There are many different types of sequin fabrics. Some fabrics include overlapped sequins, scattered sequins, big sequins on a mesh backing, stretch sequin fabrics and beaded/sequined combinations. All of these variations are elegant, fun, and take a lot of patience to work with.
When choosing a project for sequins, make sure there are minimal seams. The fewer seams there are, the less time you’ll spend ripping sequins out of the seam allowance.
Some sequin fabrics may be itchy/scratchy. If that’s the case, choose a lining that is thin and breathable. If you have a stretch mesh fabric, the lining should be stretch as well.
Purchase Materials Used Below:
Prepping Your Pattern
- Lay your fabric out and make sure all your sequins are going in the right direction.
- If you have pattern pieces that need to be placed on the fold, pin them in place. If they are not on the fold, cut each piece one by one (flipping the pattern over to get your two mirrored pieces).
- Instead of pinning you can use weights as well or hand baste the outline of your pattern, but pinning is my preferred method.
- When cutting your sequins, use old scissors.
- Take your seam ripper out, remove all sequins from the seam allowance that your pattern calls for.
*Note: If the sequins go in one direction, make sure all the sequins are going the same way before cutting.
Marking Your Fabric
Use pins to indicate your notches instead of cutting into the fabric.
What Needle Should You Use?
Use a universal needle or if you are sewing straight through the sequins use a jeans needle. (when sewing over the sequins be careful because the needle could break and fly into your eye) If you have a stretch sequin fabric, I would use a ballpoint needle.
For woven sequin fabrics, use a normal 2.5-3 stitch length. If you are sewing a knit, I would use a zig-zag stitch or a serger if you have one. Only use a serger if all of your sequins are removed from the seam allowance. Always test a scrap of fabric before sewing.
When sewing your fabric, use pins or hand sew all your pieces and then sew. It’s up to you which method works best!
Still Seeing Your Base Fabric?
If you are still seeing your base fabric at the seams after you’ve sewn, adjust the seam or hand sew/tack more sequins on to complete the area.
Pressing Your Fabric
There is no pressing involved. DO NOT IRON; you will ruin your project, iron, and sequins.
Seam Ripping Sequins
Be gentle when you are ripping out the sequins. If you aren’t gentle, you could pierce holes through the fabric. As you are ripping out the sequins, save some of the sequins as extras just in case you need to retouch your finalized garment.