It seems Marie Antionette is continuing to affect fashion, centuries after the fact. Casual corsets have returned full swing in 2021 and we’re absolutely loving it. Mix the hyperfeminity of a corseted silhouette with an edgy long dress, skirt, or even an oversized button-down and straight-cut jeans!
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 1 yard Mood Exclusive Spectral Canopy Stretch Cotton Sateen
- 1 yard Night Sky Cotton Denim Twill with Give
- Optional: 1/2 yard Mattia Steel Blue Floral Embroidered Lace
- 2-3 pkgs Nickel Grommets
- 1 Dritz Magenta Grommet Plier Kit – 0.375″
- MDF214 – The Helen Castillo Corset Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
Cutting layout, cut your self fabric, lining fabric, and optional to cut your siri/buckram which will have the boning attached prior to sewing each of those pieces together (see video demonstration in later instruction).
Center front panel: cut on fold, all other panels follow grainline and instruction on fabrics
Using the cotton sateen for my self layer, cut panels will look like:
Using the denim for my lining layer, cut panels will look like:
Optional: Cut a layer of heavy-weight siri/buckram interfacing and attach rigilene boning to the following locations. Each of these panels must be fram stitched to the lining panels BEFORE those lining panels are joined to one another.
To attach rigilene boning, cut your bones ¼” shorter than the distance between steam allowances on your pattern and topstitch them in place along the outer edge perimeter of each bone.
I used my lace to overlay the scallop on my side front panel and reflected the lace to overlay both of my side front pieces. You can achieve this by laying your lace over your pattern piece (or cut fabric to see how you like the placement) and cut the reflected piece for the opposite side to keep it looking symmetrical.
Before attaching my panels to one another, I did a ‘frame stitch’ to join the lace to its corresponding panel. Using a running stitch (longest straight stitch setting on the machine)
Along the scallop edge, use a zigzag stitch and pivot the fabric as approaching each curve:
For the full panel lace overlay, pin around the perimeter and use the straight running stitch 1/8″ from the raw edge. I hold the lace in place as I guide it through the machine so it doesn’t shift out of place.
With lace attached to panels, you can join the center front to side front panels with 3/8″ seam allowance. Repeat for the other side front panel.
Now join all panels of the corset in the following order, repeat for your lining pieces.
Before pressing your seams, clip the curved seam allowances to within 1/8″ of your stitch line and press all seams open.
Optional: Spaghetti straps made of self fabric bias tape.
Using cord and 1” wide bias strips I attached the cord at the top and used a zipper foot to close my bias tape with the right sides facing. Then pull the cord to flip the bias strip right sides out. You can clip and remove the cord from inside your straps or leave it inside for stability. Your finished product is 1/8″ wide bias strap.
With seams pressed open, lay the self fabric corset and lining corset with the right sides together. I sandwiched my spaghetti straps in two locations in between my self and lining layer so once the top edge is sewn together the straps will be exposed on the right side of the garment. Strap placement depends on where you want them positioned, mine are 1-1/2″ from my first seam from center front joining to the last seam location of the back panel area. (See second photo)
Sew across the top edge with 3/8″ seam allowance, in bulk areas be sure to back-tack to reinforce.
Follow with an understitch by catching the seam allowances and LINING only from the inside of the garment with a 1/16” stitch, this will help keep the lining edge staying inside the garment.
Next, you will close both center back seams with 3/8″ seam allowance. If the center back panel overlaps each other you may want to trim this on either center back side so you have spacing for your lace-up closure.
After closing center back, trim your corners so once flipped right sides out the corners have a nice squared edge.
Press up the hem of your lining layer and self layer 3/8″ and use a ladder stitch to join the two by hand. Topstitching can look sloppy.
Once your corset is finished being hemmed you can press from the right side, layer a pressing cloth so the iron does no9t damage the fabric or make marks on your right side fabric.
Lastly add your grommets, depending on the look you want for the finished garment you can use different closures; chook and eye tape, rouleau loops, a separating zipper.
I used grommets and the grommet application tool, evenly placing the grommets and marking the center. Piercing the fabric with an awl and slashing about 1/8″ in either direction in a cross so the grommet could be pushed through. The hole cannot be too big, so start small or you will damage your corset.
I used double fold bias ribbon as my lace-up, it’s efficient and inexpensive/durable and comes in many different colors and thicknesses.
This is a great simple corset pattern. The fact it focuses mostly on the UPPER body really makes it closer to a stay, something we see in regency era clothing. Not trying to make historical accuracy claims here, just mentioning the similarity. 🙂 I would also suggest it might be fun to replace the grommets with HAND SEWN grommets, where you make the hole and then sew the circle around it. I suggest this because this would be a fairly loose fitted corset, as it does not have a lot of structural boning and on top of that does not have to curve as much as a full figured overcast corset. I actually think that sewn grommets on this corset would be really flattering and offer a more comfortable wear, especially as it might be worn as suggested against the skin.
BUT I LOVE THIS PATTERN!!! 🙂 🙂
You’re amazing! I’m so honored to have your feedback considering your knowledge on historic garments. Feel free to get in touch, I would love to chat about what you know and have a better sense of ‘corsetry’ versus ‘stays’ from your perspective. [email protected]
How long do you make the straps?
Me and my friend used this pattern to make a dress it’s turned out so well I love this pattern you should definitely check it out we only needed to make some little adjustments
thank you so much for the pattern I love it.
I just want to thank you for being more size-inclusive than most! I chopped off the top of this to make a corset belt and it’s beautiful! I couldn’t find size 24 anywhere else so I had to improvise. Its just really cool of you guys to do that 🙂
You’re so welcome – thank you for trying out our patterns! We also have a corset belt pattern in our Adonis Accessories, if that helps in the future!
thank you ~*+*+
Is seam allowance already included in the pattern, or do we need to add it?
Seam allowance is already included! 🙂
What a beautifully designed pattern! Helen makes it so easy to follow all her steps and instructions.
Thank you Mood for providing us The Best!
I love this! I have just finished making it and it’s great!
I accidentally printed it wrong so it came out massive on me, and I had to spend about a day tailoring it, but once I’d brought it back down to the size it was supposed to be, it fit so well! It’s just a nice fun top to wear too. I didn’t add any boning but having the video was helpful just to see the shape of the garment and how it comes together.
Thank you so much for this! I can’t wait to make another!
was looking for corset top ^.^
really like this
Hi, thank you so much for the great tutorial. Where can I find the instructions for where the boning should go? Perhaps I’m not reading properly, but all I see is ”
Optional: Cut a layer of heavy-weight siri/buckram interfacing and attach rigilene boning to the following locations” and then no locations mentioned. Please help!
Hi Natasha, you would add the boning to the seams of the corset for structure and support. Here is another corset pattern that explains the process as well.
Thank you for sending me a link for the free corset pattern. I opened the link however the link is for the step by step instruction on how to sew the corset. Please send me the correct link. Thank you.
Hi Alma! There should be a link in your email for a direct download, but if for some reason it’s not coming through, just email [email protected] and they’ll send it to you! 🙂
merci pour ce patron je l’ai fait hier et j’avoue que j’en suis complètement dingue je vais en faire plein dans différent style et matière c’est un top super mignon même quand on a des forme comme moi et en bustier sur une robe il seras magnifique que ce soit sur une robe de cocktail ou une robe pour le printemps ce modèle en particulier est un intemporel ! d’ici la fin du moi ma garde robe vas doubler lol