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cotton

  • Mood DIY: Flower Cut-Out Pillow

    I've always been a fan of fabric manipulation, but even the basic stuff seemed really intimidating. Still, I decided to play around with some simple smocking for a pillow, and I was surprised by how quick and easy it was. And the final result is absolutely beautiful!

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    Items used:

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    As with most pillows, the first step was cutting out fabric squares. This one called for two 16" pieces of cotton, and one of the wool. Another option would be two cuts of wool, but I decided to use the cotton as a colorful back panel, as well as the peek-a-boo flower.

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    In the center of the wrong side of the wool panel, I drew a small circle, measuring at about 3.75". Then I added lines that essentially cut that circle into slices, extending them about 6" past the edge, as you can see in the photo above.

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    I used a rotary cutter to slice cleanly along the chalk lines, up to the outside of the circle. Pinning and sewing the petals together proved much simpler that I expected. I flipped and gathered the wool, like the picture below, placed two pins 1" apart in each petal, and sewed between them. I was done in ten minutes!

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    After that, it just became a simple pillow job again; placing right sides together and sewing around the outside. Rather than sewing the final side closed, I added an invisible zipper, in case I ever wanted to wash or spot clean the case.

    Now I have a cute and colorful new pillow, and a teeny tiny bit of experience in fabric manipulation. Here's to trying new things!

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  • What are the Best and Worse Fabrics to Use When Making a Patchwork Quilt Project?

    Being a textile designer, and having specialized in the development of quilting fabric collections, I have been asked often “What is the best and worse fabrics to use when making a patchwork quilt project”.  I have list them below, but first let me just say that quality and construction is paramount to the development of all quilting projects.  High-quality, Weight, 100% Cotton, Shrinkage, Color Fastness, Tightly Woven and Cheaper Fabrics are some of the words and phrases, buzzing around Quilting Bee Circles across America and abroad.

    qui;lting bee circle

    Quilting is all the “CRAZE”, but the sewing process have been around since the 12th century.  And it seems that the earliest existing decorative works involve the “Tristan quilt” sometimes called the “Guicciadini Quilt” made around 1360-1400 in Sicily.  I like to think of this “first quilt and ancient process” as the very first D.I.Y. project EVER!  I am sure the Sicilians weren’t discussing “Best vs Worse.” They used what they had clearly “making it work”.

    tristan quilt

                                                                              The Tristan / Guicciadini Quilt

    The Sicilians used white Linen fabric stitched with Linen thread. So it seems using "Linen" is a possible consideration, if you want your quilt to last as long as "The Tristan" that is. Today's quilters  refer to using Linen as "thinking outside the box".

    What this tells me is the enchant crafters of the oldest lasting artifacts were also thinking outside the box even back then,

     So  I asked myself why Linen? Was Cotton not around?  That must be it!  But no, although linen dates back thousands of years, Cotton actually trumps Linen being that it has been around since prehistoric times. After a lot of googling, I couldn't come up with why Linen and not Cotton, but being that quilts were two layers of  Linen with wadding cotton as the fill, this makes be think that the linen was more flexible and offers an easier ability to quilt around the wadded cotton fill.

    When planning out your 1st quilt, you may or may not have asked yourself the question at hand. And if you didn’t and just forged ahead thinking creatively and not technically, you just might have ended up with a pretty, but wonky, problematic quilt project.

     So moving onto your 2nd quilting project, try using what is famously known as “Quilt Shop” Quality Cotton fabric. This fabulously known textile has a Chintz like feel as the closely woven plain weave comprised of 100% cotton has a shiny and lustrous finish thanks to a glazed process which ultimately  producing a polish look. Keep in mind that whatever fabric you are in the “MOOD” to use to FASHION into a quilt, it should have no less than a thread count of 68 threads per inch. This is the paramount quality and construction that I mention at the start of this Post.

    The Best Fabrics to Use for a Patchwork Quilt Project Would Be,

    bets j

    Cotton Chintz

    Great to use when working with brightly color prints. Just make sure to pre-wash your fabrics, dry and press. Make it a point to visually look for color bleeding to insure the print is colorfast. Pre-washing will insure that your finished quilt won’t shrink after you first wash your finish project.

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    Liberty of London prints on Cotton Lawn and Silky Voiles

    This well know named fabric has been very popular for many reasons, one being that it is  wider (54”-60”) than standard over the counter quilt fabrics. The extra width gives the quilter an abilitie to use one full piece for the back of their quit top, as long as the width of their quilt top falls under 60". Quilters are know to be frugal sewing bits of random cuts of their fabric stash for most quilt backs.

    Linen

      A favorite of modern quilters; they like linen for their quilting projects being this woven fabric has more texture than quilting cotton and feels good to the touch as it softens with use and washing. Great for patchwork piecing; can stretch and ravel more than quilting cotton. Cut linen with the grain along with using spray starch to stabilize the material; this will make it easier to handle. And remember linen will last a really long time.

    Silk

    This lovely fabric will give your quilts a luxurious feel, are very durable, and are warm although light as a feather. Silk’s bright colors and beautiful prints will add visual and textural interest to your quilts. Woven dupioni silk, Habotai (China) silk and raw silk (silk noil) all will work nicely in patchwork quilts.

     Batiks 

     This uniquely made textile has a higher thread count because of the way the batik is developed; the dyes need a higher thread count to handle the resist & batik creation process. The batik process has repeated washings during which time the fabric is shrinking, so a higher thread count will have less shrinkage. Next to 'Quilt Shop' quilting cottons, Batiks are a popular 2nd choice for the serious quilter.

    As for the WORSE fabric  "NOT" to use to make a patchwork quilt 

    The list could be on the long side so just keep this in mind, natural fiber fabrics work best.

     Synthetics - can melt and there is a lot of steam pressing when making a patchwork quilt top.

    Knits - have too much stretch, but many have successfully made tee-shirt memory quilts with a lot of help from fusible backing.

    Any loosely woven fabric (example Barkcloth and Burlap) will be too flimsy; can lose its shape after cutting into small squares and will definitely give you a wonky looking quilt!

    Until next time...have a Sew, sew creative day!

    Natali B.

  • Dorm Room Tutorial Projects

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    Do you need dorm room inspiration to dress up your dorm room? These tutorials are simple and easy to follow, making your dorm room very unique! Save money on dorm room decorations with these at home DIY projects. Mood fabrics is home to an expansive amount of fabrications and colorations making it simple for you to collect the fabric needed for these projects. Make your dorm feel like home with these simplistic yet fun ideas!  Dorm room Tutorials:

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    1) Bulletin Board Decor

    2) Pillow

    3) Curtains

    4) Poof Ottoman

    5) Tapestry

    6) Seat Cover

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    Decorate Bulletin Board

    final 1

    Items needed

    ½ fabric – can be same or different fabric

    Striped FabricPaisley FabricAbstract Fabric, Polkadot Fabric

    L-Square ruler

    Thread

    Pins

    Trim

    Scissors

     Items Needed

    Step 1:

    Fold over each half-yard with the face out and iron the fabric so that any wrinkles are pressed out. Once your fabric is folded it will be 9″ in length, the exact length of the pennant. The top of the pennant will be 7″ wide so measure in 7″ from the selvedge. To create the point, measure 3.5″ in from the bottom and make a mark. Then connect the top two ends to the point and you have a perfect triangle! Once your first pennant is measured, alternate sides measuring over 7″ and they will all be the exact same size.

     step 1

    Step 2

    Step 2:

    Once all of the prep work is done you can begin to make your cuts! They should be fairly simple, just make sure you use a pencil with a dark line so that you can see it well enough. I also recommend using fabric scissors that are very sharp. The cotton fabrics are all woven so you want to prevent fraying!

    Step 3

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    Step 3:

    After all of your fabric is cut, begin to pin your pennants on your trim. You can use all different types of trim, I would recommend measuring your bulletin board to figure out how long you’d like to make yours. Leave 5 1/2” on each side for hanging purposes. Begin to place the pennants neatly; I placed mine 4” apart from each other. Make sure you place them with the right side facing down, you will be sewing the trim overtop of the pennants.

    Step 3

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    Step 4:

    Begin to sew each pennant onto the trim, sew on the upper edge back tacking, and do this for all pennants. Sew the bottom edge as well so the pennants lay flat on the trim.

    Step 4

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    Step 5:

    Fold each edge of trim on the ends over about an inch; sew this down to have a neat edge on each side.

     Step 5

    Hang up your newly decorated banner to add color and life to your bulletin board.  You can also use a few on the pennants you cut out to decorate your notes and to keep you reminded of what’s going on throughout the semester.

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    Final 2

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    DIY pillow

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    Items needed

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    1 yd. fabric

    Thread

    Measuring tape

    Scissors

    Pins

    Pillow form  

    chalk

    This pillowcase tutorial is very easy to make, this is a great beginner’s project.  Make a few and they will make for a great dorm room decor idea! Not to mention a very comfy bed or lounging area! ZzZzZ

    Step 1: I started out with a 14" X 14" pillow form.  Add 1" to the width of you measurements for seam allowance.  For the length double it and add 6". This will allow for the overlapping of the sham and seam allowance.  The final measurements I cut on my pillow were 34" X 15".

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    Step 2: Next, on the short sides,chalk in a .5" seam allowance turn your edge over .5” , pin and iron. Then, chalk another .5",  turn it over on the .5" , pin and iron. Then, sew the seam along the edge. Do the same thing to the other short side. For the long sides, only chalk a .5" seam allowance on both long sides.

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    Step 3: Once your short sides are hemmed, lay your fabric on the table right side up. Take your pillow form, place it in the middle of your fabric, and fold your fabric over your pillow.

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    Step 4: Make sure the fabric is lined up on either side and fits snug around the pillow. Then, pin the two flaps of fabric together on either side.

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    Now, slide the pillow out of the fabric and pin both sides of the fabric together along the sides.

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    Step 5: Now, sew a straight line along the .5" seam allowance you previously chalked along the edges you have pinned. After you’ve sewn both sides, turn your pillowcase right side out through the open flap you have in the middle.

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    Insert the pillow into the case through the open flap and you're all done!

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    DIY Curtains

    Items needed

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    Fabric

    Thread

    Measuring tape

    For tutorial purposes I am going to create curtains but on a smaller scale. You can use this tutorial to make ones to fit your windows but be sure to measure your windows and cut your fabric relating to your measurements.

    Step 1: First, Iron your fabric; sew a half-inch seam allowance around all sides, excluding the bottom.

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    Step 2: After you have completed your hem, fold the top of your fabric down about 3”. This is for the rod to be entered through when hanging. Sew where the end of the fabric meets when folded over.

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    Hang out your curtains, if they are to long you can always hem the bottom to your liking. If they fit to size, be sure to hem them atlas 1/2" to complete a finished look.

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    DIY Poof Ottoman

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    Items Needed

    Fabric

    Thread

    Stuffing

    Measuring tape

    Scissors

    Pins

    I suggest making a larger one then I am here, but to save time and materials I am going to make a smaller scale one.

    Step 1: Measure out a square size that you want, this will be the top and bottom of your ottoman. I used a 18" X 18" square. Cut 2 of these pieces out.

    Measure out the rectangle side panels now, you will need four.  You must use the same length as your square, I made mine a bit thinner. My measurements were 18" X 10". cut out four.

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    Note: If you are making your own sizes be sure to incorporate seam allowance, I incorporated a .5" seam allowance in all of my measurements.

    Step 2: Connecting the side panels, with right sides together begin to pin the side panels all together, one after another. Sew these together with a .5" seam allowance.

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    Step 3: Connecting the top, Right sides together begin to pin each side panel to the four edges of the top panel. You may have to move things around to be sure the four corners match up. Sew a .5" seam allowance around the four sides of the top panel.

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    Step 4: Connecting the bottom, do the exact same thing for the bottom as you did for the top, except when sewing you are going to leave a large opening on one of the side panels. After you've sewn a .5" seam allowance around all bottom edges( with the exception of the opening) turn your ottoman right side out.

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    Step 5: You may have to use a pencil to point out all of the corners to insure it is completely right side out. Begin to stuff your ottoman, stuff it as much as you can.

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    Step 6: it is easiest to hand sew the opening closed, after you have done this you are all done!

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    Enjoy !!

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    DIY tapestry

    Items Needed

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    1 Panel fabric

    thread

    Step 1: Get a panel fabric to have a large print tapestry. If you’d like you can keep the edges unfinished, but for a more neat look hem the edges about ½ “ or 1”.

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    DIY Seat Cover

    After

    Items needed:

    1 Yd fabric

    thread

    measuring tape

    scissors

    Pins

    Items neeeded

    Step 1: Measure the hight and width of your chair that you'd like to cover. Add 1" seam allowance to both the length and width. Add about 2 inches to the length of the fabric to make room for the draping over the top of the chair.

    Step 1

    Step 2: Pin & Sew 1/2" hem to both ends of the fabric, so the bottom has a finished look.

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    Step 3: Fold right sides together and sew a 1/2" seam to both sides. This is to close the seat cover.

    Step 3

    Turn your seat cover right side out and slip over your chair!

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     Your dorm room will be extremely unique with all of your hand made creations! Follow these tutorials or use it as inspiration to make your dorm room feel like home.

  • DIY Dorm Decor

    Get inspired by this collage to create the perfect decked out dorm room!

    Use these fabrics to replicate this dorm room for a cozy and comfortable environment all semester long.

    diy dorm

    Above is an inspiration for a women's dorm room. Use your imagination with creating your dream dorm room. Use a variety of textural fabrics and colors to create pillows, blankets, duvet cover, curtains, headboard, seat covers and many more items for your interior space. Dorm rooms can be small and cold at first, once you add all of your fantastic creations, your room will feel just like home.

    diy dorm mensHere we have a cooler combination for a men's dorm room.  This room consist of a variety of soft fabrics perfect for lounging with cool coloration. Adding bold patterns can give a dorm room life. Create duvet covers, wall hangings, blankets, throws, sheets, pillows and even curtains.

    Create your own dorm room with your sewing skills! Be unique and have a great dorm room experience with items that you made. Check out the other fabrics Mood has to offer for more ideas!

  • Get The Look ~ Posh Palazzo Pants

     

    Palazzo pants are comfortable, breezy and perfect for the summer seasons.  Here at mood, we have a variety of jersey knit options that suit this pant design very well.  This tutorial is simple easy and fast, great for beginner sewers!

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    Items Needed:

    2 yds fabric

    1 yd: 1” elastic

    Seam ripper ~ for mistakes

    Fabric scissors

    Existing pants

    Thread

    Dressing pins

    Measuring tape

    Safety pin

     Items Needed

    First set up your machine with matching thread and bobbin to accompany your fabric of choice. For jersey fabrics  you must use an impromptu 2-surge stitch, or use a fancy zigzag. Below you can see examples of stitches able to use on jersey fabrics. (I used the one on the right side)

     Stitched needed ED

      You are going to want to fold your fabric in half neatly to receive 2 panels front and back when cut.  Place a pair of folded pants in half onto the fabric; insuring the crotch seam is at a strong point.  It is very important you make your pattern with a curved pointed crotch seam. I chose a pair of palazzo pants to begin with, but if you do not already own a pair, you could use a pair of jeans.  To create a palazzo effect, add width to your jean pattern, for a total of 12” width for your pant leg.  After adding the width to your pattern add an additional inch for seam allowance to all sides. For my pattern I decided to add 4 “ to the top of my pattern to create a high wasted effect.

    Step 1 ED

      Now you are ready to cut! Be sure to cut on the fold to insure you end up with 2 separate identical panels. Pin these panels together and flip to the other side on top of your uncut fabric. Cut out pattern again facing the opposite direction. You will end up with another 2 panels. Now, you should have a total of 4 separate panels.  Pin the identical panels’ right sides together.  

    Step 3-2 ED

    Step 4 ED

    Step 5-2 ED

    Now you are ready to sew! Practice your stitch on a sample piece of jersey fabric to get used to the stitch you are going to use. (Straight stitch will not hold in a jersey knit fabric).

    With the right sides pinned together, you are going to sew 2 identical panels together with a 1” seam allowance. Sew the outer leg pant seam from top to bottom. Be sure to back tack at the beginning of your stich and at the end. Do this for both pinned panels.

    Outer Seam ED

    Now, sew a 1” seam allowance on the inside leg seam stopping at the crotch point, do not go all the way up. Back tack at the beginning and end of your stitch. Do this for both leg panels.

    Inside Seam ED

    It is time to sew the crotch seam, the most important seam of a pant pattern.  Take all pins out if you have any in your leg panels. Turn one leg right side out and leave one inside out. Place the right side out leg panel into the inside out leg panel. Now, with one inside the other, match the crotch seams together. So that your seam matches perfectly pin the crotch seam in place.  Pin the remainder of the leg panels together.  Sew a 1” seam to attach the 2 panels inside each other together. Be sure the inner leg seam for the best visual outcome.

    Step 8 ED

    Step 8-3 ED

    Take the right side out pant leg out side of the other leg and insure your seams match.  Make it so your pants are completely inside out.

    Make a 1 1/2” casing for your elastic around the waistband of your pants. Sew this as a tube like structure. Don’t sew this tube shut, leave about a 2” opening for the elastic to be inserted.

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    Measure your waist for the elastic and subtract 2-3 inches only if you want your pants to be high wasted. If you would prefer your pants to sit on your hips only subtract about an inch or two at the most. Cut this elastic to your desired length.

    Attach a large safety pin to one side of your elastic.

    Step 13

    Ease your elastic through the opening through the casing until the other side of the elastic meets the safety pin.  Pull out both sides of the elastic (enough to fit under the sewing machine).  Place one side of the elastic on top of the other end of the elastic. Sew a vertical line over top connecting the two ends of the elastic.

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    Once the elastic is sewn and completely inside the casing, sew the opening of your casing closed.  Move the gathered fabric around evenly.  At the 4 points where the side leg seams meet, front and back crotch seams meet sew a short vertical line connecting your casing to your elastic. This will insure your elastic wont twist when you put on your pants or wash them.

    Step 15

    Try your pants on and decided the length you want them to be, If you have not already washed your fabric take inconsideration shrinking. Hem the bottoms of your pants to you desired length.

    Step 16

    Congratulations on completing your palazzo pants.  I hope you have found this tutorial easy and simple.  This design is very versatile and can be altered to fit any size. Using jersey fabric is great to form around curves and very comfortable for pants.  If you prefer a cool weather garment, using wool coating would be great for this design.

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  • New Designer at Mood Fabrics: Steven Alan

    210 Mood Fabrics is pleased to be carrying fabrics from designer Steven Alan, who's known for his modern reinterpretation of classics. If you like "heritage-wear" pieces, you'll want to check out these Steven Alan fabrics we've recently uploaded to MoodFabrics.com.

    "The great thing about Steven Alan...is that his clothes feel like fashion but are accessible for those who find self-consciously cool labels pretentious." —Style.com

    Steven Alan fabrics now available at Mood Fabrics, in store and online. Steven Alan Coral and Ecru Crinkled Gauze, available at MoodFabrics.com
    Steven Alan fabrics now available at Mood Fabrics, in store and online. Steven Alan Blue and Ivory Cotton Plaid, available online at MoodFabrics.com
    Steven Alan fabrics now available at Mood Fabrics, in store and online. Steven Alan Moss Green Checked Cotton Shirting, available online at MoodFabrics.com.
  • Finished: The Textured Bomber Jacket

    Bomber jackets found on Net-a-Porter: l-r, Isabel Marant, Maison Martin Margiela, Maje Bomber jackets found on Net-a-Porter: l-r, Isabel Marant, Maison Martin Margiela, Maje

    My first sewing obsession of the new year was to make a bomber jacket. Every time I saw a  bomber jacket added to Net-a-Porter or read some fashion editorial about varsity jackets as the latest thing, I decided I had to make one for myself.

    So, hmm, I knew I wanted to make a black bomber jacket, though I didn't intend to make a textured bomber jacket. But readers, even though I work at Mood Fabrics and fabric is my business, I GET OVERWHELMED TOO! I was wandering around our silk department, pattern in hand, and I was an indecisive mess. Drool was practically coming out of my mouth, I was in such a stupor over which fabric to choose. But then our wonderful, longtime sales associate America thrust a bolt of newly arrived Marc Jacobs wool-blend brocade at me and said "Here, this is your fabric." Actually, I think she just wanted me to quit taking up space on the sales floor, but I grabbed a couple yards of it and scurried back to my office downstairs.

    bomber front 1

    And this cotton brocade turned out to be a delight to work with. Don't you just love it when fabric behaves? When a seam presses open perfectly and your stitches disappear into the fabric? We still have some of this brocade available at the Mood NYC store: call 212-730-5003, ask for America (or the silk department) and tell her you want Meg's bomber jacket fabric; $50 a yard and worth every penny.

    bomber detail

    Above, a better glimpse of this textured fabric and some of the jacket details. You can see I opted to use elastic encased in silk satin rather than the called-for ribbing at the waist and cuffs. I tested a couple of knit ribbing options first, including a neoprene, but wasn't happy with them. I do like the contrast of the smooth satin with the textured cotton.

    The zippers are pick-stitched rather than machine-stitched; I think that's a little more elegant. I wish I had gone with a more expensive zipper rather than these ordinary YKK zippers, and that  I had played a little more with zipper treatments before going the exposed zipper route, but oh well, live and learn.

    bomber inside

    I chose not to line this jacket. The cotton fabric would have been fine without a lining but I decided to flatline it instead with some silk organza, just to give it a little wearing ease and a neat appearance when you see the inside of the jacket. (Flatlining is a technique where the fashion fabric and lining fabric are treated as one fabric, rather than constructing the garment first and then attaching the lining.) I basted the silk organza to the cotton brocade pattern pieces before I sewed the pieces together. Which pattern, you ask? It's BurdaStyle 7210, and you can buy it from Simplicity.com; yay, no tracing involved! This pattern is very well drafted in the sleeve area and overall. The only adjustment I made to the pattern itself was to narrow the sleeve width slightly (personal preference), and to omit the front and back flaps. Other construction details: - Seams are either Hong Kong-finished with satin bias tape or serged. - The neckline finish consists of a silk satin bias piece that is lined with some neoprene I had around, just to give it some fullness. - I hate when the zipper tape shows on the wrong side, so I covered it with satin bias tape (handstitched). - Pockets are made from black silk charmeuse I had in my stash.

    bomber inside 2

    Bottom line: Really, really pleased with this jacket, though it ended up being a little more structured in appearance than a typical bomber jacket. I wear it unzipped over a t-shirt or turtleneck, and with jeans or black or tan pants. Sewing construction actually was easy and it all came together fairly quickly. In fact, I'm now working on another interpretation of the bomber jacket, this time in ivory neoprene with lace overlays....

    Thinking about making a bomber jacket? Really, the fabric options for this type of jacket are endless. I'd consider lighter-weight fabrics with some body, soft hand and relaxed drape, maybe a medium-weight satin. Take a look at bomber jackets in stores and online and see what fabrics work best, then go for it!

  • Halloween Contest Entry #57

    Julia H.'s Halloween Costumes

    Julia H.'s Halloween Costumes

    Julia H used white vinyl and white cotton for her costume.
    For more information on how to enter the Mood Fabrics 2011 Halloween Costume Contest and complete contest rules for a chance to win a $100 Gift Card to MoodFabrics.com please visit www.moodfabrics.com/halloween2011/ Rate your favorite costume below!
  • Halloween Contest Entry #42

    Liz G.'s Genie Costume

    Liz G.'s Genie Costume

    Liz G.'s Genie Costume was made from Blue Cotton, Red Satin, and Elastic trim.
    For more information on how to enter the Mood Fabrics 2011 Halloween Costume Contest and complete contest rules for a chance to win a $100 Gift Card to MoodFabrics.com please visit www.moodfabrics.com/halloween2011/ Rate your favorite costume below!
  • Halloween Contest Entry #31

    Brian M. Headless Painting Costume

    Brian M. Headless Painting Costume

    Brian M. Headless Painting Costume

    Brian M. Headless Painting Costume

    Brian M. made this Headless Painting costume using Velvet, Cotton, and rope.
    For more information on how to enter the Mood Fabrics 2011 Halloween Costume Contest and complete contest rules for a chance to win a $100 Gift Card to MoodFabrics.com please visit www.moodfabrics.com/halloween2011/ Rate your favorite costume below!
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