How to Add a Lapel to the Poppy Dress - Free Sewing Pattern

Posted on December 18, 2020 by Lee Norris

Every year, we take a look at our most downloaded free sewing pattern and remake it for the winter season. This year, I was a bit hard pressed to revamp our top pattern. Originally designed to be thrown on over a swimsuit or (at the very least) paired with some vibrant sunshine, I was a bit worried that I'd be unable to make a version of the Poppy worthy of Winter 2020/2021, where we're all battling a worldwide pandemic in addition to the dropping temperatures. With just a bit of altering though, the Poppy Dress was transformed into a stunning winter coat, with a sharp lapel and optional long sleeves. Let's take a look at how to alter Mood's free pattern to create this winter garment!


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All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.

Mood Sewing Pattern Size Chart

1. Take a straight edge and draw a line on the BODICE FRONT of your Poppy Dress, from notch to notch where you'd usually fold the fabric back to form the lapel. Cut along this line, cutting off the fold-back portion.

2. Print out the FRONT LAPEL of the Fig Dress and draw a line straight down from where the lapel hits the HPS on the Fig. Cut and place the lapel piece atop your Poppy BODICE FRONT. The two pieces should align at the HPS and at the waist notch.

3. Measure at mark 2" from the HPS and waist notch. Use a French curve to connect the two points. This will mark your lapel facing.

4. Add 1/2" seam allowance, which marks the cut line for your lapel facing and copy over the grainline from the original Poppy BODICE FRONT.

Cut 2 of the new BODICE FRONT, as well as two new LAPEL FACINGS. Also, cut 2 of the original Fig COLLAR. If you'd like to add some longer sleeves to your new garment, try the lower sleeves from the Willow Cardigan!

How to Add a Lapel to the Poppy Dress - Free Sewing Pattern - Mood Sewciety
Home Dress Patterns How to Add a Lapel to the Poppy Dress – Free Sewing Pattern