthusiastic for the cause. One of my favorite bows to see are those big, gathered, looping bows that they always show in car commercials. They're a great decorative choice since they always look so full and grand. You can make them any size. And what's great is that, even though this type of bow seems complicated, it actually takes little time to put together. Here’s what you’ll need:


    Materials Wide Ribbon | 2.75” French Green Metallic Gold Wired Edge Ribbon—3 yards (Item #311945) Ribbon or Floral Wire | Gold Metallic Wire Cord—1 yard (Item #17778) Scissors For this bow, I used wired ribbon, but you don't need to use wired ribbon. However, the bigger the bow, the wider the width you'll want to work with. Tutorial Starts Here!


    To begin, hold your ribbon with the wrong side facing towards you and curl the edge of the ribbon towards you. Tuck the edge underneath this loop. This loop is going to be the center of the bow.


    From here, fold and twist the ribbon underneath the loop so that the right side of the ribbon faces towards you. Make sure to hide the twist underneath the first loop.


    Next, fold the ribbon below the first loop to start the second layer. From the picture above, the center loop will rest on that fold, so that it looks like this:


    You will have to twist and fold the ribbon again to make the right side stay visible for the other half of this second layer. It should look like this when you have a full layer completed:

    DSC_0509 Using these steps, repeat until you have 3-5 layers of loops. To ensure that your loops are equal in length, you can hook your finger into each of the loops (on a layer) and press your fingers together. If one is longer or shorter than the other, pull the loops gently until they're even. Make sure not to make the loops too big, though.


    I went with three layers for mine.


    Your bow will be a "straight line" of loops once you have as many layers as you'd like

    It's important that you do not use the entire 3 yards of fabric to make loops for your bow! Leave about a yard of your ribbon hanging from your loops. We will be using this as the two tails for the ribbon, but not right now.


    From here, you'll need to take your ribbon or floral wire and feed it through the center loop. Fold it towards the back, but don't twist it closed just yet.


    Flip your bow over, still pinching the middle to keep the pieces and wire together, and turn and fold the tail end  of your bow so that it's perpendicular to your loop layers and the right side of the fabric faces front with the rest of the bow.


    Now you can go ahead and twist the wire closed, but do not trim it yet!


    Instead, trim the tail end of your bow to length you'd like it to be. This will be the first tail for the bow. I trimmed my bow to where the scissors are laying in the photo. You can cut the ribbon so the edge is squared off or at an angle. I went with an angle.

    Now, with that extra piece of ribbon left from trimming the first tail, slide it through the center loop of your bow, making sure the right side of the bow is facing out and showing.


    Pull the ribbon through until the edge is about as long as loops of your bow.

    From here, you need to take your wire again and feed both ends through the center loop and around to the back again. Flip your bow over and twist the wire closed tightly to help secure this new piece of ribbon we just slid through the center loop.




    Once your wire is tight and secure, trim the ends with your scissors and flatten the trimmed wires against the underside of the bow.


    After, turn your bow back over and adjust the length of the newly added second tail piece to make sure the small tail at the top is the same length as the bow's loops. Then, take your scissors again and trim the end of the second tail to match the length of the first one.

    Lastly, adjust your bow's loops into a circular shape if you'd like and fluff the loops' shapes a bit to look fuller and bigger. I decided that this bow looked nicer with the straight ends instead of the circular shape, but you could do either!


    And now it's done!

    What kinds of things would you like to decorate with these types of bows? There are plenty of holidays and occasions besides Christmas to use a bow for, so experiment and go wild! You could even make strips of fabric to use for making a bow like this, too! Like a dress, a coat maybe? What do you think would look best with it? The options are limitless.

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  • 5 Crafty Ideas for Dorm Room Decor

    Dorm decorating is one of the most exciting things about the new school year, but that doesn't mean it needs to break your bank. Each of these DIY projects can be done with just a few bucks and they're sure to make your new space feeling like home.

    1. Felt Plants



    These little faux plants can be made into frames, wreaths, fake terrariums - you name it! And all you need is a little bit of felt cut into a range of teardrop shapes.

    Begin with 5 large ones, overlapped slightly to form a circle, and keep adding layers of 5 until you're happy with the size and shape. Small dots of hot glue keep them together perfectly.


    2. Wall Art


    Everyone loves a little wall art. Break up the monotony of dorm room posters with some unique fringe hangings!


    Wall art like this looks super adorable, and all it takes is 10 minutes. For the larger one above, I hot glued 2 layers of the tiffany blue fringe to the longer dowel. Single layers worked perfectly for the dark teal and wine red. A little painter's tape zigzagged along the bottom made it super easy to trim the edge into a cuter shape!



    The cotton cording was attached to all of the dowels with simple slip knots. I also added an extra knot toward the middle of the smaller hanging to give it a little more detail, like you can see below.


    3. Bed Organizer


    This handy DIY can replace a bedside table by sliding right under your mattress. All of it's helpful pockets can hold onto anything you need - notebooks, tablets, phones - so there's no need to take up space with a nightstand.


    Two rectangles (12"x18" and 15"x18") just need to be trimmed across the top with bias tape. I made my own with metallic faux vinyl, like you see above and below. They're then sewn to the bottom of a 45"x18" rectangle, which is then trimmed on all four sides. The final step is deciding how many pockets you want! Since the two original rectangles make 2, I decided to divide them once to create a total of four. I made my division slightly off-center so I had 2 small pockets and 2 larger.


    4. Raindrop Divider Fringe


    Fringe has always been popular for doorways, or to divide rooms, and even as backdrops. To make your own raindrop fringe, cut some cording or rattail into five 2.5 yard lengths and cut forty 4" raindrops from your silver vinyl. I chose to make half of the raindrops just slightly blue with Jacquard fabric paint. Usually this goes on incredibly opaque, so I dry brushed in on to keep it much more faint. To finish your fringe, use a hole punch at the top of each raindrop and tie 8 onto each length of cord!



    5. Bow Pillows



    Bow pillows are incredibly cute, and also incredibly simple. All you need are some envelope pillowcases and a strip of fabric to belt around the center.

    To create an envelope case, cut out two 14"x22" rectangles for the back of your pillow and one 14"x18" rectangle for the front.


    Fold your 14"x22" panels in half so they each measure 14"x11". Sew one to the right side of your front panel, with the fold toward the center like you see above and below. Sew the second panel to the opposite end, so the folds overlap for a few inches in the middle. Flip your case right-side-out through the folds - this is where you'll insert your pillow form.


    The belt in the center can be created by sewing a 14" strip of fabric together on the ends. I also gave mine a box pleat to make it a little more detailed, but this is (of course) totally optional!


    So which projects will you be trying out this coming semester? Tell us in the comments!

  • Mood DIY: How to Sew Candy Pillows


    To celebrate National Lollipop Day tomorrow, I thought I'd make some throw pillows that are cute enough to eat!

    Items used:

    Candy Pillows

    The first step is to make your pattern. I started with two different sized circles ( 14" and 18"), and then cut them down into quarters. My larger pillow had 5 different prints, so I divided each quarter into 2.5 triangles. Each print would then be featured twice within the circle.

    I took one of these triangles, drew a curve like you see in the third photo above, and cut the curved section off. I then taped that curved piece to the opposite side and I had my pattern to create the perfect pinwheel!


    Since I used each print twice and the pillows would be double sided, I cut out 4 of each fabric.


    I matched up each panel and the center corners and stitched. To avoid puckering, each seam allowance was clipped, like you see below.


    A 3" strip of cotton was sewn between the front and back of the pillows, to give it a little more depth.


    I left the side panel open several inches to stuff the pillows with Poly-Fil. A simple slip-stitch closed it seamlessly afterwards.


    To finish off the center and to give the center of the pillows a little less volume, I covered some buttons with spare fabric and added them where the pinwheel corners all met.


    And lastly, candies need wrappers! Some bunched up tulle and some thread ties at the end created the perfect look. I'm ready to make a few more of these and throw them on my futon! What print will you be making some candy pillows out of?


  • Mood DIY: How to Make a Patriotic Fabric Wreath


    With the holiday weekend coming up, everyone is going to be making their yards more festive! Why not make yours stand out with a cute, handmade touch?

    This adorable patriotic wreath takes less than an hour, and virtually no sewing skills! What could be better?

    Items you'll need:


    Begin by marking your 16" foam ring at each quarter, and wrapping one quarter with the dotted ribbon. I pinned all of my ribbon on, but you can easily make your design permanent with a few dots of hot glue. The benefit to pinning would be that you can move things around before you're sure you're happy with their placement!


    The tighter you wrap it here, the less you'll see the ribbon design, and the less space 2 yards will cover, so I wrapped it almost as far apart as I could make it, without styrofoam showing.


    For the remaining 3/4 of your outer circle, cut the combed cotton into 3" strips and wrap the ring the same way you wrapped it with the dotted ribbon. Cut several inches of burgundy jute trimming and wrap it around the areas where the fabric meets the ribbon, to hide any raw edges. The jute comes pre-pleated, which is super cute!


    The inner ring is incredibly easy; simply wrap all 5 yards of your navy grosgrain around the entire thing! Once both rings are covered, the small circle should fit perfectly inside the larger. Hot glue in a few places toward the back keeps it in place perfectly.


    For the ribbon roses, bunch up a few inches, like you see in the first photo below, and then wrap the ribbon around the bunch once. Twist the ribbon like you see in the 4th photo, and wrap it around the bunch again. Repeat until your rose it large enough.

    Wreath Rose

    The jute flowers, if you'd like them to all be unique, take a bit of trial an error. For some, I left the trimming pleated, wrapped them up, and pinned the bottoms. For a few others, I took out the pleat stitching. The creases remained, but they were much looser and easier to manipulate. For those, I was about to make some petals a bit more voluminous, and even added some buttons to the center.


    The flowers were then added the same way the ribbons were - with pins! This is where straight pins are the best, since you can move the flowers around as much as you want to try out different designs.


    To finish, you can simply tack on a few inches of extra satin ribbon up top, so there's a loop to hang your final project! So what do you think of this DIY? Which holidays will you be making a fabric wreath for?



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