Shedding your winter wardrobe for breezy summer garments should not leave you pocketless. Stylish skirts often leave you with no place to put your phone, wallet or lipstick, ‘sew’ whats a girl to do you ask? Keep up with the boys and try this pocketed paper bag skirt on for size.
- 1.5 yards Main body fabric
- 1.5 yards Lining Fabric
- 1 yard of 1″ Elastic
- Skirt Pocket
- L Square
- Pinking Shears
- Seam Gauge
- Dressmaker pins
- Mood Tape Measure
- Circumference Mood Tape Measure
- Blanket Pins
- Seam Ripper
Step 1: Decide on the dimensions of your skirt. Measure your waist and the length that you would like for the skirt. I went with 23” by 23” by coincidence since my waist is 27 ½” and I want a skirt that is about 20” long. You will end up cutting your width a few inches shorter than your actual waist.
Step 2: First I doubled my lining fabric and marked the dimensions 23″ by 23″ with an L Square. After cutting the lining, I used one of the lining pieces as a pattern for my printed fabric; if you have a printed fabric, match the pattern as I did by pinning it. Once you are finished cutting your fabric, you will have four squares; 2 lining pieces and 2 main pieces.
Step 3: Pin the lining pieces right sides together and sew up the side seams at 1/2″ seam allowance. Trim the seams with pinking shears and then press them out.
Step 4: Now you will use the Skirt Pocket that I created here, and cut out four pieces. I chose to use my lining fabric so that there is a contrast in the pocket, however if you want your pockets to remain inconspicuous than use the same fabric as your print. Pin the pocket 8 1/2″ inches from the top of your skirt (Triple check this!), with the face up that you want to see when you reach into it while wearing. Make sure that the top of your pocket is facing the top of your skirt. Sew pockets in place with 1/4″ seam allowance; backstitching will make the pocket sturdier. Repeat for both front and back “panel” and then press out.
Step 5: After pressing the pockets out, lay the front and back panel right sides together and sew the side seams with ½” allowance. Carefully maneuver around the pockets, you may also want to reinforce the pockets with an overlocking stitch. Similarly to the lining, you will now trim the seams aside from the pockets, with pinking shears to keep them from fraying, then press them out.
Step 6: Place the lining inside the skirt with right sides together (technically the skirt is still inside out at this point) and match the seams of the lining with the skirt, pin the garment in the side seams as well as front and back. Now sew ½” around the top of the skirt, making sure the seams remain neat and pressed. Flip skirt right side out and press.
Step 7: To create the casing for the elastic, you will pin a line 2” below the top of your skirt and sew around the entire circumference keeping parallel to the top. Next you will repeat this step an 1 ¼” below your existing line, but keep an opening to insert your elastic. Cut your elastic so that it is a few inches smaller than your waist and insert it into your casing, pin the ends together and sew. Situate the elastic so that it lays flat and close the casing. Note: The tighter your elastic, the more gathered and ruffled the top will be.
Step 8: Try on your skirt and decided how long you want the hem. To create the hem, fold the fabric under ¼” and press very firmly so you have a crisp edge. Fold the fabric ¼” again and then sew very neatly down your hem. Repeat the previous steps for the lining ensuring that it will be 1” shorter than the outside of your skirt. I decided to machine stitch the lining and hand sew the hem for the face of the fabric.
Try it on!