These instructions are detailing how to ‘draft’ (aka pattern make) a sleeve sloper. This tutorial will rely on having already made the front bodice and back bodice sloper, as previously instructed, based on your required measurements.

Tools Needed:

•   Pattern paper
•   French Curve
•   Pencil
•   Eraser
•   Ruler C-thru 18”
•   Tape measure 
•   Tracing Wheel

Directions:

1.  Take your Sleeve length measurement from your shoulder ridge to wrist (desired length)

2. Take your Bicep circumference measurement which is just a few inches below your armpit, widest point of your bicep that should be parallel to the underarm location of your bodice (where your side seam begins)

3. Take your widest point of your Hand measurement, as the opening of your sleeve (when using woven fabric which will not stretch) this should be the opening for your wrist of your sleeve so your hand can fit through the wrist opening

• *You can measure the height of your High Point Shoulder to your underarm at the side seam and that will represent your sleeve cap height, this will be referenced later

4. Fold paper in half lengthwise, use at least 4” added to all of your measurements worth of paper – better to have more paper available at least a yard to avoid issues when drafting your measurements

5. This fold line will represent your center of your sleeve, the sleeve length line

6. Plot a Line A-B as your sleeve length, leaving a least one inch extra on top and below that measurement

7. Measure armhole depth on Front Sloper (reference video for location of where this measurement is taken) to find the exact cap height

• This is your shoulder ridge to bicep measurement length (‘cap height’)

8. From Point A drop your sleeve cap length measurement to become Point C 

9.  Point C will represent the center of your Bicep Line

10. On either side of Point C draw equal halves of your Bicep measurement to create the Bicep line as Line D-E

11. At Point B you will place your wrist circumference measurement, using the Fold Line as your center line and placing half of the measurement equally on either side of the Fold Line

12. From Point D and Point E extend the line from your wrist so it is going up to the height of the top of your sleeve cap

13. Fold the sleeve alone the center Fold Line and fold again so that there are ‘quarter’ divided creases on your pattern, aligning them with those extended lines from Point E and Point D

14. The left side of your pattern is the BACK of the sleeve, the right side is the FRONT – label as such

15. Draw over the quarter fold line with a dashed line with your pencil up the equal height of the sleeve cap

16. Measure from bicep line on the ‘quarter fold line’ at half the sleeve cap height + ¾” and mark

17. Measure in 1/4” from Bicep point D and mark and ¼” from sleeve cap (reference video) at top and mark

18. Connect point D on bicep line to NOTCH point on the ‘quarter fold’ crease line, connect point on quarter folded line to the Sleeve Cap ¼” extension you just drew with a dotted line

19. Using French Curve or Sleigh Ruler, reference video for position of marking these slopes for the sleeve cap, this will be your Sleeve Cap seam 

• Use your Tracing Wheel to outline this new Sleeve Cap, we want to transfer this outline through to the other side of the pattern paper

20. Unfold paper and shape the outline Front of the Sleeve Cap 

21. At the ‘quarter’ crease line on either side of that notch you will mark ½” on either side, and from NOTCH mark ¼” inside sleeve cap to create new slope for FRONT sleeve cap

22. Blend with French Curve

23. Add Seam Allowances:

• ½” to either side of the Sleeve Length
• ½” to Sleeve Cap
• 1” to Hem (Added below wrist line)