Helen Castillo x Mood Fabrics The Memoir Dress Free Sewing Pattern – View A

Step into a world where timeless elegance meets retro charm with our latest creation – a stunning drop waist dress that seamlessly blends coquettish allure with the iconic silhouettes of ’90s Prada fashion. Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, this semi A-line dress is a testament to sophistication, featuring princess seams, a curved bust panel, and a delightful puff sleeve adorned with a two-tier ruffle. The red poly-satin drapes beautifully, enhancing the silhouette with its fluidity and elegance. The polyester georgette fabric adds an element of delicacy and sheer elegance to the dress. Elevate your wardrobe with this statement piece, designed to turn heads and exude effortless glamour at every turn.

How to sew The Memoir Dress

Step 1

Taking Center front of Cup 2 and Side Front of Cup 2, attach by pinning top of seams together, bottom of seams together, and pinning in between. ½” seam allowance is included in all pattern pieces unless otherwise stated

Step 2

Clip the seam allowance to within ⅛” of the stitching line to allow for the curve to be pressed open, consider using a tailor ham.

Step 3

Next take your Side Front upper and lower pieces and join them:

Step 4

Taking the Center Front Lower and Side front panels, join at the princess seam

Step 5

Attach the Upper and Lower bodice panel along the curved seam

Step 6

Start by joining the notches along center front, the upper bodice seam and the under arm seam, ease the remainder of the curved seam with pins

Step 7

Sew the panels together keeping the lower bodice facing up, this will help when keeping your eased curved seam in control as you remove the pins while sewing

Step 8

Clip the curved seam allowance and gently press open using a Tailor Ham, it may look like there is puckering but once the seam allowance is clipped it will release some of the tension in this rounded seam

Step 9

Taking your Upper Back Side panel and Lower Back Side panel, join at the waist seam and press open

Step 10

Taking your sewn Side Back panels and Center Back panel, pin along the notches and sew to attach

Step 11

Clip seam allowance of the curved Side Back seam, and press open

Step 12

Taking Side Back panels and Front Panel, join along side seam, pin notches and press open

Step 13

Pin shoulder seams together and sew

Step 14

Repeat all the above steps for your lining and set aside

Step 15

Join Front Skirt and Back Skirt at side seams, press open

Step 16

Pin skirt to bottom edge of bodice and join, then clip where necessary or trim down seam allowance and press. Hem skirt with a baby rolled hem or serge, turn, and topstitch.

Step 17

Cut sleeves and close inseam, attach at armhole by setting in. On armhole of lining sew running stitch ½” from raw edge, this will be pressed under and slip stitched to hide our seam allowance (from setting in the sleeve to the armhole of the self-fabric of the bodice).

Step 18

Attach lining by matching up along the full length of the neckline

Step 19 

Optional understitch along neckline 

Step 20

Zipper down center back, zipper should end about 5” below the join to the bodice – this is a dropped waist bodice but you can choose your desired invisible zipper length and even consider adding length to the skirt or a different skirt style with future sewing projects using this modular pattern.

Stay tuned for additional views from Helen Castilo’s The Memoir Dress Free Sewing Pattern!