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  • Dorm Room Tutorial Projects

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    Do you need dorm room inspiration to dress up your dorm room? These tutorials are simple and easy to follow, making your dorm room very unique! Save money on dorm room decorations with these at home DIY projects. Mood fabrics is home to an expansive amount of fabrications and colorations making it simple for you to collect the fabric needed for these projects. Make your dorm feel like home with these simplistic yet fun ideas!  Dorm room Tutorials:

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    1) Bulletin Board Decor

    2) Pillow

    3) Curtains

    4) Poof Ottoman

    5) Tapestry

    6) Seat Cover

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    Decorate Bulletin Board

    final 1

    Items needed

    ½ fabric – can be same or different fabric

    Striped FabricPaisley FabricAbstract Fabric, Polkadot Fabric

    L-Square ruler

    Thread

    Pins

    Trim

    Scissors

     Items Needed

    Step 1:

    Fold over each half-yard with the face out and iron the fabric so that any wrinkles are pressed out. Once your fabric is folded it will be 9″ in length, the exact length of the pennant. The top of the pennant will be 7″ wide so measure in 7″ from the selvedge. To create the point, measure 3.5″ in from the bottom and make a mark. Then connect the top two ends to the point and you have a perfect triangle! Once your first pennant is measured, alternate sides measuring over 7″ and they will all be the exact same size.

     step 1

    Step 2

    Step 2:

    Once all of the prep work is done you can begin to make your cuts! They should be fairly simple, just make sure you use a pencil with a dark line so that you can see it well enough. I also recommend using fabric scissors that are very sharp. The cotton fabrics are all woven so you want to prevent fraying!

    Step 3

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    Step 3:

    After all of your fabric is cut, begin to pin your pennants on your trim. You can use all different types of trim, I would recommend measuring your bulletin board to figure out how long you’d like to make yours. Leave 5 1/2” on each side for hanging purposes. Begin to place the pennants neatly; I placed mine 4” apart from each other. Make sure you place them with the right side facing down, you will be sewing the trim overtop of the pennants.

    Step 3

    Step 3-2

    Step 4:

    Begin to sew each pennant onto the trim, sew on the upper edge back tacking, and do this for all pennants. Sew the bottom edge as well so the pennants lay flat on the trim.

    Step 4

    Step 4-2

    Step 5:

    Fold each edge of trim on the ends over about an inch; sew this down to have a neat edge on each side.

     Step 5

    Hang up your newly decorated banner to add color and life to your bulletin board.  You can also use a few on the pennants you cut out to decorate your notes and to keep you reminded of what’s going on throughout the semester.

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    Final 2

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    DIY pillow

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    Items needed

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    1 yd. fabric

    Thread

    Measuring tape

    Scissors

    Pins

    Pillow form  

    chalk

    This pillowcase tutorial is very easy to make, this is a great beginner’s project.  Make a few and they will make for a great dorm room decor idea! Not to mention a very comfy bed or lounging area! ZzZzZ

    Step 1: I started out with a 14" X 14" pillow form.  Add 1" to the width of you measurements for seam allowance.  For the length double it and add 6". This will allow for the overlapping of the sham and seam allowance.  The final measurements I cut on my pillow were 34" X 15".

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    Step 2: Next, on the short sides,chalk in a .5" seam allowance turn your edge over .5” , pin and iron. Then, chalk another .5",  turn it over on the .5" , pin and iron. Then, sew the seam along the edge. Do the same thing to the other short side. For the long sides, only chalk a .5" seam allowance on both long sides.

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    Step 3: Once your short sides are hemmed, lay your fabric on the table right side up. Take your pillow form, place it in the middle of your fabric, and fold your fabric over your pillow.

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    Step 4: Make sure the fabric is lined up on either side and fits snug around the pillow. Then, pin the two flaps of fabric together on either side.

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    Now, slide the pillow out of the fabric and pin both sides of the fabric together along the sides.

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    Step 5: Now, sew a straight line along the .5" seam allowance you previously chalked along the edges you have pinned. After you’ve sewn both sides, turn your pillowcase right side out through the open flap you have in the middle.

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    Insert the pillow into the case through the open flap and you're all done!

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    DIY Curtains

    Items needed

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    Fabric

    Thread

    Measuring tape

    For tutorial purposes I am going to create curtains but on a smaller scale. You can use this tutorial to make ones to fit your windows but be sure to measure your windows and cut your fabric relating to your measurements.

    Step 1: First, Iron your fabric; sew a half-inch seam allowance around all sides, excluding the bottom.

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    Step 2: After you have completed your hem, fold the top of your fabric down about 3”. This is for the rod to be entered through when hanging. Sew where the end of the fabric meets when folded over.

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    Hang out your curtains, if they are to long you can always hem the bottom to your liking. If they fit to size, be sure to hem them atlas 1/2" to complete a finished look.

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    DIY Poof Ottoman

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    Items Needed

    Fabric

    Thread

    Stuffing

    Measuring tape

    Scissors

    Pins

    I suggest making a larger one then I am here, but to save time and materials I am going to make a smaller scale one.

    Step 1: Measure out a square size that you want, this will be the top and bottom of your ottoman. I used a 18" X 18" square. Cut 2 of these pieces out.

    Measure out the rectangle side panels now, you will need four.  You must use the same length as your square, I made mine a bit thinner. My measurements were 18" X 10". cut out four.

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    Note: If you are making your own sizes be sure to incorporate seam allowance, I incorporated a .5" seam allowance in all of my measurements.

    Step 2: Connecting the side panels, with right sides together begin to pin the side panels all together, one after another. Sew these together with a .5" seam allowance.

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    Step 3: Connecting the top, Right sides together begin to pin each side panel to the four edges of the top panel. You may have to move things around to be sure the four corners match up. Sew a .5" seam allowance around the four sides of the top panel.

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    Step 4: Connecting the bottom, do the exact same thing for the bottom as you did for the top, except when sewing you are going to leave a large opening on one of the side panels. After you've sewn a .5" seam allowance around all bottom edges( with the exception of the opening) turn your ottoman right side out.

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    Step 5: You may have to use a pencil to point out all of the corners to insure it is completely right side out. Begin to stuff your ottoman, stuff it as much as you can.

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    Step 6: it is easiest to hand sew the opening closed, after you have done this you are all done!

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    Enjoy !!

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    DIY tapestry

    Items Needed

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    1 Panel fabric

    thread

    Step 1: Get a panel fabric to have a large print tapestry. If you’d like you can keep the edges unfinished, but for a more neat look hem the edges about ½ “ or 1”.

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    DIY Seat Cover

    After

    Items needed:

    1 Yd fabric

    thread

    measuring tape

    scissors

    Pins

    Items neeeded

    Step 1: Measure the hight and width of your chair that you'd like to cover. Add 1" seam allowance to both the length and width. Add about 2 inches to the length of the fabric to make room for the draping over the top of the chair.

    Step 1

    Step 2: Pin & Sew 1/2" hem to both ends of the fabric, so the bottom has a finished look.

    Step 2

    Step 3: Fold right sides together and sew a 1/2" seam to both sides. This is to close the seat cover.

    Step 3

    Turn your seat cover right side out and slip over your chair!

    After 1

     Your dorm room will be extremely unique with all of your hand made creations! Follow these tutorials or use it as inspiration to make your dorm room feel like home.

  • How To: Men's Bow Tie

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    This may sound weird being a girl, but I have always wanted to know how to sew bow ties. They are easily customizable and relatively simple to make, so I had to learn how for this week's post! Plus, with a dad and two brothers, I knew they would love this project...they're already fighting over who gets them!

    The necessary supplies are:

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    Once you have gathered your supplies it is time to trace and cut your fabric. I cut out my  pattern to the size I needed, 16.5, and taped the two ends together so that I had one long piece. Place it on the back of your fabric and use chalk or a fabric pencil to trace the sake on the fabric. I would recommend doubling the fabric over so that you get two pieces out of one cut! Pin the paper through both pieces of fabric to ensure that they do not move.

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    After this is done twice and you have four pieces of fabric, cut a piece of interfacing roughly into a rectangle long enough to cover the bow tie. I placed tracing paper over the fabric and ironed it on pressing firmly to make sure it was stuck well. I only added interfacing to two pieces, but depending on how thick yours is, you can do all four sides. NOTE: Make sure the glue side of the interfacing to stuck to the back of the fabric and this is the side you place paper over. The glue can ruin your iron if there is direct contact.

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    Once the interfacing is ironed on both sides trim away the edges so that you have a nice clean piece that is now slightly thicker.

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    Next, it is time to begin sewing. Place the ends of the like pieces together and sew them using a quarter inch seam. You should have two long pieces now, one having interfacing and one without.

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    All pieces should be sewn with the faces together because they will be turned right side after sewing. Place the two long pieces together and pin them to make sewing easier. Continue with the quarter inch seam and begin to attach the two pieces going around the entire edge. It is best to not remove your needle and keep a continuous thread. When you are sewing down the second side, leave a three inch gap so that the fabric can be turned inside out.

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    Using a loop turner, turn the bow tie inside out. The pattern is now on the outside and you have a hole in the center. I used the loop turner again the push out the top corners of the bow tie before ironing it. You want to make sure it is completely turned before ironing it so that it has the correct shape. Where the gap is, fold under both side a quarter inch and iron and pin them down.

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    Thread a needle with the white thread and do a ladder stitch to close the bow tie and ensure that no thread is showing. After a final run over with the iron, your bow tie is finished! This project was so fast and easy that I made two (the second fabric is #306483). Cotton fabrics are great for bow ties when combined with interfacing because the are easily ironed and hold their shape, but if you're feeling adventurous try out a silk fabric!

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    Don't forget to send us your finished bow ties, we'd love to see them!

    Sarah McConnico

  • Neoprene Fiend

    I've became a fiend for Neoprene overnight! It's lightweight and thick at the same time, stretchy, super soft and durable. What can you make out of them, you ask? Well, I decided to create my very own custom pillow, skirt and computer bag, all with the Digitally Printed Neoprene found in Mood Fabrics' disposal! Below are three separate tutorials showing you how I made them. Let's get started!

    np

    Neoprene: Triangles, Lips, & Floral

    Waistband

    Pillow Form

    Webbing

    Scissors

    Pins

    Measuring Tape

    Pencil

    CUSTOM NEOPRENE PILLOW

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    STEP 1 

    Begin by measuring the area of the pillow. Give room for seam allowances and cut two square pieces out of the neoprene.

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    STEP 2

    Sew three of the four sides with ¼” seam from the edge. Leave one side open for the insertion of the pillow. Before turning the case right side out, clip the corners to remove bulk.

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    STEP 3

    Fold in the edges to prepare for hand-stitched closure.

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    STEP 4

    Pin folded edges together and ladder stitch the fourth side closed to resemble the three other machine-stitched sides.

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    Voila! Your custom neoprene pillow!

    CUSTOM NEOPRENE SKIRT

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    STEP 1

    Start by cutting out two equal pieces of your skirt pattern. I 'eye-balled' my skirt pattern. Cut the pattern on the fold to ensure symmetry.

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    STEP 2

    Sew down the side seams using a ½” seam away from the edge.

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    STEP 3

    Fold down the top ¼” more than your desired waistband width. Pin in place and sew.

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    STEP 4

    Leave about an inch opening to insert waistband.

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    STEP 5

    Attach a large enough safety pin to one end of the waistband and ease it through the casing you created.

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    STEP 6

    Once all is through and around, box stitch the ends of the waistband to close.

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    STEP 7

    Finally, finish off the skirt with a simple hemline, typically a basic fold about ½” under.

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    Voila! Your custom neoprene skirt!

    CUSTOMER NEOPRENE COMPUTER BAG

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    STEP 1

    First, measure the area of your computer and add a seam allowance. Cut out four equal pieces of the neoprene.

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    STEP 2

    Using only two pieces, sew three of the four sides with ¼” seam from the edge. Clip the corners to remove bulk.

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    STEP 3

    Flip panel right side out. (Note: You may need to iron the fabric to flatten it.)

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    STEP 4

    Fold in top edges and pin down. Use a topstitch of about a ¼” to close final side. Repeat steps 2-4 to the other remaining two pieces.

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    STEP 5

    With right sides facing each other, topstitch the bottom edges of the panels together to create bottom seam.

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    STEP 6

    With your webbing, create a continuous loop over the right side of the joined panels to add handles. (Note: To calculate how much webbing is required, multiply your computer’s length by six, then add two inches for seam allowance.)

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    STEP 7

    Once in place, stitch the webbing to the case face. Ensure stability by making box seams at the beginning of each handle.

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    STEP 8

    Finish it off by sewing the side seams closed with a ¼” stitch from the edges. Flip right side out and….

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    Voila! Your custom neoprene computer bag!

    sop

  • DIY: Satin Circle Skirt

    This week's blog post is all about how to make a flowy and fun circle skirt. This was my first venture into sewing fashion apparel, so I wanted to choose an item that would require relatively easy stitches, which a skirt is perfect for. I chose a bright nylon satin with a nice weight and drape that would lend well towards the flow of the skirt; plus it is in a great orchid color for the perfect pop. My necessary materials are pictured below.

    DSC00454 Step 1: The first step is to get your fabric marked and cut. Being a circle skirt, the fabric can be folded four ways and requires fewer marks and cuts. To get the waistband cut, find the radius of your waist measure meant and make a semi-circle around the top of your fabric. Then, from the waist line, measure out the length you want your skirt to be and make a perfectly round mark on the fabric to cut along.

    DSC00457 Measuring the waistband to be 27".

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    Measuring the skirt length from the waistband.

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    The finished cut piece still folded.

    Step 2: Next, it is time to cut the fabric to create the extended waistband. I measure down the fabric 27" and then over 3.5". I made the width 3.5" so that i could have an 1.5" wide waist, and then a .25" seam allowance on each side. The waistband is doubled over so all of the measurements are doubled.

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    Marking the lines for the waistband.

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    The finished piece.

     Step 3: Now for the fun part, the zipper! This is absolutely necessary so that the skirt can be easily taken on and off. I chose a dark navy zipper because I love the combination of the colors, but you can choose any color you like! The first thing you want to do is make a straight cut down the entire length of the skirt where the zipper will be inserted.

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    Once the skirt is cut, place your zipper down and mark how far in from the waistband it will go. Where the zipper will end, you will sew the skirt back together with a .25" seam so that the bottom half is back together.

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    Lay the zipper down on the underside of the skirt and begin pinning for sewing. I ironed down a .25" seam on each side of the zipper and pinned the fabric to it so that sewing would be easier. You will also want to make sure your zipper is undone and that you place a zipper foot on your sewing machine. I then began to sew my zipper down the left side until I got to the bottom.

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    Without removing your needle, rotate the fabric so the you have a continuous seam and the go across the bottom of the zipper. Pivoting again, go back op the other side and your zipper should be completely sewn in!

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    The face of the zipper.

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    The back of the zipper.

    Step 4: Now to attach the waistband! When I cut the center hole of my skirt, the fabric stretched slightly, so I knew that it would end up being larger then I wanted so I chose to do a gathering stitch and create more movement  in the skirt so that I could ensure the waist would be 27". To do this, change your machine to a 4 or 5 stitch and start one inch in from your zipper and a quarter inch down from the edge. It is very important that you leave the threads on the end very long, so pull them out before you start sewing. Then sew along the entire width of the skirt until you reach the other side of the zipper and stop an inch early, making sure to leave the threads long again. Then, repeat the same stitch a .25" down from the first stitch.

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    Taking the long threads, pull them to gather the fabric evenly around the waistband until it is the proper width to fit. Without cutting your threads, place the waistband and skirt face to face and pin them together around the whole width. remember that you only have a .25" seam allowance and to pin accordingly. Once they are together, it is time to make your stitch.

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    The reason you leave the gathering stitch in is to keep the fabric rouged, but once your seam is done, you can use a seam ripper and take out these threads.

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    Once the two stitches are completely removed, fold you waistband fabric over the the underside roll under the edge a .25". After pinning this fabric around the entire skirt, make a ditch stitch so that the front has clean lines and there are no other visible seams. I made a a twisted waistband which was very easy to do with this fabric. It rolls naturally and adds a lot of detail, but if a flat waistband is preferred it will look great too!

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    Making sure it fit!

    Step 5: Alas! The final step! This part will be easy for all of you experienced sewers too, only the hem is left to do! I made a rolled him so all that is required is ironing and pinning in a .25" from the bottom of the fabric and then sewing it. Once that was done, I rolled the hem in and made another stitch. This is simply so that there are no visible seams and your skirt is nice and neatly done.

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    And now my finished skirt! I love the way it turned out and cannot wait for the chance to wear it! This color can be worn year around, but I already have a fall outfit picked out for it including tights, a chunky sweater, and booties.  Please let me know what you think about it and comment with your own finished skirts!

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    Happy sewing!

    Sarah McConnico

  • DIY: 4th of July Fabric Flag

    To keep up the 4th of July theme, this blog is all about how to make a shabby chic American flag from fabric. This will be another great red, white, and blue decoration for patriotic themed parties! It did not take me long at all and I love the idea that everyone's flag will turn out a little bit different depending which fabrics and ribbons are used and how they are layered. Read on to find the simple instructions!

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    Step 1: It's time to gather all of your materials! I chose to attach my fabrics to a yard stick to give it a craftier feel and change it up! Keep in mind you can use what I used or switch the fabrics out for other ones if you have a preference. Also, the polka dot fabric is the same one I used for my fabric pennant! That way my decor all ties in together. I know this is a long list, but it is just because all of my fabrics are listed out. In total I used eight red and white stripes to give the flag dimension.

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    The supplies are:

    Step 2: My first step was to create my stars using the denim and 50 buttons! If you have time, sew them all on, but if not you can use a hot glue gun for faster application. I looked at a flag to make sure I attached the buttons in the same rows so that it was accurate. The denim that I used was 1/3 yard wide and about 16" long. I left the selvage at the bottom because I liked the frayed look. I did not cut it exactly straight either, it needed a little character!

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    Step 3: Once all of the buttons are all sewn on, it is time to glue the denim to the yard stick. I attached it from the back to that the front of the yard stick is clean and the numbers are visible. You want to make sure that your yard stick has a .25" hole at each end for the cord it will be hung by. When you glue the denim, do not cover the hole, as you can see my fabric starts about .5" in.

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    Step 4: Now it is time to prepare your 3 other fabric pieces for gluing. I cut them in varying sizes between 1.5" and 2.5". The reason I chose to use some fabrics instead of all ribbon is because I needed the wider widths to add variation and I like the unfinished edges from cutting the fabric. It gave the flag a more unfinished look that matched the denim.

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    Step 5: The last step is to begin adding the fabric and ribbon to the back of the yard stick! I started at the denim and made my way down alternating between red and white and trying to put different textures together. I sometimes layered the fabrics and ribbon to make sure that the flag would be plenty thick. I also cut all of the strips into different lengths so that the bottom did not abruptly stop.

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     I had no rhyme or reason to it, I just had fun with it and loved the way it turned out! My last task was to tie on the cord that the flag could hang from. My project was fairly large because it was 3 feet wide and around 5 feet long. You can use something other than a yard stick if you wish that would make it not as wide, just make sure the width and length are proportional to the American flag!

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    The finished flag!

    Happy Crafting!

    Sincerely,

    Sarah McConnico

  • DIY Beach Cover Up

     Create a fun easy bathing suit cover up with this easy to follow tutorial.

    Make the most of your summer!

    Items needed

    Items needed

    2 yds. Fabric

    Thread to match fabric

    Thread to match trim & lace

    2 yds. Trim (for bottom of cover up)

    2 yds. Lace (for neck line)

    Dress Pins

    Seam ripper – for mistakes

    White erasable pen

    Bobbins

    Measuring tape

    L square measuring ruler

    Safety pin or loop turner

    Scissors

    Step 1: Pick out 2 yards of fabric and matching thread

    Step 2: Wind the bobbin of the thread you chose to be used on your garment (use sewing machine hand book for directions on bobbin threading if needed).

    Step 3: Thread machine properly with the same thread used for bobbin. (Use sewing machine manual for directions if needed).

    Now you’re ready to sew!

    Step 4: Fold fabric in half selvedge-to-selvedge, right sides together and iron.

    Step 5: Measure width of the fabric to 20” (folded = 40”) mark a line with the white pen throughout the width of the garment to ensure an even line. Cut fabric to a total of 40” (Add 1-2 inches for seam allowance).

    Step 5

    Step 6: Measure 60” long, mark a line with the white pen throughout the length of the garment to ensure an even straight line.  Cut the fabric adding 1-2 inches for seam allowance. You can always hem the bottom to create a shorter length dress.

    Step 7: After the fabric is cut 60 “ long and 40” wide, fold the fabric right sides together cross wise, (the opposite of selvedge-to-selvedge when originally cut).  Iron the fabric where it folds and pin; this will be the top of the dress.

    Step 8:  Lay the fabric flat still folded cross-wise with pins in place. Now carefully fold the fabric in half to find the middle marking point in the top of the dress. Mark this point with a white pen. After you mark this point unfold the fabric in half and lay flat.

     

    Step 9:  Lay an L square measuring ruler horizontally against the middle point you just marked down. You want this point to fall directly on the 5” mark. Mark 2 more points, one at 0 and one at 10”. This will be the start of your neckline.

    Step 10: Now lay the L-square measuring tape vertically on the middle point line (the mark at  5”). Draw a line with your white pen down to the 10” mark.

    Step 10

    Step 11: Place the L square ruler on a diagonal, meeting the two points. One point being 0 on the horizontal neckline and the other meeting the 10” mark on the vertical line previously drawn in the last step. Do this for both horizontal points making a V-neck line.

    Step 11

    Step 12:  After making the V markings with your white pen re-fold the fabric in half.  Iron the fabric flat where the V neck line is placed. Cut the V shape out of the neck line while folded to insure the front neckline and back neckline are even.

     Step 12

    Step 12-2

    Step 13: After you have cut your neckline out, try on your cover up to see if the neckline fits to your liking. Make adjustments as needed.

     Step 13

    Step 14: If you are satisfied with your neckline, fold your fabric back in cross-wise direction, line up your neckline and pin it.

    Step 14

    Step 15: With your neckline pinned, create a hem on both sides of your dress. My seam was ½”. Sew this seam while back tacking at the beginning and the end of your stitches.

     Step 15

    Step 16:  After the seams are sewn on both sides of your fabric lay it flat again folded cross wise and still with the neckline lined up. Use a measuring tape and start from the bottom of your dress and measure up to the 15” mark. This will begin to create your sleeves.  Now, pin together starting from the bottom to the 15” mark. Sew up to this 15” point with both seams lined up. Do this on both sides of your dress.

    Step 17: Now that you have the bases of your dress sewn with the sleeves formed and the body of the dress sewn its time to add trim. Create a ½ hem at the bottom of the dress just like you did for the sides of the dress. Iron and sew.

     Step 17

    Step 18: Lay your trim out and pin it to the bottom of the dress, with the dress inside out. Remember to change thread in machine if needed to match the trim on your dress. After you pin it, and cut the trim to fit around the dress sew this dress on the same line you previously sewed the hem on the bottom of the dress.

     Step 18

     Step 18-2

    Step 19: After finishing  your trim at the bottom of your dress, it is optional to add lace around your neckline. I chose a lace trim to add to my neckline.  You are going to want to pin your lace around your neckline with the ends meeting at the V.

    Step 20: Where both ends meet at the V place the together like a sandwich and mark a deep diagonal with a pin on both sides. Do this to the front V and the back V.  Now unpin the lace from your garment but leave the deep V diagonal marks.

    Step 21: You may cut the access but leave about an inch from the diagonal marks. Sew the diagonal mark back tacking.

     Step 21

    Step 22: After you have sewn the diagonal marks on both V formations, open the two sides up and press down to make a neat V with the lace.

     Step 22

    Step 23: After the V is neat and formed; cut any excess lace that is sticking out of the V. Pin the lace to the neckline of your dress. Pin at either side of the lace if it is a wide lace. Sew the lace to your neckline starting with the edge of the lace that is closest to the edge of the dress

     Step 23

    Step 23-2

    Step 24: After you sew the edge closest to the neck, if your trim is wide sew it at another point to make sure it lays flat on the dress.

     Step 24

    Step 24-2

    You are now ready to hit the beach or pool in your fabulous new cover up. Great for 4th of July or summer parties !

    Optional Add-On

    After completing my coverup and trying it on, I wanted it to be more stable and drape on my shoulders more neatly, If you want the same for your cover up follow these steps for an extra simple add on.

    Step 1: Measure out a long piece of fabric about 2" wide, the length of mine was about 12", I made mine longer than needed to be safe. Fold the strip together with right sides together and sew along the edge.

    Optional

    Step 2: After sewing this together clip a large safety pin to on edge of the tube, or you may use a loop turner to turn your tube right side out. After turning this inside out it should measure to be an inch wide.

    Screen Shot 2015-06-16 at 9.41.44 AM

    Step 3: Put your beach cover up on and decide where you want your back strap to be placed, pin it where it will create the maximum stability to your coverup, this will be higher up on your back about where your shoulder blades lay. Turning your cover up inside out, sew two diagonal lines connecting the strap to your garment about an inch apart. Do this on both sides, cut the excess strap off.

    Screen Shot 2015-06-16 at 9.41.08 AM

    Completed this is what your strap should look like.

    Completed back strp

    This will insure a stable garment on your shoulders, being that this is an oversized loose cover up it is a good idea, but not required option!

    Enjoy the sun and have fun while being stylish during the summer in your trendy beach cover up!

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  • New Designer at Mood Fabrics: Steven Alan

    210 Mood Fabrics is pleased to be carrying fabrics from designer Steven Alan, who's known for his modern reinterpretation of classics. If you like "heritage-wear" pieces, you'll want to check out these Steven Alan fabrics we've recently uploaded to MoodFabrics.com.

    "The great thing about Steven Alan...is that his clothes feel like fashion but are accessible for those who find self-consciously cool labels pretentious." —Style.com

    Steven Alan fabrics now available at Mood Fabrics, in store and online. Steven Alan Coral and Ecru Crinkled Gauze, available at MoodFabrics.com
    Steven Alan fabrics now available at Mood Fabrics, in store and online. Steven Alan Blue and Ivory Cotton Plaid, available online at MoodFabrics.com
    Steven Alan fabrics now available at Mood Fabrics, in store and online. Steven Alan Moss Green Checked Cotton Shirting, available online at MoodFabrics.com.
  • New Arrival Designer Fabrics at Mood: Anna Sui

    Just in at MoodFabrics.com: A big batch of fabrics from designer Anna Sui!
    Anna Sui Mood Fabrics Click on the photo above to see MoodFabric.com's entire batch of Anna Sui fabrics. 

    Anna Sui"Everyone’s favorite Detroit-born dollybird, Sui’s always been boho to the bone, but in a way that’s more glam than granola. Think Biba-era London, rock-and-roll Victoriana, floppy hats, Empire-line flou, and peacock feathers—all atop the perfect pair of tough-chick boots. Sui started out in the eighties and debuted on the runway in 1991. Today, her patchwork-boudoir aesthetic is instantly recognizable in her clothing, her store design, even in her beauty packaging. It’s a true lifestyle brand, and business continues to boom: She’s got a Soho flagship, 32 boutiques, international cult status (particularly in Asia), a successful beauty line, and the pièce de resistance: the Anna Sui BoHo Barbie®." —New York Magazine (The Cut)

    Anna Sui runway fashion We love Anna Sui's affinity for romantic prints. Check out Mood's new assortment of silks, cottons and poly prints from this leading designer of boho chic.
  • New Thakoon Addition Fabrics at MoodFabrics.com

    collage_2013-04-04_12-57-44.p collage_2013-04-04_13-06-41.p

    New on MoodFabrics.com: A huge assortment of fabrics from Thakoon Addition spring 2012! We're always thrilled to get a big grouping of fabrics like this, especially when they come from a designer as talented as Thakoon. These fabrics are all currently available on our New Arrivals page, but hurry, quantities are limited and these won't last long. Some of these fabrics may be available in small amounts at our NYC and LA stores. Don't you think they're perfect for spring and summer sewing? We bet when you sew something with one of these fabrics you won't be wearing a frowny-face like this model!

     
  • Impossible: Getting Tired of Fine Fabric

    I'm in love with this fabric!
    When I first took this job here at Mood I wondered: Could a girl get sick of fabric? You know, like a teenager who won't eat ice cream after working in an ice cream shop all summer long? Readers, I'm happy to report I'm still flipping out over fabric two months into my new position here. My newest fabric crush is shown here, a colorful poly-blend matelassé Mood just acquired on an Italian buying trip. I was introduced to it in our warehouse last week and I started drooling immediately. As soon as I could, I nabbed two yards to make a dress.
    Italian poly-blend matelassé available at Mood NYC and Mood LA, and soon on MoodFabrics.com. 60" wide and $50/yd.
    I'm trying to find a dress pattern that's worthy of this fine material. Something with simple lines to let the fabric be the star. Feel free to leave any pattern suggestions in the comments area. I hope to make a muslin this week and start on the dress by the long weekend. Finished dress will be shared here, I promise. Now here are some words that make my heart go pitter-pat: "Italian fabric buying trip." How cool would it be to go on a trip to Italy to buy fabrics from the same textile mills that Valentino, Etro and Dolce & Gabbana use? Gee, that sounds like the prize for a Mood-sponsored contest, doesn't it? Maybe someday, dear readers!
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