The fabric topic for today is (drumroll please): crepe.
It was originally made from silk and traditionally worn to mourn the death of loved ones, but as new substrates have risen, crepe is more common in garment construction. Crepe takes on many different forms, making it suitable for all seasons and a wide variety of occasions. You likely own garments made of crepe or have sewn with crepe before. It’s well known for its texture and impeccable drape, but it’s quite slippery, which poses difficulties when sewing. Let’s investigate crepe to find out what makes it appealing and how to manage it like a pro when sewing.
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Crepe Basics
As mentioned above, crepe was traditionally made from silk, but is now made from cotton and wool, and synthetic fibers like elastane and polyester. Crepe is quite versatile, as its properties vary drastically depending on its fiber contents. It is made as a woven or knit and can undergo various processes for development. Notable characteristics include crepe’s crinkled texture and a wrinkled appearance. Today, polyester crepe is the most used in the industry because it’s comfortable to wear and wrinkle resistant.
Types of Crepe Fabric
Crepe fabrics, treasured for their characteristic crinkled texture and graceful drape, have held a permanent place in the annals of the sewing world for years. Their versatility in both home and fashion sewing is truly a testament to their timeless appeal. It’s essential to note that crepe isn’t simply a one-note textile; there exist multiple types of crepe fabric, each offering unique qualities, strengths, and applications.
Crepe Back Satin
Among the various types, Crepe Back Satin takes the spotlight with its dual-sided nature. This material ingeniously combines the glossy sheen of satin on one side with the classic crinkled texture of crepe on the other. Its inherent versatility makes it an ideal choice for creating intricate fashion pieces that demand visual interest, as well as luxurious home décor items like plush throw pillows or elegant table runners.
Crepe de Chine
Next in line is Crepe de Chine, a lightweight variety of silk crepe. This type is particularly beloved for its subtle, pebbled texture and the beautiful, fluid drape it offers. This fabric shines in the creation of airy summer dresses, delicate blouses, and sophisticated scarves in the world of fashion. Simultaneously, it’s a popular choice for crafting lightweight, ethereal curtains in the realm of home sewing.
4ply Crepe
On the other hand, 4ply Crepe, with its luxurious feel, stands as a heavyweight contender in the crepe family. Its robustness and durability, coupled with the classic elegance of crepe, make it especially suited for creating winter fashion staples such as sturdy skirts and tailored suits. It also excels in the creation of structured home décor items that demand a bit more resilience.
Traditional Crepe
Lastly, traditional Crepe fabric, typically made of silk or wool, presents a distinctively crinkled surface and a graceful flow. This versatile fabric is a top-notch choice for all types of clothing, spanning from casual wear to formal outfits, as well as a diverse range of home décor projects.
Unlocking the nuances of these different types of crepe fabric can truly open up a universe of sewing possibilities. With such a diverse arsenal at your disposal, you’re equipped to elevate both your fashion projects and home décor undertakings to new levels of elegance and versatility.
Advantages of Crepe Fabric
When it comes to sewing or designing, Crepe fabric offers several unique advantages that make it a beloved choice for creatives around the world. Its distinct texture and versatile nature make it an adaptable medium for various projects.
Textural Appeal
One of the foremost advantages of Crepe is its textural appeal. The fabric’s crinkled surface adds an element of visual interest to any garment or home décor item. This means that even the simplest designs can have an added level of sophistication. The texture also lends a forgiving quality to the fabric, making it a good choice for both novice and experienced sewers as it can easily hide minor sewing imperfections.
Exceptional Draping Quality
Another significant benefit of Crepe is its exceptional draping quality. Crepe hangs beautifully and moves gracefully with the body, making it perfect for flowing garments like dresses, blouses, and skirts. This drape also works well in home décor, where it can be used to create soft, elegant window treatments or sumptuous throws.
Seasonal Versatility and Durability
Additionally, Crepe’s versatility cannot be overstated. With various types, such as Crepe de Chine, Crepe Back Satin, or 4ply Crepe, each offering unique qualities, it can be used in a wide array of applications. From lightweight summer clothing to more structured winter garments, or from delicate curtains to robust home décor items, Crepe caters to all.
The durability of Crepe fabric makes it a practical choice. While it maintains a delicate appearance, Crepe is surprisingly resilient, promising longevity for the pieces you create.
Overall, with its texture, drape, versatility, and durability, Crepe fabric provides a wealth of advantages for all your sewing and designing endeavors.
Disadvantages of Crepe Fabric
Despite its numerous advantages, crepe fabric also carries some disadvantages that could potentially affect its use in sewing or designing. Understanding these limitations can help you make more informed choices for your creative projects.
Tricky Texture
The crinkled texture that gives crepe its unique aesthetic can also present challenges. Crepe’s textured surface can be difficult to work with, particularly for less experienced sewers. The texture can sometimes cause the fabric to slip or shift during the sewing process, making precision a bit tricky to achieve.
Special Maintenance Required
Another consideration is crepe’s maintenance needs. Certain types of crepe, especially those made from natural fibers like silk or wool, may require special care when cleaning. They may not be machine washable and might demand professional dry cleaning instead, adding to the overall maintenance cost and effort.
It May be Cost Prohibitive
The cost of crepe can also be a disadvantage. High-quality crepe, particularly silk crepe, can be expensive, which might not fit into everyone’s budget. While there are less expensive synthetic versions, they might not offer the same look and feel as their natural counterparts.
There are More Sustainable Options
For those concerned about environmental impact, it’s worth noting that synthetic crepe fabrics are typically derived from petroleum-based products, which are non-renewable and have a higher environmental footprint compared to natural fibers.
While crepe is a versatile and popular fabric, these potential disadvantages should be considered to ensure it’s the right choice for your specific sewing or designing project.
Crepe Characteristics
The following characteristics may vary depending on the fiber content used. Always read the care labor before proceeding to launder your crepe.
- Breathable
- Organic crepe is the most breathable, but other fibers provide decent ventilation when worn in high temperatures
- Moisture-wicking
- A considerable option for warmer climates
- Flammable
- Has low heat resistance (especially when made with silk)
- Rough hand
- Its 3D texture presents dimension for garments
- Fluid drape
- Its drape makes it suitable for formal wear and evening gowns
To launder: Follow care instructions on the label. The fibers used greatly impact the care techniques needed.
Common End Uses
From the red carpet to elegant home decor, crepe has many end-uses.
The most common end uses for crepe are:
- Evening gowns
- Dresses
- Lining garments
- Suiting
- Home decor (curtains, window treatments, pillows)
Tips for Sewing with Crepe
- Start your crepe journey by sewing with polyester crepe first because it’s easiest to sew
- Line up your fabric (using selvage for reference if needed) to keep an eye on the grainline, so the fabric doesn’t shift during cutting
- Prewash as instructed
- Work with single layers when cutting to prevent slipping
- Use tabletop scissors or a rotary cutter on a cutting mat to avoid snags
- Line up cut pieces with pattern pieces to double-check for slippage during cutting
- Use straight pins or fabric weights when cutting out pattern pieces
- Use fabric stabilizer when possible (read care instructions first) or apply tissue paper to stabilize the fabric for cutting and sewing
- Adjust your sewing machine to have a low thread tension to prevent puckering
- Increase the presser foot tension to keep the fabric more secure
- Use a new fine-point to prevent snags
- A walking foot will feed the fabric through the machine evenly
- Use an overlock, overcast, french, or zigzag stitch to finish seams
- A blind or rolled hem gives crepe a streamlined and clean look
- To press, adjust iron as needed and use a press cloth while ironing on the wrong side of the fabric to prevent damage to the fabric
Alternatives to Crepe Fabric
Certainly, while crepe is a versatile and popular choice for many sewing projects, there are several alternatives that can provide different textures, drapes, and properties to meet your specific needs. Here are a few:
- Chiffon: This lightweight, sheer fabric made from silk, polyester, or nylon has a slightly textured feel and a lovely drape, making it a good choice for delicate and airy garments.
- Satin: If you’re looking for a fabric that has a smooth finish and a lustrous sheen, satin can be a great alternative. It’s ideal for creating elegant evening wear or opulent home décor items.
- Rayon: With its smooth texture, fluid drape, and affordability, rayon can be an excellent alternative to crepe. It’s versatile enough for a variety of garments and has a slight shine that adds to its appeal.
- Georgette: Made traditionally from silk, but also available in synthetic fibers, Georgette is a lightweight, crinkly fabric. Its characteristic grainy texture and flowing drape make it suitable for blouses, dresses, and scarves.
- Linen: If you need a sturdier fabric with a bit of structure, linen could be a good alternative. It’s breathable and has a unique texture that adds interest to garments or home décor items.
Remember, the best alternative to crepe will depend on your project’s requirements for texture, drape, care, and overall look and feel.
FAQs About Crepe Fabric
How is Crepe Fabric Made?
Crepe fabric is made by twisting fibers, often silk or wool, before weaving them into a fabric. The resulting high-twist yarn gives crepe its characteristic crinkled texture. There are also synthetic crepes made from polyester and rayon.
Is Crepe Fabric Easy to Sew?
Crepe fabric can present some challenges due to its textured surface and fluid drape. While it can be slippery and may shift during sewing, its texture can also hide minor sewing imperfections, making it forgiving for both beginners and experienced sewers.
Can You Iron Crepe Fabric?
Yes, you can iron crepe fabric, but it should be done with care. Always use a low heat setting and consider using a press cloth to protect the fabric. For crepe made from delicate fibers like silk, steaming may be a safer option.
Does Crepe Fabric Wrinkle?
While crepe fabric has a naturally crinkled texture, it is relatively resistant to additional wrinkling. The high-twist fibers used in its construction give it a certain degree of wrinkle-resistance, making it ideal for travel or long-wear garments.
11 comments
I have been looking for a particular color shade over past 2 years…nothing I see comes close: an amber rose pink. Is there a way to take a photo of the sample piece and get an accurate comparison to some other like fabric?
Unfortunately it’s difficult to match a color via photo, but if you’re able to send in a swatch to our Customer Service team, they can suggest some options!
One of my best and favourite blog ever.
I’ve found a pattern for some nice flowers summery trousers and it suggests using crepe. I’ve never used it before but I can’t wait!! I’m just wondering whether I’d need to line it? Can you please help?
Hi, Lauren! Crepe can come in a variety of weights, so it’ll depend on which one you end up choosing. A lot of them don’t require a lining though. 🙂
I am currently sewing a skirt with a synthetic crepe fabric. I have my machine stitch length set at 2, but it is still puckering. Should I set my machine at 1.5 stitch length or would it help if I use tissue paper beneath it while sewing?
Hi Charlotte! Sewing with crepe fabric can be a little tricky sometimes! Tissue paper is definitely worth a try. Otherwise, the first thing I always check is my needle: make sure it’s a brand new sharp needle (microtex is best).
Hi, Elisabeth,
I’m mending a clerical robe by hand. I think it’s “wonder crepe,” based on its brand name. It weights a tone so it’s not lightweight crepe. Alas, the 4.5″ strip of velvet trim, which goes around the neck to the bottom hem, has come loose on both edges. The last time someone reattached the trim, I think she used doubled all-purpose polyester thread and whip stitched by hand. It looks like a few stitches came loose, then a long line of stitching slipped out — repeatedly.
Can you suggest a different hand stitch or a thread with different content or strength that might hold up longer? Quilting thread? Back-stitch?
Hello, Phyllis! That sounds like quite a project! I recommend nylon thread, as it’s very strong and clear so it’ll blend in nicely. If you’re looking for a hand stitch that will last the longest, the back stitch is the winner in that regard. If you’re concerned about it being visible, you could try a partial back stitch, but if you’re using the clear nylon thread I don’t think you’ll run into that problem. 🙂 Good luck and happy sewing!
Can you dye polyester crepe fabric? If you can, how would you recommend going about this?
Hi Amy! Use a dye specifically for synthetic fabric, like Rit DyeMore, which we sell here. Follow the directions on the back of the bottle. We also have a tutorial on How to Dye Fabric – The Basics which has some good tips!