It seems Marie Antionette is continuing to affect fashion, centuries after the fact. Casual corsets have returned full swing in 2021 and we’re absolutely loving it. Mix the hyperfeminity of a corseted silhouette with an edgy long dress, skirt, or even an oversized button-down and straight-cut jeans!
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 1 yard Mood Exclusive Spectral Canopy Stretch Cotton Sateen
- 1 yard Night Sky Cotton Denim Twill with Give
- Optional: 1/2 yard Mattia Steel Blue Floral Embroidered Lace
- 2-3 pkgs Nickel Grommets
- 1 Dritz Magenta Grommet Plier Kit – 0.375″
- MDF214 – The Helen Castillo Corset Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
Cutting layout, cut your self fabric, lining fabric, and optional to cut your siri/buckram which will have the boning attached prior to sewing each of those pieces together (see video demonstration in later instruction).
Center front panel: cut on fold, all other panels follow grainline and instruction on fabrics
Using the cotton sateen for my self layer, cut panels will look like:
Using the denim for my lining layer, cut panels will look like:
Optional: Cut a layer of heavy-weight siri/buckram interfacing and attach rigilene boning to the following locations. Each of these panels must be fram stitched to the lining panels BEFORE those lining panels are joined to one another.
To attach rigilene boning, cut your bones ¼” shorter than the distance between steam allowances on your pattern and topstitch them in place along the outer edge perimeter of each bone.
I used my lace to overlay the scallop on my side front panel and reflected the lace to overlay both of my side front pieces. You can achieve this by laying your lace over your pattern piece (or cut fabric to see how you like the placement) and cut the reflected piece for the opposite side to keep it looking symmetrical.
Before attaching my panels to one another, I did a ‘frame stitch’ to join the lace to its corresponding panel. Using a running stitch (longest straight stitch setting on the machine)
Along the scallop edge, use a zigzag stitch and pivot the fabric as approaching each curve:
For the full panel lace overlay, pin around the perimeter and use the straight running stitch 1/8″ from the raw edge. I hold the lace in place as I guide it through the machine so it doesn’t shift out of place.
With lace attached to panels, you can join the center front to side front panels with 3/8″ seam allowance. Repeat for the other side front panel.
Now join all panels of the corset in the following order, repeat for your lining pieces.
Before pressing your seams, clip the curved seam allowances to within 1/8″ of your stitch line and press all seams open.
Optional: Spaghetti straps made of self fabric bias tape.
Using cord and 1” wide bias strips I attached the cord at the top and used a zipper foot to close my bias tape with the right sides facing. Then pull the cord to flip the bias strip right sides out. You can clip and remove the cord from inside your straps or leave it inside for stability. Your finished product is 1/8″ wide bias strap.
With seams pressed open, lay the self fabric corset and lining corset with the right sides together. I sandwiched my spaghetti straps in two locations in between my self and lining layer so once the top edge is sewn together the straps will be exposed on the right side of the garment. Strap placement depends on where you want them positioned, mine are 1-1/2″ from my first seam from center front joining to the last seam location of the back panel area. (See second photo)
Sew across the top edge with 3/8″ seam allowance, in bulk areas be sure to back-tack to reinforce.
Follow with an understitch by catching the seam allowances and LINING only from the inside of the garment with a 1/16” stitch, this will help keep the lining edge staying inside the garment.
Next, you will close both center back seams with 3/8″ seam allowance. If the center back panel overlaps each other you may want to trim this on either center back side so you have spacing for your lace-up closure.
After closing center back, trim your corners so once flipped right sides out the corners have a nice squared edge.
Press up the hem of your lining layer and self layer 3/8″ and use a ladder stitch to join the two by hand. Topstitching can look sloppy.
Once your corset is finished being hemmed you can press from the right side, layer a pressing cloth so the iron does no9t damage the fabric or make marks on your right side fabric.
Lastly add your grommets, depending on the look you want for the finished garment you can use different closures; chook and eye tape, rouleau loops, a separating zipper.
I used grommets and the grommet application tool, evenly placing the grommets and marking the center. Piercing the fabric with an awl and slashing about 1/8″ in either direction in a cross so the grommet could be pushed through. The hole cannot be too big, so start small or you will damage your corset.
I used double fold bias ribbon as my lace-up, it’s efficient and inexpensive/durable and comes in many different colors and thicknesses.