Sewing with Corduroy - Free Download

Posted on October 15, 2020 by Stephanie Triplett

Corduroy, known for its vertical wales and velvet-like texture, is a fabric staple for cool-weather wardrobes. A successful corduroy garment starts with quality fabric and ends with a prepared sewist to make construction a breeze. Keep reading to make your next corduroy garment with ease.

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1. Selecting Fabric 

  • 100% cotton corduroy is going to last longer than corduroy with a polyester blend. 
  • Avoid corduroy that has a cloud of powdery dust or looks discolored when scratched with a fingernail. These are signs of low-quality corduroy. 
  • Check the backside of the corduroy to make sure it’s firm and tightly woven 
  • A high sheen is a good sign of high-quality corduroy. 

2. Cutting 

  • Identify the nap and decide what way you want your pile to lie and keep it consistent when cutting out your pattern pieces.
  • Make sure its vertical lines are straight when cutting and sewing to keep everything aligned. 
  • Corduroy sheds a lot when being cut and sewn, so keep a lint roller handy for easy cleanup.
  • Preshrink the fabric before cutting to avoid shrinkage later.
  • Cutting in a single layer will encourage straight vertical ribs that line up from one layer to the next.
  • A sharp pair of shears or a rotary cutter will cut back on the amount of fuzz and fraying produced. 

3. Pressing 

  • To open up seams, use the finger press method first. 
    • If a deeper press is necessary, then use a small scrap of the fabric you’re using as a pressing cloth to press the fabric to avoid crushing the ribbed piles. 
  • Use steam when possible and a light tough. Unwanted iron indentions will show up on corduroy.

4. Sewing 

  • To avoid any pile-ups when sewing, lift the presser foot and lower the tension on the sewing machine or use a walking foot, which will keep the pile from being disrupted.
  • Let ribbed texture be the star by keeping the silhouette relatively simple and streamlined.
  • Clip curves and corners to reduce bulk. 
  • Use a heavyweight or denim needle when sewing. 
  • All-purpose thread is suitable for corduroy or a type that has the same content as the fabric you're using.
  • Use a wide stitch length.
  • Use fabric weights inside of pins of wonder clips to avoid bending or nap indentions.
  • Grade seam allowances to make for smooth sewing and less bulk.
  • Use a zigzag or overlock stitch to finish seam allowances and stop fraying in its tracks.
  • Perform fits tests throughout construction— corduroy will show off any signs of stress.

Pattern Suggestions 

By taking the time to select a quality fabric, cut with caution, and sew with care, you’ll be sewing corduroy like a pro in no time. Give your wardrobe the gift of texture with corduroy pieces that will carry you through fall and winter. Don’t be afraid to share the wealth— Leave a comment below with your favorite tips for sewing with corduroy.

Sewing with Corduroy - Free Download - Mood Sewciety
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