Sewing a Shirred Summer Dress with Ruffles – The Camellia Redux

Ah, summertime—the season of endless sunshine and carefree days! At least that’s what we all dream of at the beginning of summer. The reality is that, more often than not, it’s uncomfortably hot & humid, and many of us spend too much time trying to dress accordingly while still maintaining our style. We all have our summer staples to get us through the sweltering months, such as airy breathable fabrics, oversized fashion, style details, and more. My summer staples are linen, oversized layering pieces, sprayable rosewater, and a folding fan (seriously – mist, fan, and repeat – it’s a lifesaver!!)

Shirred garments are a perennial warm weather staple for many, and it’s no wonder why! They contain a breezy abundance of fabric, yet the shirring is able to pinpoint the exact spots that you want hugged. The elasticated thread adapts to the changes in one’s size and shape, allowing it to remain a long term, more sustainable staple in your closet. Shirring also negates the need for tricky buttons or zippers as a means to put the garment on and take off. Let’s face it – buttons and zippers are no fun to sew or use, so I love a pattern that doesn’t require either! With all that being said, many shirred garments are, or can easily be, adaptive. So what’s not to love?

I completely understand how shirring can intimidate sewists. It’s a very specific technique that one doesn’t just naturally fall into. But all it takes is a little patience, a few test scraps, and lots of elastic thread! You’ll get the hang in no time. Take a look at our Tips & Tricks for Shirring and Ruching Tutorial. This contains everything you need to get started! 

Purchase Materials Used Below:

• .5 yards of Mood Exclusive Tangerine Dreams Rayon Batiste
• 3.5 yards of Mood Exclusive Snack Time Rayon Batiste
• 1 spool of 321 Bubble Gum 100m Gutermann Sew All Thread
• 2 spools of 5019 White 10m Gutermann Elastic Thread
• 2 yards of White Elastic – 0.25″
• MDF154– The Camellia Top Free Sewing Pattern (free download below!)

Alternative Recommended Fabrics:

• Linen 
• Cotton

Download the Camellia Top Here

All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.

How to turn the Camellia Top into a Dress:

1 – Measure the largest circumference spot on your body, and choose the top size based on that. You want to make sure you have ample room!

2 – Determine how long you want the dress to be. Use your overbust as the uppermost measuring point. If you’re adding tiers or ruffles, then measure accordingly. 

3 – I omitted the sleeves and opted for a bardot style shoulder ruffle. 

4 – On the front piece, extend the CF line until you reach your desired dress length. Repeat with the CB line on the back piece. 

5 – Notice how the side seam lines on both pieces are angled inward as they near the waist. Once you get to the bottom of the pattern pieces, pivot the lines so they now angle out. I simply mirrored the angle. 

6 – Redraw the hem line

How to Sew the Dress:

1 – After you cut your fabric out, mark your shirring lines. Can’t decide? Here are some suggestions: 

• Lightly shirr, with your lines spaced every inch or so. 
• Opt for a more concentrated shirred look, and space your lines every ¼”.
• Instead of evenly spaced lines, group them together! Sew two parallel lines ¼” apart. Then sew the next set 1” away. 
• You can do light shirring and space a single line every inch or so, or you can opt for a more concentrated shirred design and space the lines out every ¼”. I decided to sew two lines ¼” parallel to each other, and space those out every inch.  
• Shirr around the top edge only
• Shirr at the waist for a cinched look
• Shirr at the bust for an empire waist

2 – Use elastic thread in the bobbin to shirr the garment, referring to the tutorial if needed. 

3 – Finish the edges with a serger, and then sew the front dress to the back, right sides together. 

4 – If sewing the sleeves on, add those now. 

How to add the shoulder ruffle:

1 – Use a bias strip to finish the armscye. Once finished, insert elastic into that casing and secure with a few stitches. 

2 – Measure the circumference of your shoulders. Double that number, and cut a strip of fabric to that length. I used 5” for the width, including seam allowances. 

3 – Sew a rolled hem on the bottom edge of the ruffle.

4 – Sew two rows of basting stitches along the top edge of the ruffle. 

5 – Place the right side of the ruffle against the wrong side of the top bodice edge, and gather. Leave plenty of extra ease at the armscye so the ruffle can be worn on the shoulders or around the arms. 

5 – Sew the ruffle to the bodice with a ¼” seam allowance. Unfold the ruffle and press. The ruffle’s edge at each arm should still be unsewn. Go ahead and fold the raw edges ¼”, wrong sides together. Press.

6 –  Bring the ruffle right side out and press. The arm ruffles should be folded again, this time ⅜”. Pin and press. 

7 – Sew ⅜” from the folded edge, leaving about 1” free for the elastic. 

8 – Insert the elastic and finish the seam. 

9 – Continue sewing the dress, adding hem ruffles, tiers, or simply finishing the hem.