Tools Used:
- Pattern Paper
- French Curve
- Pencil
- Eraser
- Clear Ruler
Directions:
1. Mark Line A-B as your HPS to Waist measurement
2. From Point A create Line A-C using Shoulder Length measurement + ½”
3. From Point C drop 2” to create line C-D
4. Line D-E will be your Shoulder Length + ½”
5. From Point B create Point F as length of Center Back measurement
6. Square ½” out at Point F
7. Joining Point F to Point E using Hip Curve create back neckline
8. Point G is the midpoint measurement of Line F-B, drop an additional 1-1/4” down and mark as G
9. From Point G create Line G-H using half your Back Bust measurement + ½”
10. Point I is midpoint of Line F-G
11. From Point I create line I-J using across back measurement minus ½”
12. From Point G create Point K at using ½ across back measurement
13. From Point K draw ½” line on diagonal to create Point L
14. Use Hip Curve to create armhole by connecting Point D to Point J to Point L to Point H
15. From Point B using ½ Back Waist measurement plus 1-3/4” create Line B-M
16. Point N is at midpoint of Line G-K
17. Meaure Line G-N and subtract ¾” to create Point O which is your first dart leg closest to Point B
18. Point P is 1-1/2” away from Point O
19. Join Point H to Point M for Side Length, if your Side Length measurement is longer, extend Point M and blend new Side Length Point M to Point P using Hip Curve
20. Create Dart Legs by connecting Point P to Point N and Point O to Point N
21. Find midpoint of Shoulder Length Line D-E join this mark to Point N, from shoulder midpoint extend that mark 1/2” up, join midpoint of Line D-E to Point N using your ruler
22. Create Shoulder Dart marking 3” below new Shoulder center point extension, to create Vanishing Point of Dart
23. Out ¼” on either side of center point of dart draw extension
24. Join each Dart Leg to the Vanishing Point
25. Draw new shoulder seam line by connecting Point D to dart leg and Point E to corresponding dart leg
26. Add seam allowances
4 comments
I’m finding Line F-E seems really short and oddly shaped. It is almost diagonal. What could I be doing wrong?
Should Line A-C should be half of the across back measurement + 1/2″? not shoulder length? (similar to Front Bodice where Line A-C will be half of your across chest measurement +3/8”)
Perfectly explained back bodice sloper tutorial! I’m new to pattern drafting and I can easily understand this tutorial! Thank you so much Helen!
#11 – Isn’t that supposed to be half of the cross back measurement, plus 1/2″? (newbie here)