Now that it’s getting colder, why not go bolder with a Mood Exclusive print and a brand new Mood sewing pattern? The Annie Jacket brings some of those subtle western vibes that we’re sure to see this upcoming spring, making it the perfect transitional piece to start adding to your closet this season. Pair yours with a patchwork version of our free Ren Jeans to complete the look!
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 1-2 yards Night Sky Cotton Denim Twill with Give
- 1-2 yards Mood Exclusive L’Amour en Feu Stretch Cotton Sateen
- 2 pkgs Dritz Heavy Duty Nickel Snaps Size 24-5/8″ – 7ct
- MDF277 – The Annie Jacket Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
Note: If you are using a super stiff fabric, you can avoid using interfacing. If you choose to use a twill or a lightweight fabric, you will need to interface the collar, cuffs, and waistband.
Note: Some of the seam allowances are smaller than others, please keep that in mind when sewing so nothing gets misaligned. Seam allowances are noted on the first page of your pattern printout.
1. With the right sides together, pin your pocket opening facing to the middle front panel. Now stitch a 1/4″ along the top and press flat.
2. Make a clean finish to the facing by sewing a small hem. An alternative way would be to serge or zig-zag stitch.
3. Place the interior pocket underneath the middle front panel. The pocket will extend 1/2″ above the middle front panel. Pin and top stitch pocket into place.
4. Pin and sew your side back pieces together to center back, matching notches.
5. Now pin your side front pieces together, matching to the side back notches, and sew.
6. Next, pin your middle front piece to the side front.
7. Next, sew the center front piece to the middle front matching notches.
8. Press all of the bodice seams open and then topstitch along the seam allowance. Below is a detailed shot of the topstitching; I used the presser foot as a guide for each seam. You can change how far from the seam you want your stitching to be, it’s totally up to you.
9. Pin and stitch pocket flap around the edges, leaving the top open. Remember this seam allowance for this is 1/4″. Once sewn, trim corners, flip, press, then topstitch.
10. Now pin the front yoke to the back yoke at the shoulder seams and sew.
11. Press and topstitch the yoke at the shoulders.
12. Pin the back panel to the top of the back bodice, sew, press, and then topstitch.
13. Pin your pocket flap, over the middle front piece on the bodice. Tip: If you want to stay stitch in place, you can because in the next step you will have multiple layers. Note: There will be a 1/8in on each side to overlap the seam. So make sure you center the pocket flap.
14. Now pin the front yoke to the front pieces, matching the seams. You will be sandwiching the pocket flap in between the yoke and front bodice. Press and topstitch.
15. With right sides together, pin collar pieces and stitch around, leaving the bottom open. Trim, turn right side out, and press. Reminder there is a 3/8″ seam allowance for the collar and neckline.
Note: Since I used denim, I didn’t interface because it was so thick. If you use an alternative material or switch up the patchwork look, you will need to interface the collar.
16. With the right sides together, fold over the top to the first notch. Pin and sew 3/8″. Make a little snip on the corner to make it easier to attach the collar.
17. Fold the placket over following the markings from your pattern piece. Press, pin, and topstitch.
18. Pin your collar to the jacket matching notches and sew your collar at 3/8″. Tip: To make sure you are accurate, fold the collar and jacket in half and place a pin in each piece in the middle. Doing this will ensure your collar matches.
19. Sew your front waistbands to your back waistbands, matching notches, then press.
20. With the right sides together pin both of the bottom bands and sew around the outside, leaving the top open.
21. Flip the waistband right side out and press.
22. Pin the band matching seams and sew.
23. Fold the raw edge inward 1/2″, press, and then topstitch shut.
24. Create each of your sleeves by attaching the upper and lower panels at the back seam.
25. Pin and staystitch your pleats down.
26. Fold the side vent down and sew them, making sure all raw edges are tucked.
27. Now pin and sew the inseam of your sleeve shut.
28. With the right sides together, sew your cuffs around the outer three edges, leaving the top side open. Trim and corners and press. Note: I didn’t use interfacing here because the denim was so thick and didn’t need stabilizer.
29. With the right sides together, pin and sew one layer of the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve.
30. Fold the raw edge of the cuff to the inside and pin. Now topstitch around the whole cuff.
31. Pin the sleeve cap, to the top of the sleeve matching notches to the front and back respectively.
32. Pin your sleeves, matching side seams and notches at the armscye.
33. Trim and clip all threads.
34. Following the guide on your pattern, mark your buttons and buttonholes and sew. Alternatively, set in some heavy duty snaps like I did!