In case no one has caught on, I really love jackets. No matter what time of year it is, I'm constantly planning more. My coat rack is on strike. But when Mood got this bright new faux leather in scuba blue and golden poppy, I couldn't resist a new moto. The shades went along perfectly with Resourceful, one of Pantone's color trends for 2018, so basically it was fate. I grabbed some mazarine blue for the piping and a little peach for the lining, all rounded off with a neutral silver for the main jacket. To make things even better, I made my pattern into a downloadable PDF.
Fabrics & materials used:
- 2 yards Metallic Silver Faux Leather with a Gray Faux Suede Backing
- 1/2 yard Scuba Blue Wrinkled Faux Patent Leather with a Green Fabric Backing
- 1/2 yard Golden Poppy Wrinkled Faux Patent Leather with a Green Fabric Backing
- 1/2 yard Mazarine Blue Silk Charmeuse
- 2 yards Peach Silk Charmeuse
- 3 Black Metal Separating Zipper with Silver Pull and Teeth - 21"
- Brass/Black Heavy Duty Snaps
- Optional: Dritz Heavy Duty Snap Plier Kit
- Universal Leather Needles
Unfortunately, this pattern is no longer available, but you can find another free moto jacket pattern here!
Your pattern should look like this, all laid out: 9 sheets across and 7 down.
To start things off, I put the lining together. This began with the back (22), which gets a small box pleat before being attached to the back upper lining (16).
Next, attach the sides (14) to the back lining (14). So far, things are pretty straight forward (I hope).
For the front section of the lining, things change up just a little bit. Pieces 4 and 5 go together as well as 6 and 7, like you see below. Here though, you should keep in mind that 5 and 6 are your lapel linings, so they will be seen when your lapels are folded outward (which is typically always for a moto jacket). For mine, I cut them from the same silver as the rest of the jacket.
Now, things start coming together! The front and back linings can be attached at the shoulders (red) and sides (blue). Once that's done, the waistband can be sewn around the entire bottom (purple). Be sure to align the waistband seams with the back side seams, box pleating the back lining again if necessary.
Next, we move on to sleeves! The sleeve lining is easy enough to put together, stitch the red lines together, and then stitch the second seam closed and attach each to its respective arm hole of the lining.
Here is where I also started on the outer jacket. Technically, the outer sleeves go together the same way, but I added some piping along the red seam. If you choose to do this, you can easily add some pre-made piping trim, but I just used a 1" wide strip of silk folded in half.
Now it's time to start making the parts of the jacket that actually look like a jacket!
For this pattern, I made angular shoulders - mostly as an excuse to add more colors! As you would expect, 17 and 1 attach along the red line, like you see below. This is another seam where I added some dark blue piping.
The other side of the jacket fits together similarly, but there are a couple extra steps. The panel as a whole is split in half, since this is where a zipper will eventually fit. Piece 19 is sewn to 2, while 18 gets attached to piece 3.
To complete the left front panel, sew both together along the red line below, sandwiching the pin side of a separating zipper between. Place the zipper about 3/4" from the bottom of the seam, leaving seam allowance to later add the waistband.
Next is pockets, which I admit is the trickiest part of this whole project.
Begin by placing a pocket panel (23) against each of your front panels (1 or 3), wrong sides together. Line up the rectangles drawn on the pattern pieces and cut along the small dotted line in the rectangle, like you see below. Fold the fabric inward, so you have an open rectangle on the front of your jacket. Place a zipper inside the rectangle from the back of your jacket, with the slider toward the top of the pocket opening.
Top-stitch around the rectangle, securing the zipper and pocket panel into place. Match up another pocket piece, right sides together, and sew along the the red line above (not including the faux leather of the jacket). The bottom can be temporarily left open, as it will be sewn into the waistband. Repeat pocket insertion on your other front panel.
The back of the jacket has shoulder extensions, which I love on moto jackets. Not only are they practical and allow you to move your arms around easier, but they're also another excuse to use color. I chose the patent blue again to match the front shoulders.
Begin by sewing piece 10 to piece 21, right sides together. Here, I chose to add one last strip of the dark blue piping. Piece 10 was then folded inward, toward the wrong side of the jacket, and sewn to the right side of piece 11, along the red line you see above.
To keep the shoulder extensions in place, you can stay-stitch them at the sides and shoulders before attaching the jacket sides and front panels, like you see above.
Next, sew the sides to the jacket front and attach the waistband the same way you attached it to the lining. At this point, the sleeves can also be sewn on, along with optional shoulder tabs, piece 8. (I decided against them.)
You should now have what is starting to look like a real jacket! The final step before attaching the lining is to add the collar along the red line above, centering it in the back. This can be done to both the lining, and the outer jacket.
To attach the outer layer with the lining: align the collars, lapels, and waistbands with right sides together. Stitch around the entire perimeter of the jacket, leaving the right lapel open where the other half of the zipper will be placed. Also, be sure not to accidentally sew over your sleeves.
Pull everything right-side-out, including the sleeves. Here, you can fit your sleeves to the desired length and slip-stitch the outer layer and lining together by hand, or pull each through the lapel opening and sew around the wrist with your machine.
To close the lapel, pin on the other half of the zipper, lining it up with the bottom of the zipper on your other lapel. Secure it by top-stitching around the entire perimeter of the jacket, like you see on the collar below.
The finishing touches to my jacket were two snaps on the waistband, which were attached using the directions on the Dritz Plier Kit. I also explain how to insert them in this tutorial here!
Needless to say, I really love this moto. And with the exception of wanting to throw my machine out the window at first (I later switched to a walking foot. Definitely use a walking foot.), this project was fairly easy to piece together.
I hope the instructions make sense for everyone. If anything gives you any trouble, let me know and I'll walk you through it!
Also, if you're trying this pattern out, I'd love to hear what fabric combinations you're using. Tell me in the comments!