Palazzo pants are comfortable, breezy and perfect for the summer seasons. Here at mood, we have a variety of jersey knit options that suit this pant design very well. This tutorial is simple easy and fast, great for beginner sewers!
2 yds fabric
1 yd: 1” elastic
Seam ripper ~ for mistakes
First set up your machine with matching thread and bobbin to accompany your fabric of choice. For jersey fabrics you must use an impromptu 2-surge stitch, or use a fancy zigzag. Below you can see examples of stitches able to use on jersey fabrics. (I used the one on the right side)
You are going to want to fold your fabric in half neatly to receive 2 panels front and back when cut. Place a pair of folded pants in half onto the fabric; insuring the crotch seam is at a strong point. It is very important you make your pattern with a curved pointed crotch seam. I chose a pair of palazzo pants to begin with, but if you do not already own a pair, you could use a pair of jeans. To create a palazzo effect, add width to your jean pattern, for a total of 12” width for your pant leg. After adding the width to your pattern add an additional inch for seam allowance to all sides. For my pattern I decided to add 4 “ to the top of my pattern to create a high wasted effect.
Now you are ready to cut! Be sure to cut on the fold to insure you end up with 2 separate identical panels. Pin these panels together and flip to the other side on top of your uncut fabric. Cut out pattern again facing the opposite direction. You will end up with another 2 panels. Now, you should have a total of 4 separate panels. Pin the identical panels’ right sides together.
Now you are ready to sew! Practice your stitch on a sample piece of jersey fabric to get used to the stitch you are going to use. (Straight stitch will not hold in a jersey knit fabric).
With the right sides pinned together, you are going to sew 2 identical panels together with a 1” seam allowance. Sew the outer leg pant seam from top to bottom. Be sure to back tack at the beginning of your stich and at the end. Do this for both pinned panels.
Now, sew a 1” seam allowance on the inside leg seam stopping at the crotch point, do not go all the way up. Back tack at the beginning and end of your stitch. Do this for both leg panels.
It is time to sew the crotch seam, the most important seam of a pant pattern. Take all pins out if you have any in your leg panels. Turn one leg right side out and leave one inside out. Place the right side out leg panel into the inside out leg panel. Now, with one inside the other, match the crotch seams together. So that your seam matches perfectly pin the crotch seam in place. Pin the remainder of the leg panels together. Sew a 1” seam to attach the 2 panels inside each other together. Be sure the inner leg seam for the best visual outcome.
Take the right side out pant leg out side of the other leg and insure your seams match. Make it so your pants are completely inside out.
Measure your waist for the elastic and subtract 2-3 inches only if you want your pants to be high wasted. If you would prefer your pants to sit on your hips only subtract about an inch or two at the most. Cut this elastic to your desired length.
Ease your elastic through the opening through the casing until the other side of the elastic meets the safety pin. Pull out both sides of the elastic (enough to fit under the sewing machine). Place one side of the elastic on top of the other end of the elastic. Sew a vertical line over top connecting the two ends of the elastic.
Once the elastic is sewn and completely inside the casing, sew the opening of your casing closed. Move the gathered fabric around evenly. At the 4 points where the side leg seams meet, front and back crotch seams meet sew a short vertical line connecting your casing to your elastic. This will insure your elastic wont twist when you put on your pants or wash them.
Try your pants on and decided the length you want them to be, If you have not already washed your fabric take inconsideration shrinking. Hem the bottoms of your pants to you desired length.
Congratulations on completing your palazzo pants. I hope you have found this tutorial easy and simple. This design is very versatile and can be altered to fit any size. Using jersey fabric is great to form around curves and very comfortable for pants. If you prefer a cool weather garment, using wool coating would be great for this design.