Do you have your outfit planned for the 4th of July? We have something that can get you from your brunch to the beach to that late afternoon cookout, all in time for the fireworks. This free pattern is simple, quick, and easily customizable! I chose a light, star-printed chambray and a red and white striped seersucker to stick with the patriotic theme, but you could use whatever prints (or solids) you’d like! Plus, I used Mood’s new metallic stretch denim for a pair of matching shorts. Needless to say, they’re amazing.
Fabrics & materials used:
- 1 yard Dusted Baby Blue Star Printed Cotton Chambray
- 1/2 yard Red Candy Striped Seersucker
- 1/2 yard White Water Jet Loom Interfacing and Fusible
- 1 yard Italian Black Stretch Denim with Metallic Silver Laminate
- 1 4″-6″ Zipper
- Silver Dritz Jean Buttons
For the shorts, I followed the widely loved Ginger Jeans pattern from Closet Case Files. I cut them to mid-thigh, and cuffed them about 1.5 inches. For the pockets, I used the striped seersucker that I also used for some details on the shirt.
The shirt is a self-drafted pattern, typical of a women’s size small. However, I scanned it and graded it up as well! The sizing should follow standard small, medium, large, and x-large, but if you’re unsure where you’d fall I definitely recommend trying it on muslin first.
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To start, I strongly recommend using French seams for this DIY. A lining isn’t required, so encasing your seams will definitely go a long way in making your garment look more tailored. If you’ve never sewn with them before, I have a quick tutorial on them here! The pattern includes a 5/8″ seam allowance, so you may want to add another 1/8″ if you’re new to French seams.
Once your pieces are cut out, sew the darts on the SHIRT FRONT. This shapes the front of your shirt and ensures that you have some breathing room.
Next, your SHIRT FRONT and SHIRT BACK can be attached at the shoulders and sides (again, using French seams is recommended here).
Next, cut a 1.5″ strip of your contrast fabric. I chose to use a striped seersucker to stay on theme.
Sew the strip around the armhole of your shirt, placing right sides together. Fold the fabric twice inward, encasing all raw edges inside. Edge-stitch around the armhole to finish.
Next, we have the button plackets. They’re fairly easy to put together, but I decided to add a small striped detail. Before adding my placket, I cut a strip off seersucker about 1″ wide. I folded it in half, and placed it along the center front of the SHIRT FRONT panel, basting about 1/4″ in.
I added seersucker to both SHIRT FRONT panels. Before adding on the actual plackets, they needs to be ironed. I strongly recommend interfacing both plackets.
First, they were folded in half and pressed, like you can see above. Next, the raw edges were tucked inside and ironed again. The made a sort of double fold bias tape.
When attaching each to the shirt, I placed the first fold directly along the basting stitch of the striped seersucker.
When sewing along the fold, this should leave a small amount of striped piping on the right side of the shirt, like below.
To finish up the plackets, I folded the fabric so it laid flat and covered all raw edges, slip-stitching along the back.
Once the plackets are both in place, it’s time for the collar. I chose to interface one SHIRT COLLAR and one COLLAR FACING, but you could easily interface both for a more crisp look.
There are a few ways to sew collars. The correct way would be to sew your two SHIRT COLLARS together and then encase them inside the COLLAR FACINGS. However, that can be a bit irksome at times.
For something casual, I will sometimes sew each collar to its respective facing, and then sew both sides together and flip it right side out. It’s totally a cheat, but it is a great way to minimize top-stitching.
Next, I pressed the collar into shape and then pinned it to the main shirt, from placket to placket.
After the majority of the shirt was complete, I added buttonholes. Luckily, Mood’s sewing machine has a buttonhole foot attachment, so they were perfect every time.
Lastly, the bottom of the shirt needs to be hemmed. Along the curved parts I notched the seam allowance, and then simply rolled the entire lower hem.
Paired with some high-waisted shorts, this shirt makes the perfect Independence Day ensemble!
Plus, if you make the shorts yourself, you can make the pockets match as well!
What about you? Will you be making yours patriotic as well, or will you be taking a different route?
