As May flowers roll into the June heat, it’s time make sure your wardrobe is blooming to match your summer plans. The Apricot Ensemble would be a peachy addition to your seasonal outfit schedule. With a lace up crop top and no uncomfortable closures, this adorable sewing pattern can be your next sleepwear set in a subtle charmeuse, or luxurious lingerie in a luxe lace. For those of you who think it’s too lovely not to flaunt, try a floral voile for the perfect festival look and let the good thymes roll!
Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 2 yards Mood Exclusive Ardhanarishvara’s Creativity Cotton Voile
- 1 yard Ravello White Mercerized Cotton Shirting
- 1 pkg Dritz Large Gold Eyelet Kit
- White Triangle Bra Cups – Size 6
- 1 pkg Dritz Lingerie Strap Slides and Rings
- 1 pkg Dritz White Plush-Back Elastic
- MDF145 – The Apricot Ensemble Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
Alternative Suggested Fabrics:
Let’s begin with the shorts, since they go together much more quickly.
Start by sewing your two front pieces together at the front rise. Since the voile I used is rather sheer, I lined this portion of the garment. If you’re following suit, sew the lining and main fabric at the same time, as if they’re one layer of fabric. Finish with French seams, like you see in the center image below.
Repeat to connect your two back pieces at the rear rise.
Along the top of your front shorts panels, add your front waistband. To do this, fold the waistband in half along the length and attach using a French seam, like you see in the lower right-hand image.
Fold the top edge of the back of your shorts down a 1/2″, toward the wrong side of the fabric, and then another full inch. Sew along the edge of the fold, creating a 1″ casing for your elastic. Cut a piece of elastic 2″ shorter than half of your waist measurement, and feed it through the casing. Pin the elastic at either end of the casing, gathering the back shorts panels, and attach the front and back of your shorts at the sides and inseam.
Hem the outer edge of your shorts ruffles and connect each of the ruffles short edges to create a circle from each piece. Pin each ruffle to the hem of each leg of your shorts, gathering it a bit more toward the outer seam. Your shorts are complete!
When starting the shirt, I decided to line the front of the garment twice – once like I did with the shorts, with a layer being sewn along with the main fabric, and then another that’s just the lining. This was just because I added bra cups to this top, so I didn’t want all of the inner workings of the shirt to be seen through the thin voile.
To start sewing, attach your center front and side front bodice pieces like you see below. The seam allowance can be clipped and pressed.
Pin your bra cups to the lining layer of your bodice, and then stitch it into place with a zig-zag stitch along the bottom. The top point will be sewn into place later when attaching your lining and main fabric.
Next, you’ll need to create your shirt straps. For each one, I used a 1″x20″ strip of voile.
Fold the strip in half along the length, fabric faces together, and stitch along the edge. Turn the strap right side out and sew one end to a bra slider. Loop the other end through a ring and then lace it through the slider as well. You now have an adjustable strap!
Cut 2″ off the end of your strap and loop it through the ring. This bit will be sewn to the back of your shirt in the next step.
Pin the longer end of your straps to the tip of your front bodice, and then small loop at the back (roughly 2″ to either side of center back).
Next, you’re ready to start attaching your lining to the main layer of the shirt. Sew it only along the top and center front, sewing your straps into place and leaving the entirety of the bottom open. Clip your seam allowances.
Sew your two shirt ruffle pieces together along one of the short edges. Place this seam at the center back of your shirt and evenly gather the ruffle along the hem of your shirt on the main fabric layer only. Stay-stitch into place.
Pin your main layer to the lining layer along the hem of your shirt, sandwiching your ruffle in between and tucked inside. Sew along the bottom, leaving 2-3″ open toward the center back to pull the garment right side out. Once your garment is turned, press around it’s entirety and slip-stitch the 2’3″ opening closed.
Lastly, insert 8 eyelets along the center front of your shirt, following the instructions on your Dritz eyelet kit. Create a tie the same way you created your straps and lace it through the front of your garment to complete!
How will your be styling your version of the Apricot Ensemble? I can’t wait to hear about your design ideas in the comments!
What a versatile pattern! I love it!
Thank you so much , can’t wait to try them out!
Mood team you are a God sent
Me gusta mucho
This seems to be a perfect spring or summer look. What would your choice of accessories be? A simple wedged sandal? A cute sunhat? Jewelry? Handbag? As an aspiring designer, as I have been for nearly 12 years, I like experimenting with different fabrics, buttons, fastenings, and accessories.
I love this pattern. I am going to make it soon, I might just cut the front of the top on the fold. I’m not a big fan of the lace-up design.
Just if I can make a suggestion, it would be very helpful if you could include a cutting layout with your patterns.
I always struggle with how to put all the pattern pieces on the fabric before cutting. It takes me almost as much time as taping the pattern together.
Anyway, thanks for the patterns, the sewing instructions and the fabric suggestions.
Crazy pattern, I just like soooo much, Thx for this… I like madly mood sewciety fashion universe!!!
Just made it!
I seem to have missed the instructions on when the front of the top got attached to the side, so I did have to muddle through that myself. Also the shorts were WAY too small, not enough stretch in the band to get over my butt to make it to the waist. Too bad! I’ll be trying it again though with some alterations, because it is pretty darn cute 🙂
Has anyone made a video tutorial for this pattern? I’m having a lot of trouble getting the shorts front and the shorts back to match up properly. Such a cute pattern..!
Omg i feel like hoarding patterns.. Thank you so much for the free pattern.. i cant wait to try them all..
So cute! Thank you for these!
Definitely make a muslin! I went ahead and cut my main fabric assuming it would be fine due to the loose nature of the garment, but there were some issues in the pattern size for the back of the shorts—way too high of a rise compared to the front piece as per pattern instructions. After some on the fly alterations, they turned out cute!
I’m so excited to use this pattern to make some cute pajamas for summer! I’ve got a dusty rose satin fabric that would adapt so well with this!
I’m currently making this and the back pattern for the shorts is really big compared to the front panel. So they don’t match up. I’m not sure what to do beyond cut a lot of material off the back. Anyone have any tips?
Hi, Amanda! The back waistband is a fold-down waistband – once it’s folded and the elastic is added, it should match up at the side seams to the front and front waistband. 🙂
Did you ever get yours to match up without cutting fabric. If I follow the directions for how much to fold 1/2” then over 1” mine are off as well.
Is there a simple way to modify the top to be cupless? As a nonbinary flat chested person I’d LOVE to make this, but hope to make it fit nicely, or start working through the alteration without *too* much fussing. Thank you!
Hi Olli! Yes, you can definitely make it without the cups, just sew the pattern as-is without adding them. Additionally, I would suggest making a muslin or toile before sewing in your fashion fabric. That way you can make sure the bodice is a comfortable fit, and pin out any unnecessary curves. 😀
looking forward to receiving the free pattern and sewing it!!
Hi, I was wondering if anyone has made this top with an underwire for extra support? I worry there will be mishaps with just the cups. Also if there are any large chested people who made this without wires, did it hold well?