While we didn’t get the Roaring Twenties revival we wanted, we are seeing a resurgence of some of its fashion. Drop waist silhouettes are making a comeback in a major way, and while they can be tricky to wear, they are a great option when you want to let your fabric take the spotlight. Our Allium Dress brings this silhouette into 2020 with statement sleeves and a cute shoulder detail. Try yours in a sateen like ours, in opt for a gorgeous brocade or jacquard!
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 4 yards Mood Exclusive Spectral Canopy Stretch Cotton Sateen
- MDF212 – The Allium Dress Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated. See chart below for sizing specifications. Note, this specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
To begin, sew the bust darts into the front panel of your dress following the guides on your pattern. Press the darts downward.
Attach the front and back of your dress at the shoulders and side seams. Since this dress is unlined, I recommend French seams or bias bound seams to keep the inside of your garment as clean as the outside.
Sew a small 1/4″ rolled hem along the extended portion at the top of each sleeve.
With your machine’s widest stitch, baste along the extension and then pull one thread to gather the fabric.
Fabric faces together, set each of your sleeves into the dress armscyes, sewing only below the sleeve extension.
Flip right side out and pin the extension over the shoulder. Tuck in the corners of the extension, like you see below, and stitch the remainder of the sleeve into place. Bind the seams inside your dress to keep it neat.
Create your skirt ruffle, attaching the side pieces to either side of the front using French seams. Gather the top edge of the ruffle like you did the top of the sleeve and attach it along the bottom of your dress. Here I used a regular bias-bound seam so as not to mess up the gathers.
Now it’s time to start finishing the raw edges of your dress.
At the top of your center back seam, sew a 1/4″ rolled hem about 5″ down from the neck. Sew the rest of the center back using a French seam, keeping the top 4″ or so separate from each other, like below.
Create your neck facing, sewing the back pieces to the front at the shoulder using a regular seam. Press the seam allowance open and hem the outer curve of the facing. Attach it, face to face, along the neckline. Clip the seam allowance along the curve, turn the facing towards the inside of the dress and press.
Create each of your sleeve cuffs and gather the bottom of your sleeves into each one. Hem the bottom of your dress with a 1/4″ rolled hem and press.