Prepare the guest list, ring the florist, and locate the tablecloths—a new free sewing pattern from designer Helen Castillo demands an occasion to showcase its charm! In her exploration of corset tops and princess seams, Castillo unveils the third variation in her growing anthology of dresses; this new chapter pairs the flattering bodice with a flared mini skirt, bow, and off-the-shoulder neckline as an ode to innocence and playful femininity, just in time for spring.
With your needle the pen and this pink poly-satin and poly-georgette the paper, The Memoir Dress free sewing pattern – View C puts the authorship squarely in your hands. Maybe you loved the eyelet and tie-up back from View B; or perhaps the puffed, two-tiered sleeves from View A speak more to your personality. Creative license is encouraged—nay, lauded—so listen to the designer in you as you read through the free sewing pattern download below!
P.S. If you’ve been enjoying the content by our resident celebrity designer, check out our YouTube channel for videos with Helen Castillo!
Purchase Products Used Below:
- 2.5-3 yards of Gavia Candy Pink Premium Polyester Satin
- 1.5-2 yards of Mimosa Candy Pink Polyester Double Georgette
- 1 spool of Bubble Gum 100m Gutermann Sew All Thread
- 1 Bubblegum 24″ Invisible Zipper
Alternative Recommended Fabrics:
How to Sew the Memoir Dress – View C
Step 1
Taking Front Upper panel, add in your running stitch between notches using the longest stitch setting on your machine.
Step 2
Pull stitching to gather between notches.
Step 3
Join Side Back and Center Back panels at the princess seam, being sure to clip after sewing any clipped seam allowance before pressing them open.
Step 4
Join side seams and shoulder panels to create your full upper bodice.
Step 5
Lay out all lower bodice panels and join to create the full section. These will join to the bottom edge of the upper bodice. You can attach them as a full bodice piece now or after you’ve attached the skirt.
For Lower Bodice panels, join all seams and press open.
Repeat all these steps for the lining of the upper and lower bodice. They can be joined at this point and set aside (optional to line your skirt):
Though I love the look of the pivot where the skirt meets the bodice at the center front, it is a bit more advanced. On page C5 and C6, you will find a curved option as well so you can alter this pattern depending on your skill level!
Skirt
Step 1
Sew the side seams of the front and back panels of the skirt before joining to bodice. Press side seams open.
Step 2
Join the skirt to the bottom edge of the bodice, making sure to pivot where the center front joins.
Pro tip: consider sewing from center back to the pivot, then pivot the fabric and continue the remainder of the seam.
Step 3
Clip your seam allowance at the center front point same as with a sharp corner seam allowance, press open.
Step 4
Attach skirt/lower bodice to upper bodice panel aligning at center front. All corresponding seams will serve as notches.
Step 5
Gently clip any curved seam allowances and press open using a Tailor Ham, being sure not to crease on the right side of the fabric.
Sleeves:
Step 1
Join sleeve inseams and set aside.
Step 2
Pin lining to self bodice right sides together. Sew and clip seam allowances in any curved areas.
Step 3
With both seam allowances toward the lining bodice, stitch ⅛” from the seam to create an understitch.
Step 4
Insert sleeve to either armhole, making sure to align front and back notches. On lining armholes, do a running stitch ½” from the raw edge. This will serve as a guide for pressing the seam allowance toward the wrong side. Then, slip stitch to clean finish the armholes. Hem sleeve desired amount.
See running stitch on lining armhole:
Step 5
Press along the stitch line to the wrong side of the lining sleeve. Add slip stitch by hand:
Step 6
Insert the zipper and clean finish your lining side to the zipper as well. Clip at the top of the zipper on an angle to reduce the seam allowance and flip the garment to the right side. Turn up the hem edge of the lining if that is the bottom edge of your lining layer so it is clean on the inside of the zipper.
Optional: add hook and eye by hand to the top end of the zipper on the right side of the garment.
Step 7
Hem your skirt with a ⅛” baby hem or small serge, turn, and topstitch.
Our hope is that Helen’s growing anthology of reimagined dresses inspires you to look at your old and new sewing projects with a fresh perspective and creativity to make them more you.
Stay tuned for additional views from Helen Castillo’s The Memoir Dress Free Sewing Pattern!
Lovely!
Excelente artículo
hey Hellen! Could I use new Mood Exclusive Tamara Persimmon Viscose and Linen Woven?
Hi Meghan! You can use any woven option for this pattern, consider the weight to be similar to our Gavia Polyester Satin.
Hola, es espectacular este vestido, pero no me descarga el patron 🙁 no se porque, me llega el link al correo pero no descarga, alguien me lo podría compartir?
Hola, envíe un correo electrónico a info@moodfabrics.com si tiene algún problema con la descarga de patrones.
I need help , Is suede fabric suitable for this project???
Hi there, great question! We wouldn’t necessarily recommend suede fabric for this pattern. If you were to try it out, the gathering at the cups would need to be changed to darts, as suede isn’t going to gather in such a way needed for the Memoir Dress. On the other hand, velvet fabric would be an alternative to suede since the texture would be similar. If you try out the suede or velvet, let us know! Happy Sewing 🙂
I’m a big Fan of Helen and her work so I need to make her dress now
Excelente página le sacaré el mayor provecho gracias
Excelente página
Tried to print it, but it needs a password, where do I find it?
Hello,
Thank you for visiting and downloading from Mood Sewciety!
In order to keep our free sewing patterns free, we are exclusively offering an A4-Letter size version that includes all sizes. Additionally, at this time, we do not offer passwords for unlocking our patterns.
Happy Sewing!
The MoodSewciety Team
Love it
Amei o modelito super lindo
Baixei o molde vou usar para costurar um vestidinho cor rosa camarão
I need help , Is suede fabric suitable for this project???
We wouldn’t necessarily recommend suede fabric for this pattern. If you were to try it out, the gathering at the cups would need to be changed to darts, as suede isn’t going to gather. On the other hand, velvet fabric would be an alternative to suede since the texture would be similar.