30New York Fashion Week, the liveliest week in the city that never sleeps. Designers from around the world dream of having a chance to send their designs sauntering down the runway, but some designers have lived the dream and are changing direction. Regardless of where these brands are going, there have been some major upsets this year.
Why would anyone leave NYFW? Designers that are moving to Paris or London are probably looking to expand their brand and gain traction in European markets. So who’s who in fashion week’s rush of migration? Let’s check out the designers leaving the city, and what their past shows in New York have looked like.
Delpozo – London
Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear was Delpozo’s first show in London, and as expected, it was a hit. Delpozo was founded in 1974 by Jesus del Pozo. It started as a small men’s fashion house and evolved into womenswear in the 80’s. A world-renowned Spanish label, their philosophy is to combine volume, color, and silhouette for a timeless, modern atelier. Jesus del Pozo passed away in 1974; the current creative director is Joseph Font.
I would describe Delpozo as vibrantly pastel. They’re a funky brand and utilize 3D shapes to create stunningly dynamic silhouettes. I’m always excited to click through a Delpozo collection, as their ensembles are lively and captivating. They’re sure to bring some blue skies to the classicly grey London fog.
Delpozo’s Pre-Fall 2018 show, their last in New York, featured a blend of earth tones and pastels, juxtaposed with tropical birds perched upon the models. This sleek duo really encompasses what their Pre-Fall show was about, ensembles ideal for a trip to a tropical island, watching the rain from a bar stool in Aruba or escaping the incoming winter chills in Turks and Caicos.
The Resort 2018 line, basically the antithesis to Pre-Fall, showed models ready for a summer spent traveling through Spain, pastels bridled up next to bright, neon colors. This cape and skirt set is ready for anything, from watching the running of the bulls to late nights in Madrid, sipping wine on a Romeo & Juliet balcony and soaking in the view of a seductive city.
Saddled in between Resort and Pre-Fall, Delpozo brought Spring 2018 to life with vivacious silhouettes and more pastels blended with neons. A line ideal for a season in New York City, this high-low dress features Delpozo’s unmistakable 3D flower and a fantastic bow, perfect for a warm spring day spent strolling through Central Park or grabbing a gelato in the Village.
Do it up like Delpozo with these fabrics:
Thom Browne – Paris
Thom Browne is moving to the city of love with his fantastical designs and fairytale-esque sets. In 2001, Thom Browne opened a small shop with only five suits. In 2003, he debuted a womenswear line that has grown into a New York City staple.
Thom Browne has the interesting gift of being able to combine his extremely tailored, almost surgically so, looks with the wild and the weird to create eccentric ensembles and stunning suits. Thom Browne is the designer for every businesswoman who refuses to give up her style. His first show in Paris was Fall 2018, where models marched down the aisle beside easels as Madonna’s “Vogue” blared from speakers around the room.
If we turned back the calendar one year, to Thom Browne’s 2017 Fall collection, we would see a winter wonderland, models dawning puffy parkas and garments that feature little penguins. This collection was one for the books, the perfect look for a winter in New York City, grabbing a cappuccino on the way to work while watching tourists struggle with the snow, or throwing together a last minute snow day party, featuring hot toddies and NYC’s best takeout (those that are willing to deliver, of course).
Thom Browne warmed up real quick with Resort 2018. Replacing whimsical prints with preppy palettes, this collection couldn’t quite decide whether it was on vacation or working overtime. Either way, it was a stunning selection of tailored suits and tapered trousers, like this lovely navy blazer paired with fiery red pants.
Thom Browne’s Spring 2018 collection was the most whimsical of the bunch, featuring mermaids and unicorns and a whole lot of sequins. On this fairytale runway, many of the pieces were larger than life. But this stunning skirt and blazer set shined through all the excess, a beautiful garment that tells a tale of opulence and sophistication.
Take on Thom Browne tailoring with these fabrics:
Tome – Paris
Cofounders Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin met in 1998 and debuted Tome in 2011. They see their brand as one for every woman, and unlike many high-end designers, they have plus sizes. They go for clean-cut, essential dressing, and their designs exude a professionally chic aesthetic.
I’m going to support any label or brand that designs for all women. Not only is it a reminder that models are not an accurate representation of the average woman, it also allows more people to access the brand, making it a smart business move. That being said, Tome has a way of making their clean-cut silhouettes look expressive and experimental. Where many chic brands shirk vibrancy, Tome saturates their styles in loud colors and interesting prints. Tome is heading to Paris, where their exciting styles and neat silhouettes will be welcomed, and their variety in sizing is much needed.
Tome’s Pre-Fall 2018 collection featured draped, relaxed looks that still managed to look put together, and there were even a few older models on the docket. This ensemble of women from different races and ages show that Tome believes in being an inclusive brand, a stark contrast from many designers who seem to be sending the same model down the runway for every look.
Tome’s Resort 2018 collection is another example of their inclusivity combined with immaculate creativity. A long button-up dress layered over some wide-leg trousers show that fashion is not just for the young, but the young at heart. This lovely dress is perfect for warm Septembers, riding the subway and grabbing an iced tea, while the trousers can work for warm or cold weather, paired with this dress or a flowy blouse.
For Spring 2018, Tome showed one of their plus size pieces. I must say, many designers simply do not know how to create for larger sizes. Many plus size pieces simply hide the model in an attempt to distract from their bigger body. This pleated dress is a testament to Tome’s ability to design for every woman, creating a piece that flows well without covering their curves.
Add a touch of Tome with these fabrics:
Victoria Beckham – London
Victoria Beckham, a former member of the Spice Girls, came on the scene in 2008. Although she was originally seen as a novelty, a pop star turned wannabe designer, she soon reminded everyone why she was called Posh Spice (it’s because she’s posh). Although Victoria Beckham started as a dress line, it soon grew to include all garments. She is now one of New York’s most respected designers.
Sophisticated and chic, Victoria Beckham prides herself on a line that’s both feminine and strong. Her silhouettes sleek and understated, Beckham continuously features a stunning array of powerful garments that any woman would wear with pride. She’s heading home with her next collection, leaving the city where she built her brand.
Victoria Beckham’s Fall 2018 collection featured asymmetrical hems and a fantastic leopard print coat, perfect for grabbing dinner before a Broadway show or going ice skating at Rockefeller Center.
For Pre-Fall, Victoria Beckham incorporated crystals into her collection, taking a page out of her pre-show cleansing ritual. This stunning skirt paired with a simple sweater is tied together beautifully with the necklace of crystals, the perfect outfit for a fall getaway to the Hamptons, relaxing on a wrap-around porch or going for a walk in the chilly September air.
Victoria Beckham’s Spring 2018 collection was a prime example of her strong feminity, displaying feminine clothes that are anything but delicate. This sheer blouse paired with loose white pants is ideal for beating the New York City summer heat, getting an iced latte and going to see a show in the park.
Design it like Victoria Beckham with these fabrics:
Are you sad to see these designers go, or excited for more indie fashion companies to get their chance at a spot in NYFW? Let me know in the comments!