Get ready for beach days and poolside lounging with The Aeron Swimsuit Free Sewing Pattern.
This free sewing pattern offers a wonderful opportunity to make a chic, one-piece swimsuit. Made with Tricot fabric and a PowerNet Mesh lining, this swimsuit features details such as ruching, halter straps, and a sweetheart neckline.
As the temperatures rise, so does the excitement for summer craft! Embrace the warm weather and dive into this post to learn how to make The Aeron Swimsuit Free Sewing Pattern!
Purchase Products Used Below:
- 1 yard of Santorini Plus Paprika UV Protective Stretch Recycled Swimwear Tricot
- 1 yard of Nude High Compression PowerNet Mesh
- 1 each of Dritz Cotton Swimwear Elastic – 0.25″
- 1 each of 576 Dark Copper 100m Gutermann Sew All Thread
- MDF379 – The Aeron Swimsuit Sewing Pattern (Free download below!)
Alternative Recommended Fabrics:
Watch: How to Sew The Aeron Swimsuit with Helen Castillo
Sew alongside Helen Castillo! And/or follow along with the written instructions included below.
How to Sew The Aeron Swimsuit Free Sewing Pattern:
*To ensure that the inside of your garment is as neat as the outside, finish the edges with a serger or a zigzag stitch to prevent the fabric from fraying. Change your machine needle to a jersey needle or a ballpoint needle.
Step 1
Begin by ruching the sides of the front pattern. Apply a 1/4″ running stitch in between the notches to both sides, then gather the side seams to match the front lining piece.
Step 2
Bring the self layer and the lining layer over on top of one another. Pin and sew both front layers together 1/4″ along the perimeter with right side to wrong side using an elongated zigzag stitch.
Step 3
Now for the back pieces, bring the self layer and the lining layer over on top of one another. Repeat the previous step by pinning and sewing both back layers together along the perimeter, using an elongated zigzag stitch with right side to wrong side and 1/4″ seam allowance.
Step 4
Join the front and back pieces together and pin with right sides facing each other. Sew them together along the side seams and the bottom with 1/2″ seam allowance.
Step 5
Create the interior shelf by pinning the front shelf to the back shelf and sewing at the side seams. Cut the swimwear elastic to about 90% of the shelf width to apply to the bottom edge of the shelf.
Step 6
Repeat the previous step to apply swimwear elastic to the bottom edge of the leg holes. Cut 90% of the leg hole width and sew to both the legs. Turn the fabric in 1/4″ and use the twin needle to sew the hem the bottom edge.
Step 7
Create the shoulder straps by folding the pattern pieces and sewing along the edges with a lightning stitch and 1/4″ seam allowance. Use a safety pin or a loop turner to turn the straps outward.
Step 8
Pin the ruffle to the neckline with wrong side to right side, then place the shoulder straps to each side and sew to the swimsuit to create the halter straps.
Step 9
Attach the shelf to the swimsuit, catching the raw edge of the neckline to be completely hidden within the inside of the swimsuit. Make sure the ruffle and the straps stay pointed in or down toward the leg holes. Sew along the entire circumference of the top edge, then the shelf will turn into the swimsuit exposing the straps.
Step 10
Trim the seam allowance and clip in the neckline, where all of the center front seam allowances are, to maintain the curve without any disruption.
Congratulations on completing The Aeron Swimsuit! We hope you feel proud and ready to show off your new swimsuit at the beach or the pool. There’s a unique sense of accomplishment in wearing something you’ve made yourself, sewing your own swimsuit adds a personal touch to your summer wardrobe. Now it’s time to hit the waves and make a splash with style!
Share this post with a friend (or two!), download The Aeron Swimsuit Free Sewing Pattern, and show us which fabrics and colors you choose, using the hashtags #MoodAeronPattern & #MadeWithMood.
Two things to improve finish and fit.
1. Sewing the crotch seam as directed will result in a seam inside in an area that may annoy and irritate some people. If you are sensitive to seams in the nether regions of your body, I would recommend sewing the crotch seam so that the seam is hidden between the outer and lining of the back of swimsuit. Take the two layers of the crotch and pin the outer to the outer right-sides together and then pin the lining to the lining right-sides together. If you initially pin along the seam line, you can turn it through and check that you do not have layers twisted disastrously, then pull the pinned area to expose it, switch the pins to perpendicular to sewing line and sew and finish. (If side seams bother you, a similar process can be used to enclose them into the front outer and lining before attempting the crotch.)
2. 90% of leg hole length is probably required since the elastic will “grow” a bit with the rows of stitching used. To improve fit, and this something that should be done on underwear but isn’t (I wish manufacturers would get a brain here!), select an area from front top hipbone down to crotch inseam area and sew that one to one (Sew an inch of elastic to an inch of leg opening.). What ever elastic remains, needs to be stretched evenly to fit the remaining leg opening. This little trick will cause the bum area of leg opening to cup the cheek and may help prevent that leg openings from migrating into your butt crevice. If you have ever wondered why briefs don’t stay put around your bum cheeks, it is because the manufacturers sew the elastic one to one around the entire leg. It doesn’t need to cup in the front; it needs to cup at the back.
This is so stinkin cuuuute! Has a nice Retro vibe to it. Love it! Thank you for sharing!
I just finished mine and I love it! It was my first try at swimwear and it went great, I only needed to make a few small fit adjustments. Sewing along with Helen was great and made the whole process so clear. Thank you for this awesome pattern!
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