For some, September means heading back to school, drinking lattes, and dreaming of summer days spent by the beach. Tans fade, fruit salads turn into fruit pies, and beachy linen layers become fall bundles. But for the fashion forward, the start of fall is all about spring! That’s right, Spring 2020 is right around the corner, bringing with it blooming florals, swinging skirts, and streetwear made up of knits that can’t be stopped. Let’s take a look at who’s on the docket this fall, and what trends from last season may have an impact.
Tom Ford’s first act as head of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) was to remake the wheel that is NYFW. Shaving the celebrations down to just six days, Spring 2020 in New York is jam-packed with the top tier designers that New York knows and loves. Let’s take a look at the heavy hitters heading to New York Fashion Week.
- Pyer Moss
- Pyer Moss was created in 2013 by Kerby Jean-Raymond as part fashion brand, part social experiment. Pairing with Cross Coulors and FUBU to celebrate black and brown designers and highlight their effects on fashion, Pyer Moss has quickly become a recognizable brand in the industry. Where will Jean-Raymond take Pyer Moss for Spring 2020?
- The Row
- Masters of duality, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have turned their classically modern fashion brand into a powerhouse of tasteful tailoring. Millennial moguls, the duo are self-taught in all things fashion, and continue to create highly sought after silhouettes. Can the team double down on The Row’s artistry and esteem?
- Lela Rose
- For Fall 2019 Ready-to-Wear, Lela Rose staged a dog show. As models marched down the runway wearing outfits ideal for afternoon tea, paired with playful pups, Lela Rose’s usual effervescent femininity filled the room. This dog and pony show was the most recent in a line of over-the-top, fun-filled fashion shows that anyone who follows Lela Rose has come accustomed to. Will she bring out the big dogs for Spring 2020?
- Alice + Olivia
- With an initial showing at The Russian Tea House in 2002, Alice + Olivia started with a simple collection of trousers in bold prints and colors. Making the trouser the focus of an outfit, Alice + Olivia quickly became a fashion mainstay as their flashy trousers turned into a variety of eye-catching ensembles. Will Alice + Olivia change it up and bring on the basic this season, or stick with their typical trends?
- Oscar de la Renta
- A true fashion legend, Oscar de la Renta combined modern tailoring with old-world aesthetics, creating a fashion powerhouse few can manage. Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia seem to be up to the task, as they take inspiration from world travels to maintain this global brands notoriety. Where will Kim and Garcia take Oscar de la Renta, and the rest of the fashion-obsessed, this season?
Trends from February NYFW
For Fall 2019, New York showed a lot of jumpers. From elegant jump-suits to casual overalls, jumpers were definitely the most popular garment for NYFW, seen in Nili Lotan’s look. Fiery red was another major trend, the color that just won’t fade. New York also left their jaded styles behind in favor of romantic ruffles, expertly shown in Rebecca Taylor’s simple suit with ruffled lapel. Fall was all about florals and pastels, as soft purples and blossoms bloomed on garments made for chilly autumn afternoons. In addition to romance and petals, there was a certain structure in New York that allowed for big sleeves and skirts, as well immaculately tailored gowns. Christian Siriano’s bulbous blouse is an excellent example of this style in blazing white.
Looking to create a jumpsuit? Check out Mood’s Outfit and Ensemble Patterns! Utilize ponte knits for a comfortable, sophisticated style, or denim for gardening or heading to the club. For structured silhouettes use taffeta and stiffeners!
London Fashion Week still stands amid calls to cancel from Extinction Rebellion, a group of environmentalists backed by the likes of Phoebe English and Patrick McDowell. While some call for cancellation, LFW has started selling tickets to shows, an effort to get the public in the front seat. But who needs a front seat to fashion week when you can just follow along at home with Mood Sewciety?
- Ports 1961
- Founded in Newport, Canada in 1961 as simply Ports, the brand was re-imagined into the global fashion house it is today in 2004. Creative director Natasa Cagalj has a penchant for perfection, but let loose for Fall 2019 Ready-to-Wear with slightly skewed prints and asymmetrical silhouettes. Will Cagalj tighten the reigns for Ports 1961’s Spring 2020 collection?
- Inspired by his mother’s Studio 54 days, this designer is dedicated to disco. Michael Halpern graduated Central Saint Martins in 2016, and his collections have been taking the hearts of Londoners, and New Yorkers, by storm ever since. For Fall 2019, Halpern took his disco details and applied them to opera coats, evening wear, and short skirts. How will disco dance its way into Halpern’s Spring 2020 collection?
- Victoria Beckham
- From spice girl to designer world, Victoria Beckham’s fashion-forward collections are far from what you’d expect to see from a former pop-star and style sensation. Pulling inspiration from her own needs on the red carpet, Beckham creates practical pieces of perfection. Her Fall 2019 collection was laced with color and detailed tailoring, while Resort 2020 was shot through with neutrals and pops of primary colors. What will Victoria Beckham really really want for Spring 2020, and will she deliver?
- Emilia Wickstead
- Established in 2008, Emilia Wickstead’s modern tailoring is infused with femininity. From royalty to red carpet, fashion’s most powerful influencers have been seen sporting this stylish brand. Pulling from the fashion of The Godfather III for her most recent season, the voluptuous silhouettes and pearl embellishments brought to life the indulgent fantasies of mob wives and daughters. Will Wickstead create a collection fashionistas can’t refuse for Spring 2020?
- Edeline Lee
- Shirking the traditional show, Edeline Lee hosted a unique presentation to showcase her Fall 2019 collection. Inviting a variety of celebrities, editors, and activists to attend and speak, each ensemble was shown on a single stage, all on the same model. Will it be business as usual for Edeline Lee, or will she shake it up this season?
Trends from February LFW
London Fashion Week for Fall 2019 was made up of opulent styles. The coat dress made its way onto the runway, ideal for a fashionable day in London. Burberry’s stunning example is the epitome of everything English. Puff Sleeves were attached to every garment imaginable, further fleshing out the structured silhouettes from NYFW. Halpern wasn’t the only one with disco on the mind, as sequins became a major trend. Check out Reem Acra’s gorgeous sequined dress, the perfect way to use sequins in an elegant, exciting manner. There was one trend in particular that lacked the lavish look of London for Fall, soybean. Soybean was a Pantone color of the year, and girl were they spot on, as this basic beige was plastered across every runway. Velvet and velour was the favorite fabric in London, shown beautifully with Duru Olowu’s hot pink, crushed velvet dress.
When you think of Italy, what do you think of? Of Rome, of eating pasta and sipping wine? Or Venice, walking along the canals and sipping espresso? If you’re a true fashion freak, you’ll think of Milan, of a tall woman with dark hair, big sunglasses and red lipstick. If you’re anything like me, you’ll think of sipping wine in Venice and eating pasta with said tall woman. Either way, Milan is for fashion and Milan Fashion Week is, without a doubt, one of the best weeks in the world when it comes to style. What can we expect from the crown jewel of fashion month?
- Founded in 1978 by Gianni Versace, the brand exploded with its opulent styles and expressive prints. Taken over by Donatella in 1997, she has continued the extravagance Versace is known for. For Resort 2020, Versace took inspiration from the American wild west, but it’s not the first time. Ornate Versace prints paired with luxe suede and denim jackets, a spaghetti western if there ever was one. Will Versace continue westward for Spring 2020?
- Known as the sixth Fendi sibling, Karl Lagerfeld took Fendi to new heights after being hired in 1965. His passing shook the fashion world, but was intensely felt at Fendi, where Silvia Venturini Fendi has taken over in his stead. Her first full collection without him, Resort 2020 was a seamless transition to a world without Lagerfeld. Bright reds that featured the subtle double F logo popped with polka dots and asymmetrical hemlines. How will Silvia continue to shape Fendi’s future?
- Established in 1913 as a luxury leather-bound luggage brand, Prada was re-imagined by granddaughter Fratelli Prada and her future husband, leather-goods manufacturer Patrizio Bertelli in the late 1970’s. Prada is where contemporary art and wearable fashion meet, the favorite brand of functional fashionistas. Dotted with utility belts and Frankenstein motifs, Fall 2019 Ready-to-Wear was an ode to Prada itself. Will this brand stick to its own status quo?
- La DoubleJ
- Through joy and juicy colors, La DoubleJ has exploded with a vibrancy that few can master in the fashion world. Imbibed with loud colors and a positive energy that is palpable in their collections, La DoubleJ’s Resort 2020 featured extravagant garments in an opulent setting. Will La DoubleJ get brighter and bolder for Spring 2020?
- La Perla
- Founded in 1954, this luxurious lingerie brand takes fashion to new heights – especially when it comes to hemlines. Pairing lingerie with ready-to-wear, La Perla has been on the cutting edge of the sheer trend, and has absolutely played a part in the uptick in corsets and slips on the runway. Will La Perla be making the trends this season, or following them?
Trends from February MFW
Milan definitely delivered for Fall 2019, with opulent furs as a mainstay in the collections, something Fendi excelled at. Ermanno Scervino showed this off well with a beautiful cheetah printed fur coat. Greens of all shades were seen as well, and Vivetta paired green trousers with another Milan trend, the pussybow blouse! Milan showed off some sophisticated looks with the skirt suit, which Maryling fashioned beautifully in Barbie-esque style. The wrap dress was also wrapped around many a model in Milan, the easiest piece of fashion to sport.
Ah, France. From the Eiffel Tower in Paris, to the beaches of Nice, there’s nothing quite like France. Although Milan may be the go to spot for modern fashions, Paris is the home of fashions past. From Marie Antoinette to the Battle of Versailles (the second one, without all the pillaging), style was born in France. After all, Charles Frederick Worth (father of modern fashion) may have been English by birth, but he was a French designer. Will Paris Fashion Week live up to its rich history this season?
- Saint Laurent
- There is nothing I love more in life than a woman in a well-made suit. Who can I thank for that? The ever enchanting Yves Saint Laurent created Le Smoking in 1966, the first ladies suit. Although it wasn’t for everyone, it is surely the inspiration for many of the luxurious suits that many models have been sporting on the runway the past couple of seasons. Stylishly sexy and temptingly on trend, will Saint Laurent continue to change it up for Spring 2020?
- At the height of couture, Balmain has been a recognized name in fashion since Pierre Balmain created the brand in 1945. Although many have sat at the helm, few have managed to take the reigns as well as Pierre Balmain. Among them is Oscar de la Renta, who held the title of creative director for about 10 years. The definition of elegance, will Balmain live up to its legacy?
- Alexander McQueen
- Alexander McQueen has a long history of making waves. From the Jack the Ripper themed showing in 1992 to the English-infused ensembles of 2018, Alexander McQueen collections are unique, trend-setting, and at times, totally unwearable. The pieces that are, though, would leave anyone wanting more. Will Sarah Burton direct Alexander McQueen in a more wearable direction? And, for a brand this established, does it even matter?
- From the little black dress to tweed skirts suits, what isn’t there to thank Chanel for? Releasing women from the constraints of the corset and inviting them into far more comfortable garments made of jersey (again, thank you, Chanel!), this iconic French brand grew into a fashion powerhouse under the supervision of Karl Lagerfeld. Now, it’s Virginie Viard’s turn to take the lead, the first woman to lead the brand since Coco Chanel herself. Will Lagerfeld’s wit and whims translate through Viard’s vision, or will Chanel be taken in a totally new direction?
- Louis Vuitton
- Established as a luggage company in 1854, Louis Vuitton wasn’t always the purveyor of fantastic fashions that they are today. It wasn’t until Marc Jacobs took creative control in 1997 that LV began to produce styles that truly changed the fashion of the times. Although he left in 2013, Louis Vuitton remains at the forefront of fashion under Nicolas Ghesquière. How will Ghesquière reshape style for Spring 2020?
Trends from February PFW
For fall, Paris Fashion Week was classic and couture, as always. The pussybow made its way over from Milan, attached to a variety of garments. Capes were popular too, created beautifully by Elie Saab, who also utilized the sequin trend. Cerulean was another popular trend, a rich blue that shown bright on the runway. The cropped blazer came out in full force, along with forties fashion that was demonstrated beautifully by Mulberry. Heavy pleating was another major trend, tying pussybow blouses along with it into the forties fashion, which Balenciaga showed with ease.
What shows are you looking forward to this season? Everything Pyer Moss does is pure gold; I am hanging on his every thread! But, of course, I’m very curious about the futures of Fendi and Chanel! Let me know what you think in the comments!