How to Add Volume to the Bottom of a Sleeve - Free Pattern Hack

Posted on June 4, 2021 by Greg Dugdale

Wanting to spice up your wardrobe with a chic new top? The Wilder top is an easy sew and an easy style! It’s perfect for that on-the-go look; simply throw it on over a pair of jeans or use yours as a beach cover-up. Today's version was created using a double cotton gauze, but you can also try a lightweight cotton voile, linen, or poplin. If you want to be a little scandalous with the sheer trend, you can also use an organza! Let's take a look at how you can alter this already-easy pattern to have a bit more volume at the wrists.

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All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.

Mood Sewing Pattern Size Chart

On this pattern, the sleeve didn’t have as much volume as I wanted, so I used the slash and spread method to add some. This method is often used to decrease or increase volume in a pattern. 

  1. Get a piece of pattern paper that is bigger than your pattern 
  2. On your sleeve, measure from your hemline to almost the armpit. Then mark both sides with a horizontal line at the top;  this should be parallel to your hemline.
  3. Connecting those two lines, draw a light straight across your sleeve
  4. Measure the entire distance of the sleeve, divide it in half and mark it. From the middle, measure two more dots on either side of your center line for a total amount of five dots. 
  5. From all your points, draw lines straight down to the bottom hemline. 
  6. Cut straight across the top of the line so your sleeve is separated from your pattern 
  7. Starting at the bottom, cut straight up on those lines leaving a ¼" or so left connected.
  8. Tape your top corners and start spreading. One this pattern alteration, the distance between the spreads were each 3.5". 
  9. Redraw your new cut lines using a straight edge and French curve.
  10. Sew your new Wilder Top pattern using the same instructions as the original!

How to Add Volume to the Bottom of a Sleeve - Free Pattern Hack - Mood Sewciety
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