Did you know that an accurate Kylo Ren costume would include 11 different cosplay pieces (12, if you include his lightsaber)? Dude likes to accessorize.
According to the 501st Legion, Kylo has hidden layers you might not have caught when you saw the movie four times this winter – one of which, includes his mid coat. Yes, beneath his cowl and his now iconic outer robe, Kylo actually has several more coats. How does the guy even stand, let alone fight people? With today’s post, the first for Mood Cosplay, I’m going to break down this guy’s layering obsession (I guess it is cold on Starkiller Base) and explain how I created this super simple mid coat pattern!
To begin, let’s talk fabric. If you want screen accuracy or Legion certification, you’ll want to get a black twill wool. I used Mood’s basic black solid suiting, which has a great twill weave. Their Donna Karan twill suiting is also awesome. I used about 4 yards, however I decided against lining the bodice and I kept the bottom less full than I usually make it. If you decide to make changes, you may want to order a bit more.
Now, on to the pattern making! You’ll need an old t-shirt for this part. First, cut off the sleeves. Kylo went straight 80’s with this one.
Next, gather and cut the sides for an accurate fit, but be sure not to stretch the fabric too much – your suiting material probably isn’t stretchy. You’ll then want to cut straight across the waist, as well as up the center front. And now you have your main pattern pieces!
Since I didn’t line this part, I cut out two front panels and one back panel (plus seam allowances!). You’ll need to double this if you want to include a lining. From here, sew the bodice at both shoulders, the front center seam, and ONE of the sides. The other side will close with a separating zipper. Topstitch on both sides of the front center seam, as seen below.
Another option is to put an invisible zipper in the front seam instead, but I decided against the possibility of seeing the toggle at the top.
To finish the bodice, attach a 1″-2″ military style collar, and fold in the arm holes and topstitch.
For the bottom panels, you essentially just need a bunch of giant rectangles. Since I did line this section of the coat, I cut four pieces for the two front panels (each measuring 18″x43″) and two pieces for the single back panel (measuring 38″x43″). The mid coat should fall about 2″ shorter than the outer robe, so in this case the 43″ was the length from waist to ankle.
To create the panels, sew along the sides and bottom with right sides together. Clip the corners and then flip them right side out to topstitch them, like below.
The unfinished edges of these panels get attached to the bottom of the bodice, with two box pleats in the back and one box pleat on each of the front panels.
Here you would attach your zipper to the side, and then you’re ready to start fighting the Resistance! Or at least start making all of his other costume pieces…