Seasons seem to be irrelevant in 2020, with the vibrant primary colors often associated with spring and summer transitioning into the fall with just as much popularity. There appears to be a special focus on cheery yellows, and since we can all use an uptick in vibes, I’m here for it!
Today’s project features a redux of our free Ivy Trench sewing pattern, which I lengthened by about 4″ along the skirt. I also skipped the buttons to make it an easy thrown-on-and-belt fit. The bolero didn’t need any alterations, but I did choose a fun print for the lining in order to make it reversible on those non-rainy days.
Looking to make your own trench, but not sure where to start? Let’s take a look at some fabrics and linings that are ideal for trench coats!
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 4 yards Sunshine Yellow Water-Resistant Polyester Twill
- 4 yards Mood Exclusive Day in Tunisia Yellow Cotton Poplin
- 1 Black Laquered Leather Buckle – 1.5″ x 1″
- Optional to Button Bolero to Coat: 3 Italian Black 2-Hole Plastic Buttons – 38L/24mm
- MDF194 – The Ivy Trench Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
Alternative Recommended Fabrics:
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
Twill
When looking to sew a classic trench coat, you’ll want to look at twill fabrics. Most commonly, you’ll find that a lot of them are specifically cotton twill, which are tightly woven and sturdy, but still drape beautifully. Mood’s line of organic cotton twill lend themselves well to jackets and coats, particularly trenches! They also come in the trench coat staple shades of khaki and black.
Water Repellent Fabrics
Pre-treated fabrics that already repel water are perfect for jackets! Mood has a variety, including a twill version that I used for the yellow trench shown above. It’s smooth, sews like a dream, and still drapes like a standard twill without being super noisy when being worn.
You can also find water repellent canvas, taslan, and even some reflective options!
Unconventional Fabrics for Trench Coats
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Brocade & Jacquard
- Pros: These fabrics drip luxury and they tend to drape like a dream. Many feature vibrant, metallic designs and embroidery.
- Cons: Some are tricky to wash, which may mean your trench will be a ‘dry clean only’ situation.
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Faux Leather & Vinyl
- Pros: Leather coats and jackets are a non-stop trend, and you can find faux leather in every color imaginable these days.
- Cons: Some of these options can be on the stiffer side; I’d recommend getting some swatches so you can stick to a softer faux leather or vinyl for your jacket.
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Sateen
- Pros: So. Many. Prints! Who doesn’t love a bold statement coat?
- Cons: Sateen is prone to wrinkling, so this may become a jacket just for walking through the park.
16 comments
Is the lining fabric the same as the bolero? A couple of weeks ago I purchased 4 yds of the bolero print. If you used the same fabric for the lining I might do the same.
Hi Lynda! Yes, the print used on the bolero is also the lining in the main jacket. 🙂
Thanks for the download. Are there any instructions available? The download only has the pattern pieces themselves.
Hi there! You can find the instructions for the Ivy Trench here. 🙂
Is there more detailed step by step instructions for beginners? Thank you 🙂
Hi Sarah! Instructions for the Ivy Trench can be found here. 🙂
fall is on its way
How does the trench hang without the waist belt? Is it a pretty straight cut or is it that A-line cut without the belt too? (hope that makes sense, I’m not too familiar with sewing vernacular)
Hi Nadezhda! The belt definitely helps to cinch the waist, but the pattern is cut with that a-line shape, so you’ll have it without the belt as well. 🙂
I love this pattern. Is the lining included in your recommended 4 yards?
Hi there! You’ll need 4 yards for the shell and 4 yards for your lining. 🙂
I could see making this as a coat dress. You could make several of the detachable bolero in different fabrics for more outfits!
The bolero here is different than the Ivy Trench one, how many inches did you extend it?
Hi, Sam! I didn’t alter the bolero on this. 🙂
Did you use the pattern for the Ivy Trench? The bolero in the ivy trench stops at the princess seam, this one goes all the way into the collar.
It may just be a bit of an optical illusion since this version doesn’t have the buttons – the lapel is folded back further than the original because of that.