The Adair Cargo Pants – Free Sewing Pattern

Y2K trends are coming in strong this fall, and cargo pants have officially made a comeback. Not only did the utilitarian pants make a splash on the NYFW Celine and Bottega Veneta runways, to name just a few, but we’re now seeing them on everyone from Zendaya to Bella Hadid. Want to channel your favorite it-girl’s look this season? With our Adair Cargo Pants Free Sewing Pattern you can do just that. Want to give it your own flair? Use a contrasting fabric, lace, or mesh for the side pockets to make your Adair Cargo Pants truly one of a kind. Styled with our Trillium Jacket, there’s certainly no shortage of pockets here!

Purchase Materials Used Below:

• 2.5 yards of Mood Exclusive Carlos Pebble Stretch Cotton Sateen 
• 1 spool of 506 Sand 100m Threads Guitermann Sew All Thread
• 1 spool of 722 Sand 100m Gutermann Extra Strong Thread
• MDF331 – The Adair Cargo Pants Sewing Pattern (free download below!)

Alternative Recommended Fabrics:

• Corduroy 
• Cotton Rip-Stop

Note: Although it was omitted from this tutorial, I recommend finishing all raw edges with a serger or zigzag stitch.

How to sew the pockets:

Step 1

Sew two side pocket flaps right sides together (RST), leaving one side open.  Trim seam allowance (SA), turn right side out, and press. Fold the open ends under and press to close. Topstitch the sides and bottom. Repeat with remaining side pocket flaps and the back pocket flaps. 

Step 2

On the side pocket create two folds in the direction of the arrows, matching notches. You should now have a center pleat.  Press and sew the pleat in place.  Repeat on the other pocket. 

Step 3

Fold the top edge of the side pockets under by ½”, then press.  Fold under another ¾”, press, then sew. Fold and press the remaining sides down ½”. Repeat with the back pockets.

Step 4

On the front pockets, fold and press the top, bottom, and square side under by ½”.  Press.  Fold the diagonal edge under ¾”, press, and topstitch.

How to sew the pants:

Step 1

Sew the darts on the back pant pieces.  

Step 2

Lay the back pant pieces RSU, then place the back pockets on each back pant. Use the dots for placement. Topstitch the sides and bottom of each back pocket.

Note: If you’re adding buttons to the pockets, decide on the placement now and sew the buttonholes before proceeding. 

Step 3

Pin the back pocket flaps above the back pockets, using the dots for correct placement.  The back pockets’ bottom diagonal edges should be aimed outward. Topstitch the top edge of each flap.

Step 4

Lay the front pant pieces flat, RSU.  Place the front pockets on top of the front pant pieces, RSU. Arrange the front pockets so they are lined up with the chalk guidelines. Topstitch the long edge and bottom. Repeat.

Step 5

RST sew the front & back pant legs together at the side seams, catching the edge of the front pocket in the side seam.  Repeat on the other leg.

Step 6

Lay the pant legs flat, RSU.  Pin the side pockets onto each pant leg, using the dots for correct placement. Topstitch the sides and bottom of the pockets. 

Note: If you’re adding buttons to the pockets, decide on the placement now and sew the buttonholes before proceeding. 

Step 7

Pin the side pocket flaps above the side pockets, using the dots for correct placement. Topstitch the top of each side pocket flap to the pants.

How to sew the zipper:

Step 1

Iron on interfacing for the front fly facing.

Step 2

RST, sew the slanted end of the front fly shield shut.  Trim SA, turn it right side out, press, and use a zig zag stitch or serger to finish the long edge.

Step 3

Sew the front fly facing to the wearer’s left front pant, RST. Trim the seams, press, and fold under. Topstitch the outer edge.

Step 4

Open it back up and pin the zipper to the front fly facing, RST. Sew the zipper to the front fly facing’s free end.  Note: In this step the zipper only gets sewn to the front fly facing, not the pant. 

Step 5

Fold the front fly facing & zipper to the wrong side of the pants.  Pin and topstitch, following the guideline traced from the pattern.

Step 6

Take the front fly shield and pin the serged side to the zipper’s remaining free side.  Sew.

Step 7

On the wearer’s right front pant, fold and press the edge down.  Topstitch to attach the front fly shield to the edge. 

How to sew the rest of the pants:

Step 1

Sew the remaining length of the two front pant pieces together from the bottom of the zipper to the curve.  Trim SA and topstitch.

Step 2

Sew the back pant pieces RST from the waist to the crotch point.  Trim SA and topstitch.

Step 3

Turn pants inside out and sew the inseam of each leg.  Trim SA and topstitch.

Step 4

Double fold the hem a total of 1″. Sew.

Step 5

Iron the interfacing on the waistband pieces.

Step 6

Sew the left & right waistband pieces to the back waistband. Repeat. Trim SA and press open.

Step 7

RST, sew both waistbands together at the top.  Trim SA, fold along the top, and press.  Fold both the inner & outer waistbands under ½” at the bottom edge and press. 

Step 8

Sandwich the top edge of the pants in-between the folded edges of the waistband, lining up the side seams. Mark the waistband’s front ends at the point where they need to be sewn shut.  RST, sew the ends of the waistband. Trim SA and press.

Step 9

Sew the waistband to the pants. 

Step 10

Mark the waistband where the button and buttonhole will go, then sew.