Corduroy, known for its vertical wales and velvet-like texture, is a fabric staple for cool-weather wardrobes. A successful corduroy garment starts with quality fabric and ends with a prepared sewist to make construction a breeze. Keep reading to make your next corduroy garment with ease.
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1. Selecting Fabric
- 100% cotton corduroy is going to last longer than corduroy with a polyester blend.
- Avoid corduroy that has a cloud of powdery dust or looks discolored when scratched with a fingernail. These are signs of low-quality corduroy.
- Check the backside of the corduroy to make sure it’s firm and tightly woven
- A high sheen is a good sign of high-quality corduroy.
2. Cutting
- Identify the nap and decide what way you want your pile to lie and keep it consistent when cutting out your pattern pieces.
- Make sure its vertical lines are straight when cutting and sewing to keep everything aligned.
- Corduroy sheds a lot when being cut and sewn, so keep a lint roller handy for easy cleanup.
- Preshrink the fabric before cutting to avoid shrinkage later.
- Cutting in a single layer will encourage straight vertical ribs that line up from one layer to the next.
- A sharp pair of shears or a rotary cutter will cut back on the amount of fuzz and fraying produced.
3. Pressing
- To open up seams, use the finger press method first.
- If a deeper press is necessary, then use a small scrap of the fabric you’re using as a pressing cloth to press the fabric to avoid crushing the ribbed piles.
- Use steam when possible and a light tough. Unwanted iron indentions will show up on corduroy.
4. Sewing
- To avoid any pile-ups when sewing, lift the presser foot and lower the tension on the sewing machine or use a walking foot, which will keep the pile from being disrupted.
- Let ribbed texture be the star by keeping the silhouette relatively simple and streamlined.
- Clip curves and corners to reduce bulk.
- Use a heavyweight or denim needle when sewing.
- All-purpose thread is suitable for corduroy or a type that has the same content as the fabric you’re using.
- Use a wide stitch length.
- Use fabric weights inside of pins of wonder clips to avoid bending or nap indentions.
- Grade seam allowances to make for smooth sewing and less bulk.
- Use a zigzag or overlock stitch to finish seam allowances and stop fraying in its tracks.
- Perform fits tests throughout construction— corduroy will show off any signs of stress.
Pattern Suggestions
By taking the time to select a quality fabric, cut with caution, and sew with care, you’ll be sewing corduroy like a pro in no time. Give your wardrobe the gift of texture with corduroy pieces that will carry you through fall and winter. Don’t be afraid to share the wealth— Leave a comment below with your favorite tips for sewing with corduroy.