Cue the groovy tunes, summon your inner Twiggy, and pull out those white go-go boots: It’s time to pattern hack the Kiri dress! Inspired by the Yesterday Collection, we couldn’t imagine making anything other than a Mod ’60s look to kick off the launch of this retro collection. Not only would this collection lend itself to a fabulous kaftan, the flared Cherry Jumpsuit, wide leg Liv pants, or an Aspen mini skirt, but I can envision pillows, kitchen curtains, and cushions! Our Kiri Dress Free Sewing Pattern already has some major vintage vibes, and so we knew it was the perfect place to start! This redux was a mix of beginner friendly and intermediate level adjustments, and most of the latter are entirely optional. This is a choose your own adventure pattern hack!

Purchase Materials Used Below:

• 2.5 yards of Mood Exclusive Turquoise Arcade Fever Stretch Cotton Sateen
• 8 pc – White Sewn Look Plastic Shank Back Button 44L
• 1 spool of 607 Crystal 100m Gutermann Sew All Thread 
• MDF240 – The Kiri Dress Sewing Pattern (free download below!)

Alternative Recommended Fabrics:

• Poplin
• Twill
• Denim

Download Your Free Kiri Dress Pattern Here

Print pages 2 – 25 & 35 – 40

All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated.

I made the following adjustments to the pattern:

• Omitted the sleeves and collar
• Shortened the width of the shoulder
• Brought the side seams in
• Redrew the armscye 
• Made arm and neckline facing
• Added self drafted pockets

How to adjust the pattern:

1 – Decide on the width you want the shoulders to be, and add 1” for the seam allowance. I chose a finished width of 4”, and with the SA added, that equaled 5”.

2 – Measure out from the neck, and mark your shoulder width.

A note about the next steps: 

By significantly narrowing the shoulder, we need to make sure that we are adding the bust width back to the dress. This pattern has a lot of ease, and I didn’t need to add all that width back (I wanted the final dress to be more fitted than the original Kiri dress). This is where you’ll need to determine how much ease you want. Compare your measurements to those on the pattern, and make your decision based on that. Don’t forget that the button placket adds 1” to the final circumference of the dress!

Because of the oversized nature of the Kiri Dress, the original pattern has dropped shoulders and a lowered armscye, and you will most likely want to raise it if you’re making a sleeveless dress. There are a few ways to figure out where it needs to be raised to: 

• Refer to an armscye of a well fitting sleeveless garment you already own.
• Hold the pattern up to yourself or a dress form, and mark the spot.

3 – Either move and readjust the existing armscye, or draw a new one. I transferred the original armscye to the new location and used it as a guide, and re-drew the bottom half. As pictured below.

4 – Draw a new side seam parallel to the original. 

5 – Repeat with the back. 

6 – Measure the amount you removed from the side seams at the hem, and remove that amount from the hem facings. 

How to make the neck and arm facings:

I chose to make facing because I didn’t want any visible stitches around the neck and arms. This step is optional. If you prefer, use bias tape and stitch to the wrong side to finish the edges.

1 – Trace or outline the top of the front dress – from the top of the side seam, up the armscye, and across the neck until you get to the CF line. 

2 – Mark 3” down the CF of the front dress. Then mark 3” down from the armpit.

3 – Connect the two 3” marks, using the outline from step 1 as a guide for the curves. 

4 – Repeat with the back.

How to draft pockets:

The size and placement of the pockets is up to you! Here’s how I made mine:

1 – Cut out two 6” x 8.5” rectangles. 

2 – Fold the sides and bottom under ½”, and press. 

3 – Fold and press the top edge down ¼”, then repeat with a 1” fold. Stitch in place. 

4 – Decide on the placement of the pockets, pin to the dress, and topstitch the sides and bottom. 

5 – Cut out 4 6.5” x 3.5” rectangles. Place right sides together, and sew with a ½” seam allowance, leaving enough space to turn it right side out. Trim the SA, clip the corners, and turn right side out. Press, then topstitch the two sides and bottom. 

6 – Pin your pocket flaps to the dress, right sides up, with the unsewn edge facing up. Topstitch the top edge to the dress. 

6 – Cut out two 5” x 5.25” squares. Repeat steps 2 – 4.

How to sew the dress: 

1 – Sew the front and back facings together along the shoulders, right sides together. Press the seams open. 

2 – Finish the lower edge. Set aside for now. 

3 – Sew the front and back dress pieces together at the shoulders, right sides together. Press the seams open. 

4 – Pin the facing to the dress, right sides together. Sew along the neck. Unfold the facing and press the seam allowance towards the facing. Understitch the facing, and press it to the inside of the dress. 

5 – Open up the dress at the side seams and lay it flat, as pictured below.

Note: For the following instructions I made a small scale muslin of the top portion of the dress, to show how to sew all-in-one facing for a clean seamless finish.

6 – Start rolling one side towards the other like a burrito. Once you have most of the dress rolled up, you should be at the opposite armhole.

7 – Bring the facing (which should be against your flat surface) up, around, and over the burrito.

8 – The facing and the dress should now be right sides together, with the outer armhole matched up, and the burrito in between. Pin and sew along the outer edge of the armhole. Leave the sides free. 

9 – Pull the burrito through, and your first armhole is done! Repeat with the other side. 

10 – Pin the side seams of the dress right sides together. Unfold the remaining raw edge of the facing, and sew from the facings side seam all the way down to the hem of the dress, pictured below.

11 – Continue sewing the dress as instructed in the original post, adding the button placket and the hem facing.