Sewing beautiful garments and projects are the end goal but figuring out which needle and thread are best from project to project is a pain if you’re new to sewing or curious to learn more. Below is the ultimate guide to choosing the right needle and thread for your project. In this guide, you can expect to learn about needle types and sizes, as well as which thread is best for the fabric and needle you’re sewing with.
Let’s get started!
Choosing the Right Sewing Needle for Your Project
Needles come in many shapes and sizes, and on each package of needles, there are a few numbers you need to understand. Needles are labeled with UK and US needle sizes, which range from US size 8-20 and UK size 60-120. The lower the number, the finer the needle.
**Remember: The lighter the weight of the fabric and thread, the finer the needle and vice versa.
Choosing the Right Sewing Needle Size
| Fabric | Needle Size |
| Sheer to Lightweight (like Batiste, chiffon, voile) | 8 or 9 |
| Lightweight (like silk, taffeta, charmeuse) | 9 to 11 |
| Medium-weight (like brocade, linen, organza) | 12 or 14 |
| Heavyweight (like gabardine, coating, drapery) | 14 or 16 |
| Very Heavyweight (like denim, canvas) | 16 or 18 |
Common Types of Sewing Machine Needles
Sewing Needle & Fabric Guide
| Needle Type | US Needle Size | Fabric Type |
| Universal | 8-20 | Most wovens and some (sturdy) knits |
| Ballpoint/Jersey | 10-14 | Knits |
| Sharp/Microtex | 10-14 | Silk, voile, shirtings, and worsted wool |
| Stretch | 11 & 14 | Fabrics with 2-way stretch that contains lycra or spandex |
| Denim | 12-16 | Denim, canvas, and tightly woven fabrics |
| Leather | 12-16 | Genuine leather and suede |
Choosing the Right Thread for Your Sewing Project
Silk thread is very fine and suitable for sewing natural fibers such as silk or wool. It’s ideal for tailoring since it’s strong and can withstand high temperatures. It is used for basting and typically won’t leave holes in the fabric.
Cotton thread is at its prime when used with natural fiber fabrics. Cotton can withstand high heat, making it good for pressing seams. Cotton thread doesn’t stretch very much making it more prone to snapping.
All-purpose thread is commonly made of cotton or polyester, with polyester thread being the cheaper option. It is suitable for constructing seams, edge stitching, and more.
Embroidery thread is commonly made of rayon or silk, with rayon being the more affordable option. It is used for machine and hand embroidery. Rayon and silk embroidery thread works best with lightweight to medium-weight fabrics.
Elastic thread has a high stretch and is used for gathering, smocking, shirring, and creating small details.
Metallic thread is made with a polyester core that’s wrapped with foil/tinsel. It isn’t very strong and breaks quite easily, so it’s best for decorative stitching like embroidery or topstitching.
Congratulations— You’ve found your stop shop for all of your needle, thread, and fabric coordinating questions and needs. Check out our other textile related guides to learn more about other common topics that often need a bit more of a deep dive.
3 comments
Thank you! This is very helpful!
sewing on buttons?
Perfect! This will help really me as I expand my sewing beyond the basics. Thank you!!