Purchase Materials Used Below:
- 2-3 yards Stratton Khaki Solid Organic Cotton Twill
- 2 Silver Metal Buckle – 1.25″
- 1 Mood Exclusive Italian Off-White and Silver T5 Closed End Metal Zipper – 9″
- 1 Mood Exclusive Italian Small Silver Flat Trapezium Metal Zipper Pull
- ½ yd of Lightweight Cotton for Pocketing
- 1/2 yard Fusible Interfacing
- MDF251 – The Basquiat Trousers Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
1. Tape your pattern pieces together and cut them out of the paper.
2. Fold your fabric in half so it’s selvage to selvage.
3. Place your pattern pieces following the grain of the fabric, cut them out according to directions.
4. Get your interfacing, lay it out the same way you did your main fabric. Cut those pieces out.
5. Mark your darts, pleats, notches, and back pockets. Sew darts and pleats into place and press.
6. Gather your 3 front pocket pieces, place and stitch them down, like below. (I folded the edge of both pocket facings, which is optional.)
7. Sew your two front pieces together at the crotch. Next, set in your zipper. If you’re unfamiliar with a zip fly, check out this tutorial!
8. Now attach the pockets to both front sides of the pants.
9. Sew the center back seam on the back pant pattern.
10. Join pant front and pant backs together, sewing the sides.
11. Sew the inseam, matching center front and center back seams.
12. Fold the buckle pieces in half along the length, sew along one short edge and the long edge, and flip inside out. Then thread the loop through the buckle on the fold line and sew.
13. Get the waistband pieces. Pin your buckle between each side seam, sew, and press.
14. Take both waistband layers (the self and facing) and place them right sides together. Starting either side, pin around the waistband, leaving the bottom edge open. When sewing around the tabs, sew at 5/8″ if using the same buckles I did, then go back to 1/2″. This will allow the tabs to be just a fraction of an inch smaller and to fit comfortably through the buckle slide. Trim the seam allowance around the tabs on both sides of the waistband. Turn right side out, press.
15. Now, attach the outer layer of the waistband to the pants matching side seams and center back. Once sewn fold over and press. (A little tip: fold the center back waistband in half, put a pin in. That will mark your center back.)
17. Fold up the bottom waistband and slip-stitch it shut.
18. Sew buttonhole for the lower waistband tab to fit through, following the guide on your pattern piece. (Before sewing on your main garment, test out your buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.)
19. Lastly the hem. Fold 1/2″ up and press, then fold another 1″. Pin and slip-stitch to finish!