This year, we’ve seen quite a few designers leave New York Fashion Week in pursuit of the European market. But, some designers aren’t leaving just the city, but the week itself. Those designers have either grown tired of the antiquated February/October schedules and are looking to reveal collections when they’ll be sold to consumers, or are tired of runway shows altogether.
Although the February/October fashion weeks are timeless, there has been much discussion on whether or not it’s the most effective schedule. Many believe that moving to a June/December calendar will facilitate sales, as it shortens the time between the shows coming out and when consumers can actually buy the products. Since June/December tends to be when the Pre- lines come out, those would be combined with main lines. On the other hand, a massive change to the original schedule could destabilize businesses in New York City, as fashion week is vital to many hotels and restaurants in the area.
Let’s take a look at which designers have decided to stray from the beaten path and their final shows in the legendary NYFW.
Alexander Wang – June/December
Alexander Wang has never been known for conformity, so it should come as no surprise that he’s decided to make the switch to a June/December schedule. His first store opened in SoHo in 2011, which helped to revive the lower Manhattan fashion scene. He’s designed for the likes of Balenciaga and H&M, while his eponymous line has flourished, known for urban designs and utilizing a lot of black.
Alexander Wang’s line is cool girl fashion. Future fashion icons like Gigi and Bella Hadid, and Kendall Jenner, have walked his shows looking effortlessly chic, and this indifferent aesthetic is only heightened by Wang’s artful use of black. His last show in NYFW was Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear.
For Fall 2018, Alexander Wang easily could have been designing for the latest Bond girl. Powerful and seductive, models marched down the runway wearing CEO-themed attire, showing off Wang’s impeccable tailoring and taste. This sweater featuring contrast sleeves is paired with knit trousers, something you could see walking into every corporate office in New York.
Alexander Wang’s Resort 2018 collection was a testament to that cool girl aesthetic he’s known for. Although the looks were sophisticated, they featured subtle DIY details, like knotting on straps and extreme fraying. Photos pieced together made the lookbook into its very own piece of artwork, something I would hang in my foyer. This lace ruched dress with matching leggings is a testament to Alexander Wang’s tailoring, the perfect ensemble for spending the night dancing in Ibiza or sipping champagne on a rooftop in Manhattan.
Alexander Wang took to the streets for Spring 2018. Wang took the party scene and elevated it with business blazers fashioned into chic dresses. This guerilla march down streets in Manhattan and Brooklyn would have been noteworthy even without the designs of Alexander Wang, but despite the exuberant atmosphere, Wang’s designs shone through. Kendall Jenner made her way down the street in a deconstructed blazer restructured into a dress, perfect for heading to a speakeasy in the city or jet-setting across Europe.
Teach yourself tailoring like Alexander Wang with these fabrics:
Lela Rose – Instagram Show
Lela Rose made no mention of a schedule switch when she ended her tenure at New York Fashion Week. Instead, she’s taking a page out of Yeezy’s book and marketing directly to consumers with Instagram Fashion Shows. Lela Rose was founded in 1998 by Lela Rose. She believes in redefining sophistication with the use of vibrant colors, rich fabrications, sculptural silhouettes and handcrafted details. Her inaugural Instagram show was Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear.
Lela Rose is known for her sophisticated styles. Classic, yet modern, she takes stylish silhouettes and makes them her own with a strong attention to detail and dedication to her art. Seen as a timeless designer, Lela Rose is bringing her brand up to speed by integrating social media.
Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear was a monumental show for Lela Rose. Preppy and posh, her show featured detachable peplums and simple prints to create an immaculate line. One of my favorite trends right now is pastel everything, all year round. Lela Rose does this articulately, proving the pastels are more than just a summer palette. This beautiful cape dress was the piece de resistance in a line of well made, stylish garments that would look right at home at a garden party or tea house.
Lela Rose had fun with Pre-Fall 2018. Beautiful evening gowns were made of casual fabrics, while ready-to-wear was fashioned from typical eveningwear fabrics like charmeuse. She also incorporated pastel glen plaid, displaying her fantastic knack for lady-like elegance and delicacy. This floor length chiffon dress in tropical floral is a stunning example of this collection, ideal for heading to the Met Gala or a springtime wedding.
Lela Rose’s Spring 2018 Ready-to-Wear was a carnival. Gourmet hot dogs and flower stand lined the runway as models marched down the street in playful and flowy garments. This pretty and pastel show is quintessential Lela Rose; fun yet sophisticated, this is the brand of coy feminity. This lovely jumper was the statement piece of the collection, a striped floral number ideal for brunch in Brooklyn or rooftop cocktails.
Love it like Lela Rose with these fabrics:
Marchesa – Updated Seasonal Formatting
Marchesa abruptly canceled their NYFW show, claiming they were updating their seasonal formatting. Georgina Chapman, one of the creators of the brand, is having personal issues and although there’s speculation as to whether that was a factor in the cancellation, it’s clear that they will not be participating in the future. Not totally clear on what their formatting will change to, it will probably be similar to Alexander Wang’s switch to June/December. The brand was established in 2004 by Chapman and Keren Craig and named after Luisa Casati, muse and socialite of early 20th century Europe. Known for their stunning eveningwear, Marchesa was often worn by celebrities at red carpet events, although they have been shunned in the past couple of months.
Embroidered floral patterns are a staple of Marchesa, seen in every collection. They often feature dramatic silhouettes in beautiful colors, garments that stood out on the busiest of red carpets. These stunning pieces speak for themselves, and in Marchesa’s Fall 2018, many of the pieces stood alone, draped on mannequins instead of models.
Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear was originally a fashion show but was instead released as a photo shoot. Aside from their classic embroidery, Marchesa played with sleeve silhouettes, many garments featuring contrast sleeves or off-the-shoulder styles. This stunning teal garment is the quintessential Marchesa; floral embroidery and elegant silhouettes ideal for socialites and the red carpet.
For Resort 2018, Marchesa saturated their designs in color, utilizing vibrant tulle and tantalizing silhouettes to create gorgeous eveningwear. Shades of pink and purple were weaved into almost every garment as if the dresses were created from sky taken straight from the New York sunset. This tiered tulle evening gown is ideal for accepting an Oscar or mingling at gala events.
For Spring 2018 channeled Eastern influences, tying them up with romantic aesthetics. Pearls and cherry blossoms, major parts of Japanese culture, were utilized to embellish beautiful tulle gowns. Sweet and feminine, this stunning deep v gown features a corset-esque tie in the front that pulls the entire gown together, ideal for an eccentric bridal gown or heading to the opera.
Make it like Marchesa with these fabrics:
How do you feel about the possibility of a new schedule for fashion week? Are you loving the Instagram shows? Let me know in the comments!