Sewing Yaya Han’s Ultimate Bodysuit project and the How to Sew an Easy Faux Fur Vest project, so if you’d like in-depth explanations for the steps we used, head over to those links to check them out! Here’s a list of all the tools and materials needed to make this design:
Halloween doesn't need to just be monsters and ghouls! If you're looking to dress up this year, but still look absolutely fabulous, you can't go wrong with a period piece. Sure, flapper dresses have been pretty popular lately, but rather than getting the generic spaghetti strap sheath you can find at any costume shop, why not sew your own more authentic-looking dress?
Fabrics & materials used:
- 1 panel Black Geometric Fringe Lace
- 1.5 yards Latte Wool Crepe
- 15" Black Invisible Zipper
- 1.5 yards 12" Black Fringe
- 1.5 yards 8" Champagne Chainette Fringe
- McCalls 2401
Despite all the thin-strapped dresses that have come to be associated with the 20's, many silhouettes were actually sleeveless v-necks. Luckily, Mood carries a nearly perfect pattern! McCall's 2401 has several different sheath dress options, including a v-neck.
I only needed to make 3 alterations: I left off the sleeves, I shortened the hem by about 4", and I left out 4 of the 6 darts (only leaving the two side bust darts).
Once the dress was made using the crepe and fringe lace, I simply stitched on a layer of black and a layer of champagne fringe 6" from the skirt hem. Voila! Flapper!
The headpiece took about 2 seconds flat. The feather brooch, which comes with a pin attached to the back, was just pinned to some pleated velvet trim. I stitched the trim ends together at the back, but they could be easily glued, pinned, or connected with snaps - no sewing necessary!
All in all, it's a fairly cute ensemble that might not even need to be kept in the closet until Halloween! Where else would you love to wear this fun dress?
an awesome tutorial for here!
- 1 1/3 Yards Ivory Acrylic Felt
- 1/2 Yard Heathered Jungle Green Felted Wool Blend
- 1/2 Yard Heathered Brown Felted Wool Blend
- 1/2 Yard Heathered Dark Earth Brown Felted Wool Blend
- Dritz Size 5/10 Sharp Needles
- 3-Pack DMC Size 6 Embroidery Floss #814 Dark Garnet
- 3-Pack DMC Size 6 Embroidery Floss #745 Popcorn
- 1 Yard 3/8" Wine Double Face French Satin Ribbon
- 1/2 Yard Elastic Cord
- Dritz Tailor's Chalk
- Hem Tape
- A Sheet of Printer Paper
- 8" Fiskars All-Purpose Scissors
You can also fold the piece of felt in half to speed up the cutting process!
After you've cut out all your pieces, put them to the side. Take the remaining amount of ivory felt you have and fold it so that the selvages are lined up together. Measure down the length of your arms from the center of your back and figure out how long you want your wings to be, (the ivory felt has a max width of 29" when folded), and then down from the base of your neck to figure out how tall you want your wings to be. Once you know what size you want your wings to be (we went with 28" for the wingspan width and 20" for the height!), measure the height of your wings down the folded side of the fabric and mark where you need it to end. Do the same for the windspan length along the adjacent edge of the fabric. Mark where it should end. Now, from the mark for your wings' height, draw a curved line to the mark you put for the wingspan's length. Make sure the shape is to your liking before moving on!
Now it's time to cut the wing bases out! This shape you just drew will be the base for your wings. Double-check that the fabric is lined up evenly before starting to cut. I first cut down the fold and then cut the curve I drew for the base. Trim anything you think you might need to to keep the shapes symmetrical.
After you cut this out, take them apart and lay them both out next to each other. Grab the feather pieces you cut out before and your hem tape. Lay out the colors of the feathers in an alternating pattern (or whatever you choose!) so you know how you want to organize your design. Next, cut out pieces of hem tape (about 2" long each) and apply the first step of the hem tape onto the backs of the feather pieces. Each feather only needs one piece of hem tape.
After you've applied the first step for the hem tape, take off the paper from the other side of the hem tape and get to work on laying out your first row of pieces (like in the picture above) along the rounded edge of the wingspan. You need to start your first row on the curve in order for the feathers to overlap like a real wing's feathers would! Remember the hem tap should be down against the wing base. Using your iron on a medium setting, press the iron down flat over where the hem tape is to melt the tape and attach the feathers to the wing base. You don't need to leave the iron there long, but make sure to let the pieces and hem tape cool before moving them again! If you move them too early, the hem tape won't adhere to the pieces.
Continuing working with these steps for each row, making sure to lay the next row over the one you finish before it. Once you've attached everything, the final product will look like this:
The wings are almost done! Now we need to attach the elastic and ribbon pieces which will help hold it onto your shoulders and wrists, respectively. Take this time to figure out where on your wings you want your elastic and ribbon straps to sit so they look both naturally fitting on your frame. For ours, we lined up the elastic with our model's shoulder blades and the ribbon at the wrists.
You may need more or less elastic for your straps, so measure around the part of your shoulder where it connects to your torso--take that measurement and add 1" to get the length you need for ONE of your elastic straps. Double this to get the amount you need total.
An important note: make sure when you sew these pieces on that they don't show through the feathers! Try to work beneath them, or add these in before ironing down your feathers.
Once you've done this, take your elastic and cut it in half so you have one piece for each arm. For each piece, overlap the raw edges by one inch, so it makes a loop. Then, using your hand needle and yellow embroidery floss, sew the elastic onto the wing just along this overlapped inch. You don't need more than that. Do the same on the other wing.
Next is the ribbon. The ribbon will be applied in a similar way but towards the other end of the wing. Measure the widest part of your hand instead of your wrist to see how much ribbon you need. You want to be able to slide your hand through the loop once it's sewn on, after all! Once you have your ribbon, cut it in half like you did the elastic. Overlap the 1/2-1" for the ribbon to make the loop and sew it down with the red embroidery floss.
The last thing needed for the wings is to sew a small part of them together at the middle. Lay the top corners of the wings over each other (where they would sit over the middle of your back, and use the yellow embroidery floss to sew a clean square where they overlap. You want this to be secure, but not too tight or it'll look pinched. It's okay if the thread shows here so long as you sew it through nicely!
And there you go! You have a pair of owl wings for your costume! Easy right? Could you use wings like these for other projects or costumes, too? What color schemes might look great for a design like this?
Halloween is coming up, and everyone you know is probably scrambling to find the best costume to celebrate! From superheroes and bad guys to custom-designed characters, bodysuits are a staple of the costuming trade, so it never hurts to at least have resources and knowledge about them on hand. Luckily for us, a new pattern from McCall’s Yaya Han line of patterns has been released, and I wanted to take the chance to make a bodysuit with Mood's new pleather fabrics! Naturally, I was satisfied with the final product! The pattern number is MP214. It includes four different designs, two with leggings and two without, and a close-up zipper either in the front or back. This was my first time using the pattern, and I feel like the design is pretty solid. It was simple to put together, and sewing it was fast and easy--no complicated stitching was needed. The skill level of this pattern is more intermediate, since you will most likely work with slippery fabrics like spandex and knit when using the pattern, but since the design is so straight-forward, it's a great way to step outside your sewing comfort zone if you've been a beginner for some time! I loved the contrasting pieces of fabric in the jumpsuit design, and the zipper was easier for me to have in the front, so I decided to go with design C!
With a Size 12 in mind, here's a list of the materials I used:- 1 yard, Black Heavy Compression Double Knit (1 5/8 yard if you go with the leggings for design D) - 1 1/8 yards, Black Stretch Pleather - One 24” Invisible Zipper in Black - Black 100m Gutermann Extra Strong Thread - Sewing Machine - Fiskars Designer Set 2-piece Cutting Set, for cutting fabric - 8" Fiskars All-Purpose Scissors, for cutting pattern - Quilting Pins, for Knit - Wonderclips, for Pleather ONLY I chose Black Heavy Compression Double Knit for my main fabric choice. I absolutely love this fabric. When it comes to bodysuits, I feel that a compression fabric is really important. Compression fabrics are usually thicker without sacrificing the stretch. This is crucial when trying to make a jumpsuit if comfort is a top priority for you, or if you’re planning to wear for a long time and/or want to be able to wear multiple times. I happen to need all three, so I did a good amount of research before finally settling on this fabric. It’s incredibly smooth to touch, and if you’re wearing just a jumpsuit for your costume (say, for example, Black Widow) the thicker fabric helps you feel more covered and protected from the weather. It’s a warm, comfortable fabric that looks nice and sleek when form-fitted, and I love how well it took stitches with my machine; since the fabric isn’t too thin, stitching it was tight and secure. Plus this fabric has Maxi-Dri, which basically means that it's sweat resistant! It helps keep you dry, which is a great benefit to have for a bodysuit outfit! The fabric I chose for the contrast was Black Stretch Pleather. I wanted a fabric that would contrast the muted sheen of my compression knit fabric while still retaining that necessary stretch. This pleather is thinner than the knit, but I went with it because it has that classic kind of sheen you see in spy movies. Not too gaudy and not too matte. It’s clearly different from the knit, too, so it outlines the shape of the contrasting pieces nicely.
I won't go into the specifics for how to make the jumpsuit, because the pattern is pretty clear, but I do want to share some tips and tricks I discovered while working with my project!For one thing, I have Wonder Clips written up on the list of materials. These should always, always be used in place of pins when working with pleather or other synthetics. Pleather is a great costume fabric, but once a hole from a pin or needle is put into it, it shows easily and it will not go away, even if you iron it (WHICH YOU SHOULD NOT DO! Because pleather is synthetic, it will melt if you iron it!!). Using Wonder Clips takes this worry off the list! They're little clips that have very strong hold and grip, so it keeps your fabric together without putting holes through it (plus they don't leave any marks! These are a necessary investment if you're looking to sew a good quality project with pleather! I know the pattern says to stretch the fabric slightly whenever you run it through your machine, but with the fabrics I used, I don't think it was necessary. The fabrics have so much stretch that I actually preferred using a tighter stitch so that it would hold together better. Stretching your fabrics as they go through can sometimes make your machine skip a stitch or two, and that's not good! So don't worry about pulling the fabric. I tried this and the stitches ended up going loose around the shoulder where I had to sew my knit and pleather together, and I had to re-sew it. So if you don't think you need to pull the fabric as you sew it (so long as the fabric stretches!!), don't worry too much about doing it. #312564, #312562), so you could use one of those instead, if you'd like! Make sure that you sew your stopping point BEFORE trimming your zipper, and use a scrap piece of compression knit and sew it around the raw edge (to keep it from scratching you) AFTER installing the zipper! I altered from the McCall's pattern was when I was stitching the collar on. The pattern calls for you to sew the collar piece with the wrong sides together and then to attach the collar to the neckline with the right sides together. I was worried about the extra seam allowance still showing and that it might look bad, so instead I sewed the collar piece right sides together, turned it inside out, and then sewed it to the neckline. After you attach the collar, you can either tuck the raw edges inside before installing your zipper (which will close it nicely) or top-stitch down the zipper after installing it to lock the raw edges in place. The last thing to mention is when you're installing your zipper, you need to make sure that the seams on the front bodice line up together. The first time I put my zipper on, I ended up mis-aligning my seams, and so the front looked silly. You obviously don't want this! Avoid this by installing the first side and then zip up the zipper. Pin your second half of your zipper by starting where the seam will line up with the other side of the bodice, and work your way out to the top and bottom of the zipper from there. That should help you avoid crooked seams!
All fabrics and materials used:
- 1.25 yards Red Dull All Over Foil Knit Pleather Substitute (The red currently says 'sold out' online, but if you call Mood's website customer service, you can still order some!)
- 1/4 yard Whisper White Pebbled Vinyl
- 1/4 yard Oxblood Red Solid Vinyl
- Metallic Gold Jacquard Paint
- Aleene's Fast Grab Tacky Glue
- 1 yard 3/4" Black Sticky Back Velcro
The two larger circles become the chest decal. The white center piece is cut from the white pebbled vinyl, while the outer circle and lightning bolt were actually cut from the red and then painted with the metallic fabric paint, which worked absolute wonders! The ear decals were created with the smaller circles and lightning bolts. Remember to cut the two bolts out mirroring each other! I took some inspiration from the CW version of The Flash and kept the inner ear decals dark red.
All of them were attached to each other with tacky glue and to the suit with sticky back velcro so they can be removed to keep the suit machine washable, however they could easily be sewn or glued on!
The mask is built on top of an old generic superhero mask I had; the fabric was simply stretched over it and glued onto the back. No mask lying around? No problem! One cut from cardboard would work just as well!
All in all, it's a quick and easy costume to DIY, plus it's comfortable, versatile, and you can wash it! What could be more perfect for a kid?
So what costumes are you making this Halloween? Tell us below!
It's my favorite time of the year - Halloween! And let's face it: all of October is Halloween. Plus, since Pokemon has recently made a comeback, naturally I needed to dress Swatch up as Bulbasaur.
Fabrics & Materials Used:
- 1/2 yard Metal/Tile Blue Double-Faced Neoprene/Scuba Fabric
- 1/2 yard True Red/Classic Green Double-Faced Neoprene/Scuba Fabric
- 1/4 yard Tango Red/Alpine Green Double-Faced Neoprene/Scuba Fabric
- 1/2 yard 3/4" Black Sticky Back Velcro
- 1 package 20 oz Fiber Filling
The bulb was easily the best part to make! I loved the contrasting black lines created by the foam, so I chose to put my seam allowance on the right side.
Each panel was sewn, wrong sides together, from the very bottom until about 2 inches from the top. Before sewing the last panel shut, I threw in a little fiber fill (not too much though, since it'll need to fit under the sewing machine one more time. The rest of the fill will go in through the top of the bulb.
Since Bulbasaur's bulb isn't completely shut up top, I kept Swatch's open as well. A small circle of neoprene lies on top of the fiber fill, so none pops out!
It attaches to the vest with some more velcro, this way the vest can be easily removed for washing, but it could also be hand sewn into place. Some neoprene scraps and a bit of elastic made his ears - how adorable! What kind of Halloween costumes are you making for your pets this year?
I happened to stop by Mood Fabrics NYC recently to pick up some supplies, and I was inundated with the buzz in every aisle as people both young and old plotted out their costumes for their respective upcoming festivities—the excitement was definitely in the air! But what was I inspired by? I wanted to wear my No Sew TuTu to one party, but wondered "what else was out there?"Even though the movie isn't out yet, in my mind I gotta admit that I kept going back to Jennifer Lawrence's wardrobe in the new Hunger Games 2 movie, Catching Fire. I mean, what's not to love? She just looks tough....the feathers, the flashes or red—I was immediately sold! I paired my edgy top with a snakeskin pair of black faux leather jeans and ankle boots, and my ensemble was complete. Tell me below what you're creating for this year's Halloween costume.
SUPPLIES:Black feather trim (in the end I used about 7 yards), 4 red feather patches, 2 red guinea feather pads, straight pins, plastic garbage bag, e6000 glue, scissors, an old tank top, a zipper, and a needle and thread. HOW-TO: I used a mannequin, but feel free to do this with the tank top lying on a flat surface like I did in my Ostrich Feather Skirt post. 1. To use a mannequin, I suggest first covering the form with a plastic garbage bag so as not to get glue on your mannequin. 2. Slip your top onto the mannequin. 3. Measure your first row of trim by wrapping it around the mannequin, and snipping it at the desired length. 4. Secure one end of the trim to the shirt with a straight pin. 5. Apply glue to the entire band of trim. 6. Wrap the trim you just applied glue to around the form about 1.5 inches from the bottom of the tank, then press it into place, and re-secure it with the straight pin. 7. Start the next row of trim up about 2 inches from the last one....and continue. 8. For the main part of the body I made complete revolutions -- using about 6 rows of trim on the bodice alone, going right up to the underarm. 9. I wound up using shorter pieces for the upper chest and top back , but as I finished the main bodice I lined the last piece up against the underarm (Note: It's a little less noticeable if you opt to use a black tank instead of a colored one like I did). 10. Apply a line of glue to the entire neckline -- meaning from shoulder blade to shoulder blade. HOW-TO CONT'D: 11. Take a piece of trim and place it on top of the glue line you created around the neckline. 12. It's now time to do the top back quarter. So, take a piece of trim the desired size and pull a few feathers out of the band on either side of the trim. 13. Glue this back piece into place, being sure to tuck the tiny tabs you've created on either side, into the tank. 14. Repeating Step #11, glue a row of feathers along the back neckline (Note: I originally only bought 6 yards of feathers, but had to use another spare yard of a different set of black feathers I already had across the top back). 15. Take 2 of your red feather pads and 1 of the red spotted guinea pads and fan them out in the pattern you'd like (Note: here I nestled the red spotted guinea one in between the 2 red ones, but ultimately didn't like it since I couldn't get it to look the same on both sides. So, I decided to place the spotted one on top of the 2 red ones). 16. Place some glue on each shoulder, and set the 3 feather pad in place. 17. Hold your "feather pad trio" into place for a few minutes, feeling free to use binder clips if needed. 18. Near the underarms you may have some empty spaces, feel free to glue some smaller pieces into these vacant spots where you may see your top. Then allow the whole thing to dry for at least 3 hours. 19. Take your scissors and cut your top up the entire back. 20. Using straight pins, hem your back edges about an inch on either side. 21. Again, using your straight pins, pin your zipper into place on either side of the back edges. 22. Hand stitch your zipper into place, and voila -- you are all set!Brandhyze Stanley is the chief voice of the award winning blog, Frugal-nomics.com; a platform designed to share with women how to live and look fabulous on a dime. A DIY girl at heart—Brandhyze has been featured on The View, The Early Show, The Today Show, InStyle Magazine, Essence Magazine, and MTVStyle. A Wilhelmina Model for over a decade, with a Business Degree from Loyola University Chicago, Brandhyze provides DIY content to the popular How-To Site, eHow; and was a Fashion & Style Writer and Video Contributor for Newsday Westchester. Brandhyze is a huge thrifter and a lover of all good deals, follow her on Twitter @MyFrugalnomics and on Facebook at Facebook.com/Frugalnomics.
Halloween is just around the corner, and it's such a fun holiday for adults to embrace their inner kid -- the dressing up, the copious amounts of candy, it all equals fun!
Having guests over to celebrate? Well...you may want to try a personal "spooky" take on the traditional holiday settings. It's quick....it's easy....and it makes for a great keepsake: Personalized Halloween Napkin Rings. Just head over to Mood like I did and grab some organza ribbon, felt, and some fabric paint...and you're ready to go!SUPPLIES: felt, silk organza ribbon, fabric paint, straight pins, scissors, and a print out of all the images you want to use (I used Google Images to find some cute ones!!!) HOW-TO: 1. Find silhouettes of pictures you want on Google Images, and print them out the size of about 1/4 of a page or less, then cut them all out. 2. Take your organza ribbon and cut a piece for each of your place settings (Note: be generous so you can have a nice size bow -- mine were each 31 inches long). 3. Using straight pins, attach each image to your felt. 4. Carefully cut out your images. 5. In the spot you'd like your ribbon to run through your felt "character," make a tiny incission (about an 1/8th inch) with your scissors. 6. Take the nozzle of your fabric paint, and carefully spell each name of your guests. (Note: I would practice first to gauge how fast paint comes out when you apply pressure to the bottle, because in the event you mess up, you don't want to have to start all over). Let dry for a few hours. 7. Slip your organza ribbon evenly through the incission you made in Step #5, and you're all done!
Brandhyze Stanley is the chief voice of the award winning blog, Frugal-nomics.com; a platform designed to share with women how to live and look fabulous on a dime. A DIY girl at heart—Brandhyze has been featured on The View, The Early Show, The Today Show, InStyle Magazine, Essence Magazine, and MTVStyle. A Wilhelmina Model for over a decade, with a Business Degree from Loyola University Chicago, Brandhyze provides DIY content to the popular How-To Site, eHow; and was a Fashion & Style Writer and Video Contributor for Newsday Westchester. Brandhyze is a huge thrifter and a lover of all good deals, follow her on Twitter @MyFrugalnomics and on Facebook at Facebook.com/Frugalnomics.
We would like to congratulate the winner of a $100 Moodfabrics.com Gift Card to our 2011 Halloween Costume Contest Tracy F and her Ghost Cookie Costume!
Tracy told us her co-worker's 4 year old son said, "the cookie was bitten into, died, and became a ghost." She made it with white broadcloth and silver glitter fabric paint.
Thank you so such for everyone who sent in an entry!
You can check out all the entrants at www.moodfabrics.com/blog/?cat=94
For more information on how to enter the Mood Fabrics 2011 Halloween Costume Contest and complete contest rules for a chance to win a $100 Gift Card to MoodFabrics.com please visit www.moodfabrics.com/halloween2011/ Rate your favorite costume below!