In the elegant wake of The Memoir Dress – View A, designer Helen Castillo has written her newest chapter: The Memoir Dress View B weaves a narrative of grace and beauty, this time combining the curved bust panel and princess seams with an elongated skirt and flattering back slit. A long silhouette is mature in nature—calling for those evenings when the stars couldn’t be shining any brighter and the hors d’oeuvres couldn’t be more delicious—while the spring-green poly-satin gives your personality a voice.
The spaghetti straps, grommet closures, and tie-up back are feminine and sultry; however, you can choose to go strapless or use a zipper, if desired. Remember, this is your style story. Let’s find out how The Memoir Dress free sewing pattern – View B can help you tell it.
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 3 yards of Gavia Peridot Premium Polyester Satin
- 1.5 yards of Mimosa Peridot Polyester Double Georgette
- 1 spool of Spring Green 100m Gutermann Sew All Thread
- 1 set of Dritz Large Nickel Eyelets Kit Size 1/4 – 12ct
- 2 yards of Italian Navy Floral Jacquard Ribbon
- MDF364 – The Memoir Dress – View B Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
How to Sew The Memoir Dress – View B
Step 1
Taking Center Front Upper Panel and joining the Center Front Lower, align notches. Sew a curved seam.
Step 2
Clip seam allowance to release the curve. Cut to about 1/16” of the stitching line and press open.
Step 3
With Side Upper Panel and Side Lower Panels, join at seam and press open.
Step 4
Next, align front princess seams and join Side Front Panel to Center Front Panel, making sure to align the seam of the underbust area as a ‘notch’.
Step 5
Picture below is your Side Front Panel #2, seen in the middle.
Step 6
Taking your Side Front Panel 2, align notches with your Front Panel section and sew.
I prefer to sew my front and back panels separately before attaching them at the side seam as it leaves an opportunity to make any alterations.
Step 7
Press open all sewn seams before joining the front and back at the side seam. Here, you could consider a running-stitch if you would like to try it on, then go back with a regular stitch length once you are satisfied with the fit.
Repeat all steps for a set of lining pieces; with right sides facing, match up each of your seams as ‘notches’ and attach at the neckline. Clip to release seam allowance in any curved areas and do an understitch to secure that beautiful top edge!
Spaghetti straps would be sandwiched between your self and lining layers before attaching those layers by machine in the step above:
Optional: Add boning to your lining set. If you opt out of boning in the structure, you can consider adding spaghetti straps for extra support!
For center back closure you can consider a separating zipper, grommets, buttons and loops…
Grommet closure:
Step 1
For the center back, I opted for grommets to close the right sides together. They are about 4” across the hem edge to establish a clean finish below my bottom grommet and in that corner edge of the bodice.
Step 2
Once the grommets are marked and secured (you can choose as little or as many grommets as it will create a different look for this piece) you can finish your hem by turning up at the iron and slip stitching or using fusible webbing. This Polyester Satin Gavia is very forgiving with pressing!
Skirt Sewing Instructions:
Step 1
Taking your two Front Panels, mark and sew your notches. There is a center front seam that can be sewn at this time as well.
Step 2
Repeat for the back panels but do not close the center back seam as it will house the zipper closure later.
Darts in the back of a garment for pants and skirts are typically longer than the front. In case you mix up front and back panels, this is an easy way to distinguish which side you are working on.
Step 3
Press open your seams at Center Front and press your darts toward the side seam. There is no right or wrong direction for pressing darts—toward the side seam creates less bulk at the front of the garment.
Step 4
Join the side seams by pinning the right sides together.
Step 5
Take double fold bias tape and secure the top edge/waist edge of the skirt. Sew 1 row of stitching to secure the tape about 1/16-1/18” away from the open fold. Turn ribbon down to the right side of the skirt and stitch again to secure it in place.
Step 6
Add an invisible zipper at the center back to the desired stopping length. This should typically be no shorter than 7”-9” below natural waist as this is about the widest point of the hip drop.
Step 7
Hem to the desired length using a baby hem or fusible wedding hem tape.
Stay tuned for additional views from Helen Castillo’s The Memoir Dress Free Sewing Pattern!
I never have any reason to wear an elegant gown like this. But just to own a Helen Castillo pattern would be so special. Can we expect more designs from her?
Im happy that you guys started doing patterns again! I check your page few times a week when Im at work and you didnt add any for two months so I thought you quit doing patterns. So Im happy that free patterns are back. I already sew about five pieces of clothes from your patterns. Thank you for your work 🙂
Hey, is it possible to get this PDF with layers so I can print the size I need? I really dont want to waste paper, please.
Hello,
Thank you for visiting and downloading from Mood Sewciety!
In order to keep our free sewing patterns free, we are exclusively offering an A4-Letter size version that includes all sizes.
We appreciate your request and will keep it in mind for future patterns.
Happy Sewing!
The MoodSewciety Team
Love this pattern
Lindo
I’d love to make this! i’m having a hard time to cut the pattern of my size. If only i can disable other sizes in adobe but it has password. Please help me, Thank you!
Hello,
Thank you for visiting and downloading from Mood Sewciety!
In order to keep our free sewing patterns free, we are exclusively offering an A4-Letter size version that includes all sizes. Additionally, at this time, we do not offer passwords for unlocking our patterns.
We appreciate your request and will keep it in mind for future patterns.
Happy Sewing!
The MoodSewciety Team
Oo
Can i order this pattern…i love this dress
Hi! Can I use a zipper instead of grommets on the top ?
Yes, this can be finished with any closure you’d like!