Oh, my gourd, it’s officially fall! If you are anything like me, you need an amazing new coat to add to your fall wardrobe. From runway shows to street fashion, oversized coats are one of the go-to outerwear trends we’re seeing this season and the best part is that it’s universal. Mood’s newest free sewing pattern, the Bellis Coat, is the unisex winter wear that you need this year. Dress it up or down easily and stay cozy at the same time!
1. Tape and cut out your pattern, mark all the notches.
2. Start sewing the center back down to the kick pleat, leave the kick pleat open.
3. Press seam open and topstitch on both sides using a 4-4.5 stitch. Repeat with lining.
4. Attach your front panels to the back at the shoulder and side seams. Press seams toward back and topstitch.
5. Attach the front facing to the side front lining of your coat and then attach them to your back lining similarly to step 4.
6. Sew the upper and lower sleeve panels together at the back seam and topstitch.
7. Sew each of your sleeve inseams. If desired, topstitch the seam allowance down by starting at the armscye edge and sewing 2/3 of the way down the sleeve, flipping, and sewing the last third upward from the hem edge.
8. Set sleeves into each armscye, matching notches together and the inseam to side seams.
9. Sew collar pieces together, trim, flip, and press.
10. Pin collar to top of the jacket self layer, lining up the center back.
11. Get your pockets and fold the top edge down 1’’ then topstitch. Fold the remaining raw edges inward 1/2″ and pin them to the front of the jacket where the markings are. Now pin and sew pockets into place.
12. Hem the sides of the kick pleat about 3/8″ and topstitch. Cut a slash at the top right corner of the kick pleat (first picture), then fold the right side of the pleat in 2″ and hand tack that down with a whip stitch.
13. Now pin and topstitch the kick pleat through all three layers of the fabric.
14. Pin the lining to the right side of the jacket, matching the center back seam, shoulder seam, and side seams. Sew around the garment at the center front, lapels, and neckline, leaving the bottom open.
15. Trim edges of the lapels, flip right side out, and press.
16. Fold your hem up 1″ and blind hem stitch.
17. For the lining, fold up 1 ½” and machine sew. Place that directly above the other hem and hand stitch, or you can opt to leave the lining loose from the coat at the hem.
18. Hand tack the lining on both sides in the middle of the kick pleat.
19. Fold the belt in half face-to-face, pin, and sew along long edge. Flip right side out. Topstitch or hand stitch the ends closed, tucking in the raw edges.
20. If desired, you can add belt loops on the sides or you can stitch the belt in place at the center back seam and keep the belt attached.