

Fall in love all over again with the Aurora Dress! Exemplary of the vintage-inspired, minimalist bridal trend, this free sewing pattern features flattering princess seams, an off-the-shoulder neckline, and a full center back of silk-covered buttons. Whether you’re getting married at a grand cathedral, an ultra-modern museum, or a picturesque winery, this versatile beauty will have you feel like royalty on your wedding day!

Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 10-12 yards Whisper White Silk 4-Ply Crepe
- 50 pc Mood Exclusive Whisper White Silk Covered Button – 18L/11.5mm
- Optional: 5 yards Clear Rigilene – 8mm/0.375″
- MDF084 – The Blackthorn Coat Sewing Pattern (free download below!)

Note: I chose to serge all raw edges, and press the seam allowances toward side seams. Alternatively, you could use a French seam or pinking shears.
Assemble and tape your pattern, then cut out your pattern pieces. When cutting each dress panel, be sure the width of your fabric will suit the width of the flares of each panel. We suggest you assemble your patterns first so you’ll know how wide your fabric should be.
Taking your Center Front and Side Front panels, align each along their corresponding notches and pin. Note: These seams are very flattering and easy to adjust for the perfect fit. Consider pinching to resize if needed.


Tip: When using solid fabric, it is easy to sew a wrong side of a panel to the right side of the next panel. Try placing a pin or marking discreetly in the seam allowance to avoid this mix-up when sewing.
Press your seam allowances open, another option is to serge the raw edges of both seam allowances and press them toward the side seams. Optional: This would be an opportunity to add boning, by creating bone channels. Topstitch and insert bones in the channels along the princess seams, from the top edge of the dress to the waistline. This can help reinforce the bodice and create additional support, if needed.

Join the Center Back of your back panels at least 9” below the waist notches. This will help to avoid sewing wrong sides together for your back panels. I always pin baste the entire Center Back after I have cut my panels to avoid mixing up my pieces.

Sew your Side Back panels to meet your Center Back panels, aligned the notches and pinning the entire length of the back princess seams. (This is the seam where Back Panels and Side Back panels meet.)


Press your seams open or clean finish the raw edges, then attach front panels to back panels along the side seams.


Taking both sleeves, double-check your notches are in place before sewing the inseam. The notches represent the front and back of the sleeve’s armhole.

Finish the raw inseam edge and the hem edge of the sleeve. The top edge of the armhole of the sleeve will be clean-finished when the facing is attached. The sleeve must be attached to the dress before the facing is attached as it is one piece for that entire top edge.
Pin sleeve to armscye, matching seam lines. Stitch a regular seam here. To finish, serge or pink the edge.

Insert your invisible zipper to the center back of the dress.

Taking your Facing pieces, attach the Front Facing to either Sleeve Facing, and attach those to the Back Facing. This facing gives the neckline a clean finish without the bulk of an added lining.
Clean the ‘hem’ edge of the facing with a serger or a zigzag stitch. This should not be turned up as it can add bulkiness to that area of the dress and may show through the right side of the garment


Pin facing to the top of the dress. Press seam allowance back and understitch the facing. Once finished, finish the ‘hem’ edge of the facing with a serger or a zigzag stitch. This should not be turned up, as it can add bulkiness to that area of the dress and may show through the right side of the garment. Next, tack the facing to the seams of the dress.


Starting from the top and working your way down, sew your buttons onto one side of the center back seam. From the top button, mark ¾’’ distance between the rest of the buttons. Continue to work your way down the dress. You can either sew the buttons completely down the back or stop just above the train like we did.
Lastly, hand sew, blind stitch, or do a rolled hem. You’re ready to walk down the aisle!
13 comments
I was so excited when I seen this pattern at first I didn’t see the boning on the list of things needed but I new it had to be there somewhere this was a Helen Castillo gown there had to be five or more yards of it lol I can’t wait to make this dress thank you for adding it
So elegant! Thank you for sharing.
This reminds me of Bella’s wedding dress from Twilight!! I’ve always wanted that dress!!
Just love that dress
This is a beautiful dress and I am adding it to my list to make. For when my special someone gets home and we can finally walk down the isle.
I love this pattern but I don’t need a floor length dress right now, so I have a question. How much fabric do you think I would need if I cropped it at the waste?
Hi Jenn! If you’re cropping it at the waist, I would recommend 2-2.5 yards to be safe. 😀
Could you change the sleeve to be just a little cap sleeve?
Yes I think that would look lovely, Bianca! 🙂
To anyone making this dress ; remember to walk your seams and adjust your notches
Hello! Does anyone perhaps know how much fabric the skirt needs from around waist down? I am planning to attach the skirt to a bustier pattern and I’m not sure if I have enough fabric haha
Hi! I have a plotter that can print up to 36″ wide paper.
Could you provide an original PDF for printing at these dimensions? Otherwise, I’ll have to put all pages into Illustrator and place them- which I can totally do…but it’s 104 letter pages! haha
Cheers!
Hi Enrico! Unfortunately we currently only provide US Letter & A4 dimensions. 🙁