How to Sew a Puffer Coat Using a Free Sewing Pattern

Posted on September 17, 2021 by Helen Castillo

The puffer coat trend we're seeing this fall is a personal favorite, seeing as it's the closest we can get to bringing our duvet with us when it's too cold to get out of bed. They're comfy, stylish, and can be worked into virtually any wardrobe. Whether you want to join in on the vibrant primary color trend or you'd prefer to stay with a classic black, Mood has the outerwear fabric for you. Let's take a look at how we can take a regular coat pattern and transform it into a puffy dream coat!

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All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.

Mood Sewing Pattern Size Chart

Start by tracing your pattern so you have a mirrored set of Back and Front pieces, my method of quilting is by using the layer of paper as my template for my quilted design.

The pattern paper is lighter weight than printer paper and will become perforated as you sew on that layer. This allows for the stitch line to act as a tear-away, fold along the stitch line and tear the paper front each section after you complete each of your quilted rows. See layering instructions to follow:

Taking my Front pieces, measuring distances from the hem, and ending out at the sleeve edge, I created the design for my quilted sections using the L-square, clear ruler, and hip curve.

You can create any layout for your quilting that you desire. In this case, we are using poly-fill loose batting for each section. I squared each of my quilted lines by aligning my ruler perpendicular to the center front and after creating the design. I measured and mimicked these lines onto my Back paper patterns.

Be sure that before you begin your SELF-fabric quilted pieces, cut your lining Front and Back panels. These paper pattern pieces being used for your quilting will ultimately be discarded after the quilting process.

Note: On the Front coat pattern, there is an indication for where the seamline will be cut for your Front lining - this indicates where it will join to the Front Facing.

Cut your Front and Back in a fabric that will represent your interlining, this will create the channels for inserting the loose batting. In this sample, I used muslin as it will be covered by the lining to clean finish the interior of the garment, and lay flat. Place pins along your quilting lines to secure the following three layers:

Begin quilting with thread to match, using your standard stitch length (typically a 2.5 length) layer your fabrics in this order:

Top: Pattern paper with the quilted design illustrated as your sewing guides

Middle: Self-fabric (blue) right side facing up

Bottom: Muslin interlining layer

Repeat this for each individual panel: 2 Front Panels, 2 Back Panels

I also did this for the Facing panels so I could give them a quilting effect in case the coat is worn open or the collar rolled when worn.

As you are quilting, once each row is complete, fold the paper along the stitch line. This will enable you to tear the paper away and roll the section you just completed to allow easier maneuvering for the following quilted lines. Be sure not to tear the paper from the stitches directly, place one hand on the paper opposite the fold line, and tear paper-from-paper.

Repeat the process for your Facing panels, it is optional to layer these and do quilting as well if you consider wearing the coat open and exposing that area of the garment.

For the Facing cut in Self Fabric and in Muslin as interfacing, it is optional to sew quilted channels here.

Next, join your Facings to your Front Lining panels.

Close the center back seam to join both of your Back Panels in Self Fabric, then attach Front and Back lining with right sides facing. Set this aside to begin quilting the Self Fabric pieces.

For the filling of each section, it helps to do a running stitch (elongated stitch) 1/8" from the raw edges of the fabric, along the top edge and hem edge of each panel. This acts as a stopped point for your fill for each section before attaching Front and Back panels in the same process as the lining.

Close up the center back seam of the Back panels, fill each section with the loose batting for each Front and Back panel. Attach those along the side seams with right sides facing. 

Consider closing your seams at the side seams before inserting your filling. This can be a bit stressful for some machines due to the thickness of the coat. It is vital to pin or hand baste the seams before going to the machine, the weight of the coat is stressful for the feed-dogs. Hold your coat so it is level with the machine and use a zipper foot so you can sew as closely as accurately to the 1/2" seam allowance.

Take the lining and attach the right sides together along the center front seam, hem your sleeves, and the hem edges of the coat individually. 

How to Sew a Puffer Coat Using a Free Sewing Pattern - Mood Sewciety
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