Motorcycle jackets are one of those forever in-style pieces. Chances are, most fashion brands are going to have at least one variation on the motorcycle jacket at any given time. If you’re looking for a nice transitional outerwear piece for those chilly spring evenings, look no further than our Calypso jacket. I’d love to see this in a heavyweight linen, a ponte knit, or a fun printed cotton sateen. When cropped and sewn with the Farbe Aqua Clear Tinted Vinyl, it transforms into an eye catching rain jacket, perfect for light spring showers, that’s a surefire way to make a bold and unforgettable statement.
I omitted the lining, belt, belt loops, and pockets.
A few things before you get started:
- Print out the following pages: 2-7, 12-16, 22-26, 28-31, 38-41, 32-36, 42
- This jacket didn’t need a lining, so I just cut two of each piece.
- If you want to include the belt, you also need to print pages 43-51
- This material sticks to itself, which is great because you don’t need to use pins or clips (which can damage the material), but it also takes quite a bit of patience because it sticks to itself and other things. You may find that you need to sew a few sections a little differently than you’re used to.
How to sew the jacket:
1. Sew up the center back (CB) on the jacket. Trim the seam allowance (SA), fold to one side, and sew a welt seam.
2. Similarly, sew the side front to the center front. Finish with a welt seam. Repeat on the other side.
Note: before we assemble the back to the sides & front, we need to work on the sleeves.
3. Sew the upper sleeve to the lower sleeve, at the longest seam (this is the back seam). Trim SA, and finish with a welt seam.
Note: You’ll only be able to do this on one seam, before you close up the sleeve with that second seam. I chose the back seam, since it’ll need extra reinforcement with the elbow. Just make sure you choose the same seam for both sleeves!
4. Lay the sleeve flat, and hem the cuff. I added an extra row of topstitching for detail.
5. Fold the sleeve right sides together, and sew the remaining seam. Turn right side out. This will take some wrestling but you can do it!
6. Sew the jacket together at the shoulder seams. Trim SA, then finish with a welt seam.
Note: If you’re using a different fabric, sew up your side seams and then set your sleeves in as you normally would. With this material, we’ve got to do things a little differently.
7. With the sides of the jacket still unsewn, set the sleeve in. Sew as much as you can, until you need to sew the side seam of the jacket. You might have to wrestle with the material once you get to the armpit. Just be patient and go slow!
8. Sew your two collar pieces along the top and side edges. Trim SA and clip corners, then turn right side out and topstitch.
9. Right sides together, sew the collar to the jacket, then welt stitch the SA to the jacket.
10. Fold the top lapel section of the center jacket pieces down, then sew to finish the edge.
11. Repeat on the center front edge that your zipper isn’t being sewn to (the one that will be on the inside of the jacket once it’s sewn up).
12. Hem the jacket, using decorative top stitching for extra detail.
13. Cut your zipper to size, and sew one side to the front vertical edge. Because I had to cut the top of the zipper, I folded it to the other side and stitched it down.
14. With the other side of the zipper, sew it to the seam where the center front and center side meet. I used some glue to prevent the cut zipper from fraying. You could also sew a strip of bias tape or the self fabric to cover up the raw edge.
15. Put the nail heads on the jacket.